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Low RPM stutter and hesitation


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Hi all, I plan on replacing the O2 sensor. Not sure if there are any adverse side effects, but don't really want to risk it.
 
I rode it today to work and found that the problem is actually only 95% fixed. The problem still exists in the same RPM range (2000-3000) under light throttle but it is just the slightest bit of hesitation now and avoidable if I just give it more gas. There's a motorcycle rental shop nearby that rents FZ07s so I might go rent one for a couple of hours today and make sure that it's not just something that happens at very low throttle/RPMs. 
 
Another question: If you are just idling along in 1st gear, is the bike jerky on occasion?
"Borrow.....;)" the rental bike's o2 sensor? 

ATGATT... ATTATT, two acronyms I live by.
 

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Rental place may have a clued up tec with a code reader that can fix it for less than the rental.
The bike is light with a relatively torque'y engine so if your not smooth with the controls you feel
it through the bike,

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  • 2 weeks later...

So the problem has slowly returned even with the o2 sensor unplugged. I sprayed some water on the pipes and one is running way hotter than the other, so I think it's the coil or spark plugs now. The bike isn't throwing any codes.

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Coils are in the plug caps so as long as you keep the wiring on the same cylinders you
could swap the actual coils and see if the cold exhausts swaps side with the coil,
same with the plug but only swap one at a time so your sure if it's plug or coil.
I seem to remember some Mazda car coils are better cheaper and fit. but cant remember
the model,
 

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Mechanic says it's the fuel pump now. I think the stuttering symptom points to that but how about the one cool pipe? He says he checked the coils and spark plugs. Is it possible he is lying?

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Would think that if a coil was misbehaving, it would kick up an error code. At only 2200 km, its not likely a plug has died - guess it could be fouled from running in loads of slow traffic. It's been my opinion that most motorcycle motors like to be spun up more than droning along at revs under the meat of the torque curve.
 
The bike is now 2 years old with only 1300 miles. That represents a whole lot of sitting. If it was sitting in a warm, wet climate with fuel, you could have effects of old fuel gumming up an injector. Assuming your spray test is valid, you assumed it was a lack of spark. it could be a dirty injector as well.
 
Also, this bike does not have a fuel filter - just a screen of some sort to prevent rocks from getting to the pump. That just adds potential fuel problems to the list - like if you got a bad tankful of fuel.
 
If you have available - buy a can of fuel injector cleaner (Techron, Seafood or similar) and follows the directions. run a couple tanks with this stuff - it's cheaper than a mechanic and might just fix it.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

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I've already had the injectors taken out and cleaned by my mechanic so I don't think it's a gunked up injector. He just finished replacing the fuel pump and cleaned the o2 sensor and plugged it back in. Again, it fixed the problem for a day and then it slowly came back. Exact same symptoms, shutters at rpms below 3000. I really feel like it's a sensor or ecu now. Three times now (after cleaning the injectors, unplugging the o2 sensor, and replacing the fuel pump) the problem has been fixed for a day only to return after a couple of drives. Doesn't seem like a fuel delivery or spark issue (not that I have a ton of experience).

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Just curios, is your mechanic an actual mechanic working for a reputable shop?
Me thnks they could read the ECU and fnd out what is causing this
 
But what do I know

“Laws that forbid the carrying of arms disarm only those who are neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes.” --Thomas Jefferson quoting Cesare Beccaria

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Every time I have to start from a stop (I'm in 1st gear), the bike lurches and hesitates until it gets past 3000 or so RPM. It also lacks the power to get out of that RPM range in any gear. I'm in Taiwan, finding a reputable shop and mechanic is quite difficult.

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I don't think this is ignition or fuel. If you had too little fuel going to the rail (bad pump), it would show up at higher RPMs and maybe not at where your problem is. Same thing goes for plugs and coils. They work harder at higher revs.
 
Your problem is only in the closed loop part of the fuel map. I'm gonna guess the hesitation only happens with the Eco light on. This is where the O2 sensor works. When the eco light is out (higher revs or big throttle settings) , the fuel map goes to open loop and is set by the ECU only w/o input from the sensor.
 
Would think you should have an error code on the dash if the sensor is bad, but if that doesn't happen and even w/o Yamaha's diagnostic, your mechanic should be able to read the voltage output from that sensor when the exhaust is hot. As for cleaning that sensor - have no idea what if anything that does. think about it. it lives in the hot exhaust, it's gonna get dirty.
 
this is long a maybe too much info, but worth a watch

 
 
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  • 2 weeks later...

Ended up being the spark plugs. Wish the mechanic just changed then when I asked him to at the beginning. I should like into getting some tools and finding a workspace. Motorcycle mechanics in Taiwan are not the best...

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Very odd at that mileage, unless you have a habit of just starting the bike
and stopping it before it gets hot enough to keep the plugs clean.
Anyway all fixed now ride on.

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Very odd at that mileage, unless you have a habit of just starting the bike and stopping it before it gets hot enough to keep the plugs clean.
Anyway all fixed now ride on.
Guess that water spray test works.  
Wonder what the rest of the inside of that cylinder looks like? 
 
Time to put some miles on that motor and get it truly broken in. 
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