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Moved the instrument cluster


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Have not shared much but lurk here often. Being in lockdown because of the pandemic gave me enough time to tackle a project that’s been on the back burner for quite some time. Since installing the Woodcraft clip-ons the position of the instrument cluster has not worked for me. I’d have to drop my head to read it and drop it just enough that the veiw of the road ahead disappeared. Then there was the fact that to my eye the cluster, which looked fine with the stock bars, appeared to be sitting really high with the clip-ons. Well a full day of fiddling, measuring, cutting, cussing, drilling, holding my tongue just right and busting a knuckle to the bone and I got as far as the photos show. Need to clean the brackets up and paint them then it’ll be time for a ride.the end result move the dashboard forward 4” to 5” and down about 3” (that’s 10cm to 13cm forward and 7.6cm down for those of you on the other side of the pond). Sorry about the tipped over photos....




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ABS =  Audible Blinker System. The horn beebs every time I use the blinker

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Will likely consider these brackets prototypes and make a cleaner V2 set. If all goes well that should happen soon and I will share more info. 

ABS =  Audible Blinker System. The horn beebs every time I use the blinker

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Where did you relocate the keyed ignition, or is this a track-only bike? Looks much better like that-


""W.O.T. until you see god, then brake"

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I spent today, yep the whole day remaking the brackets. A few details about how this was done. First I didn’t use the base of the instrument cluster. Second because I’m an incurable hoarder I had on hand spacers that were a perfect fit over the studs on the cluster’s underside. The studs required two shorter spacers and one longer one which were made from those spacers I had. These are pictured below. The spacers might not be necessary but I felt they might add stability. The pictures below show some more of the details. The material used is commonly available 1/8” aluminum flat stock that is 2” wide. A 4’ length was about $10 at the local hardware store. After hours of measuring and sketching a template for each side was made. The template in truth is just a drawing and it was cut out and taped the aluminum with double sided tape. This was given a light coat of spray paint. The first photo is of the blank with the paper template removed after the paint dried. Next the blank was hacksawed leaving approximately 1mm of material still to be removed all around. I removed the rest with the belt sander. Holes were located and drilled next. The holes for the side with two screws was drill to 5/16”. These are oversized to allow for any extra movement needed for alignment upon installation. The side with only one screw was drilled with a #15 drill. Because there is only one screw this bracket can pivot a bit to allow fit fudging. These brackets bolt to the original holes. A critical and fiddlie step is bending the brackets to allow them to be bolted in place. If on side is slightly different or at a slightly different angle much fudging will ensue (don’t ask me how I know). I bolted both brackets to the display and held it in place above triple clamp, moving it fore and aft until I was happy with the position. With a sharpie where the bend will be is marked. Next the whole mess was clamped in a vice and rotated until it was square with the top of the vice. I checked that the top of my vice was level and then used that level in top of the cluster. The cluster was removed leaving both clamps firmly clamped in the vice. Using a mallet they are bent over. I bent them to 90 degrees but different angles can be used to offer a different angle of the display. With both brackets in the vice it’s easy to sight across them to make certain they are the same. The blanks were cut long to allow for height positioning. Finally the holes to bolt the brackets to the bike were made. I made these slots to allow side to side alignment. I also replaced the original Allen head bolts with hex head bolds because getting an Allen wench in the space available would be a PIA. The graph paper used  showing the bracket templates is 1/4”. Hope this helps.

Oh yea, the key. Mine still fits but getting it in and out is a chore.









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ABS =  Audible Blinker System. The horn beebs every time I use the blinker

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Wow that's very well detailed informations and photos,  thanks a lot for sharing !

Great work !!

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