Torque Spec for the Bolt That Holds the Shift Pedal ON

[klx678]

1 minute ago, Triple Jim said:

I think you mean 25.4.

OOPS!  yeah.  I'll edit it.   I'm so used to doing the measures on a calculator, but apparently get a bit dyslexic when writing the numbers.

[ElGonzales]

Ha I knew that I saw a torque value for this screw in one of my service manuals. Now I found it. Unfortunately for you it's a german only book. Bucheli Verlag Band 5310. 

    

"Grease the bearing well, push the wave washer and washer onto the bearing screw, push the screw into the foot shift lever, push on the washer, apply a small drop of Loctite "medium strength" to the cleaned thread, screw in the screw and tighten to 22 Nm."

 

[klx678]

22 nm = 194 in-lb = 16 ft-lb  rounded numbers.  Sounds a bit high unless it is an M8.  It probably is an M8 thread.

[Pursuvant]

If I didn't have to torque cam caps every year and the countershaft sprocket nut every 3, I could throw my torque wrenches away. There just not important (except when they are).

And funny thing is, those two examples are nuts that the threads are wetted with oil before torque. It's that oil that makes me cautious, going slow and in smaller amounts. I always feel like "ok, I'm not there yet but I am not torquing these any further" and that's when they usually "click".

[ElGonzales]

11 hours ago, klx678 said:

22 nm = 194 in-lb = 16 ft-lb  rounded numbers.  Sounds a bit high unless it is an M8.  It probably is an M8 thread.

Yes. I will have a look by myself this afternoon to this strange mysterious thing and use the opportunity to put some new grease on it ^^ 

Edited July 4, 2023 by ElGonzales

[Triple Jim]

I can't imagine that the bolt is M6, which is less than 1/4 inch. 

[ElGonzales]

Ok, it is a M8 bolt with the perfect thread lenght of 16mm for a steel in aluminium connection.
A rule of thumb I always use: if you want to screw a steel bolt into an aluminium thread with the torque for class 8 bolts, the thread lenght should be twice the diameter.

So I cleaned the bolt, polished it like shiny new, took some hyper special water resistant NATO marine spec grease and gave it 22 Nm with some Loctite (middle strength). It made click and felt good, no problem.

 

 

 

Edited July 4, 2023 by ElGonzales

[Pursuvant]

7 hours ago, ElGonzales said:

Ok, it is a... and gave it 22 Nm with some Loctite (middle strength). It made click and felt good, no problem.

New A* Faster 3 Rideknit have me looking at shift lever, it's lacking love so...Off it came, solvent wipe clean, fresh kinky red tachy greezze and back on. When I notice a small(er) dia washer, on drive under bike.

Zoom in on first picture, the "back side" washer - it has a smaller washer stuck to it, you can see it on zoom. It gets cleaned and greased and back on the lever bolt "stack". And wavy washer "out side" waves "hello" to passers-by & keeps the rattles away.

It's easy to miss. Also the factory had enough loctite to create a blue fishing pond. That larger washer is effectively glued to frame by loctite on my moto.

Grease and this smaller washer I almost forgot, are what move/allow lever movement. Looking at the stack, it's eazee to understand intent.

I am saddened to report that I did not torque bolt to 22nm or anything else. I snugged it with the monkey's hand, that makes "hom-ey sap-ie-ens" an almost useful species, that still have 249 million years to equal dinosaurs reign

I have not made it click or feel good yet. I want to, but no torque wrench, this is wrong, all wrong. How might I get the old grease back inside, to put this system back in it's prior state?

 

 

 

 

[klx678]

Y'know I really never used a torque wrench much, except on doing the top end or a rebuild... until I snapped an axle clamp nut and had to sit out a beautiful weekend...