Stalling Issues?

[crazycracka501]

Mine stalls usually in the afternoon, when its 95+ outside, stop and go traffic and its just like bigity's problems.  
Anybody know whats causing it? or a way to fix it?
 
Also, I had weird problem yesterday, I started the bike, it was in neutral, clutch was in, and when I put it into first, it died. I did that a few times, before I turned the key off and then back on and tried it again, then it worked. It had me worried! any ideas?

I did that too, but my kickstand was down, made me feel real dumb in front of my buddies.

[enderokc]

Mine stalls usually in the afternoon, when its 95+ outside, stop and go traffic and its just like bigity's problems.  
Anybody know whats causing it? or a way to fix it?
 
Also, I had weird problem yesterday, I started the bike, it was in neutral, clutch was in, and when I put it into first, it died. I did that a few times, before I turned the key off and then back on and tried it again, then it worked. It had me worried! any ideas?

I did that too, but my kickstand was down, made me feel real dumb in front of my buddies.

 
 
Kickstand wasn't down, but I'll check the sensor thanks! Never thought of that.

[cassecou]

Also, I had weird problem yesterday, I started the bike, it was in neutral, clutch was in, and when I put it into first, it died. I did that a few times, before I turned the key off and then back on and tried it again, then it worked. It had me worried! any ideas?

I have seen that problem in the past on other model bikes as being an idle issue, but some here have had their dealers increase the idle and the bikes still stall. Maybe raising the idle some more would work. It then could be some resistance of some sort in the new motor. After a few 100 or 1000 miles (depending how the engine was broken in), the engine being fully broken in and all part being fitted and smooth, the issue goes away on its own.
I don't have the bike yet, but many of you have found the gear box being very smooth, maybe too smooth. Generally, gear boxes are not that smooth.
In most bikes, there is a "klank" when shifting from neutral to 1st gear. This is due to the gear catching up with the engine running (somewhat) fast (which is normal) at idle. The idle might just be set extremely low and must be set properly.
To find out more, could you guys post your idle rpm when the bike is warm and if you have the stall issue, or not.
 

[Guru]

Guru, do you have the aftermarket exhaust and fuel EJK installed? 

No, all original. 
 

I have seen that problem in the past on other model bikes as being an idle issue, but some here have had their dealers increase the idle and the bikes still stall. Maybe raising the idle some more would work. It then could be some resistance of some sort in the new motor. After a few 100 or 1000 miles (depending how the engine was broken in), the engine being fully broken in and all part being fitted and smooth, the issue goes away on its own.
I don't have the bike yet, but many of you have found the gear box being very smooth, maybe too smooth. Generally, gear boxes are not that smooth.
In most bikes, there is a "klank" when shifting from neutral to 1st gear. This is due to the gear catching up with the engine running (somewhat) fast (which is normal) at idle. The idle might just be set extremely low and must be set properly.
To find out more, could you guys post your idle rpm when the bike is warm and if you have the stall issue, or not.

When my bike went for first service I had them increase the RPM by 100. It's hard to tell what the exact rpm is when warm, the display bar isn't accurate but I would say 1100 or so.  
It has more of a clunk when going from neutral to first, but it hasn't stalled anymore. It could me a combination of the higher idle rpm and the engine having some more miles on it (approx. 2000 now)
 
 
 

[cassecou]

When my bike went for first service I had them increase the RPM by 100. It's hard to tell what the exact rpm is when warm, the display bar isn't accurate but I would say 1100 or so.   It has more of a clunk when going from neutral to first, but it hasn't stalled anymore. It could me a combination of the higher idle rpm and the engine having some more miles on it (approx. 2000 now)
 
 

1100rpm might be the sweet spot. read this Idle Speed 

[redrover]

New owner here, had the bike for a few days, close to 200 miles on it. I commute on my 07 in low 80s in the AM and high 90s - 100s in the PM, humid as well; no stalling yet. My coolant temp gauge has indicated at least 223F in traffic, and still things are fine.
 
I got used to the really unforgiving FI on my TU250X, which is like a light switch if you chop the throttle; it really shuts down on you, so I have been habituated to careful low rpm throttle management. I know the modern bikes are very, very lean, at least through 4-5000 RPM, which is the range the EPA is monitoring test engines from manufacturers for certification. Thank the gods of thunder for liquid cooling; I've had a couple aircooled FI bikes, and stock they have been uniformly rough performers, hot or cold...

[Guest Ralph]

Always make sure you let it do the full start up thing before you actually press the starter.

[lonerider]

Well, my bike stalled once yesterday. And to be honest, i don't think it's an issue. It happens a couple of times (less than 10) since i owned the bike (end of june). When it happens, the bike is warm. I noticed that my synchronization with my right wrist is lazy when i stalled the bike. Seems like the wide point of friction could be the cause and call for giving some gas as soon as i begin to release the clutch.
 
Because i don't see that as an issue, i didn't try to adjust the clutch.
 
my 2 cents.

[TwistedTorque]

Finally happened. I was stuck in standstill traffic for about 40 mins. Stalled 3 times. Bike temp was around ~215-220 and air temp was probably around ~85. I'd have to double check my idle I think it was 1000 but I'm not 100%.

[olderthandirt]

Our bikes have a "fuel cut off" that is triggered by the CPU at closed throttle. Thank you EPA for the closed loop super lean nonsense. When you rev the bike at a stop...or downshift coming to a stop...or if the temp is high {over 90 degrees usually} the fuel to the motor is abruptly turned on and off....and that makes the bike stall. I've had mine stall a few times....and most of the time it happens when just pulling out from a dead stop when the outside temp is warm. So it's just a matter of when you increase the rpms to let out the clutch lever...don't confuse the motor by blipping the gas too often. I'm aware of the bike doing this and I still stall out once in a while.
 
I just had my 600 mi service done a few days ago...so I'm sure the throttle bodies are in sync and everything is right. It's just a characteristic of this bike and can be avoided if careful.
When CPU re flashes become available for our FZ 07'S...the "fuel cutoff" function can be turned off in the CPU and it won't stall anymore.
 
Not sure if the EJK fuel controller will address the stalling...but it isn't a big enough issue for me to worry about it.

[aeisan]

Our bikes have a "fuel cut off" that is triggered by the CPU at closed throttle. Thank you EPA for the closed loop super lean nonsense. When you rev the bike at a stop...or downshift coming to a stop...or if the temp is high {over 90 degrees usually} the fuel to the motor is abruptly turned on and off....and that makes the bike stall. I've had mine stall a few times....and most of the time it happens when just pulling out from a dead stop when the outside temp is warm. So it's just a matter of when you increase the rpms to let out the clutch lever...don't confuse the motor by blipping the gas too often. I'm aware of the bike doing this and I still stall out once in a while.  
I just had my 600 mi service done a few days ago...so I'm sure the throttle bodies are in sync and everything is right. It's just a characteristic of this bike and can be avoided if careful.
When CPU re flashes become available for our FZ 07'S...the "fuel cutoff" function can be turned off in the CPU and it won't stall anymore.
 
Not sure if the EJK fuel controller will address the stalling...but it isn't a big enough issue for me to worry about it.

I'm nearly certain this is my problem.  It happened to me again in tight traffic riding to work this morning.  I can now rule out heat as being part of the issue, because it was a cool 72 out; motor was running at about 175 deg-F.  I think I can easily reproduce the cause now - clutch pulled all the way in, either stopped or just coasting, and a tiny blip of the throttle.  Tiny blip being the key.  Big hearty blips and revving seem OK, like I had to do yesterday and the idiot lady that pulled out in front of me and then stopped to turn right immediately thereafter - I lit it up just to let her know of my displeasure.  
 
But coasting slowly with the clutch pulled all the way in or stopped with the clutch pulled all the way in, if I ever so slightly blip (as in not roll on it smoothly or delicately) the throttle it just dies and it has nothing to do with too much clutch engagement because it only happenes when I have the clutch pulled all the way in.  
 
As OTD says, I think this is more of an annoyance and a case of "working almost as intended" rather than an outright issue with the bike.  I am sure I can teach myself to avoid it, but I think I'd rather not have to haha.  Hoping the EJK does make it go away.  
 
Just for the record:  I'm at ~300 miles, idle at about 1100 RPM (as best I can tell on the digital tach) and I have tightened up the throttle cable a tad to take out the little slack it had in it (that doesn't seem to have any impact). Again, I would call today's ride to work cool, so I don't think this is isolated to excessive heat.  

[dandydon]

Only stalled one time and that was operator error. I can't lug this bike like I can my Harley. Have to be in the proper gear or it will stall.

[Donimo]

 
A came across a comment in the following review:
 
http://www.visordown.com/road-tests/so-is-yamahas-mt-07-really-better-than-an-sv650s/25277.html
 
"I know Yamaha fuel their bikes very lean but there's usually a fix by changing the CO setting in the clocks. Google "XT660 CO setting" and you should find out how."
 
So this seems to be a well-known thing on many other Yamahas.  Here it is being discussed for the FZ/MT-09:
 
http://www.fz09.org/forum/6-fz-09-general-discussion/1357-does-fz-09-french-mt-09-diag-video-2.html
 
"1. Ignition off, hold down "MODE" and "SELECT" buttons on dash.
2. Turn on ignition via key and keep holding down those buttons for about 6-8 seconds until "DIAG" appears on dash.
3. Press the "MODE" button to go to the next screen which displays "CO"
4. Again hold both mode and select buttons for a few seconds, you will hear a tick from near the tank and the display will change to "CO 1". This is your first cylinder. You can scroll through the other cylinders by using the mode or select button.
5. Select desired cylinder and again hold both mode and select buttons for a few seconds, you will then see a value appear that can be changed......mode to go up in value, select to go down in value.
6. Once desired value is reached, again press the mode and select buttons together to save this value and return to the previous cylinder select screen. You dont need to hold them this time, just press them both at the same time.
 
Repeat steps 5 and 6 for the other cylinders. Once all values have been set and saved and you are back at the cylinder selection screeen, simply turn off ignition. Done."
 
 
 
Anyone want to see if the option is even available on their 07?   Anyone brave enough to make a change?
 
Donimo
(who has not yet received his, or he'd give it a shot.)
 
 
 

[crazycracka501]

If I had an issue with my bike actually stalling, I'd totally do it. Was thinking of doing it just to allow the bike to run without running so lean. Could I do this without changing the intake or exhaust and still have a running bike?

[aeisan]

Tried it, and nothing happens when holding both buttons down and turning ignition on. Not after 6-8 seconds, or ever.

[redrover]

Only stalled one time and that was operator error. I can't lug this bike like I can my Harley. Have to be in the proper gear or it will stall.

Same here, my sportster ruined my sensitivity to low flywheel inertia; I stalled departing at a light, still too used to the heavy flywheel of the sportster just letting me roll off with little input! 

[aeisan]

I've got about 580 miles on the bike now, and between the motor definitely getting the feeling of being more broken in and having tightened up the throttle cable, I am having a lot less issues blipping the throttle and stalling (almost none now). I'm sure gaining muscle memory and overall feel for the bike has helped a ton too, as it always does with any new bike.  
 
Now if only I could hear the darn RPMs and motor revving ha... Fix for that coming soon.

[scordiaboy515]

Only stalled one time and that was operator error. I can't lug this bike like I can my Harley. Have to be in the proper gear or it will stall.

Same here, my sportster ruined my sensitivity to low flywheel inertia; I stalled departing at a light, still too used to the heavy flywheel of the sportster just letting me roll off with little input! 

    I hear ya, I've owned 2 Sporty's and a Buell  

[biker2014]

i had a test ride on an mt 07 in england today. 1 hour ride, stalled 3 times

[qjohnson]

I remember my wr250x would stall sometimes when I blipped the throttle. Maybe the guys on one of those forums have figured it out by now. It could be the same reason seeing as the 250x and the fz07 are both yamaha and fuel injected. Just a random thought that crossed my mind.

[Guru]

My WR250X never stalled in the 2.5 years I owned it. I had the problem with the 07 when I was still breaking it in (as I mentioned in my first post) but it never happened again.

[wr250x]

I have had this happen once on my wr250x. And after seeing this thread I have been able to reproduce the same ..clutch in, very slight blip, and stall. Weird but totally avoidable once you know...
I've been lurking these threads for a while..and my riding my wr for almost two years now..the 09 was to much bike for me, but the 07 is tempting. .

[qjohnson]

My WR250X never stalled in the 2.5 years I owned it. I had the problem with the 07 when I was still breaking it in (as I mentioned in my first post) but it never happened again.

Really? My 250x would do it at least once a week lol. Just go to blip the throttle and it would shut off. Was yours stock? I had just about every mod known to man on mine.

[trebec]

Maybe my bike is different being a California model, I saw this thread when I first picked up my bike. I was on a ride with about 100 miles on it and was horsing around and stalled it, took a second but it fired right back up and nothing the rest of the day. Then a couple days later I stalled it at a light not paying attention. I now have close to 700 miles in 2 weeks riding from as low as 65 degrees to almost 105 and no further issues. I have done the first service, adjusted the throttle bodies and ride pretty aggressively. My clutch cable adjustment is screwed all the way in for almost immediate clutch grab. I also recently adjusted the throttle to take up all the extra slack. I have not had any other issues with stalling be it through blipping for downshifts, pulling the clutch in and abruptly stopping or even letting 1st gear bog me down to almost a stop. I live in SoCal and more than likely have extra emissions crap on the bike. Where do the rest of you live, I am curious to see what we come up with.

[Guest Ralph]

Mine a UK one has done it about 5 times up to the 600 mile service but not since,
usually after it's been running a for a time then switched off for a few min, on restart into
traffic or slow running stop start thats when it will do it, make sure you report
it to your dealer or Yamaha they will tell you it doesn't happen but will be working
on a fix or reflash as they have with the 09, mine has been lodged by the dealer.
Long ride coming up on Fri so will see if it behaves now around 1000 miles on the clock
and weather getting cool so dont know, but I suspect it's heat related the engine
gets a little cooked when stopped and spits it'd dummy out the pram.