Wolfy07 Posted December 31, 2019 Share Posted December 31, 2019 I'm trying to separate my main switch from the top triple so that I can remove the wiring bracket that looks to be sandwiched between. sounds easy enough... only instead of screw heads I'm seeing what looks like rivets? Is that right? Were these things pressed in to the triple? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Global Moderator mjh937 Posted December 31, 2019 Global Moderator Share Posted December 31, 2019 @Wolfy07, are you talking about the key switch? It looks like it is attached with three hex head screws. I am not at home to check to see what mine looks like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mossrider Posted December 31, 2019 Share Posted December 31, 2019 Just now, Wolfy07 said: I'm trying to separate my main switch from the top triple so that I can remove the wiring bracket that looks to be sandwiched between. sounds easy enough... only instead of screw heads I'm seeing what looks like rivets? Is that right? Were these things pressed in to the triple? Those are tamper proof and will have to be drilled, chiseled or discumboberated outta there. I used an air chisel to lop the heads off and there's no going back. Those allen heads in the above diagram are for the top tripple fork mounts (pinch bolts) and the steering stem pinch bolt, not the iggy. The iggy is not available alone and must be purchased with imobilizer, seat lock and gas cap, haha. You can pop the whole top tripple off and flip it over if that helps accomplish whatever you're up to. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolfy07 Posted December 31, 2019 Author Share Posted December 31, 2019 Those tamper-proofs are threaded though? For the sake of replacement? Here is a pic for those who are curious... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mossrider Posted January 1, 2020 Share Posted January 1, 2020 They are threaded, but you'd have to replace them with something else. Here's another view of the holes when empty for reference. I popped mine off to do a keyless race ignition and remove those fricken wire looms you mentioned. They don't sell those fasteners as a replacement I don't believe but you could certainly use a bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolfy07 Posted January 2, 2020 Author Share Posted January 2, 2020 That's great. Thanks for the reference mossrider. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spatt Posted January 3, 2020 Share Posted January 3, 2020 On 12/31/2019 at 7:25 PM, mossrider said: They are threaded, but you'd have to replace them with something else. Here's another view of the holes when empty for reference. I popped mine off to do a keyless race ignition and remove those fricken wire looms you mentioned. They don't sell those fasteners as a replacement I don't believe but you could certainly use a bolt. Its called a shear bolt. You can buy them commercially. We use them in some designs when you dont want someone to easily tamper with something. Shear Bolts | Anti-Theft Bolts | Fastenright Ltd Shear bolts are used in many industries where robust permanent security fixings are required. Wide range available from stock for... 1 Get your MT07 & FZ07 racing parts at https://www.robemengineering.com/fz-07-products Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trucks44 Posted April 17, 2023 Share Posted April 17, 2023 2017 FZ07 Here. Similar question over here. Replacing the switch because it got destroyed in a theft attempt, ruining the keyhole, but leaving it in the locked position. I just ordered the keyswitch, but havent started with disassembly yet. Can the upper triple be removed with the keyway still locked, to get access to those shear-bolt stubs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bulletbrazen Posted May 24, 2023 Share Posted May 24, 2023 Don't know if you're still looking for a solution but I'm in a similar position but can only tell you what NOT to try. The drill the bolt/ use screw extractor method doesn't work with regular consumer screw extractors, both broke and the extractor cannot be drilled out after, so it makes the situation worse than when you started. So now I'm considering just using a heavy wedge and cracking the bolt at the seam between ignition and triple. (Ironically, even if triple breaks and has to be replaced it's waay cheaper than having it towed and having a shop do the work on those bolts) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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