I'm finally getting around to installing my Woodcraft axle sliders that have been laying on a shelve for about a month.

 

But I've run into an issue installing the front sliders due to what appears to be a casting mark/ring on the inside of the Front axle on my 2017 ABS model. I'm thinking I'll be getting out the Dremel to smooth down the ridge shown inside the axle center that's preventing the collar from fitting flush. The woodcraft insert appears to be in excellent condition with a smooth surface.

 

 Has anyone else run into this? Does anyone else have this on the inside of their axle? If the nag is not normal I may decide to save time and effort and just order a new axle if I know I can get one that's nag free.

 

Even tapping lightly with a rubber mallet will not seat this past this point.

 

The hole is not nagged up since I did not use brute force (hammer) when I reinstalled my axle after my suspension upgrade, which is the only time the axle's been out.

 

So much for a quick & easy install.

 

Thanks in advance for any useful information you may have.

 

i'd almost say take the axel out and see if the slider mount fits w/o it on the bike. 
might be something small like the slight distortion from the clamping of the axle?

 

does it fit all the way through>?

12 minutes ago, sorkyah said:

i'd almost say take the axel out and see if the slider mount fits w/o it on the bike. 
might be something small like the slight distortion from the clamping of the axle?

 

does it fit all the way through>?

As shown in the first picture, the wide collar should be flush against the axle head. The axle is hollow and I'm able to just get the threads started on the mating half that goes in from the threaded end of the axle.

 

Short of taking a hammer to it, I don't see it being drawn all the way on. And according to Woodcraft, that I talked to earlier today, I should be able to hand fit this through the axle.

 

I've sent requested pictures and caliper measurements to Woodcraft. I'm waiting for a response.

Edited October 22, 20186 yr by DewMan

wonder if the axle is a bit different on the ABS model compared to the non-ABS

nevermind, same part number 
are you certain that's whats holdin up the install? 
if you pull the slider bar out, is there a registration mark on the metal where it was hung up, and does it match that collar inside the axle? or is it further down the slider bar?
 

6 minutes ago, sorkyah said:

wonder if the axle is a bit different on the ABS model compared to the non-ABS

 

The woodcraft axle sliders are listed as being for 2015-2018 models so I don't believe that would be the case.

3 minutes ago, DewMan said:

The woodcraft axle sliders are listed as being for 2015-2018 models so I don't believe that would be the case.

This is what I get when i try to look at the 2018 model. 
as for the ABS... im not sure if that was taken into account when they built it

 

Odd it does not seat completely inside the axle, appears there maybe some rough edges inside axle, perhaps cleaning with round file may help.

 

 

 

 

Mine was a close fit.  I vaguely remember having to smooth out the fz07 axle a very slight amount on the inside.  My guess is the I.D. of the axle is not a high tolerance dimension and varies from part to part.

Here you go... 

 

 

 

2 hours ago, sorkyah said:

This is what I get when i try to look at the 2018 model. 
as for the ABS... im not sure if that was taken into account when they built it

 

It appears it's not recognizing the new MT naming convention since it list as available for 2018 "FZ-07"

Thanks everyone for the replies. They are much appreciated. 👍

 

Most likely I'll need to smooth out the rough spots the axle with the Dremel until it fits. I'll wait to see what Woodcraft has to say about it tomorrow when they respond to the data I sent them.

Think I'd just use a curved or round file. A couple swipes should do it. I'd be afraid of removing too much with a Dremel

1 hour ago, rick said:

Think I'd just use a curved or round file. A couple swipes should do it. I'd be afraid of removing too much with a Dremel

I was just planning on using a sanding drum to knock down te high spots.

1 hour ago, DewMan said:

I was just planning on using a sanding drum to knock down te high spots.

finer the paper needed, the better. But that should work.

Hah, that's what happens when you buy a nicely machined part and install it into mass-produced and cheap. 

 

 

I had this problem with the front sliders. At Woodcraft's suggestion I am going to send them the front axle when I put the bike up for the winter and they will install a slider rod that fits.

Edited October 23, 20186 yr by farble

33 minutes ago, farble said:

I had this problem with the front sliders. At Woodcraft's suggestion I am going to send them the front axle when I put the bike up for the winter and they will install a slider rod that fits.

They just sent me a response that cleaning up the nag on the inside of the axle with the Dremel will resolve the issue. It should be a 5 min fix.

Good.Glad that works for you. I sent them pictures and micrometer measurements. My axle I.D. is just too small. I thought their technical support was really helpful.

Just a quick update:
I was able to knock down the nag on the inside of the axle in only a couple minutes with the Dremel at lowest speed and a sanding drum only running it a few seconds at a time so as not to remove any more than needed  or heat up the axle bolt. I used a blowgun to blow out the grit & debris. The collar slides in like butter without noticeable slop now.  👍

 

Thanks again everyone for their input. ✌️

True, but remember: this is the inside of the axle, a surface that is not in contact with any other component and is not highly toleranced for surface finish or dimensions because it's basically the inside of a bolt that was cored to reduce weight. The tolerance and surface finish would have purposely been left "soft."

 

It's the job of the aftermarket designers to determine how to dimension/tolerance their add-ons to accommodate the existing dims/tolerances. Often that is difficult, though, as manufacturing part-run to part-run there can be significant differences in soft dims.

 

Anyway, I'd also take a Dremel and sanding drum to it and gently remove the high-spots.