P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit

[vhooda]

Hello there, My code reader s showing the error P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit on my Tracer MT-07, I had Epileptic Sezuire and licence has been taken away for a year. I restarted the bike after replacing the battery, the bike started fine but it was misfiring probably because of old fuel. I left if the bike running for a few minutes and I returned it was stopped and check engine light was on, plugged bought a CODE reader (from eBay )and it shows the above error. I am not riding and I have cancelled the membership for my breakdown service, there is no option of taking it to a dealership.

If someone tells me for the beginning where the sensor location if and how to test it if it's faulty it will be much appreciated.

Many Thanks

 

Edited April 18, 2019 by vhooda

[mossrider]

Just now, vhooda said:

Hello there, My code reader s showing the error P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit on my Tracer MT-07, I had Epileptic Sezuire and licence has been taken away for a year. I restarted the bike after replacing the battery, the bike started fine but it was misfiring probably because of old fuel. I left if the bike running for a few minutes and I returned it was stopped and check engine light was on, plugged bought a CODE reader (from eBay )and it shows the above error. I am not riding and I have cancelled the membership for my breakdown service, there is no option of taking it to a dealership.

If someone tells me for the beginning where the sensor location if and how to test it if it's faulty it will be much appreciated.

Many Thanks

 

Hello,

You should be ok here. The motorcycle has an unattended bike shut down feature that stops the motor after a few minutes when it's left idling for a protracted time. On top of that, if it has chugged to stop due to bad fuel or some other reason, it will make all kinds of electronic assumptions as to why. As the ignition is still in the run position you can get a dashfull of warning lights and codes, should be no big deal.

First get the old fuel out of it, modern fuel stores horribly. While doing that charge the battery, electronics like good power. On the left side of the bike near the voltage regulator (finned metal wallet sized doohicky with big wire bundles clipped to it) are 2 smaller electrical connectors, one white the other black. See attached pic.

Then follow the instructions bellow to test it but I suspect when you get fresh fuel in the system, fully charge the battery, run some Kawasaki injector cleaner (best/strongest there is) through it and restart it you'll be just fine.

Good luck! 

Edited April 18, 2019 by mossrider

[vhooda]

Hi Mossrider,

Can you explain a bit more, 

 "On the left side of the bike near the voltage regulator (finned metal wallet sized doohicky with big wire bundles clipped to it) are 2 smaller electrical connectors, one white the other black. See attached pic."

I have only removed the seat for access to the battery, What else do I need to remove, are the things you are talking about located underneath the seat?

Also, I have replaced the battery but no idea how to empty the fuel?

Sorry, I am a doctor and got absolutely no idea about motorbikes...

[mossrider]

Just now, vhooda said:

Hi Mossrider,

Can you explain a bit more, 

 "On the left side of the bike near the voltage regulator (finned metal wallet sized doohicky with big wire bundles clipped to it) are 2 smaller electrical connectors, one white the other black. See attached pic."

I have only removed the seat for access to the battery, What else do I need to remove, are the things you are talking about located underneath the seat?

Also, I have replaced the battery but no idea how to empty the fuel?

Sorry, I am a doctor and got absolutely no idea about motorbikes...

Certainly, you will have to remove some of the bodywork around the fuel tank. The voltage regulator is toward the front of the bike on the left side (as you straddle it) under the fuel tank. Having said that I would leave that till last as you may not have to go that far, hopefully. 

The easiest way to empty the fuel tank is to get a cheap siphon (walmart) and suck it out. Burn it in your car, diluted with a full tank, to get rid of it. Put some strong injector/fuel system cleaner in the tank, from Napa or dealer or where ever.

Try this first, the codes should go away. If it still runs poorly after a tank of fuel then you can go deeper and check the sensors and codes. It's highly unlikely that just sitting would cause mechanical problems. It's more likely you have crappy fuel and it just wouldn't run. 

[vhooda]

Hello Again,

Ok, I did as I was told, I am in the UK, so bought a Siphon from Local Halfords. Got the fuel out, I think I cannot use the Fuel system cleaner without the bike running but I bought it in the hope it will run someday..replaced the battery already and added fresh Petrol (Gasoline). Wiped the CODE off with my Code reader, the engine lights gone off but still the same situation! No priming of the fuel pump and no activity in the starter. Still, it says "P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit" or until I wiped the error code off :-). 

Is there a way to bring on the error codes if the code is already deleted? I think it was a mistake!

Ok, moving on I now have to approach the left side fairing panel underneath which sits the voltage regulator... Any tips on getting this thing off. Mind you... I own a 2017 Tracer Mt 07.

[mossrider]

9 minutes ago, vhooda said:

Hello Again,

Ok, I did as I was told, I am in the UK, so bought a Siphon from Local Halfords. Got the fuel out, I think I cannot use the Fuel system cleaner without the bike running but I bought it in the hope it will run someday..replaced the battery already and added fresh Petrol (Gasoline). Wiped the CODE off with my Code reader, the engine lights gone off but still the same situation! No priming of the fuel pump and no activity in the starter. Still, it says "P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit" or until I wiped the error code off :-). 

Is there a way to bring on the error codes if the code is already deleted? I think it was a mistake!

Ok, moving on I now have to approach the left side fairing panel underneath which sits the voltage regulator... Any tips on getting this thing off. Mind you... I own a 2017 Tracer Mt 07.

I'll try, mine is a stripped down race bike FZ07, not a Tracer so bear with me. 

I've attached a pic of bike w/o and bodywork on it. You can see the approx location of the regulator (finned thing, yours will be orientated a little differently). You may not have to take much or any bodywork off on a Tracer, i don't know. Just to the front and beneath it you should see the fan relay and crank sensor plugs, one black, one white. Take those off by depressing the tiny tab and tugging on the plastic plug, not the wires. It should come off easily. The one you are after is behind the easy one, of course.

Now you can test it per the previous pic, I'll look up the test value shortly, i didn't realize it's not pictured.

But you really need to exhaust your other options first, no need for a bypass if stents will do . What do you mean it won't crank? Starter won't even engage? Or simply won't start? We need to get as much old gas out of the system as possible first, tank, fuel pump, lines, throttle bodies, injectors etc. Get it fired up and run some cleaner through the system so it's running on fresh gas.

[mossrider]

The crank position sensor test reading should be between 228-342 ohms. 

[vhooda]

2 hours ago, mossrider said:

no need for a bypass if stents will do

 I wanted to say that I am an Orthopaedic Surgeon so I didn't get it !! (Orthopaedics is not a branch for bright doctors)

Ok the story so far, Bike kept in my garage for 3 months while I recovered from Epilepsy. Alternate day use before that, for commuting. I had a trickle charger but plugged into my other bike as I wasn't planning to have epilepsy!!!

I found the battery was dead and trickle charger wouldn't have worked so I Jump started it and then attached the trickle charger and kept the bike running for a while, when I returned to the garage after about 20 mins the bike had shut off spontaneously, I again jump started it and left it running and I returned after 10 min to find engine light on and bike not starting  i.e simply won't start. Also, I noticed the bike was extremely hot. It was parked in a garage and outside temp was 13Deg. I can hear a relay clicking from underneath the seat when I pull the red switch down i.e. ignition on position but no fuel pump priming no attempt to start or fire the engine.

I assumed that the battery voltage as low and replaced it. In doing so I connected the terminals wrong way round as I forgot which position the battery went in and in going so I blew the main fuse.

Now back to the same symptom again, Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit which I started off initially before replacing the battery. CODE is now deleted and engine management light is gone off. All the fuses are fine and the relay makes a clicking sound when the starter button is pressed.  

I will try and attempt removal of side panel tomorrow.

Goodnight.

 

[DewMan]

21 minutes ago, vhooda said:

 

I assumed that the battery voltage as low and replaced it. In doing so I connected the terminals wrong way round as I forgot which position the battery went in and in going so I blew the main fuse.

 

I'd confirm all the other fuses as well. It may well have blown other fuses before blowing the main.

 

Good luck resolving your issue.

[vhooda]

Hi DewMan,

I have gone back to the old problems before changing the battery, still, no fuse is blown other than the main fuse. And I reconfirmed it again today morning. I know the +ve and -ve terminals but got confused with the wires, I did not pay enough attention to the position of the original battery before I took out.

Thanks

[vhooda]

Hi,

I got to the crankshaft position sensor, can you tell me which side it needs testing from ' what it removed from the sensor or the plug you put it in and should I switch on the ignition before doing it?

Also, what settings on the multimeter, I have 200 Ohms setting but not 100 Ohms. Pics attached...

Edited April 19, 2019 by vhooda

[vhooda]

Sorry, the other two errors on the code reader were low voltage. It is showing three error but I have replaced the battery since and the engine light is gone as I erased it with the code reader...

Edited April 19, 2019 by vhooda

[mossrider]

You're all set to test it. See attached repost; begin w/ignition off. 

I'm a little unclear about your status due to language here;

When you turn key to run, do you have power? Does the fuel pump cycle/energize? Do the gauges power up and cycle? 

When you press the start button; does the starter motor engage and turn the motor over? Or does it simply 'click' under the seat? Nothing at all? If it turns the motor over, does it cough, try to fire, or just spin?

Are there any other things you can think of that a have been done or have happened during the course of this restart? Any changes, repairs, fixes or modifications to the bike that have not been mentioned? 

I fear I'm missing something here. If the sensor checks ok, I would back up and pull the plugs to check for spark, check for fuel, then go from there. 

Confused on this side of pond.

[vhooda]

Hi,

Can you tell me the part seen in the picture below ( white plug) is the bit we need to test the resistance across?

[vhooda]

Also, I do not seem to have the ohms  X 100 Scale on my Multimeter. 2000k, 200k and 20k... Does it matter? Sorry for my ignorance!!

[vhooda]

All electricals are working dash lights up etc.. Only get a click from underneath the seat when I press the starter button... No fuel pump energising at all. 

9 hours ago, mossrider said:

Do the gauges power up and cycle?

I do not understand what that means?

[mossrider]

Ohms 200 is fine, you're looking for a reading bellow 1000 or the 1K scale. You want to test the sensor side of the connectors (side that comes up from the motor cover on the left side), not the ecu side (side that goes to the other side of bike and enters the smooth black plastic thing with a hundred wires going into it). You want a reading between 228 and 342 ohms.  

Just now, vhooda said:

All electricals are working dash lights up etc.. Only get a click from underneath the seat when I press the starter button... No fuel pump energising at all. 

I do not understand what that means?

You answered that question.

You're beginning to stump me...

No 'whirring' from under the fuel tank when you turn the key on? Curious. 

Clicking from under the seat, I would check and clean all battery connections and charge the battery again.

It ran, albeit roughly, initially kid it not? Twice actually before stalling while unattended?

[vhooda]

Does -22.7 mean anything for you? Its the reading I am getting after using the multimeter set at 200 Ohms setting from the sensor, I can't see the wires going out from the base of the sensor as it is clipped underneath some sort of black box and access is difficult... so I had to guess. If I connect it on the reverse with the multimeter it's giving a reading of between 66.2 to 86.7 and it never stops counting or stabilises...

Presumably, it means 227 Ohms from the first reading?

The battery was changed after the Engine Light showed up on the dash, I presumed it was the battery... It is nearly new, current battery voltage 12.6. Yes, it did start with the old battery twice...

I have a video for you on Youtube which shows the Clicking sound underneath the seat and no fuel pump energising and no attempt to start the bike i.e. firing. 

 

[mossrider]

Fully charged your battery should show 12.8 volts, so you're close. Yes, your crank position sensor checks out. It sounds to me that you've blown some other fuses during your adventure. Check the fuel injection, ignition and main fuses again, clean (emery) the battery connections, charge the battery. I'll bet you find 2 blown fuses, ignition and fuel injection.

Follow this checklist and call me in the morning...

The next pic shows the location of the 3 fuse boxes.

Get this darn thing running.

[vhooda]

I presume that by EFI=fuel Injection and Ignition fuse both are fine, checked visually and with Multimeter. The main fuse is Fine otherwise the dash won't light up, checked again!

The starter relay is showing the same current as battery 12.6 Volts. Starter relay can be defective according to your list and still, it will make a clicking sound. I checked the connections relay is getting the current but it might be arcing or unable to find sufficient current. I can see the voltage supplied is correct but maybe the relay to functioning properly. How do you test for that? or the Solenoid could be fried, I saw a video on that ... 

[vhooda]

But why would CODE reader give Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit error, is it common after attaching diagnostics...

[shinyribs]

Shot in the dark here since you've got a Euro spec bike with an immobilizer. 

These bikes have onboard self diagnostic systems. Any trouble code the ECU notices will be displayed on the bike's instrument panel. Once the problem is solved the bike clears the code automatically. You bought an "eBay code reader" , which I dont think you need, but you mentioned using it to "wipe codes" from the bike. I don't know anything about this code reader you've got, or what it's doing to your ECU as it "wipes" things away, but is it possible that it has triggered your immobilizer somehow? 

I don't know how to reset a triggered immobilizer. Never seen one in America. Otherwise it seems you're in good hands with Mossrider. Good luck, guys. 

[mossrider]

Just now, shinyribs said:

Shot in the dark here since you've got a Euro spec bike with an immobilizer. 

These bikes have onboard self diagnostic systems. Any trouble code the ECU notices will be displayed on the bike's instrument panel. Once the problem is solved the bike clears the code automatically. You bought an "eBay code reader" , which I dont think you need, but you mentioned using it to "wipe codes" from the bike. I don't know anything about this code reader you've got, or what it's doing to your ECU as it "wipes" things away, but is it possible that it has triggered your immobilizer somehow? 

I don't know how to reset a triggered immobilizer. Never seen one in America. Otherwise it seems you're in good hands with Mossrider. Good luck, guys. 

No, wait! Come back! We need help here. Good call on the imobilizer, I'm ignorant on those as well. 

As far as crank errors, I know that when my Harvey Donaldson throws codes it always seems to be 'crank sensor' by default. For what ever reason when it encounters an issue that it doesn't recognize it chooses 'crank sensor' from the drop down, lol. I'm not an electrical wizard.

Just now, vhooda said:

But why would CODE reader give Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit error, is it common after attaching diagnostics...

I'm not sure. Mine did it once after we stalled it on the dyno messing with mapping. Cleared on restart and never saw it again. 

Now I guess we continue down the list. From what you describe, it sounds like the starter relay is ok. Odds are something happened after the stall, be it jump start(s), battery debacle or what ever that fried a circuit, sensor or relay. 

Here's the ignition switch;

and the start circuit;

Page 2;

 

Edited April 20, 2019 by mossrider

[vhooda]

Hi shinyribs and mossrider,

My bike does not show the codes on the dash but I agree, some of the other models do!  It has a diagnostics cable where you attach the code reader. Immobilizer gets triggered on after 5 seconds after you switch the ignition off and that it the light you are seeing on the dash... it disappears after the bike is switched on. Yes, I agree wiping the codes off with my diagnostic tool was probably a mistake and now the engine light is disappeared and the bike is still not starting.

mossrider, the further investigation my bike is difficult and I will find it hard to take the tank off completely. I would not know how to put it back together you see!

Best to leave it alone for a year and get my licence back and call in the bike recovery guys to take it to a dealership.

Unless you suggest otherwise... I am not very comfortable with the electronics business, I am good with my mechanics.

[norcal616]

Have you checked the fuses next to the battery?? 

I seen you posted a picture of the fuse box on the side of the Tracer, but not the battery tray area... I have a Tracer900-a fuse box on side and another next to battery tray...you said you accidentally hooked up the battery wrong- happens to the best of us... That will blow the fuses next to the battery tray which has fuses for other electronics on the bike...

See my picture posted...at bottom of picture you see 3 more fuse boxes, the clear one and 2 black ones..this is off my FZ-07...