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What did you do to your Yamaha FZ-07 today?


Cruizin

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Work
Canceled the trip to Kirkland

 

Yaaa Work

Edited by r1limited

“Laws that forbid the carrying of arms disarm only those who are neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes.” --Thomas Jefferson quoting Cesare Beccaria

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28 minutes ago, jeffkisthename said:

@Beemer not sure. Ride was cramped and uncomfortable after riding the FZ1 for 22k miles.  The FZ-07 is a treat still though, because it’s so damn nimble and easy to handle.

22k miles in one day?!! Wow, that's one bad-ass rump you got there!

Beemer

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22 hours ago, phanomenal07 said:

Took almost all the slack out this morning. Haven’t got a chance to ride but been bothering me all daythinking what if I messed something up. 

Take your wrench with you and go ride, add a little slack if you don't like what you have. Does the throttle snap back to idle? Twist the throttle in the opposite direction when closed and you'll see the slack in the forward cable increase, is there still slack when you release the throttle? Still a little slack when turning bars lock to lock? If so, you didn't mess up.

 

21 hours ago, Spanglo said:

Yes, those twisties are glorious.

 

https://youtu.be/_WCK_ArCLQ0

 

As far as mods go, I recently did the throttle tube, but I used the stock tube so I didn't have take off the grip or buy anything. I simply cut strips of duct tape and built up tube until I got the desired turn. Ended up with throw shorter than the R6.

I think the duct tape will slowly compress and may squish out or displace enough to the side to cause issues...worse case scenario a stuck throttle or throttle that won't readily open or close without drag. Just my opinion ok? but for your safety, I feel this isn't a good solution. I did similar to you but instead of tape, I bonded on a semi circular piece of PVC coupling that had a final diameter of 41.5mm ( pretty quick) and a width a few thousandths of an inch wider than the stock drum width...this took up some of the longitudinal slop in the throttle. I've since gone back and filed a groove in the first part of the Pvc to slow down the initial throttle hit to eliminate a little unintentional jerkiness at part throttle and when hitting bumps. Hope this gives you something to think about, if you don't think this could be an issue than carry on, no problem.

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5 minutes ago, markstertt said:

Take your wrench with you and go ride, add a little slack if you don't like what you have. Does the throttle snap back to idle? Twist the throttle in the opposite direction when closed and you'll see the slack in the forward cable increase, is there still slack when you release the throttle? Still a little slack when turning bars lock to lock? If so, you didn't mess up.

 

Rode it today with all the changes and wow does not having much slack feel good. It was a pleasant surprise. And the r6 throttle was great caught me off guard how easy it was to get to wot. 

 

Only question I have is I just notice my idle seems to be above normal. I know this isn’t do to the throttle because I even switched back to the old one to check. Could it be because of the exhaust and ecu reflash?  

Or is this just normal when it’s cold? 

In the picture is what my idle is at right now. I remember when I first bought it there was one less bar at idle. 

 

E3B49A0D-6569-4E0D-ABBB-F3F49915A7C4.jpeg

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32 minutes ago, phanomenal07 said:

Rode it today with all the changes and wow does not having much slack feel good. It was a pleasant surprise. And the r6 throttle was great caught me off guard how easy it was to get to wot. 

 

Only question I have is I just notice my idle seems to be above normal. I know this isn’t do to the throttle because I even switched back to the old one to check. Could it be because of the exhaust and ecu reflash?  

Or is this just normal when it’s cold? 

In the picture is what my idle is at right now. I remember when I first bought it there was one less bar at idle. 

 

E3B49A0D-6569-4E0D-ABBB-F3F49915A7C4.jpeg

 

Hmmm, not sure about your idle speed but if the throttle plates are snapping closed then it's your exhaust and especially your new ecu flash I'd bet. 

 

And yes, having no slop in the throttle is like going from a heavy trigger pull to a light, crisp release...like a whole new weapon.  A quick throttle with zero slop really makes this bike more fun to ride, shift etc. such a small thing huh? I also took out both, the end to end play in the throttle and the throttle tube to bar clearance, the latter by making a new hat section delrin washer to fit between a Kaoko (sp) throttle lock and the outboard end of the throttle grip...the added dimension of the washer fits in between the throttle tube I.D. and the handle bar removing the radial clearance. Not a big deal but once done it's so nice, the only real detectable play in my throttle grip is the slack in the cable now...overkill? sure but like I said...so nice.

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Yep, with throttles closed properly, it's likely the ECU - something that was requested early on when these bikes were stalling a bunch just off idle, was to bump the idle speed 50 revs. Whoever did the refresh might just be doing this routinely. 

 

Only other things that will raise the idle is an air leak in the intake manifold/ IAC that's not working properly or the throttle position sensor is no longer zeroed properly. 

 

Fire off an email to whoever did the refresh and ask if they bump the idle up.  

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35 minutes ago, rick said:

Yep, with throttles closed properly, it's likely the ECU - something that was requested early on when these bikes were stalling a bunch just off idle, was to bump the idle speed 50 revs. Whoever did the refresh might just be doing this routinely. 

 

Only other things that will raise the idle is an air leak in the intake manifold/ IAC that's not working properly or the throttle position sensor is no longer zeroed properly. 

 

Fire off an email to whoever did the refresh and ask if they bump the idle up.  

2wheeldynoworks did the reflash

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9 hours ago, markstertt said:

I think the duct tape will slowly compress and may squish out or displace enough to the side to cause issues...worse case scenario a stuck throttle or throttle that won't readily open or close without drag. Just my opinion ok? but for your safety, I feel this isn't a good solution. I did similar to you but instead of tape, I bonded on a semi circular piece of PVC coupling that had a final diameter of 41.5mm ( pretty quick) and a width a few thousandths of an inch wider than the stock drum width...this took up some of the longitudinal slop in the throttle. I've since gone back and filed a groove in the first part of the Pvc to slow down the initial throttle hit to eliminate a little unintentional jerkiness at part throttle and when hitting bumps. Hope this gives you something to think about, if you don't think this could be an issue than carry on, no problem.

Thanks, I appreciate the input.  I have similar concerns about the tape holding up over time.  So far so good though.  Tomorrow I'll inspect it for wear... has about 600 miles on it. 

 

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I pulled the plastics while I'm waiting for the ecu to come back today,raised the tank, pulled the snorkel, checked the filter (its bad). I then put the filter back in, put the cover on without the snorkel. turned the ignition on and got,   Err

                     E//////F

                                 HI

 

On my Display, anyone know what this is?

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On 2/10/2018 at 2:19 PM, phanomenal07 said:

Rode it today with all the changes and wow does not having much slack feel good. It was a pleasant surprise. And the r6 throttle was great caught me off guard how easy it was to get to wot. 

 

Only question I have is I just notice my idle seems to be above normal. I know this isn’t do to the throttle because I even switched back to the old one to check. Could it be because of the exhaust and ecu reflash?  

Or is this just normal when it’s cold? 

In the picture is what my idle is at right now. I remember when I first bought it there was one less bar at idle. 

 

E3B49A0D-6569-4E0D-ABBB-F3F49915A7C4.jpeg

Did you possibly synch the throttle bodies recently? When you buy a new bike and the engine first wears in you have to synch the throttle bodies. Part of the initial 600 mile service. Out of sync has two typical symptoms : rough idle/ stalling and slow idle. If you recently synced them, you may have gotten used to the slow idle of before, so it just seems faster now. 1200 rpm is where my bike with a stock ecu idles, now and when new. It got down to 1000 rpm , and rough, before I did the initial synch. 

 

On a cold start (below 30°f) it'll idle around 13-1400 for a bit before setting down. 

 

 

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1 hour ago, fzar said:

I pulled the plastics while I'm waiting for the ecu to come back today,raised the tank, pulled the snorkel, checked the filter (its bad). I then put the filter back in, put the cover on without the snorkel. turned the ignition on and got,   Err

                     E//////F

                                 HI

 

On my Display, anyone know what this is?

Did you unplug any electrical connectors while you were in there? Everything back together as it should be? Any chance you accidentally pinched any wires when sitting the tank back down? 

 

Is the "E//////F" icons not just your fuel level gauge? Any chance you can get a picture of the screen now?

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No i didn't disconnect anything electrical while raising the tank, and  I checked the connections on everything including hose's before I sat it back down. The only thing disconnected is the ecu. I'll wait for the postman to get here install the ecu and turn it on and see what happens. For the record I didn't check the display after taking the ecu out or any other time before I did this ,so it may well be just the ecu.

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Cleaned wheels and chain, adjusted chain tension, and lubed her up..  Went for a ride to test how everything felt and promptly ran into a flash rain storm... 😫.  Put her away and gave her a quick dry down...

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8 hours ago, fzar said:

Here ya go.@shinyribs

11C97F11-2FF1-4D08-B878-8DF9F4F76797.jpeg

You have a friendly bike! Mine doesn't greet me with a "HI" when I turn it on. :D  Glad you got it sorted. 

  • Haha 1
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13 hours ago, shinyribs said:

You have a friendly bike! Mine doesn't greet me with a "HI" when I turn it on. :D  Glad you got it sorted. 

Like an awkward moment, bumping into your ex, ERRR, HI !!

  • Haha 5
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21 hours ago, Zephyr said:

Cleaned wheels and chain, adjusted chain tension, and lubed her up..  Went for a ride to test how everything felt and promptly ran into a flash rain storm... 😫.  Put her away and gave her a quick dry down...

Lube again. Lube, test ride,then clean the rear wheel if needs be. what lube are you using?

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Cleaned and lubed the chain with Scottoil. Messy but satisfying. Ready for the road when a warmer day arrives (no immediate prospect of that).

Just do it! 

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21 hours ago, fzar said:

Lube again. Lube, test ride,then clean the rear wheel if needs be. what lube are you using?

I use Maxima Chain Wax. It's the only chain wax I can get here. 

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I gave it a good walloping, searching for all the new mastery electronic work that was performed by @2wheeldynoworks flash for my totally stock setup, so far it's night and day, best money I've spent in a while. I'll be posting a review when I have more time, if your on the fence about this Flash get off the fence and take the price reduction tax time sale they have @2wheeldynoworks over at the vendors area, you won't regret it. Happy customer.

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I saw a member on an FZ09 forum post about putting a bottle holder on their bike to carry fuel/water/oil. I thought it looked cool, so I decided to try and build something similar for my fz07.

 

FZ09 post I saw: http://www.fz09.org/forum/6-fz-09-general-discussion/10057-primus-fuel-bottle-extended-range-sanity-7.html

 

I bought a dryspec bottle mount from revzilla and an MSR bottle from amazon (30 oz size).

 

I bought slotted angle iron, similar to this one https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-1-2-in-x-12-in-Zinc-Plated-Slotted-Angle-800097/204604757

 

Using a hacksaw I cut the angle iron to the proper length, and shape, and then coated it with like 4-5 coats of plasti dip.

 

I had to enlarge the holes a little bit for the larger bolts, as I took off the left side rear foot peg to mount the rig.

 

Came out pretty well, I think I have to black out the screws too as they are pretty shiny, all the nuts / bolts are stainless.

 

I've heard mixed reviews about storing gas in an msr bottle due to ethanol messing with the metal, so maybe I'll only fill it before longer trips. I like the red accent on the white bike though.

 

Pictures in gallery: https://imgur.com/a/iY5RV

 

image3.jpg

image1-(1).jpg

Edited by evoxv
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evoxv

 

I'm assuming you don't have a gas station nearby that has ethanol free gas??? I'm wondering if after you've used the bottle with regular gas if any of the residue from that gas is going to eat some of the metal between uses and end up in your tank > engine. Would some rubbing alcohol be safe to rinse it with after using?

Beemer

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