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Help replacing Clutch Plates


RunningonMT

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I was doing some slow city driving last weekend and my clutch pretty much went from fine to nonfunctional in about 30 seconds. 

I just ordered new clutch plates and I wanted to know if I need to drain the coolant to access the clutch assembly? 

If so do I need to remove the hose assembly from the clutch cover and will I need a new gasket?

Any input is much appreciated!

Also if anyone has any resources for the repair manual that would be swweeeet.

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Before I'd worry about replacing the clutch plates. I be checking what caused the clutch to go from "fine" to "nonfunctional" first.
I would suspect the clutch cable before I'd think it to be the plates if you lost the clutch that quickly.

 

More details of what lead up to the event would be helpful.

Best of luck resolving your issue.

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DewMan
 
Just shut up and ride.

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cornerslider
7 minutes ago, DewMan said:

Before I'd worry about replacing the clutch plates. I be checking what caused the clutch to go from "fine" to "nonfunctional" first.
I would suspect the clutch cable before I'd think it to be the plates if you lost the clutch that quickly.

 

More details of what lead up to the event would be helpful.

Best of luck resolving your issue.

I agree with DewMan.... Clutch plates generally don't go from "fine" to "non-functional" in 30 seconds. Something else is probably going on. I'd bet it's something really simple compared to replacing the clutch 😎. You do need to drain the coolant if you tear into the clutch plates. Luckily, it's REALLY easy on the FZ-07. Check the "How to" section, or stickies, there's a good write-up on draining/changing the coolant. I'll try to post the clutch section out of my service manual tonight. I doubt you will need it though 😀-

 

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""W.O.T. until you see god, then brake"

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cornerslider

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""W.O.T. until you see god, then brake"

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cornerslider

Hope that helps... I'd advise you to look at the simple stuff, before tearing into the clutch pack-

""W.O.T. until you see god, then brake"

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I hope you have an oil with no friction modifiers!!!
and or I hope nothing let go in the clutch

 

Drain the oil and use a oil strainer just to make sure your not spitting out chucks of metal

Edited by r1limited

“Laws that forbid the carrying of arms disarm only those who are neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes.” --Thomas Jefferson quoting Cesare Beccaria

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2 hours ago, RunningonMT said:

I was doing some slow city driving last weekend and my clutch pretty much went from fine to nonfunctional in about 30 seconds. 

I just ordered new clutch plates and I wanted to know if I need to drain the coolant to access the clutch assembly? 

If so do I need to remove the hose assembly from the clutch cover and will I need a new gasket?

Any input is much appreciated!

Also if anyone has any resources for the repair manual that would be swweeeet.

The gasket will most likely stick and come apart so order a new one.  Getting proper engagement of the pull lever on the pull rod was tricky and it took me two attempts.

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11 hours ago, cornerslider said:

Hope that helps... I'd advise you to look at the simple stuff, before tearing into the clutch pack-

Sweet that is definitely gonna be a huge help. I’ll check the cable again but it was pulling the lever freely. I’ll do a more detailed inspection with the section of the manual about lever adjustment.

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18 hours ago, cornerslider said:

I agree with DewMan.... Clutch plates generally don't go from "fine" to "non-functional" in 30 seconds. Something else is probably going on. I'd bet it's something really simple compared to replacing the clutch 😎. You do need to drain the coolant if you tear into the clutch plates. Luckily, it's REALLY easy on the FZ-07. Check the "How to" section, or stickies, there's a good write-up on draining/changing the coolant. I'll try to post the clutch section out of my service manual tonight. I doubt you will need it though 😀-

 

I did forget to mention I lowsided last week at about 20-30 mph on the throttle side. Sliders prevented most damaged but still had scratches on clutch cover and water pump housing. I’ve been riding it everyday after with no problem but I guess I’ll have to figure it out.

Do I also have to remove the water pump housing from the clutch cover to access the plates ? Just wondering so I can possibly replace some of the scratched stuff while it’s apart. 

Thanks again!

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3 hours ago, RunningonMT said:

I did forget to mention I lowsided last week at about 20-30 mph on the throttle side. Sliders prevented most damaged but still had scratches on clutch cover and water pump housing.

 

TameBadBichonfrise-small.gif

“Laws that forbid the carrying of arms disarm only those who are neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes.” --Thomas Jefferson quoting Cesare Beccaria

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  • 1 year later...
On 1/7/2019 at 8:20 PM, randy2100 said:

The gasket will most likely stick and come apart so order a new one.  Getting proper engagement of the pull lever on the pull rod was tricky and it took me two attempts.

Yeah I just changed mine last night and putting the cover back on and getting the pull lever on the pull rod in the correct orientation was the hardest part. 

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