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What did you do to your Yamaha FZ-07 today?


Cruizin

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Cookie Monster

Installed an integrated LED tail, LED turn signals, and the tail-tidy last weekend.  Today took it for a ride through some twisties with a friend of mine and then we grabbed coffee.  Came home and just finished installing rhinomoto bar-ends and chinesium bar-end mirrors!

 

She needs a wash.

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Edited by Cookie Monster
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So today is the first time I switched from Castrol Actevo 10W-40 to 20W-50 in my FZ-07. I was really surprised how much thicker the 20W-50 is. I have not ridden it yet with the new oil. 

According to the manual, the 20W-50 is OK, but I'm curious if anybody has been using it, and what your thoughts are about 20W-50 in the FZ/MT-07.

Thanks

 

 

Edited by FZ not MT
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🤷‍♂️ More engine wear by cold starts, but better for riding races in places like Death Valley? Don't know

I installed a Magura hydraulic clutch system yesterday and the lever moves very easily now. Feels like it only needs half as much power as before. Today I will try it on the road

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14 hours ago, FZ not MT said:

According to the manual, the 20W-50 is OK, but I'm curious if anybody has been using it, and what your thoughts are about 20W-50 in the FZ/MT-07.

In theory you will lose a tiny bit of power and fuel economy.  I don't use 20W-50 unless the engine is starting to burn oil or show other signs of age. 

It's not going to hurt anything though, unless it's very cold out.  Back in the 1980s I had 20W-50 in my Vega, and got in it to go to work when it was -10F out.  The starter couldn't turn the engine and I had to pour a few bucketfuls of water over the block to warm it up.

Edited by Triple Jim
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FZ not MT
On 4/30/2023 at 12:14 PM, Triple Jim said:

In theory you will lose a tiny bit of power and fuel economy.  I don't use 20W-50 unless the engine is starting to burn oil or show other signs of age. 

It's not going to hurt anything though, unless it's very cold out.  Back in the 1980s I had 20W-50 in my Vega, and got in it to go to work when it was -10F out.  The starter couldn't turn the engine and I had to pour a few bucketfuls of water over the block to warm it up.

I took my bike for a ride today. The oil that I drained didn't look great although it had more time on it than it had miles. The 20W-50 ran great. The bike lost a noticeable amount of the first downshift clunk into 1st gear which was good. It ran and accelerated noticeably smoother, but how much of that was due to new oil in general versus the 20W-50, who knows.

I talked with my mechanic, who is also a good friend, and he said he puts 20W-50 in his bikes for the summer and 10W-40 in the winter. I'll ride it for the summer, and if I notice anything strange, I'll post about it to let everyone know.

 

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Triple Jim
1 hour ago, FZ not MT said:

I talked with my mechanic, who is also a good friend, and he said he puts 20W-50 in his bikes for the summer and 10W-40 in the winter.

That might make sense for an air cooled engine.

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Triple Jim
21 hours ago, FZ not MT said:

The bike lost a noticeable amount of the first downshift clunk into 1st gear which was good.

Someone here pointed out that if you shift to first gear before you start the engine, you eliminate the clunk.

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Pursuvant
On 5/1/2023 at 6:02 PM, Triple Jim said:

That might make sense for an air cooled engine.

I never had an oil fail (technology wise). I ran "trick shift" transmission fluid in the Kaw H1 triple (2-stroke) back in the late '70s, I just can't think of any motor or transmission fluid that ever failed since those days.

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Triple Jim
9 minutes ago, Pursuvant said:

I never had an oil fail (technology wise). I ran "trick shift" transmission fluid in the Kaw H1 triple (2-stroke) back in the late '70s, I just can't think of any motor or transmission fluid that ever failed since those days.

I don't think the oil will fail.  My point is that a liquid cooled engine doesn't run much hotter in the summer than the winter.

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Pursuvant
On 5/1/2023 at 4:31 PM, FZ not MT said:

... ran and accelerated noticeably smoother, but how much of that was due to new oil in general versus the 20W-50, who knows

 

I've got observer bias, everything I work/do is "better". Ya, no.

It's like asking "did you notice the sensation of the soles of your feet" before i asked?

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FZ not MT
1 minute ago, Pursuvant said:

I've got observer bias, everything I work/do is "better". Ya, no.

I'm very good at discerning subtle changes in damn near everything - blessing and a curse.

It all started with that first hit of acid in the 70's....

 

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Ordered my Puig Windscreen and it came in today

puig_touring_naked_new_generation_windsc

Touring on a naked motorcycle has often meant getting beaten up by the wind blast, until now. Take back the road...

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Interesting design of the box

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And packing wasn't to bad. 

Will install tomorrow.
Want to ride it around first, install, then ride again for a better (hopefully) comparison 

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2022 Yamaha MT-07 Cyan Storm, 2005 Kawasaki Vulcan 2000 [VN2000A], 1997 Yamaha YZF600R - Thundercat [project]

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  • 1 month later...

Finally changed out the rear shock with a ktech razor lite. Very excited to ride this weekend.

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report back on how much improvement you see.  Very interested.

It's more fun naked!!

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On 6/9/2023 at 6:59 AM, Migyver said:

report back on how much improvement you see.  Very interested.

Just took the bike out for my daily commute today (just for fun). The ktech feels stiffer than OEM, which is good (I weigh 200 lbs with gear). Here are some initial thoughts

  • Less tipping back and forward when going from braking to acceleration and acceleration to braking
  • Moderate, smooth braking doesn't cause my bike to dip forward as much
  • Bike doesn't feel like wheelieing as much (more planted)
  • Potholes are still potholes, but the rear feels less bouncy

Overall, I am very happy. This was an upgrade I waited a whole year to do, and it is worth it! It feels like the MT07 SP edition that Yamaha doesn't make. I don't have much to say about how damping is, perhaps the bike feeling more stable means the damping is already improved. I will need to take my bike to curvy roads to get a better feel for this shock. Overall comfort is improved.

I still need to dial in sag, and throughout the week, I'll play around with rebound damping (currently at 16 clicks out of 32) to see how that affects the ride.

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M. Hausknecht

Everything you describe is consistent with you now having enough rear spring for your weight, and the increased damping (especially rebound) to go with it.

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AdamKareem87

took a few photos of my bike finally and hoping to find someone local in NC to help with a rear shock install.

 

 

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fz2.jpg

Edited by AdamKareem87
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M. Hausknecht

Where in NC are you? I'm on the coast, southeast corner of the state. A shock swap takes just a few minutes once you figure out how to keep the bike off the ground. Never mind, I see from another post you're in the Charlotte area.

Edited by M. Hausknecht
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AdamKareem87

Yeah just need to figure out how to keep the bike off the ground. Prob just bite the bullet and buy a stand.

Edited by AdamKareem87
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M. Hausknecht
7 hours ago, AdamKareem87 said:

Yeah just need to figure out how to keep the bike off the ground. Prob just bit the bullet and buy a stand.

For shock removal, a swing arm stand doesn't work entirely because then you can't get the load off the shock. I have rigid foot pegs, which makes it easy: lift the rear with the stand and then put jack-stands under the pegs. The other option is to use a hydraulic jack under the oil pan. Its plenty strong and reasonably stable. Then there are various options for hanging the bike from the rafters or from ladders adjacent to the bike.

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Swapped the complete headlight assembly for a full LED one. Really happy with the result! The lighting improvement is just amazing.

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Discover the magic of the internet at Imgur, a community powered entertainment destination. Lift your spirits with funny jokes...

 

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35 minutes ago, Royales83 said:

Swapped the complete headlight assembly for a full LED one. Really happy with the result! The lighting improvement is just amazing.

The lighting distribution looks even and much better. Where did you purchase the LED headlight assembly?

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9 hours ago, M. Hausknecht said:

For shock removal, a swing arm stand doesn't work entirely because then you can't get the load off the shock. I have rigid foot pegs, which makes it easy: lift the rear with the stand and then put jack-stands under the pegs. The other option is to use a hydraulic jack under the oil pan. Its plenty strong and reasonably stable. Then there are various options for hanging the bike from the rafters or from ladders adjacent to the bike.

On the mini bike I just had someone rock the bike onto the side stand to pull the two shock bolts off and swap the rear shock...

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nozeitgeist1800
On 6/11/2023 at 10:48 PM, AdamKareem87 said:

Yeah just need to figure out how to keep the bike off the ground. Prob just bite the bullet and buy a stand.

getting a good stand is totally worth the money, but wont help much with this project, though. a good a-frame ladder will, though, along with some good 1000+lbs rated ratchet straps and youre golden. you can even return the ladder afterwards if you buy it just for this application

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