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Stripped Oil pan screw hole


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So.. I was trying to save some money and change the oil and filter myself. 

It turned out as bad is it can go I think. 


I have a 2015 MT-07 Moto Cage with the guard infront of the oil filter. This had to come off. 

When I had replaced the oil filter and was tightening the screws going through the guard mount into the oilpan, it snapped and I stripped the inners of the oil pan I think. 


Question is, do I have to replace the oil pan or can it be fixed cheaper by re-threading? 

And.. The bolt does tighten a little bit, can it be driven to my dealer for a fix in that case?

Oljepanne skrue.jpg

Oljepanne feste.jpg

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That's what you call an oh 💩 moment!!! I don't know anything about a "moto cage". I'm assuming it's for stunting? If that is the case, I doubt you stripped it while loosening it.... The bike probably fell on it's side, and that put undue stress on the cage/motor. I'm assuming you are still using the OEM oil pan bolts? That would have shortened the thread engagement (by the thickness of the cage mount), and with that-  there wasn't enough thread left to support the additional load. I'm assuming a lot with this theory.... Based on what I think I see in the pictures-  it looks the the "cage" mounts underneath the oil pan bolts. The bolts appear to go through the bolt holes in both the "cage", and oil pan, and then thread into the block of the motor. If that is the case, replacing the oil pan wouldn't help. The threads appear to be stripped out in the engine block. If this is the case, here is my suggestion:

-Do NOT drive the bike

-Remove the oil pan completely

-Find transportation for the bike

-Find a reputable machine shop to install a "heli-coil", or re-tap threads in the engine block (whatever the machine shop recommends)

-Reinstall the oil pan, and fill with oil

Going forward, this will be a "weak spot", and likely a one time only fix.... If the threads tear out of the engine block a second time, you may be looking at replacing the motor. Like I said earlier, I'm assuming a lot as I can't really see it with my own eyes. I don't know ANYTHING about a moto-cage, or stunting, or the side-loading during a "drop"? Wishing you the best. Let us know how it turns out-



""W.O.T. until you see god, then brake"

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The Moto Cage is a version of the MT-07 with some extra flashy accessories like handguards, guard for oilfilter etc etc. (see picture) 


The guard infront of the oilfilter makes it 10 times easier to swap the filter, therefor I took it off. 

It was when I re-installed the guard I tightened the screw to hard. It "snapped" and didn't tighten properly. '


Edit: The bike has never tipped/fallen. 


You're very much correct in your assumption that the bolts go through the guard mount, into the  oil pan and then into the block. The coiled metal thing in the top picture came out on the bolt itself when I unscrewed the bolt. I assumed that it was able to come out because it was from the oilpan, but as a rookie I am most likely wrong. 


Thanks allot for the tips! I will for sure look into it. 


Update will follow :) 

Edited by Mojo
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I had to replace the oil pan on my bike. The bolts pass through the oil pan in to the engine cases. The only threaded hole on the oil pan is for the drain. Unless the motocage uses a different pan, but I'm pretty sure your guard just bolts over the standard pan.

So, your stripped hole is really in the cases, not the pan. If you remove the pan you will expose the engine innards to the rethreading process. If you have clearance to get your drill in position it is likely you can do the drilling with the pan in place. Depends on mow large the bolt thru-hole in the pan is. 

Honestly.....if it's not leaking....and you don't NEED the guard...I wouldn't stop riding the bike over it until you have the repair all ready to go.  

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Good tips all around here. 


I am sure the Moto Cage got the same oil pan as every other MT-07.

I got some improvised stands for lifting the bike making it easier to access the bolts underneath. 

I will try the "heli-coil" or tapping new threads and I suppose the holes in the pan is large enough for 1 size larger bolts.


Luckily the season has not startet yet here in Norway, so I got a couple of months to fix this issue.

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1 hour ago, bugeyes said:

Be sure to use a drillbit with a stopper not to go too deep

That's a good tip. I suppose meassuring the bolt vs. the guardmount and thickness of the oilpan will give me a clue. 

I also need to find a new bolt which is one size larger than the current one. 

Does anyone have a clue what bolt I should look for? Been searching pro-bolt, but can't seem to find the correct one.

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Just gauge the depth of the hole not to exceed it.

And google Helicoil if you want to keep the original bolt size.

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Spewing first thing I brought after getting my bike is a torque wrench. I have stripped and broken bolts in the past not fun.

Good luck with it. I would try drill and tap before helli coil. Should be enough meat to fix no problemo.

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Ive stripped my fair share of bolts. And it probably didnt help that the guard took away some of the thread engagement. or did it come with longer hardware?

Theres really only a few options

1) Helicoil to maintain original hardware. I would do this.

2) Drill/tap for one size up (m6 to m8 I think? or tap for farm store inch sizes if you want to be a hack).  I would not do this  because you would also have to modify the oil pan for larger bolt, not huge deal but still. And having random sized bolts everywhere is sloppy in my eyes. 

3) Obviously extreme but a new engine case.  Its like 900 bucks for a new one and requires a full tear down of the engine. Way overkill for such a minor issue but it is still an option. 


Or just roll with one bolt less on the pan. Its only the engine oil, not like it matters or anything.  🙃  Joking ofcourse



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Update on the issue: 


I've talked to my some different people

My closest Yamaha dealer:

  • No problem using HeliCoil
  • We can fix it for you while your bike is at service. (Extra charge ofc)
  • Do not drive the bike

Another Yamaha dealer: 

  • "We would never  use HeliCoil to fix that, metal residue might end up in the oilpan"
  • Suggested installation of new oilpan
  • Do not drive the bike

A mechanical advice from another person:

  • Fill with oil, let it sit and see if it seeps. Start the engine to get it warm. 
  • Can use HeliCoil or chemical metal
  • If no oilspill when hot, test drive and then drive to dealer for check-up


- For a full 20k (kilometers) service + oilpan swap + chain and sprocket replacement they wanted 1100USD. Oilpan + workhours alone was close to 400USD

This is the reason I am torn between my option/choices😕


I am not sure if the issue is clear enough. 

In the  top picture, the metal thing that looks like a HeliCoil is in fact the threads of the engineblock as far as I know. A HeliCoil is therefor maby a solution, but after one the of dealers says "Don't do it, every mechanic with some integrity would change oil pan" I am not so sure. 

BUT - The hole for the bolt in the oilpan does not have any threads, does it? If not, why on earth would I need a new oilpan? 


The oilpan only holds the oil, there is no pressure, correct? And how many bolts are there? 8? I would think the oilpan atleast wouldn't fall off during a ride with one of the bolts not tightened 100%.


New picture with red circle corresponding through the picture, don't mind the white circle. 

Oljepanne MT07.jpg

Edited by Mojo
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You don't need a new pan in this case. Ofcourse they want you to buy one, and most people would not have questioned it. Its easy money, every shop does it and I have too, its just business. 

Drain oil-->pull exhaust-->pull oil pan-->install helicoil-->reassemble. Done. Original hardware and no unrecoverable shavings.

In an afternoon tops.

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You are 100% correct... You clearly do NOT need a new oil pan! I priced an OEM oil pan (just for grins). You can buy an oil pan for $79, and I think the gasket was another $14. My personal advise would be a "heli-coil", locked in with a TINY amount of permanent thread locker between the heli-coil, and the engine block (NOT the bolt into the heli-coil). This fix would probably be the strongest option as the threads would be steel, rather than the softer material the block is made of. I would also consider NOT remounting the lower for the moto-cage, to avoid this situation in the future. Also, I would say $1100USD seems outrageous!!! I don't go to dealers for service (ever), so maybe I'm way off base?

""W.O.T. until you see god, then brake"

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Quick replies here, thanks! 

It's good to read that you're agreeing with my wallet. 


I have to call the dealer tomorrow and ask why I would need a new pan, just for the sake of him trying to explain it. 


The oil was never re-filled luckily. Let's hope the Akra Ti exhaust is easy to get off.


Update on progress will follow :) 

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