Seems Yamaha made a boo boo on the drain plug torque spec

[fzar]

On 10/4/2021 at 2:31 PM, shinyribs said:

Something like 80 pounds. 80!!!!

Ha ha I hear ya its 76 lbs/ft. I'm happy at 65, Done.

 

[mt7fan]

I use 66 lbs/ft with the original nut for years. No problems. The bike is from 2016. 

I use also copper paste. 

Edited October 12, 2021 by mt7fan

[klx678]

Seems the OEM nut results are a gamble, some have no problems while others do.  I decided not to gamble.   More money than I want to lose.

[FZWes]

On 10/4/2021 at 12:31 PM, shinyribs said:

32ft is head stud range torque values! Ouch! I'm with Jim, I can't imagine someone pulling on a wrench THAT hard and not questioning it. 

 

Likewise, it seems the rear axle torque value is also insane in the manual. Something like 80 pounds. 80!!!! No wonder folks are killing those axle nuts! 

I swear, 90% of all stripped threads I see are preluded by a torque wrench. Just tighten it until it's tight, then stop. 

I like to tighten with my hand on the rachet head. Once its tight on there I'll give a about a 1/4 turn from a normal grip. 

[foochi]

On 10/11/2021 at 2:59 PM, klx678 said:

Bummer, just don't order another nut.  They are crap.  Get the axle and do the nylock nut or a castle nut and drill the axle.

Before I even posted I had ordered a nut with the axle and washer. I'd swap it out no problem though. What kind of metal is the axle made of or what metal should the castle nut be?

Even by this post I've already replaced them. I torqued it to 60 lb/ft and used anti seize.

 

Edited October 13, 2021 by foochi

[klx678]

Axle is steel.  I'd do a stainless nut and anti-seize...  which I did.   A bright zinc coated nut would do fine.  The high buck ones are titanium.