Premium Member fzonly1 Posted November 9, 2015 Author Premium Member Share Posted November 9, 2015 @rick I'm talking Bout part (20). As for a top out spring I don't see one. Only a rebound spring. (13) Rebound spring and Topout spring are one in the same, Just a different description. Terry Nice. Thank you. As for end stroke (hydro stop ?) no idea what that is. I'm learning as I go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member fzonly1 Posted November 9, 2015 Author Premium Member Share Posted November 9, 2015 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member norwest Posted November 9, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted November 9, 2015 Rebound spring and Topout spring are one in the same, Just a different description. Terry Nice. Thank you. As for end stroke (hydro stop ?) no idea what that is. I'm learning as I go. It is basically a position sensitive damping circuit to prevent an abrupt bottom out that may cause damage. Terry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member rowdy Posted November 9, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted November 9, 2015 Nice. Thank you. As for end stroke (hydro stop ?) no idea what that is. I'm learning as I go. It is basically a position sensitive damping circuit to prevent an abrupt bottom out that may cause damage. Terry So did you have to pull out #19 and #20, or did you just leave them in there? Why can't left turners see us? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member fzonly1 Posted November 9, 2015 Author Premium Member Share Posted November 9, 2015 It is basically a position sensitive damping circuit to prevent an abrupt bottom out that may cause damage. Terry So did you have to pull out #19 and #20, or did you just leave them in there? Those stayed in. Hope that's correct. I still need to torque the cap and make sure the damper rod bolt is torqued as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member norwest Posted November 9, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted November 9, 2015 Is there a image of the cartridges without the protective wrapping on them? Did Matris say to leave the stock hydro stop installed? How about the stock topout spring? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member fzonly1 Posted November 9, 2015 Author Premium Member Share Posted November 9, 2015 Is there a image of the cartridges without the protective wrapping on them? Did Matris say to leave the stock hydro stop installed? How about the stock topout spring? Yup. Instructions say to leave those in. I'll snap a pic of the other cartridge tomorrow without the cover on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member norwest Posted November 9, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted November 9, 2015 Ok sounds like you are all good then, No need to take a snapshot then. Some cartridge kits take a different approach but if they say leave them in all should be good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
griffin Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 did I miss the review? This thread is creeping along at 5 weeks now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member fzonly1 Posted November 18, 2015 Author Premium Member Share Posted November 18, 2015 did I miss the review? This thread is creeping along at 5 weeks now. Nope. Waiting on new oil / dust seals and oil seal driver. Annnnd oil level tool. I got first leg done and realized I didn't lube the oil seal after cleaning everything back up. So I tore it back down and just ordered new seals. Also I didn't torque the damper rod bolt and need to find out the best way to get it tightened up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pattonme Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 you don't need to torque the bolt very tight. Drop the spring in, turn it upside down, compress a bit, and turn bolt. Hand tight is fine, 15-20ft/lb is PLENTY. The only time it has any force on it is when the forks are at max extension and engaging the top-out spring. The counter-force is only 10mm worth of the main spring so it's not much. If re-using the OE bolts (can't remember if Matris supplies replacements) it's a good idea to run them thru a thread chaser, clean them, and use a fresh copper crush washer. If you want to put a small band of BLUE Loctite on it you can. But that's a bit overkill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member fzonly1 Posted November 19, 2015 Author Premium Member Share Posted November 19, 2015 you don't need to torque the bolt very tight. Drop the spring in, turn it upside down, compress a bit, and turn bolt. Hand tight is fine, 15-20ft/lb is PLENTY. The only time it has any force on it is when the forks are at max extension and engaging the top-out spring. The counter-force is only 10mm worth of the main spring so it's not much. If re-using the OE bolts (can't remember if Matris supplies replacements) it's a good idea to run them thru a thread chaser, clean them, and use a fresh copper crush washer. If you want to put a small band of BLUE Loctite on it you can. But that's a bit overkill. I'll definitely pick up the new crush washers. Mātris didn't supply any hardware with the kit. I haven't seen any residue showing loctite was used so I don't think ill be adding any myself. I'm glad you told me this, I think the stock torque setting for that bolt is 22 lbs anyway. I'd like to shoot for the low end of 15 or so like you suggest. Just got my fork seal driver in mail today. Should get seals and level by Friday. I'm hoping this is the weekend it finally all comes together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member rowdy Posted November 19, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted November 19, 2015 Hey fzonly1, still keeping track of your progress, and thanks for the updates! Where did you get the fork seal driver (link)? Why can't left turners see us? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member fzonly1 Posted November 19, 2015 Author Premium Member Share Posted November 19, 2015 @rowdy (Small steps forward,) so frustrated that it's not done yet. Better planning would have moved this along much quicker. Found the driver on Amazon Prime. Love the 2 day shipping. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009M4COVI/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr0_1?qid=1447902645&sr=8-1-fkmr0&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=fork+oil+seal+driver+41mm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pattonme Posted November 19, 2015 Share Posted November 19, 2015 Cycle Gear carries a driver too. It's a 'generic' one and no where NEAR as nice as the Motion Pro variety but if you have a store near you... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member fzonly1 Posted November 20, 2015 Author Premium Member Share Posted November 20, 2015 Now if I can only find the time... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member rowdy Posted November 21, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted November 21, 2015 Now if I can only find the time... Hey those look just like mine! Now... If I can only find the time too. Why can't left turners see us? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member fzonly1 Posted November 21, 2015 Author Premium Member Share Posted November 21, 2015 Today is the day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member fzonly1 Posted November 22, 2015 Author Premium Member Share Posted November 22, 2015 2am, but I finally made some progress. Too late to crank her up n try it out. Need to make sure I have the fork caps torqued down enough. I tried to protect the caps as much as possible but my socket slipped on both of them chippin the pretty gloss black finish. Pissed. Oh well. Bush league bullsh**. I managed to get the damper rod bolts torqued easily. The oil level tool was very convenient. So was the oil seal driver. I'll be updating tomorrow at some point. Need sleep. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member rowdy Posted November 22, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted November 22, 2015 Nice work fzonly1! Looking forward to the ride report. I still haven't done anything with mine yet, and with the cold temps we've been having, it might have to wait till spring. Why can't left turners see us? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pattonme Posted November 22, 2015 Share Posted November 22, 2015 there is no torque on the fork caps. seated is all that matters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted November 22, 2015 Share Posted November 22, 2015 Yep, the book calls for a whopping 17 ft-lbs for the caps, so just seated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
etorty Posted November 22, 2015 Share Posted November 22, 2015 Indeed, in the Yamaha Service Manual the torque for the cap is 26 Nm (2.6 m • kgf, 19 ft • lbf). It's a medium torque, anyway. www.MT-Series.it Yamaha Official MT-Series Club Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
etorty Posted November 22, 2015 Share Posted November 22, 2015 Can't wait to know the first impressions of @fzonly1... www.MT-Series.it Yamaha Official MT-Series Club Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted November 22, 2015 Share Posted November 22, 2015 Indeed, in the Yamaha Service Manual the torque for the cap is 26 Nm (2.6 m • kgf, 19 ft • lbf). It's a medium torque, anyway. those specs are for the upper bracket pinch bolts - shown just above the cap specs at 17 ft-lbs still, like the man said, snug. The manual does call the lower bracket upper at one point. Not the best manual on the planet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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