I really hate this bike sometimes.

[Beemer]

It's all inspector [HASH]3's fault.
 

[level41]

I think they probably want to discourage first time users working on their bikes, and take it to the dealer instead.
There's really not a lot you can over torque with these bolts.
I think they just over-applied the locktite, which there are 2 kinds. The one that snaps as soon as the bolt gets loose (that one is more like crazy glue on steroids), and the one that has metallic flakes in it, that corrode over time, which the corrosion causes the bolts to be shi┬ tight!
Loosening the second type of bolts gives more a grinding feeling, where the bolt doesn't 'break loose', but where almost the entire part of where the locktite is applied, will prevent the bolt from rotating out...
In bikes, cars, and industry, they mostly use the first type.

[avanti]

As I've said here before... there is a recommended way to "break" loose fasteners minimizing the risk of damage. In fact, there was a time (at least in the 1950s) when auto Shop Manuals "specified" this.
 
FIRST, do NOT just put the wrench on the fastener and start shoving, pushing harder and harder! INSTEAD, "pop" the fastener to break it loose. Old shop manuals specified using an impact wrench but instead one can make sure the wrench used is the best possible and then SMARTLY RAP the end of the wrench with a hammer. I joke you not, this works! And, unless the fastener was already screwed up by someone else, it has NEVER failed me on a factory installed fastener yet. Certainly not on any on the FZ-07. All the best!

[rick]

As I've said here before... there is a recommended way to "break" loose fasteners minimizing the risk of damage. In fact, there was a time (at least in the 1950s) when auto Shop Manuals "specified" this.  
FIRST, do NOT just put the wrench on the fastener and start shoving, pushing harder and harder! INSTEAD, "pop" the fastener to break it loose. Old shop manuals specified using an impact wrench but instead one can make sure the wrench used is the best possible and then SMARTLY RAP the end of the wrench with a hammer. I joke you not, this works! And, unless the fastener was already screwed up by someone else, it has NEVER failed me on a factory installed fastener yet. Certainly not on any on the FZ-07. All the best!

Hmm, just don't do that with a drain plug that has a magnet insert. You might just launch the magnet into the case like sending a croquet ball across the yard.   
I find a little penetrant oil goes a long way to make these tasks a bit easier. Proper fitting tools are a must as well. When all else fails, Ingersol Rand comes to the rescue. 
 
Everything bolted into the frame of my last BMW had this red stuff that had the consistency of hardened, chewing gum. Those bolts fought hard all the way out. 

[avanti]

rick, I have never seen a drain-plug installed at the factory needing such tactics. The only engine drain-plug I've seen with a problem was one installed by the dealer during an oil change that was so tight that THEY rounded the head installing it. Luckily, in that case, a pair of genuine Vice-Grips and a hammer did the job. I have seen one plug, a cross-threaded differential plug in a cast-iron housing, that would only come out after being torched
 
As for launching a plug magnet... simple, don't buy cheapo magnetic plugs. I've yet to see a good one for which the technique I suggest would/could "launch the magnet." As for penetrants, for other than corroded parts I find they are overrated. The best, and I've tried many over my decades of wrenching, cannot physically penetrate fully mated, well-machined parts where they are galled. If in doubt, screw a couple things TIGHTLY together, apply your penetrant of choice, reapply every day for a week, wipe ALL the excess off, disassemble and see how much fluid you find on the threads. But, sure if in doubt, Gibbs, etc. cannot hurt and are always worth a try if you have the time to let the work set.
 
Yeah, thread-locker works, as you discovered on your BMW, and is essential in some applications.
 
All the best.
 
 

[rick]

My Aprilia has 2 drain plugs. One for the oil tank (dry sump) which is small and stupid may to strip and the other is for the part of the case that retains some oil for the gearbox. There's no gasket on that plug and it has a magnet that extends out 3 or 4mm from the end of the plug. That plug tends to be a problem if it's torqued to factory spec - every uses less. well, someone decided to use one of those old style impact wrenches like what we used when case bolts were all cheap phillips heads - you know - the kind with a heavy handle and a spring loaded ramp mechanism that turns when you give it a big whack with a hammer. Thankfully, the magnet didn't go far before it found a gear or something steel and he was to fish to out.
 
I broke a 40 year old socket on a front caliper bolt once. I think the mechanic who worked on it last must have used an air impacter to tighten both of those bolts. Got em out with an impact socket on a 24" breaker bar, then threw those in the bin and replaced with new. Sheesh.
 
And don't ya just love it when you distort a steel oil pan breaking one of the drain plugs free? Been there too..
 
I use some stuff called Rust Reaper. It was a home brew made/sold by someone who farmed or something similar for a real living - so lots of equipment out in the weather. Can't buy it anymore. It smells a bit like a mix of Simple Green (which will remove paint if left full strength long enough) and WD40. The guy also said it was neither. But I've had pretty good success with it. Here's an old review http://www.cruzinmag.com/archives/0609/feature6.html
 
Lots of people swear by a 50/50 mix of acetone and automatic tranny fluid.
 
Yeah, w/o a torch, if there's enough rust, not much will help beyond brute force.