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What did you do to your Yamaha FZ-07 today?


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cheetahman023

Installed TST fender eliminator, MECH-GTR turn signal, flasher relay, and license plate light.  I replaced stock bar ends with rhinomoto bar ends, and replaced stock mirrors with  CRG Arrow bar end mirrors.

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Not much, took her out for a quick spin, installed the stock seats and rack and went on to try and find a top box for the rack.

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Realized it's been 17k miles since I changed the oil in my shock, so gave that a service today. The stuff that came out said I waited too long. 

 

IMG_20210703_222213976.thumb.jpg.a5be141e7d4671c28a36ea3fc8bf7ed9.jpg

 

 

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10 hours ago, shinyribs said:

Realized it's been 17k miles since I changed the oil in my shock, so gave that a service today. The stuff that came out said I waited too long. 

 

IMG_20210703_222213976.thumb.jpg.a5be141e7d4671c28a36ea3fc8bf7ed9.jpg

 

 

How hard it that to do? I tried looking it up but it usually shows forks even though I but shock. LOL

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1 hour ago, Devilman said:

How hard it that to do? I tried looking it up but it usually shows forks even though I but shock. LOL

It's really not too bad. There's some steps where you need to be careful to prevent damaging expensive parts, but it's nothing to fear. Just in case you don't already know, the stock shocks aren't serviceable. They're sealed units that you can't really crack open at home. 

Every shock can have slight differences, but this video covers 95% of everything you can expect. 

For just a service, oil change and refill, you don't have to remove the nut that holds the valving and seal head on the shaft. If you do need to replace the seals you need to do some research on your particular shock first. Showa in particular can be a little tricky when it comes to removing the shaft nut. They peen the external threads down to lock the nut on, but the shaft is hollow and it's where the rebound needle lives. If you cut too much, or just force the nut off, you can get to a point where there's not enough shaft material left to retain the rebound stuff inside the shaft. Racetech has a good video on their site with good diagrams showing exactly what's going on. And it's not the end of the world if you goof up and go to far. I'm guilty! Racetech sells a repair nut that will save your bacon if you mess up. It's about $10, so not an expensive mistake if it does happen. 

Refilling the nitrogen is something you'll want to check on first. See if you can find someone local that will do it for you. It takes a special chuck to do it, so your average welding shop most likely won't be able to help. I've heard some guys say the airsoft shops have helped them. My local dealership wanted the same price to refill the nitrogen as they charge for the whole service, so I just bought that filling station to keep on hand. We got a bunch of dirt bikes in our group, so we're always doing suspension work. That whole setup was under $200. 

The main thing is to just be patient. Bleeding the oil can be stubborn and time consuming some times. There's some tips that can help, so holler if you decide to dive in. If you're anywhere around the Roanoke-Lynchburg VA area just swing by and I'll give you a hand. 

 

 

Edited by shinyribs
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Just now, shinyribs said:

If you're anywhere around the Roanoke-Lynchburg VA area just swing by and I'll give you a hand. 

This is awesome!  This is an offer worth riding 6 hours for. Any time someone with special knowledge, skills, equipment or expertise offers a hand there is no better way to make friends, learn and save money.  All the better when that person is patient and a good teacher. 

We've had more fun at open shop days than you can imagine. This is great for the sport and generates an incredible amount of parts and accessory sales.

You rock!

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2 hours ago, shinyribs said:

It's really not too bad. There's some steps where you need to be careful to prevent damaging expensive parts, but it's nothing to fear. Just in case you don't already know, the stock shocks aren't serviceable. They're sealed units that you can't really crack open at home. 

Every shock can have slight differences, but this video covers 95% of everything you can expect. 

For just a service, oil change and refill, you don't have to remove the nut that holds the valving and seal head on the shaft. If you do need to replace the seals you need to do some research on your particular shock first. Showa in particular can be a little tricky when it comes to removing the shaft nut. They peen the external threads down to lock the nut on, but the shaft is hollow and it's where the rebound needle lives. If you cut too much, or just force the nut off, you can get to a point where there's not enough shaft material left to retain the rebound stuff inside the shaft. Racetech has a good video on their site with good diagrams showing exactly what's going on. And it's not the end of the world if you goof up and go to far. I'm guilty! Racetech sells a repair nut that will save your bacon if you mess up. It's about $10, so not an expensive mistake if it does happen. 

Refilling the nitrogen is something you'll want to check on first. See if you can find someone local that will do it for you. It takes a special chuck to do it, so your average welding shop most likely won't be able to help. I've heard some guys say the airsoft shops have helped them. My local dealership wanted the same price to refill the nitrogen as they charge for the whole service, so I just bought that filling station to keep on hand. We got a bunch of dirt bikes in our group, so we're always doing suspension work. That whole setup was under $200. 

The main thing is to just be patient. Bleeding the oil can be stubborn and time consuming some times. There's some tips that can help, so holler if you decide to dive in. If you're anywhere around the Roanoke-Lynchburg VA area just swing by and I'll give you a hand. 

 

 

Opps, mine are stock. LOL. I like to fiddle around kind of bummed out. I'll find something. LOL

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4 hours ago, mossrider said:

This is awesome!  This is an offer worth riding 6 hours for. Any time someone with special knowledge, skills, equipment or expertise offers a hand there is no better way to make friends, learn and save money.  All the better when that person is patient and a good teacher. 

We've had more fun at open shop days than you can imagine. This is great for the sport and generates an incredible amount of parts and accessory sales.

You rock!

Thanks for the kind words, but more importantly...yeah, you gotta give when you can. Over half my riding buddy's I met by one another offering help or just reaching out in general. Open shop days are a lot of fun, and there's always someone you can learn something cool from. 

It's a good feeling branching out and developing a good group of guys and gaks..See a truck with a dirt bike in the bed? Hang around until the owner shows up and invite him over to ride your trails. Gotta be careful though. One weekend we ended up with 14 guys at my place riding 😂 Was a wee bit crowded. We had a good time though.  

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Speaking of riding buddies, a close friend swung by the shop for a visit today. He'd machined up this little tag bracket to give me. How cool is that ?!

1024793355_IMG_20210704_1554263282.thumb.jpg.9f1b3118321a6f043602efa0c51d6a84.jpg

 

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I haven't been riding for two weeks because I was sick with the 'rona, so today I went to the garage to look at my MT07. I caressed her and patted her, and told her how much I miss her, and that we may be okay enough to go riding this weekend.

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bartman5impson

Installed a set of Michelin Power 5s after my rear Road 5 got punctured for the second time. I got good use out of the Road 5s so I can't complain. I racked up 15,000 miles on them and they never lost traction except when I was pushing too hard in gravel or damp roads. I would have gone with the Road 5s again but it seems they've gone up in price and I didn't want to spend 400 + tax on them.

power5.jpg

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Civiltechyyc

Celebrated three (3) months to the date that I ordered my Akra Carbon exhaust and still haven't received it nor been given a shipping date. Bike has been tuned for it even. Don't believe i'll get it this riding season as it's typically only another 3.5 months here in Canada.

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On 7/6/2021 at 3:09 PM, bartman5impson said:

Installed a set of Michelin Power 5s after my rear Road 5 got punctured for the second time. I got good use out of the Road 5s so I can't complain. I racked up 15,000 miles on them and they never lost traction except when I was pushing too hard in gravel or damp roads. I would have gone with the Road 5s again but it seems they've gone up in price and I didn't want to spend 400 + tax on them.

power5.jpg

Oooh, I like the of that tire. Tread depth looks meaty. Haven't met a Michelin Power I didn't like. I'll have to look in to these.

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Fixed the bike after a low side at the track 

Thanks to the fork slider from lightech and engine protectors from gb racing for saving my bike ! 
Just the handlebar to change and needed a couple of new bolt, the shift lever and new peg for the chinesium rearsets ( 25 euros for both left and right spares !!) 

The bike is fine, but the left side plastics are scratched.. may seriously think of upgrading to the 2021 fairing and using my 2015 fairing as track only plastics 

 

Edited by Mad
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Installed an ignition switched, supposedly waterproof USB socket/battery meter in the front. Not sure I'm gonna keep it there though, thinking I might be better off with it hidden under the fairing with a phone charger cable snaking front and a multi-charge cable routed to the tail. 

Anyone have a line on water resistant/rugged charge cables that come in shorter lengths, preferably with tip covers?

 

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211210521_868074444122373_7248226672297843019_n.jpg

209447603_4073083242788407_7225874533988238012_n.jpg

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I fitted a ContRoll brand quickshifter, and plugged it into the PCV.

Took it out for a spin, it works really well. Looking forward to the next track day.

 

PXL_20210710_063544569.jpg

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Oil and coolant change, new spark plugs and clean lube chain. Took her for a spin and loving every minute of it. Probably going to change the brake fluid this week.

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Trying to locate the auxiliary cord. I've seen videos of others tracking it down so I know its there. 

I bought a usb-auxiliary plug cable through Amazon.  The plug on the end of mine is like that of a battery tender and what I see guys pulling out is a flat faceed two pin female type. Can anyone give me some assistance here. 😤

TIA Zeke

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7 hours ago, FZWes said:

Trying to locate the auxiliary cord. I've seen videos of others tracking it down so I know its there. 

I bought a usb-auxiliary plug cable through Amazon.  The plug on the end of mine is like that of a battery tender and what I see guys pulling out is a flat faceed two pin female type. Can anyone give me some assistance here. 😤

It will be there, you can only access it once the left side tank fairing is off.

It's not very obvious to see at first, a torch will help.

I think on the later models the end of the connector is taped up, makes it even harder to see.

 

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15 hours ago, FZWes said:

Trying to locate the auxiliary cord. I've seen videos of others tracking it down so I know its there. 

I bought a usb-auxiliary plug cable through Amazon.  The plug on the end of mine is like that of a battery tender and what I see guys pulling out is a flat faceed two pin female type. Can anyone give me some assistance here. 😤

TIA Zeke

If I remember correctly, the factory aux plug doesn't support very much power. Before pulling your hair out looking for it you might want to look in to that. A good USB connection should be 2.5 amps and I'm not sure that factory plug will do that. Might not be worth the effort. 

Edited by shinyribs
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The Aux is rated at 3.0 Amps, and fused for that I believe.  It is also switched with the key switch, so any charger connected won't drain your battery.  A simple hook up to buy ready made or make yourself if you can solder. Lots of information here if you do a search. If you are running higher powered add-ons, like a heated butt warmer or grips, you may want to run power from an added in relay, also simple to wire up.

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strongarmcynic

Hello everyone. I'm new here. I have a 2021 Mt07. Today I installed a Power Commander 5 and installed the DNA air filter and airbox lid mod. I looked on the power commander website for a map for the stock exhaust with the DNA air filter and airbox lid. They have that map for 2020 and older. However I have a 2021. Power commander wouldn't allow me to upload the 2020 map onto it. So I ended up copying the values from the 2020 map on to the current map. Got everything back together, and it still ran rather lean. Lean enough to run bad. I contacted Dyno jet to see if they can put together a map for me but they said they don't have enough testing on the 2021 to make one yet. The 2021 model must be moving more air than the previous models. I'm going the throw the bike on the dyno and see what just the air filter and lid will make with the stock exhaust. Currently im sitting at 69 whp stock. I have a full arrow system and ecu flash on the way. Will update... 

Edited by strongarmcynic
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