Stalling Issues?

[Guest Ralph]

It's becoming very well known and will start to hit sales
then they will get it, I think another 100 rpm on the
tick over would fix mine but with modern injection systems
what would be a 2 sec fix is now a trip to the dealer and
hope he as the kit and know how, such is progress.

[rick]

Sadly enough, the comment that Yamaha doesn't care can be heard on many other bike forums. I would suggest that with so many of these bikes stalling in traffic, it does become a safety issue that NHTSA might get involved with.
 
Went back and had a look at FLashtune-ECU site. My sticker shock at seeing the price of the cables was eased after my brain caught up with my eyes and I realized there was software in that kit. They don't mention being able to adjust idle speed or seeing the TPS, but I gotta believe it's in there.
 
Yamaha is using what they are calling ISC (Idle Speed Control) on this bike. That comes from Yamaha's own ads/specs. That tells me that even though the throttle stop is just a screw with a lock nut on it (and mine is not painted)I'm guessing it probably still should not be touched. Other than that, w/o something in print, we're all just guessing. There's a VW/Audi mechanic on the Aprilia forum who knows his sh-t. I'll shoot off a PM, maybe he'll have a more experienced guess.
 
Assuming the ECUs are all programmed the same (no reason to assume otherwise) the idle speed will also be set to 1200? RPM thereabouts. There will always be bike to bike variations with sensors(temp, O2, TPS, crank angle - on and on) , fuel pressure regulators, assembly of TBs, you name it. The last is why there are air screws in each TB to get balance correct at idle.
 
One of the odd things of adding air to a motor running a closed loop FI, is that the O2 sensor sees this and tells the ECU to squirt a bit more fuel. I doubt that the idle will change with this, but it might smooth out that off-idle cough we're experiencing.
 
There's a vac hose on the left side TB that disappears up under the tank. I'm (again) guessing this hose goes to the fuel pump regulator. This is pretty standard fair for FI systems http://www.howstuffinmycarworks.com/Fuel_pressure_regulator.html
 
Wish I knew if that left side screw is closed and not just "set". (if it's closed, it's sure easy to put back). Opening that left side screw just a bit more will lower manifold pressure a bit and this in turn will result in a fuel pressure bump at idle. Once the throttles are open, those air screws don't do much so the system goes back to normal. Letting more air in on the left side will also mean opening up the right TB screw a bit more as well. Again, richer mix at idle.
 
All this stuff is bandaids of course. Judging by how many bikes have a snatchy off idle response, it's apparently still hard to get it perfect (Triumph and BMW have apparently figured it out) Clearly, Yamaha is still working on it (the FJ09 sounds like it's far better the FZ09)
 
 
 
 

[valhalla]

It's becoming very well known and will start to hit sales then they will get it, I think another 100 rpm on the
tick over would fix mine but with modern injection systems
what would be a 2 sec fix is now a trip to the dealer and
hope he as the kit and know how, such is progress.

Interesting that you should mention the word "progress." Below is a list of words that are the [em]opposite[/em] of "progress". Especially note the last two words:   *check*decline*delay*falling back*falling off*relapse*retrogression*stay*stop*stoppage
"Stop" and "stoppage" describes exactly what is happening to [strong]most[/strong] FZ-07's currently in production. In other words, with regards to the FZ-07 fueling system what we got is the [em]exact opposite[/em] of "progress" (!!!)  
If only. If only we could rip out the entire system and replace the fukken computers, fuel injectors, throttle position sensors, O2 sensors, air temperature sensors, etc. etc. and replace them all with good ol' fashioned, smooth-running and dependable Mikuni carburetors!     
 

[mjh937]

I am not sure it is happening to most FZ-07's. It has not happened to me and quite a few others. And if con is the opposite of pro wouldn't congress be the opposite of progress ?

[valhalla]

All this stuff is bandaids of course. Judging by how many bikes have a snatchy off idle response, it's apparently still hard to get it perfect (Triumph and BMW have apparently figured it out) Clearly, Yamaha is still working on it (the FJ09 sounds like it's far better the FZ09)
 
 
 

My carbureted 2005 Yamaha FZ-1 ran great. Then in 2006 Yamaha fitted the new FZ-1 with fuel-injection and it was a well-known disaster not unlike the new 2014 FZ-09 with its equally as well-known (e.g: "twitchy") fueling issues. But that doesn't mean other manufacturers including Triumph and BMW have "cracked the code" either. Case in point, the BMW R1100 is known to suffer from untunable "surging" issues with its fuel injection system. And Triumph recently issued recalls for certain model year 2014-2015 Tigers, Thunderbirds and Bonnevilles due to ECU's that cause the engine to "lose power unexpectedly increasing the risk of a vehicle crash." No matter the ride, fuel injection ain't what it's cracked up to be.  
 

[rotaryryan24]

We had an unusually warm late december day here yesterday, so just had to take a ride. I managed to get to the last place where I'd have to stop before stalling the dang thing. Sheesh. It did almost stall one other time. Not sure if the last one was my fault, but the almost one was a studder step the bike did on its own. 
I don't always have the engine temp showing when I ride, but did yesterday. I noticed that there was a lot of quick fluctuation between 172 and 180 that just could not have been happening. When I got home, I popped the connector off of the temp sensor ( it's right in the middle of the cylinder back, between the throttle bodies) thinking that maybe the connection was a bit weak. I didn't go back out for a ride, but it seemed like the temp readings were more smooth afterward.
 
Of course, the weather has now gotten back to normal - meaning it's juat crap outside, so it'll be a while before aI can see if that resolved what I was watching yesterday.
 
But I have to wonder if the ECU was getting false temp info and that might have something to do with stalling at lights.
 
So, i'm curious if anyone else has noticed a temp fluctuation like this. At a constant speed, especially when it's only 50F out, that gauge should read a nice steady 172-ish F and not jump all obver the place.

 
 
This happens to me all the time, even under a load. In colder temps I've seen my bike drop down to 170 degrees before it climbs back up to 180.

[valhalla]

I am not sure it is happening to most FZ-07's.

Maybe [em]you[/em] aren't sure, but [em]I[/em] am:   http://fz07.org/thread/1467/stalling-issues-poll?page=2#ixzz3NdDstfuM
 
 

[rick]

 
This happens to me all the time, even under a load. In colder temps I've seen my bike drop down to 170 degrees before it climbs back up to 180.

Sure, I'd expect the temp to change upward/downward smoothly - even if you got stuck behind a big truck going uphill the temp will change. But what I saw was the temp flitting about - up and down way too quickly for the water temp to actually change. At a constant speed w/o much load, I was watching the temp jump from 172 to 182 and then back to 176, all in the span of 15 secs. It was all over the place. There's no way the water temp in the motor is gonna fluctuate like this.  
And that sensor sees water in the motor, not the radiator. (My Futura has a sender in each cyl. The front one feeds the dash panel and the back tells the ecu. I suspect there's an air temp sensor hidden somewhere as well. 
 
I don't think my temp gauge did this when new and it never stalled when new either! Unfortunately, It's gonna be a while before I can see if resetting that connector had any effect - winter sucks if skiing is not on the list. 
 
Owning an Italian bike for 12 years and being used to dealing with wonky electrics makes me a bit (overly)sensitive to stuff like this. . 
 
Yeah, the R1100s were terrible with surging issues. We're talking almost 20 years ago and BMW fixed that with 2 plugs/cyl, not by changing the FI. My Aprilia also has 2 plugs per pot and never, ever serges (or stalls for that matter)It does have a bit abruptness to the throttle which was smoothed out with a 3rd factory mapping. But then, so does my Subaru. Like I said, with closed throttle plates at idle, the transition is always difficult to get perfect. 
 
Take a test ride on a new Striple. The fueling is pretty much perfect and has been for a long time. The fueling on the Bonneville, yeah, not so much. But it's air cooled and a big twin. Both of these things make it all more difficult. The Bonneville will soon be water cooled and I'll bet most of those fueling issues with be resolved.  
 
As for you guys who want to go back to carbs, sheesh. I thought I was old. lol. It's not an answer and not even practical (or possible). Fuel mileage will decrease, HP will decrease, all the while adding more pollutants to the world.  I have a buddy's 1989, 750 Gixxer in the garage that's sat too long and will need it's set of dinosaurs removed for unplugging. 
 
This is my 3rd fuel injected bike. Overall, I'm pretty happy with how it goes about. Actually, the monster engine braking (entertaining at 1st) bugs me more than the stalling issue. Other than that, I'd not change a thing.
 
I'm gonna be optimistic and suggest this will be an easy fix. OK, some shop monkeys (opposed thumbs and he ability to squeeze the trigger on an air wrench being the only requisite for many of them) will be too challenged. But it will get fixed and this conversation, right along with carbetators, will disappear. 
 
 
 
  

[mjh937]

I am not sure it is happening to most FZ-07's.

Maybe [em]you[/em] aren't sure, but [em]I[/em] am:   http://fz07.org/thread/1467/stalling-issues-poll?page=2#ixzz3NdDstfuM
 

Okay. I will concede that point, but still 40% of us are not having a problem. I wonder what the common thread is?  Elevation, temperature or something else. It seems like there must be something in common with those of us who are and are not having the problem. I am not sure if there is a good way to try and figure that out though. 

[Guest Ralph]

You are only supposed to adjust the right TPS side of the throttle body's,
adjusting the throttle stop will result in the ecu closing the air bleeds
and so pull the idle speed back down, if you want to experiment try a shim
of some sort under the screw for the same effect and see what happens.
 
Mine did not cut out for the first 200 miles it then cut about 3 times in a few
miles then after another  100 miles twice in about 10 miles it then had it's
600 mile service and did not cut again for 800 miles did it twice in a few miles then
not again for about 1200 miles then twice again coming home from the dealers
after the battery lead mod, just a thought wonder if the ecu is adaptive and
taking the lead off cleared the memory and it now as to re learn.
got a service manual coming soon so I may learn something,  one thing  I have
found is that pulling in the clutch retards the timing a bit so those that say it
cuts as they pull in the clutch could have something but mine cuts just as I
open the throttle.
 
Ho the vac pipe on the right throttle body goes to a unit under the right of the
tank called a fuel shut off valve from the a pipe goes to a small tank likely a vac
anti surge tank and also back to a vac operated flap in the air box but at least
some US bikes don't have this but the UK ones like mine do, it is to cut down
intake noise at certain revs/throttle openings if yours as it you will see a silver
round actuator with a rubber pipe on the back of the air box and the intake is
turned through 180 % it's just in front of the battery.

[rick]

You are only supposed to adjust the right TPS side of the throttle body's, adjusting the throttle stop will result in the ecu closing the air bleeds
and so pull the idle speed back down, if you want to experiment try a shim
of some sort under the screw for the same effect and see what happens.

that would be easy enough to do. Maybe just a piece of tape would be enough. Unfortunately, that might make cold start-ups more difficult. No argument from me, increasing the idle really does need to be done in the mapping. 
 
So this thing has a basic IAC that Yamaha's just given its own name? Is it in/on the airbox? There would also have to be hoses (usually pretty big diameter) going from there to downstream of the TBs.
 
I realize the left side is the reference. Do you know, is that left air screw closed to its stop? That's how sorta how it works on my Aprilia - one screw or the other (seems to vary from bike to bike) is kept closed and the other is used for balancing whatever manufacturing differences there are. 

[Guest Ralph]

I may know more once I get a look at the service manual.

[rick]

I'm guessing this is the IAC, [HASH]5 here http://www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/yam/53a99b05f8700220a4415832/intake-2 They call it a "stepper motor" (common lingo for this thing) and it sits right between the 2 throttle bores downstream of throttle plates. When activated, it likely opens a port that lets air bypass the throttles. The fast idle when the motor is cold is regulated by this thing and it helps regulate the closed throttle hot idle as well. Along with hearing the fuel pump pressurize when the key is turned on, this little stepper motor should also make an audible sound when it cycles into start-up mode.
 
Came across the manual for an FI-ed Yamaha ATV where the TPS was set by rotating it to obtain a specified voltage with the throttle closed. If that's the case here, at least it's one thing we can easily check and correct if necessary. The TPS is on the outside of the right cyl TB. If it's mounting holes are not just holes, but slots, well -
 
A service manual is sure gonna come in handy.
 
 

[valhalla]

Jan 2, 2015 11:34:01 GMT -5 rick said:
[snipped for brevity]
>>Take a test ride on a new Striple. The fueling is pretty much perfect and has been for a long time.<<
I don't doubt it, Rick. My 2003 (100th Year Anniversary Edition) Harley FLSTF fuel injection was dead nuts on, too. So I know it can and has been done, but unfortunately Yamaha et. al. haven't yet figured out how to do it with any degree of [em]consistency.[/em]            
 
>>As for you guys who want to go back to carbs, sheesh. I thought I was old. lol. It's not an answer and not even practical (or possible).<<
Agreed. I was only being facetious when I said that I'd like to rip out the whole system and replace it with carburetors. Considering how dangerous it is when your engine stops at the most inopportune times I probably shouldn't have been quite so flippant.As far as age is concerned, you know that one of the first fuel injected mass produced motorcycles was the mighty Kawasaki KZ1000 that first came out about 35 years ago. That's older than most on this here happy group assembled of FZ-07 owners (the largest group of riders belonging to the 26-35 year old age group). Considering that fuel injected engines of all types and sizes have been manufactured all over the world for many decades, putting together a [em]reliable[/em] fuel injected engine -- one that won't stop dead in its tracks in the middle of a busy intersection -- ain't exactly a new concept.  
>>This is my 3rd fuel injected bike. Overall, I'm pretty happy with how it goes about.<<
Agreed. I don't fondly call my 07 "super scrambler" for nothing. When it comes to pure joy, it's head and shoulders above any other motorcycle I've owned. But having said that, the seriousness of the stalling issue cannot be overstated. We haven't heard of any documented cases of injury and/or death caused by the engine suddenly stopping simply because the FZ-07 is still such a newcomer to the world of motorcycling. Those who think the engine quits due to "operator technique" or think that the problem doesn't exist does so at their own peril.      >>Actually, the monster engine braking (entertaining at 1st) bugs me more than the stalling issue.<<
I'm sorry but I have to disagree on this one. That powerful 07 'jake' brake can actually be modulated precisely via the clutch, throttle, and proper gear selection. The only drawback that I can think of at this time is worrying about some texting cager behind me who doesn't realize just how quickly and efficiently I'm decelerating -- all the while without my brake lights coming on!     
>>Other than that, I'd not change a thing.<<
Other than the engine stalling, I'd not a change a thing. (Well, maybe I'd change the seat to make it more like one of those comfy looking German seats that baraban has.) In fact, I researched the 07 online three or four months ago prior to buying one and was aware that some riders were complaining about the engine stalling. After weighing the pros and cons, I bought one anyways and would do so again.     
 
>>I'm gonna be optimistic and suggest this will be an easy fix. OK, some shop monkeys (opposed thumbs and he ability to squeeze the trigger on an air wrench being the only requisite for many of them) will be too challenged. But it will get fixed and this conversation, right along with carbetators, will disappear. <<
I'm afraid that I don't share your optimism and think it's gonna take something a bit more complex and expensive like a power commander + throttle body sync + dyno tune and AIS removal. But I'll be more than ecstatic if you prove me wrong.    
 
 
 

[Guest Ralph]

The isc Yamaha for Idle speed control is the unit on top of the throttle body in the middle,
it seem to be controlled by a electro magnet and vibrates when operating, it or the ecu appears
to be the type that learns over time so that could be why mine cut out after the new battery
lead had been fitted and had not done so for over 800 miles, if is it needs to get on with learning
a bit faster,

[rick]

The isc Yamaha for Idle speed control is the unit on top of the throttle body in the middle, it seem to be controlled by a electro magnet and vibrates when operating, it or the ecu appears
to be the type that learns over time so that could be why mine cut out after the new battery
lead had been fitted and had not done so for over 800 miles, if is it needs to get on with learning
a bit faster,

Depending on the FI system used, the fuel trims can be "learned" over time based on what the O2 sensor sees. And maybe that's what's really changing with some of the bikes that no longer stall after some miles have been racked up. Might take a little time for the new to wear off - maybe someone at the factory went a little overboard with the special antiseize that's used when those sensors are bolted in.  
Yep, just like the pict in that link I posted. My Aprilia's is under the airbox and there are hoses going from it to the bases of the TBs. Under the tank of that bike is a maze of hoses, all waiting to get brittle and leak. lol. This is actually a far cleaner way. 
 
As for that stepper motor driven IAC, (aka ISC) they are usually little electronic motors that drive rack and pinion set-ups so that they can be variable to match needs - like temps, or altitude, etc. I'd be surprised if it was a solenoid - with 2 positions activated and not.  . 
 
 
 

[rick]

Jan 2, 2015 11:34:01 GMT -5 rick said: [snipped for brevity]
>>Take a test ride on a new Striple. The fueling is pretty much perfect and has been for a long time.<<
I don't doubt it, Rick. My 2003 (100th Year Anniversary Edition) Harley FLSTF fuel injection was dead nuts on, too. So I know it can and has been done, but unfortunately Yamaha et. al. haven't yet figured out how to do it with any degree of [em]consistency.[/em]            
 
>>As for you guys who want to go back to carbs, sheesh. I thought I was old. lol. It's not an answer and not even practical (or possible).<<
Agreed. I was only being facetious when I said that I'd like to rip out the whole system and replace it with carburetors. Considering how dangerous it is when your engine stops at the most inopportune times I probably shouldn't have been quite so flippant.As far as age is concerned, you know that one of the first fuel injected mass produced motorcycles was the mighty Kawasaki KZ1000 that first came out about 35 years ago. That's older than most on this here happy group assembled of FZ-07 owners (the largest group of riders belonging to the 26-35 year old age group). Considering that fuel injected engines of all types and sizes have been manufactured all over the world for many decades, putting together a [em]reliable[/em] fuel injected engine -- one that won't stop dead in its tracks in the middle of a busy intersection -- ain't exactly a new concept.  
>>This is my 3rd fuel injected bike. Overall, I'm pretty happy with how it goes about.<<
Agreed. I don't fondly call my 07 "super scrambler" for nothing. When it comes to pure joy, it's head and shoulders above any other motorcycle I've owned. But having said that, the seriousness of the stalling issue cannot be overstated. We haven't heard of any documented cases of injury and/or death caused by the engine suddenly stopping simply because the FZ-07 is still such a newcomer to the world of motorcycling. Those who think the engine quits due to "operator technique" or think that the problem doesn't exist does so at their own peril.      >>Actually, the monster engine braking (entertaining at 1st) bugs me more than the stalling issue.<<
I'm sorry but I have to disagree on this one. That powerful 07 'jake' brake can actually be modulated precisely via the clutch, throttle, and proper gear selection. The only drawback that I can think of at this time is worrying about some texting cager behind me who doesn't realize just how quickly and efficiently I'm decelerating -- all the while without my brake lights coming on!     
>>Other than that, I'd not change a thing.<<
Other than the engine stalling, I'd not a change a thing. (Well, maybe I'd change the seat to make it more like one of those comfy looking German seats that baraban has.) In fact, I researched the 07 online three or four months ago prior to buying one and was aware that some riders were complaining about the engine stalling. After weighing the pros and cons, I bought one anyways and would do so again.     
 
>>I'm gonna be optimistic and suggest this will be an easy fix. OK, some shop monkeys (opposed thumbs and he ability to squeeze the trigger on an air wrench being the only requisite for many of them) will be too challenged. But it will get fixed and this conversation, right along with carbetators, will disappear. <<
I'm afraid that I don't share your optimism and think it's gonna take something a bit more complex and expensive like a power commander + throttle body sync + dyno tune and AIS removal. But I'll be more than ecstatic if you prove me wrong.    
 
 

Sheesh, the seat. My Futura has one of the most comfortable saddles ever put on any motorcycle. The FZ's has little sharp edges in the foam right where they cut into the backs of my legs. I've already added a pad made from wetsuit material. It helps, but I see new foam in my future for that one.  
So, yeah, "not changing much" was really just about the FI. I have 3 more farkles on order from Twisted Throttle. Change is good. 
 
The friend who's Gixxer is taking up room in my garage also owns a 2009 KTM Duke (his favorite of 4 bikes). For the 1st 2 years he owned it, he threatened to find a carb from one of the earlier ones. The FI on that bike when new was far from perfect. That bike has a separate ECU/stepper just to drive the throttle plate. It was real snatchy off idle and had lots of stalling issues if he tried to launch it w/o giving enough throttle (sound familiar?). Well, needless to say, it's far from stock now. Tune ECU maps, a new pipe, some serious plumbing removal and loads of other expensive bits later and it's now pretty darn good.
 
Can't wait to get another 500 miles on my motor and put the FZ side-by-side with that Duke. The FZ makes a bit more power, but it's also about 50 lbs heavier. The part where I'm in trouble - the Duke has top notch suspension bits, strong brakes, and is ridden by someone who used to play on a TZ125 for weekend fun. He's also now running Supermoto (read light and sticky) tires now as well. I expect to see his tail light a bunch  (ok, hope to still see it)
 
Who knows why some of these companies can't get it right. BMW never ever admitted their final drives were breaking with regularity for decades. Likely it's about time and money - their time, their money. This FI system is so close to being right, I think it won't take much to fix. A dealer with a competent service manager, who really wants your long term business, would listen w/o patronizing, and then charge maybe 50 bucks to check the actual idle speed and maybe change it with their diagnostics toy. I'm less optimistic in finding such a shop. 
 
So, we'll see. Right now, have freezing rain w/highways closed due to accidents everywhere. The bikes are sleeping 
 
 
 

[scobiwonkenobi]

Ok so personal experience with the stalling issue was this: first week it stalled all over the place. Partially to blame was that I was not used to the clutch at all however upon investigating the clutch switch was not plugged in all the way (two wires under the clutch). A few other things I noticed is that it only happened during break in (factory advised method). The idle stopped dropping low and stalling after break in and first oil change. Seems to just the bike breaking in. Throttle bodies needed only minor adjustment at first service. Is anyone still experiencing weird stalling after first service?
 
Thanks!

[rick]

I did an oil/filter change at 550 miles. (Easiest oil/filter change I've ever done) Used Yamahooeylube and the OE filter. At a bit over 700 miles, during my last ride, it almost stalled once (coughed before I started to let the clutch out) and then it really did stall.
 
Will check that clutch interlock connector - as well as pretty much every connector can get my hands on after it warms up some - one of these months. A faulty clutch switch will likely keep the starter motor from spinning with the tranny in gear. but I don't really see how it would cause the bike to stall. The sidestand switch is a more likely candidate.

[scobiwonkenobi]

Well rick that is indeed concerning and I'm sorry to hear that. I'll scour the web and see what can be found. If it happens again and it is safe to do so, record what temp the engine is reading, if it's during a gear change or regular in riding. It would make sense that if the sidestand switch is shorting or sending a false positive it would kill the motor though. Go with your gut and let us know what you find!
 
Best of luck!

[rick]

Well rick that is indeed concerning and I'm sorry to hear that. I'll scour the web and see what can be found. If it happens again and it is safe to do so, record what temp the engine is reading, if it's during a gear change or regular in riding. It would make sense that if the sidestand switch is shorting or sending a false positive it would kill the motor though. Go with your gut and let us know what you find!  
Best of luck!

It's 0F outside today and I shoveled 3" (>4" is when the thrower is fired up) of snow from my 80ft long driveway last nite so I'd not have to trudge out to the car in that snow today. So, my gut will be focused on just staying warm. The bikes are covered and plugged in, sadly, for some time to come. In my next life, my next garage (4 car spaces) will be heated. May as well dream big! lol.  
I think maybe it's time to email NHTSA and cc those emails to Yamaha. Maybe even post up a couple links from the complaints from  around the world on different forums. I may make it to the Cleveland bike show. Might just bend a Yamaha ear there as well. 
 
This is clearly a problem that can't be passed off on newbies with their first bike/clutch. Unfortunately, my experience with Aprilia being forced to replace, under recall, fragile quick disconnects in the fuel lines only resulted in that being done in the States. There were bikes destroyed by fire in Europe years after most of us had replaced the plastic bits with metal.
 
Whether it'll be an update in the ECU (my Aprilia had 3 in 4 years. Heck, my Subaru has had 3 ECU udates) or maybe a wonky temp sensor, this should be an easy fix. Guess it's possible that once the motor has loosened up this will go away. But I'm thinking this would be just wishful. My next oil change will be in another 500 miles or so and will be full synthetic. All I expect to learn from that will be seeing the metal spooge that the filter doesn't trap, but the magnetic drain plug i put in does.  
 
Hopefully, Yamaha will want it's current sales success to continue and will get off the stick w/o us hollering.  
 
Stay warm

[rewplayff]

I just wanted to add my experience to the pool. My specific stalling issue I was able to reproduce after a while. I would get it when i would blip the throttle to downshift, starting at a light, or just giving it a quick twist with the clutch in waiting at a light (old habit). I noticed with the clutch in or in neutral, if you flick the throttle fast enough there would be a dead spot, trying to roll on that is instant deadness.
 
My fix, ymmv, I see different issues reading through this;
It was hesitating the morning I rode it to work, at lunch I checked my clutch switch and it wasn't plugged in. The night I rode it home it was absolutely gone. I can still recreate the problem if i let out the clutch just before it engages and give it some throttle. Now I don't know how it correlates to eachother, It might be a crazy coincidence but its definitely not just in my mind. Although I don't like that deadspot, at least now i'm not a nervous wreck.

[Guest Ralph]

The clutch switch makes a difference because when pulled it the ecu retards the timing by a few degrees,
synchronising the throttle body's getting then dead on helps, was in the dealer yesterday and was told that
they had some other complaints as well as mine and they had a bike coming in next week for a thorough examination
and if I call back in a week or two they would let me know what if anything they find.

[magsz18]

Damnit...
 
Ok guys, im a new rider so i will preface this with that disclaimer.
 
I just experienced a weird stall.
 
My bike has 2168 miles on it.
 
I was entering my development and my bike stalled out on me.
 
I was coming from fifth gear to fourth, to third. I was in third doing 22 miles an hour with the clutch pulled in. Note, i am NOT good at downshifting/rev matching. The clutch was in, i was about to blip the throttle to increase my rpm and let out the clutch when the bike just died.
 
Did i do something wrong? I was under the impression that you could be in a billionth gear (sarcasm) with the clutch pulled in and the engine should still run...
 
I DO have pazzo levers installed but my clutch is set with 5mm's of free play according to the manual.

[she3pdog]

My bike did something similar to what's described here two or three times in the first 600 miles. It's about to go in for it's second service at 3900 miles and it hasn't happened since maybe my first two or three weeks of ownership. Admittedly, this was my first bike, and I stalled it several dozen times in that time frame, but those few stalls did not seem like my fault. One of them was while I was at a dead stand still, the other one or two were while I was shifting from 1st to 2nd gear (and turning! I realized what happened quickly enough to restart the bike and not go down though).