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Paulie's FZ-07 SP: MotoGP Edition


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alexrichardson

Paulieeeee I've spent so much time looking into slipper clutches but can't find shit all, would have to be fully custom I'm guessing.
 
Also Ive got my first track day this coming Monday (5th October) soooo keen
Will hopefully make a thread on my bike after that

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Paulieeeee I've spent so much time looking into slipper clutches but can't find shet all, would have to be fully custom I'm guessing. 
Also Ive got my first track day this coming Monday (5th October) soooo keen
Will hopefully make a thread on my bike after that
I'd love to see a thread on your bike! 
And congrats on the track day!  I think you're gonna be pleasantly surprised with how the bike does.
 
Definitely report back and let us know how it goes :)
 
- Paulie
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Paulieeeee I've spent so much time looking into slipper clutches but can't find shet all, would have to be fully custom I'm guessing. 
Also Ive got my first track day this coming Monday (5th October) soooo keen
Will hopefully make a thread on my bike after that
Yoyodyneti
is working on a slipper clutch for the fz07
they're testing this week or next with production to follow...
this courtesy of ap motoarts and a cs rep from yoyodyneti

ATGATT... ATTATT, two acronyms I live by.
 

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Sweet! I heard something about AP Motoarts possibly doing something, but it was a long time ago...
 
- Paulie

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Do you feel it really needs a Slipper? The ecu seems to have the same trick my BMW used with the low throttle openings ( even though it only has one butterfly) that seemed to mitigate the wheel hop on agressive downshifts. I needed a slipper on my ER6 on the track but this seems to bypass the wheel hop problem despite the 90/270 crank. Would be nice to have one though for the wet.
Fantastically useful video for analyzing you riding. One thing that may be worth a try. Your head is staying over or even on the wrong side of the centreline of the bike in corners. You might be able to carry a bit more speed in and out of the corner if you move you head down and forward to the inside. That will also keep the bike a bit more upright and allow later and firmer braking and earlier exit throttle. Probably translate to closer apecies as well .
I wish I had had videos like this when I was racing. It would have been much easier and quicker to sort out my riding. No coaches where I lived. I had to learn by trial and error and the odd photograph.
 

Go forth and modify my son...go forth and modify...

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One of the coaches advised those wishing to "go fast" to actually keep the butt planted in the seat and just practice moving the entire shoulders and head over the side of the bike in the direction of the turn. He said, (I agree) people fixate so much on moving the butt over that they screw everything else up. Stay low and put your helmet on the outside of the windscreen, maybe even touching it about 10/2 o'clock and get the elbows out so you you can
 
1) relax your grip
2) turn the throttle smoothly.

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Do you feel it really needs a Slipper?
 
I don't think so...
 
It'd be cool to have, but I'd rather get to the point where I'm better at rev matching than have an "aid". I think I'll learn more doing it the old fashion way :)
 
 
 

 
 
Fantastically useful video for analyzing you riding. One thing that may be worth a try. Your head is staying over or even on the wrong side of the centreline of the bike in corners. You might be able to carry a bit more speed in and out of the corner if you move you head down and forward to the inside. That will also keep the bike a bit more upright and allow later and firmer braking and earlier exit throttle. Probably translate to closer apecies as well .
I wish I had had videos like this when I was racing. It would have been much easier and quicker to sort out my riding. No coaches where I lived. I had to learn by trial and error and the odd photograph.

 
I appreciate the feedback! Just re-watched that vid and yep, I can see exactly what your taking about. "Kiss your mirrors" is what I was always taught, but for sure in the vid I'm not really doing that. On previous track days, there are times I get it spot on, but it seems I'm not consistent with my positioning. I think the ergo's of the bike have some to do with it too. When I look at guys going fast on say a KTM Superduke 1290, their position is more straight up than it is Jorge Lorenzo if ya know what I mean. I've found the supersport bikes like the R1, R6 etc. put you in a better starting position more suited for elbow-down type of riding than most naked bikes.
 
I'll be at Spring Mountain this whole weekend, so I'll look to improve my positioning and see what I can do :)
 
Thanks again for the feedback!
 
:)
 
- Paulie
 
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If you have a desire to improve your riding good video is just so useful. Especially from different angles. We all suffer from a "perceived " position rather and an objective one. The camera does lie and mislead, but with enough perspective vectors you get closer to the truth. A trick I learnt from triathlon coaching is to be able to view the videos from different time bases as well. You see different things at different time expansion/compressions. A still can pick up things a real time frame rate won't. As a slowed or even faster ( good for picking faults in flow) rate will reveal stuff you won't otherwise see.
My feelings on the rider position on this bike are similiar to yours. The bike tends to force you more upright motard style. The shortness and rear weight bias doesn't help. If you are on the track with this bike I reckon the following is worth experimenting with. I am assuming you have upgraded you front and rear suspension to suit the riding involved.
Lower bars and over the top bar clamps to get you more load on the front and more cockpit room. It would also allow you to lean more forward and have less windage. For the track I would go the Woodcraft bolt on "clip-ons". Be warned you may develop an unhealthy desire for Woodcraft stuff. Get rid of the rubber bar clamp mounts. You will be surprised how you gain a bit more steering confidence with a bit more front end feel.
When you get the bars on you will notice that the pegs are now too far forwards ( and possibly too low). Getting the pegs in the right place will help you with being able to weight shift a bit more and open your diaphragm to allow easier breathing, which in turn will allow you to relax more in high load areas of the track. If nothing else get rid of the rubber mounts on the peg plates and solid mount them. Same effect as the bar mount rubbers.
Make a foam hard seat pad. thinner than the stock seat. You will need to find the right friction surface for you leathers that gives the nice balance of slide and grip. While you are in the area some tank knee grippers . They help reduce fatigue by reducing the amount of load you have to put on your upper legs.
Remember to breath long, slowly and into your abdomen and relax your shoulders. It will make you less rigid on the bike. Make sure you are not curling your toes downwardsas it stiffens you legs AND lower arms. Yes I know that sounds weird but if you find you are not able to get on the gas early enough, curl you toes upwards before the corner...honest.
 
Oh yeah and have fun...I am so jealous as I now live where there is no track for hundreds of kilometers.
A thinner seat pad

Go forth and modify my son...go forth and modify...

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Oh yeah. What size rear tyre are you using. I have a feeling that a 170/60 will work way better on this bike than the 180/55. To be honest I would put a good 160/60 on if it would fit, but the rim is too big. I know that there are a few slicks for motards that are 160/65 that would be worth a try but the rim is again probably going to stuff that.

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Go forth and modify my son...go forth and modify...

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@gregjet,
 
Thanks for the tips my friend! I already have bars, rearsets, and tank grips. As far as suspension goes, I have Traxxion Dynamics AK-20 cartridges and a Penske triple clicker out back with remote reservoir. I'm running Dunlop Q'3 also, but in the stock size...
 
- Paulie

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Personally not a fan or Dunlops ( though I have not used any of the qualifiers). They tend to had harsh feedback for my liking. Michies and a 170/60 would be worth a try. The lower profile 180 is fine on something with over 100hp, but you can't get it sliding with this amount of HP so you have to lean and grip, and so the profile swears at you. Might be worth a 120/60 on the front at least it would match the rear a bit closer.
BT003R maybe.
Metzler racetec.
Maxxis motard slicks ( 165/65?).
My opinion is that this bike lightened down for the track will be a bit of a chore to get the tyres even close to right. It's light for the HP, short wheelbase, and rear weight biased stock with a ridiculously wide rear rim. Pattonme reckons it is short trailed (i haven't measured it).
I hope you find a good combination. This bike is worth it. Have fun.

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Go forth and modify my son...go forth and modify...

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alexrichardson

Track day was yesterday, will make a thread eventually with build and track day thoughts, bike felt amazing! i was at the smsp south circuit track in eastern creek, Sydney. Managed to scrape my side stand several times haha very scary and off putting. will include pics with the thread when i make it.
 
On a sader note, another 07 rider in the same class as me cut in from outside of me on a hairpin and completly washed the front wheel out and came off the bike. Bike is okay, just need a new clutch lever and rear set (secret brand ;) ) and shell be back. Crash protection did its job!. sadly gonna have to buy some new leathers though hahaha
will make post when i get time.

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alexrichardson

also with the talk about tyres i had the pirelli rosso corsa's, in stock tyre size, holy fuck they were amazing. again i will include photos later :)
 

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Here in USA if you want the Maxxis motard slick, you'll have to get them from me. I think I bought them all. ;)

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Thanks for the feedback guys! @gregjet, a buddy of mine wants me to get a spare set of wheels and put a set of Pirelli Superbike Pro slicks on them for track days only of course. He said the grip is better than the Dunlop Q'3 and last 2-3 times as long. Track day folks say they are a great track day tire, and racers say they are good endurance tires...
 
You have any experience with those?
 
Oh, and Alex, congrats on the track day!  Can't wait to see your postings :)
 
- Paulie

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If you're categorized as advanced intermediate or racer for track days, then sure do the slicks. Otherwise I'd stick to the Q3 or similar dual-use tire. Unless the bike is just going to be ridden at the track in which case forget the spare rims, just put the slicks on it and be done.
 

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The organization I usually participate in, Track Xperience, has a three group format.
 
Level 1 is for beginners and novices
Level 2 is for fast street guys
Level 3 is for racers...most of which hold some sort of racing license.
 
When I started, of course I was in level 1, and attended their mandatory (free) New Riders School. The next day, I was bumped up to Level 2. Three track days later spread out over a few months, my lap times on the Q3 street tires were comparable with the back of the pack of the level 3 riders on slicks.
 
That's what sorta got me thinking about trying out the Pirelli Superbike Pro's. But until I get a spare set of wheels or make this a dedicated track bike I'm thinking I'll prob hold off. I've been thinking about getting a supersport dedicated for track days but I just dunno...I'm having SO MUCH FUN on the FZ-07 it's not even funny.
 
In the meantime, the slicks on the FZ-07 could be quite fun. We'll see. I'd like to try level 3 but I'd like to be "invited" first. Figured I'd finish the rest of the season in level 2, then when I start going next year ask one of the control riders/instructions to follow me and give me some feedback. If they think I'm ready for level 3 and suggest it than I'll try it out.
 
The level 3 guys on my last track day were pretty fast. I was comparable to the slower guys in level 3 last time out, but the fast guys in that group were 5-6 seconds faster...plus they were all on bikes with dedicated slicks, and had at least 50-100 more hp so they'd leave me on the straights. Only reason I want to try level 3 is because they are usually more experienced, and very predictable.
 
Sometimes there is such a wide spread of experience in level 2 people are all over the place and it can become a handful.
 
:)
 
- Paulie

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I still think the rear will be overtyred. The rear will stick while the front slides. If you can get a used 170/60 I reckon give it a try. It should be lighter as well and will spin up faster. Also easier to warm up and keep at temperature. This bike just isn't heavy enough nor have enough power to warm a 180/55 properly. Even on Aussie tracks. You would have to run them a really low pressures to get them to warm then they would overheat. My opinion anyway. Honestly the correct size for this weight and power is a 160 which you can't even fit ( easily). The LAMS bike should only have a 140 or 150.
Take your sidestand off. At the bracket bolts. It can't dig in then. Mine were really difficult to get off. Half a bottle of stud lock on them I reckon...
 

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Go forth and modify my son...go forth and modify...

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Hey everyone, last track day of the season is this weekend, and I wanted to try some new bits...
 
1RjIbwOh.jpg
 
qxQrFQUh.jpg
 
HWZD2d8h.jpg
 
4DBnUahh.jpg
 
 
 
Woodcraft clip-on style bars installed with 1.5" risers in the down position, Woodcraft bar end sliders, Domino XM2 grips, Driven Racing TT rearsets, and made the switch from Dunlop Q3's to Pirelli SuperCorsa SP's.
 
My thoughts and more pics after the trackday wekend...
 
For now though, just wanted to say Happy Thanksgiving to everyone :)
 
- Paulie
 
 
 

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I watched you videos a few times ( tears in eyes....miss the track so much). Listening to you engine I have changed my mind about the slipper. I think a slipper and better brakes will get you deeper into the corner. The motor is doing what a SV650 does ( not surprisingly gonsider the crank angle/torque reaction is the same).
My thoughts are : slipper clutch set up with a relatively low break away. And improve the brakes. Ride it more like a two stroke. Use your brakes for braking, not finiky engine braking. The MT doesn't sound like it is happy with the wheels turning the engine . Also a huge improvement if you are riding on a wet track.
Brakes: Have you got decent brake braided brake lines ( improve feel immensely . The std lines on the MT are just aweful spongey things). AND IF they make them to fit the the MT, see if you can get a hold of Bendix carbon brake pads. They are only useful on the track ( look em up ) but once you bed them in PROPERLY, they are a complete revelation. Bendix makes a new "titanium coated" pad which may be worth a look but I haven't tried them , only heard about them. The improvement is in BOTH power and modulation to an extent that you will wonder why brakes aren't all like this.
I am Sooooo jealous.
You are still missing a lot of apecies... But your smooth riding style helps a lot. Clean as a whistle.
On a completely irrelevant note. The R1 sounds like tin compared to the " gutless" little MT07...
 

Go forth and modify my son...go forth and modify...

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technology is great and all but right now the lap times will be dramatically improved by better riding. Lots of 'dead' space where you're 'coasting' instead of on the throttle and then transitioning to brake. But this will come with practice and tutoring. That said, please don't think banzai'ing into corners and standing on the brakes at the last possible moment is how you go faster. It's not. I don't remember who said it. But to go fast, "use less brake".
 

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@gregjet, yes, I have SS lines, and upgraded front pads. As far as missing a lot of apexes, I agree with @pattonme, in that at this point in time the most gains will come with better riding.
 
This is only the first season for me doing track days, and in about 5 weekends, my lap times improved enough to be at the back of the pack in the fastest group last time out - and I'm still on street tires.
 
As you guys pointed out, I still have so much to learn...my body positioning, closer apexes, less dead time between throttle and brake, etc.
 
Which is why I've decided NOT to get an R1 in the spring, and instead, make the move to race tires, and see what my potential can be.
 
I made the switch to the Pirelli SuperCorsa SP street tire for this reason. The profile is much different, much pointier than the rounded Dunlop Q3. The carcass is much more compliant than the Dunlop as well. Since I've never ridden or even seen Chuckwalla racetrack, I figured I'd use this last track day weekend getting used to the Pirelli's and the different profile before I make the switch to Pirelli DOT race rubber next season, as the construction and profile is similar.
 
I'll try and get some good video to help analyze my riding, but I'm also going to be learning a new track so my expectations aren't too high :)
 
Thanks again to you guys for the feedback...gives me something tangible to srive for :)
 
-Paulie
 
 
 
II

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jeffkisthename

All I know is, your bike was the first FZ-07 build that I saw, and has been a huge inspiration. Keep on doing what you do Paulie.

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Hey everyone, last track day of the season is this weekend, and I wanted to try some new bits...
 
1RjIbwOh.jpg
 
qxQrFQUh.jpg
 
HWZD2d8h.jpg
 
4DBnUahh.jpg
 
 
 
Woodcraft clip-on style bars installed with 1.5" risers in the down position, Woodcraft bar end sliders, Domino XM2 grips, Driven Racing TT rearsets, and made the switch from Dunlop Q3's to Pirelli SuperCorsa SP's.
 
My thoughts and more pics after the trackday wekend...
 
For now though, just wanted to say Happy Thanksgiving to everyone :)
 
- Paulie
 
 

 
 
 
Domino my Fav grips by far.
What chain and sprocket you run? 525?
Or 520 conversion? Any gear change?
 
 

Honda Grom
CB 350

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