johnfznj Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 Evotech Performance Radiator Guard for the FZ-07 came in today Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmwpowere36m3 Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 Let's consider the science behind this. There are two main types of springs - progressive or linear. Linear springs are insensitive to length and will provide the same resistance no matter what. Progressive springs with their softer tightly wound end obviously get stiffer as the spring becomes further compressed. I think we're agreed up to this point. When you cut the progressive spring on the soft end, it does NOT make either the soft end or the stiff and any stiffer or softer. All you're doing is altering the point at which the spring rate transitions from the soft to stiff setting - it will transition sooner in the fork's stroke. You absolutely will bottom out sooner, in an amount equal to the length of spring you removed. Assuming you've remade a new spacer that is equal in added length over stock, to the reduction in height of the newly cut spring, your sag should be pretty much the same. You installed adjustable preload caps which, when tightening, uses up more of the softer portion of the spring - again, causing the bike to use the stiffer end sooner. Point is, the spring didn't become stiffer, just shorter and quicker to transition. By reducing the # of active coils, you increase the spring rate… if all over variables are held constant. The only issue is coil bind if you cut too many. Link Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chadfi Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 This is what i did to my FZ today......bracket nut rattled off somehow not sure what exactly did it but i heard and felt it when it was bouncing and drooping and got formally introduced to the rear tire and the cap got ripped off and my brakes suddenly felt a little weird. so now i have spongey rear brakes, i was planning on removing the caliper to have it painted but didnt want to worry about the hassle of new fluid and bleeding the air, well shit, looks like i might as well, i had a ride planned on friday...out to seattle and around the king county area. looks like im going less sporty and more sportster i feel like such a damn idiot, wouldnt have happened either if i had put the rear fender piece back on it wouldve covered the tire... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobMoore Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 Ordered some goodies for it, and moved the brake and clutch perches inboard about an inch to gain some clearance when I ride between cars so my mirrors are less likely to flap someone else's mirror. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dizzid1320 Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 Let's consider the science behind this. There are two main types of springs - progressive or linear. Linear springs are insensitive to length and will provide the same resistance no matter what. Progressive springs with their softer tightly wound end obviously get stiffer as the spring becomes further compressed. I think we're agreed up to this point. When you cut the progressive spring on the soft end, it does NOT make either the soft end or the stiff and any stiffer or softer. All you're doing is altering the point at which the spring rate transitions from the soft to stiff setting - it will transition sooner in the fork's stroke. You absolutely will bottom out sooner, in an amount equal to the length of spring you removed. Assuming you've remade a new spacer that is equal in added length over stock, to the reduction in height of the newly cut spring, your sag should be pretty much the same. You installed adjustable preload caps which, when tightening, uses up more of the softer portion of the spring - again, causing the bike to use the stiffer end sooner. Point is, the spring didn't become stiffer, just shorter and quicker to transition. By reducing the # of active coils, you increase the spring rate… if all over variables are held constant. The only issue is coil bind if you cut too many. Link yes, for active coils, which is based on a springs free length. When you setup your bike to reach a specific sag length - that's taking up active coils and turning them into seated coils. So, in this case there were 5 soft coils removed. Take the free length of the 5 coils then subtract the compressed length of those coils. I'm sure you'll find that the amount of sag from just the bike's weight alone, before even adding rider, already take up substantially more length. That would mean those 5 coils are seated from just the bike's weight alone, not active coils. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cndnmax Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 By reducing the # of active coils, you increase the spring rate… if all over variables are held constant. The only issue is coil bind if you cut too many. Link I can see how it would feel stiffer since there's a shorter compression length, leach coil compresses the same amount under load(kinda) so less coils means that your forks compress less with the lame load. The reality is that the material and diameter didn't change so the spring itself isn't stiffer. In the end you'll bottom out much sooner with cut coils vs stock but at least the front end won't dive as much... I wouldn't do it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmwpowere36m3 Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 By reducing the # of active coils, you increase the spring rate… if all over variables are held constant. The only issue is coil bind if you cut too many. Link yes, for active coils, which is based on a springs free length. When you setup your bike to reach a specific sag length - that's taking up active coils and turning them into seated coils. So, in this case there were 5 soft coils removed. Take the free length of the 5 coils then subtract the compressed length of those coils. I'm sure you'll find that the amount of sag from just the bike's weight alone, before even adding rider, already take up substantially more length. That would mean those 5 coils are seated from just the bike's weight alone, not active coils. I can't comment on whether the FZ's springs are progressive or linear... but active coils are counted with the spring uncompressed. Usually there are few dead coils on a spring in its free-state and thus typically when coils are cut off a spring it results in an increase in spring rate. This is all speculative, but I'm pretty sure he increased the spring rate if he cut more than a couple coils off... maybe not a significant increase, but one none-the-less. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmwpowere36m3 Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 By reducing the # of active coils, you increase the spring rate… if all over variables are held constant. The only issue is coil bind if you cut too many. Link I can see how it would feel stiffer since there's a shorter compression length, leach coil compresses the same amount under load(kinda) so less coils means that your forks compress less with the lame load. The reality is that the material and diameter didn't change so the spring itself isn't stiffer. In the end you'll bottom out much sooner with cut coils vs stock but at least the front end won't dive as much... I wouldn't do it. If a spring compresses less with the same load, then isn't it stiffer? And if he installed a longer spacer, then he'd retain the same stroke/travel. However coil bind "could" be an issue... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YZEtc Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 A spring is a long piece of steel wire wrapped around an axis. You can have a 3-foot length of steel wire that's straight, or a 3-foot length of steel wire wrapped around an axis. If you grab both ends of the 3-foot straight wire and bend it, it requires a certain amount of force to bend it a certain amount. If you cut that 3-foot wire to 2 feet in length and bend that the same amount, it will then require more force to do so. When the coiled spring wire is compressed, the steel wire is being bent, too, with the force being applied down the axis. Cutting the coils with have the same effect as cutting the straight wire shorter. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 it's sorta what the NASCAR guys are doing when they add or subtract those hunks of rubber for the springs. Tie 2 coils together by jamming a block between them , they sorta become one and make the spring stiffer. Remove the rubber and the spring softens 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cndnmax Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 I can see how it would feel stiffer since there's a shorter compression length, leach coil compresses the same amount under load(kinda) so less coils means that your forks compress less with the lame load. The reality is that the material and diameter didn't change so the spring itself isn't stiffer. In the end you'll bottom out much sooner with cut coils vs stock but at least the front end won't dive as much... I wouldn't do it. If a spring compresses less with the same load, then isn't it stiffer? And if he installed a longer spacer, then he'd retain the same stroke/travel. However coil bind "could" be an issue... It's not stiffer since it will still fully compress under the same load no matter how long the spring is - you just cut your load/travel ratio. If one coil compresses 1cm under 15lbs then 5 coils would compress a total of 5cm under the same load. So yes the bike will move less under the same load but you don't change the max load at all, which is what I consider stiffness. I would pick a "stronger" spring with the same amount of travel over cutting a spring any day. Spacers just really set the ride height and sag Anyways I think we beat this one up enough haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmwpowere36m3 Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 If a spring compresses less with the same load, then isn't it stiffer? And if he installed a longer spacer, then he'd retain the same stroke/travel. However coil bind "could" be an issue... It's not stiffer since it will still fully compress under the same load no matter how long the spring is - you just cut your load/travel ratio. If one coil compresses 1cm under 15lbs then 5 coils would compress a total of 5cm under the same load. So yes the bike will move less under the same load but you don't change the max load at all, which is what I consider stiffness. I would pick a "stronger" spring with the same amount of travel over cutting a spring any day. Spacers just really set the ride height and sag Anyways I think we beat this one up enough haha The argument was whether the spring would be stiffer.... i.e., higher in spring rate. Thus you are simply wrong, sorry. Inch for inch it'll take more force to compress the "shorter" spring. Like YZEtc mentioned, actually stole my idea, think of a spring like a long lever/rod/wire (stretch the spring out). Which will be easier to bend/twist, the shorter or longer one? Now as far as whether the spring will bind due to less coils is a separate argument. However removing 1" or so of the stock springs I highly doubt it. That said, I'm not promoting cutting springs... but it does in fact "work". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fooschnickens Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 Got my LED front turn signals in. Gonna try to install them tonight if I can get out of work on time... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member djdiddles Posted July 15, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted July 15, 2015 just got an alert on my phone that my Euro parts are finally here in the states. After a month of them just sitting in a hub in Germany, they are finally in Texas and I should have them tomorrow! I'm super amped to show everybody here what I've got. I believe I'll be the only one stateside with these... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Goose1072 Posted July 15, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted July 15, 2015 Got my LED front turn signals in. Gonna try to install them tonight if I can get out of work on time...I hope you got the turn signal adapter plates, makes it look so much cleaner. Adapters Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cndnmax Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 Got my LED front turn signals in. Gonna try to install them tonight if I can get out of work on time...I hope you got the turn signal adapter plates, makes it look so much cleaner. Adapters You need two per signal right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Goose1072 Posted July 15, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted July 15, 2015 Yes one on the inside and one on the outside, total of 4 I also got a set for the rear since I went with the Yosh tail tidy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirusdark Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 Got my LED front turn signals in. Gonna try to install them tonight if I can get out of work on time...I just installed my fronts yesterday. Used adapter plates, looks classy as hell and the LEDs actually do a pretty good job being visible during the day. Couple quick notes for you: I didn't use the resistors they came with and the blink rate is faster, not hyper-blink but noticeably faster. I'm ok with it, as to me its more annoying having a faster blink rate and annoying=visible/noticeable. Though I might put them on the rear because I'm thinking if both sets are running without the resistors it would be a hyper blink with the lower resistance across the whole circuit... Thoughts? 2nd. The BLUE wire is the constant on for the daytime running lights (not used for the LED's) and the BLACK is the ground. Whatever other color, I think its a green of some sort, is what you connect the red wire from the blinker to as its switched. 3rd. When installing make sure you have everything strung on the wires as needed to bolt them on BEFORE soldering the connector as the connector will not fit through the nut. You'll see if to you do a mock up what I'm talking about. I'd recommend (if your half confident in your soldering abilities) taking off the entire headlight assembly and get the indicators all screwed on tight on a work bench, then do the solder and wire work. There's plenty of space to put extra wiring in the nooks and crannys so you can leave some extra slack to work with. Hope that helps! PS: using these blinkers - http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/oxford-eyeshot-led-turn-signal-indicators-columbia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fooschnickens Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 Got my LED front turn signals in. Gonna try to install them tonight if I can get out of work on time...I hope you got the turn signal adapter plates, makes it look so much cleaner. Adapters Yup, I had those long before I even bought the signals haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member djdiddles Posted July 16, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted July 16, 2015 OHHHHHHHHHH man! I just got my parts in from Europe *after a month and half wait* I'll give you a little tease... [attachment id=674" thumbnail="1][attachment id=676" thumbnail="1] 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squintyeyes Posted July 16, 2015 Share Posted July 16, 2015 Got my LED front turn signals in. Gonna try to install them tonight if I can get out of work on time...I just installed my fronts yesterday. Used adapter plates, looks classy as hell and the LEDs actually do a pretty good job being visible during the day. Couple quick notes for you: I didn't use the resistors they came with and the blink rate is faster, not hyper-blink but noticeably faster. I'm ok with it, as to me its more annoying having a faster blink rate and annoying=visible/noticeable. Though I might put them on the rear because I'm thinking if both sets are running without the resistors it would be a hyper blink with the lower resistance across the whole circuit... Thoughts? 2nd. The BLUE wire is the constant on for the daytime running lights (not used for the LED's) and the BLACK is the ground. Whatever other color, I think its a green of some sort, is what you connect the red wire from the blinker to as its switched. 3rd. When installing make sure you have everything strung on the wires as needed to bolt them on BEFORE soldering the connector as the connector will not fit through the nut. You'll see if to you do a mock up what I'm talking about. I'd recommend (if your half confident in your soldering abilities) taking off the entire headlight assembly and get the indicators all screwed on tight on a work bench, then do the solder and wire work. There's plenty of space to put extra wiring in the nooks and crannys so you can leave some extra slack to work with. Hope that helps! PS: using these blinkers - http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/oxford-eyeshot-led-turn-signal-indicators-columbia Yessssss #3 Is very important. I was so pissed when i had to cut my soldered wires because i couldn't run them thru the back hole with the adapters attached. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member djdiddles Posted July 17, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted July 17, 2015 and all the parts are on except the cage. I have to get the two engine bolts that I took out for the frame sliders and put the back in before I put the cage on. Once I get it on, I'll take full photos. [attachment id=679" thumbnail="1][attachment id=680" thumbnail="1][attachment id=681" thumbnail="1][attachment id=682" thumbnail="1] 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Huliogan Posted July 17, 2015 Share Posted July 17, 2015 I did two things today. I changed my grips, and I added DRL/Turn Signals to my air scoops. http://i.imgur.com/uyqDQMA.jpg http://i.imgur.com/NJmLt22.jpg http://i.imgur.com/Zp3K2kc.jpg Thanks to @Goose1072 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemer Posted July 17, 2015 Share Posted July 17, 2015 I changed over to full synthetic, Motul 10W40. $35 a gal. at my Yamaha dealership. Beemer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Papa L Posted July 17, 2015 Share Posted July 17, 2015 I rode it into work today. 7 miles shy of 200. At this rate I'll never make it to my first service. But on the bright side, my sister gave birth this morning. That alone makes my day! 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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