Stalling Issues?

[Guest Ralph]

The bike has a timeout where if left idling for 20 min it cuts off
could you be leaving it that long, I just fire it up give it time for
the idele to settle not more than 30 secs and ride it getaly for the first
mile or so. by the time I am at the end of the st not more than 400 yards
it is at over 40c 

[YZEtc]

No need to let it run for 10 minutes before riding away.
Three minutes and then riding gently for the first mile or so is just fine and dandy.If you go by coolant temperature shown on the meter, 130 degrees works for me.Letting it sit there until the fan comes on?Why?

[vi5a]

I do other things while warmup like go back inside and eat breakfast.

[YZEtc]

Eat beforehand. Put on your helmet and gloves during warm-up.

[jerryv]

Eat beforehand. Put on your helmet and gloves during warm-up.

Yeah, they heat up pretty quick .. I idle while I'm strapping down my back pack, putting on gloves etc.  By then, she's warmed up and ready to roll.  Does not require much foreplay  
 

[TwistedTorque]

Stalled 3 times today at red lights. I'm getting a bit upset now. I had a big truck come up behind me. I'm going to have to take it in to the dealer and have them check the idle etc.

[rick]

My last ride i stalled mine 3 times. Have just shy of 600 miles now. I switch back and forth to another bike - an Aprilia Futura that I never stall. It's throttle off idle is a bit abrupt and I've always sorta used the clutch to tame the thing from revving too much and launching hard w/o intention. The FZ's throttle is way softer off the bottom and needs a good twist in comparison. So mostly, I've been blaming the stalling on me. 44 years of riding doesn't seem to account for accumulated skill sometimes.
 
BTW, it seems to be worse after the bike is good and hot. I don't think my dealer would have a clue what to do with it.

[valhalla]

BTW, it seems to be worse after the bike is good and hot. I don't think my dealer would have a clue what to do with it.

Exactly. He doesn't even have a clue that there is a problem in the first place!  

[jerryv]

I've been quiet on this topic but over the course of 1600 miles I'd say I stalled about 10 times. Once was at an horrible time. I was making a 90 degree right turn from a traffic light in heavy traffic. Fortunately I did not get rear ended. A couple times may have been operator error. A few other times I think I saved a stall by blipping the throttle more. I do hope it gets sorted out, otherwise it runs flawlessly.

[MotoFuzzle]

I'm at almost 4k miles and I just had another stall this weekend, right as I was taking off at a green light. It was just a regular takeoff and as I was exiting the intersection on the other side, it sputtered and died. I was able to restart while I still had momentum. That's probably about the 6th time since owning the bike.

[valhalla]

I'm at almost 4k miles and I just had another stall this weekend, right as I was taking off at a green light. It was just a regular takeoff and as I was exiting the intersection on the other side, it sputtered and died. I was able to restart while I still had momentum. That's probably about the 6th time since owning the bike.

Interesting. Each time mine quit was only when I was [em]stationary[/em] while waiting at a red light, either in gear or neutral. When I released the clutch (if I was in gear) or shifted down into gear (if I was neutral) so as to proceed through the intersection is when the bike would crap out on me.  
 
 
 

[Guest Ralph]

Mine stalls or rather cuts out just as you touch the throttle to pick up the revs to set off
it will do it in neutral get it warmed up ticking over then just give it the slightest rev
just enough to raise the revs it may take a few goes but thats when it will do it, sometimes
it won't stop but will falter it feels like it's ticking over to slow and is trying to kick back.
Doesn't do it every time can be hundreds of miles then twice in a few min, it's not as though it's
short of torque the thing will set off in first second or even third gear without touching the
throttle the problem is getting less with miles and if it had a tickover adjuster I suspect you
would give it a tweak and the problem would go away but it hasn't.

[minner]

It happened to me today while downshifting from 3rd to 2nd in heavy traffic. I just restarted on the fly so I didn't run into trouble. I'm a new rider and blamed a couple of stalls at red light takeoff to inexperience. Now I'm wondering. This isn't safe. Looking forward to hearing from more with several thousand miles on the odometer

[jerryv]

It happened to me today while downshifting from 3rd to 2nd in heavy traffic. I just restarted on the fly so I didn't run into trouble. I'm a new rider and blamed a couple of stalls at red light takeoff to inexperience. Now I'm wondering. This isn't safe. Looking forward to hearing from more with several thousand miles on the odometer

Have not heard anyone say it's stalled when down-shifting.  The common issue is when launching from a dead stop.

[Guest Ralph]

They do but I seems to be the same problem you pull in the clutch revs drop to tickover you blip the throttle
to match the revs and that is when it cut's out just before you let out the clutch you do this all automatically
and very fast but I am convinced thats what happens. Hopefully enough complaints emphasizing the safety aspect
will get something done.
Lets be honest as I told the dealer if it was a car doing the same they would have been dumped back with
the dealer in no time at all just why motorcyclists are expected to put up with it beats me.

[rick]

I'm not gonna think one way or another on this until I've put vac gauges on mine in the spring. But I don't see why getting past break-in miles should make one lick bit of difference. As it is, I consider mine @ 600 miles to be past that break-in. I wasn't brutal with it, but starting at 25 miles, I wasn't gentle. I'm getting near 65 mpg and the exhaust's innards are clean.
 
Seems really hard to judge as there are a lot of new riders here. I'm not new in any sense of the word, lol( or a returnee for that matter, been riding since I was 17) to this 2 wheel thing or clutches ( I drive a car with a clutch as well). I also think that my jumping back and forth between a bike with a hair trigger throttle and the longest throw clutch imaginable (my Aprilia Futura) to the FZ with a soft throttle and a rather abrupt clutch, is not helping.
 
That said, this thing dies too easily and too often, imo.
 
Somewhere along the line, if Yamaha does not issue a new map ( my Aprilia went thru 3 maps to ease that abrupt throttle launch) to resolve this, it might take NHSTA. If enough people make a complaint, something like this can be resolved sometimes.
 
Jerry, just noticed yer signature - yeah, the side stand on this bike really could extend a bit further out and give a more positive feel in the process.

[valhalla]

Dec 14, 2014 9:58:03 GMT -5 rick said:
>>But I don't see why getting past break-in miles should make one lick bit of difference.<<
I don't either Rick and as Ralph says considering the potentially catastrophic results of your engine stalling at the wrong place and time it should not be stalling in the first place, period. 
However, it does appear that many 07 owners including me, are happy to report that the stalling does indeed decrease significantly over time.
Mine hasn't missed a beat (knock on wood) for hundreds of miles now.
     

[Geteup]

Unfortunately i can add my name to the list of affected riders. I have just shy of 400 miles and can say that it has happened to me half a dozen times. I am sure, as are others, that the instances are not related to rider error. Not new to bikes, on [HASH]4, and at a light just as i try to move off idle it shuts off like i flipped the cut-off. Always starts right back up but man those cars come up quick when they "think" you are taking off. Very scary...

[potatochips]

Shoot me, I didn't read through the thread, 8 pages, do people still have this problem with a fuel programmer? I'd go back and read, but people might not have mentioned anyway, so maybe someone can confirm they've had the problem with a programmer.
 
I had it happen once, from a dead stop, felt more like a fuel or electrical problem than dropping the clutch too fast. I didn't even know this thread existed, but thought that wasn't right, it will usually lurch forward if you drop the clutch too fast, but it just died. Fired right up though, no problem since. I only have 2 or 300 miles, first hundred on the track, no problem, the night I got back in town, took it for a quick spin to fill it, and it happened, no problem since.
 
This bike has the best off-idle fueling I've ridden without a programmer. On other bikes, off-idle, it can be abrupt, but the FZ07 is pretty smooth. However they accomplished the off-idle smoothness, might be causing the problem. Manufacturers usually credit emissions for shitty fueling.

[none]

I've had it happen a couple of times between 800-1200 miles. Seems that little blip of the throttle just before you let the clutch out triggers it. I have adjusted my riding but now and again i've tried to unsuccessfully invoke it. It's not happened in over 500 miles now so? idunno?
 
About off on fueling, I find this bike a bit abrupt. However I've been riding a perfectly jetted and tuned non emissioned carbed bike so all these fuel injected bikes seem jerky to me. I driven worse but I'd jump in line for a fix.

[rick]

We had an unusually warm late december day here yesterday, so just had to take a ride. I managed to get to the last place where I'd have to stop before stalling the dang thing. Sheesh. It did almost stall one other time. Not sure if the last one was my fault, but the almost one was a studder step the bike did on its own.
 
I don't always have the engine temp showing when I ride, but did yesterday. I noticed that there was a lot of quick fluctuation between 172 and 180 that just could not have been happening. When I got home, I popped the connector off of the temp sensor ( it's right in the middle of the cylinder back, between the throttle bodies) thinking that maybe the connection was a bit weak. I didn't go back out for a ride, but it seemed like the temp readings were more smooth afterward.
 
Of course, the weather has now gotten back to normal - meaning it's juat crap outside, so it'll be a while before aI can see if that resolved what I was watching yesterday.
 
But I have to wonder if the ECU was getting false temp info and that might have something to do with stalling at lights.
 
So, i'm curious if anyone else has noticed a temp fluctuation like this. At a constant speed, especially when it's only 50F out, that gauge should read a nice steady 172-ish F and not jump all obver the place.

[valhalla]

Dunno how relevant the following article would be to our own FZ-07's ubiquitous "stalling" issues but here it is anyway.... 
From CYCLE WORLD magazine, Jan 2015, p.53:
RANDOM ACTS OF DEADNESS
Q: Help! When I am riding my 2003 Yamaha Road Star Silverado 1600 I can be turning a corner or just going in a straight line and the bike will just shut off. It's like I hit the kill switch. But I didn't. When it shuts off, all I have to do is pull in the clutch and push the starter button and it will start. It doesn't do this all the time, just every now and then. Tonight I was on the highway with a big truck tight on my ass and a car to my right. We were going about 75 when the bike decided to quit. Not fun. No one can tell me what the problem is. All they tell me is that they can look at it. But that will cost a lot of money, and I don't have a lot of money.
A: Gee, that's always fun--a bike that quits with no warning, when you can least afford it. Look for dirty, corroded, worn, or loose connection exactly the same way a professional tech would (or should). Be methodical and patient. All electrical connections should be clean and tight.
Since you mentioned the engine does restart immediately on the starter, you probably don't have an ignition fault. The kill switch is a likely suspect. Switch internals can get vibrated to death or corrode. Next, check the ignition switch. As a test, try firing your bike up, and while it is idling grab the leads going to the respective switch/connector/button. Give a tug on the wires a bit to and fro to see if the bike will quit. Also, using a piece of wood, tap gently on the body of various components to see if that causes the bike to stall. Next, check the fuse box, battery posts, and cables, especially the ground. If it acts up, you've found the culprit. Don't ignore the kickstand cutout switch, either.
Try to resist the urge to pull apart every connector on the bike. Until you get desperate. Once you have disturbed a lot of connections, it will be difficult to be sure you have fixed the problem, until, of course, it dies on you out on the road again. Or not. This is a tough one, so be diligent.

[rick]

Saw that in Cycle World.
 
I truly hate side stand safety widgets. They're bolted on to one of the dirtiest spots on a motorcycle - it's even worse with a chain drive. Maybe it's nice that they keep you from driving away with the stand down (though I think this stand would kick up so lickity-split, you could drive away with it down all the time and never have an incident), when they fail do fail (and they do with dangerous regularity), the electrics think the stand is down and the motor shuts off. It doesn't care if yer in the fast lane at night in the rain.
 
That Road Star is 11 years old. Too many issues could cause it to stall - like a bunch of keys hanging off the ignition of a Chevy/Saturn or that stand switch or any plug with a weak connection subject to road vibrations/bumps..
 
If you wanted to eliminate that switch from the mix, they are usually easily bypassed. Aprilia actually makes a plug to bypass my Aprilia's switch. The ECU thinks the stand is always up. It's also not likely the clutch switch cause it starts right back up with the clutch still pulled. With the bike at idle and not moving, there's really no vibration to speak of.
 
There was, iirc, a recall for the 09s as some had a wiring harness going to the ignition that was a bit short. Might be worth a look at ours.
 
With that silly digital tach, it's really hard to tell if the motor is idling at 1180 or 1220. Can't remember the spec, but if it's 1200 RPM (where mine reads when hot) I'm thinking an extra 50 RPM of idle speed will fix this. 1250 is where my Rotax 990 V twin idles and it's never stalled like this. And unless the service manual says it's ok, I'm guessing it really should be done from the ECU, not the mechanical throttle stop.
 
 

[rick]

Well, this is from another group but it all sounds familiar - stumble/stall just as you pull away http://www.motorcycle-talk.net/forum/archive/index.php/t-160.html
 
Not ready to go this route, but note the 4th improvement on the list http://ecunleashed.com/2014-yamaha-fz-07-mt-09-performance-re-flash/\\
 
Yamaha will either fix this with a recall or someone will find something that will make it go away. Come spring (c'mon spring!), my vac gauges will go on the bike to check sync. If that doesn't fix it, when I have my battery cable replaced (the length is not an issue, but the dealer routed it so poorly, they turned the OE into an ugly pretzel) I'll ask them to check that the TPS is properly zeroed. Either of these along with a slow tick can cause the motor to cough when hot.

[valhalla]

Well, this is from another group but it all sounds familiar - stumble/stall just as you pull away http://www.motorcycle-talk.net/forum/archive/index.php/t-160.html 
Not ready to go this route, but note the 4th improvement on the list http://ecunleashed.com/2014-yamaha-fz-07-mt-09-performance-re-flash/\\
 
Yamaha will either fix this with a recall or someone will find something that will make it go away. Come spring (c'mon spring!), my vac gauges will go on the bike to check sync. If that doesn't fix it, when I have my battery cable replaced (the length is not an issue, but the dealer routed it so poorly, they turned the OE into an ugly pretzel) I'll ask them to check that the TPS is properly zeroed. Either of these along with a slow tick can cause the motor to cough when hot.

I agree that the 4th improvement (increasing idle RPM) on the list is the first and the most logical course of action to stop our super scramblers from stalling. I'm not looking forward to going that route, either. That leaves us with someone (such as yourself) to find something to make it go away. I doubt that Yamaha will issue a recall because apparently they just don't get it.