On-off throttle not smooth.

[Decreasing Radius]

I don't know if it's just my bike, but I've a really jerky throttle. 

Each time I start from a stand still, or if I'm shifting, the bike jumps when I go back to the previous throttle position. The transition doesn't feel smooth. Also a couple of times, when starting from a stand still, there is a power cut for about 2 seconds after I accelerate. Is that due the eco mode function?

I purchased the bike with 28k on the odo and valve adjustment was done at 26k. 

I don't know whether it's the throttle cable that needs to be adjusted or some internal engine component, or maybe the throttle body. Spark plugs and injectors look good.

I've been riding for 12 years and this would be my 4th bike,so I'd like to believe  it's not my technique(I could be wrong).  Maybe I need sone more time to get use to the dynamics of this bike. 

Any input would be grateful. 

Appreciate it in advance. 

Edited July 6, 2020 by Decreasing Radius

[FZ07R WaNaB]

1 hour ago, Decreasing Radius said:

I don't know if it's just my bike, but I've a really jerky throttle. 

GET A FLASH

Seriously, do some research on this forum about getting your ECU flashed. We have a vendor (2WDW) who has done that for many of the members. It will eliminate all of the problems you talked about

 

Edited July 6, 2020 by FZ07R WaNaB

[CarGuy7a]

What all has been done to the bike performance wise pipe? Tune? other mods. This bike with stock fuel tuning is jerky in the on off throttle areas. Eco mode is just a dummy light that comes on when the bike is being used in a fuel efficient manner but when the bike goes into closed loop (when cruising at a consistent speed and throttle position) the ECU does lean the mixture out depending on readings from the O2 sensor for fuel efficiency while the engine is under light load.

The Jerkiness is all in the tune. It's in the fueling transition from 0% throttle up to about 10%. I run a PCV and richened that range to smooth the transition out and it removed most of the jerk. 

[rfmueller]

With your MC turned off, twist your throttle open and closed 25 times.  There's a wiper inside the throttle position sensor.  If it's dirty, there's a good chance the wiping effect will clean it off.  Your other option is to buy some electronics cleaning spray and use that.  Usually moisture is the culprit, and the spray will dry it out.  But make sure you've given the sensor time to dry before starting up the bike or you may end up with a fire from the sensor.

Also, in my experience, the stock tune isn't jerky, but after getting the 2wdw flash, it starts out with a kick in first gear.  2WDW says that's due from going from lean/idle to rich/tuned fuel when twisting the throttle.  It's not a bother.  The remainder of the time everything is smooth enough.

[rfmueller]

For the 2 second delay you're experiencing:  Balance your throttle bodies.   If you need a default needle valve position for the reference side (it will be turned in below the rim or above the rim if it's out of calibration), adjust the height of the top of the screw exactly even with the rim of the threading as you can get it.  Then rebalance the adjustment side to the reference side.   The auto-trim and O2 sensor will do the rest.  There is no vacuum spec, but the really old manual did specify 23mmHG, however that spec has been deleted from the newer manuals.  It was pretty much impossible to meet it since there are so many other automatic adjustments taking place, such as MAP, O2, & auto balance.

[Decreasing Radius]

1 hour ago, FZ07R WaNaB said:

GET A FLASH

Seriously, do some research on this forum about getting your ECU flashed. We have a vendor (2WDW) who has done that for many of the members. It will eliminate all of the problems you talked about

 

That what I thought of first. But wanted to get more opinions. I'm going to wait a few days to read through all replies, then make a decision. 

Thanks for your input. 

[Decreasing Radius]

1 hour ago, CarGuy7a said:

What all has been done to the bike performance wise pipe? Tune? other mods. This bike with stock fuel tuning is jerky in the on off throttle areas. Eco mode is just a dummy light that comes on when the bike is being used in a fuel efficient manner but when the bike goes into closed loop (when cruising at a consistent speed and throttle position) the ECU does lean the mixture out depending on readings from the O2 sensor for fuel efficiency while the engine is under light load.

The Jerkiness is all in the tune. It's in the fueling transition from 0% throttle up to about 10%. I run a PCV and richened that range to smooth the transition out and it removed most of the jerk. 

Sorry I forgot to mention. 

The only mod is the akrapovic titanium full exhaust (under body exit) that came with the bike. 

[FZ07R WaNaB]

1 hour ago, rfmueller said:

Also, in my experience, the stock tune isn't jerky, but after getting the 2wdw flash, it starts out with a kick in first gear. 

My experience was exactly opposite of yours. My stock tune was absolutely jerky to the point of almost being spastic (what a great choice of words). With regard to the "kick in first gear" after the 2WDW flash, I didn't experience that at all. My power delivery after the flash is super smooth from idle to redline. I would be tempted to ask Nels to reflash your ECU if you are experiencing that FWIW.

 

Edited July 6, 2020 by FZ07R WaNaB

[Decreasing Radius]

1 hour ago, rfmueller said:

With your MC turned off, twist your throttle open and closed 25 times.  There's a wiper inside the throttle position sensor.  If it's dirty, there's a good chance the wiping effect will clean it off.  Your other option is to buy some electronics cleaning spray and use that.  Usually moisture is the culprit, and the spray will dry it out.  But make sure you've given the sensor time to dry before starting up the bike or you may end up with a fire from the sensor.

Also, in my experience, the stock tune isn't jerky, but after getting the 2wdw flash, it starts out with a kick in first gear.  2WDW says that's due from going from lean/idle to rich/tuned fuel when twisting the throttle.  It's not a bother.  The remainder of the time everything is smooth enough.

I'm going to give this a try first. I work at advance auto so I've access to the cleaner. 

Thanks a lot for your input. 

[Decreasing Radius]

1 hour ago, rfmueller said:

For the 2 second delay you're experiencing:  Balance your throttle bodies.   If you need a default needle valve position for the reference side (it will be turned in below the rim or above the rim if it's out of calibration), adjust the height of the top of the screw exactly even with the rim of the threading as you can get it.  Then rebalance the adjustment side to the reference side.   The auto-trim and O2 sensor will do the rest.  There is no vacuum spec, but the really old manual did specify 23mmHG, however that spec has been deleted from the newer manuals.  It was pretty much impossible to meet it since there are so many other automatic adjustments taking place, such as MAP, O2, & auto balance.

Alright. I'm going to purchase the shop manual which I've been procrastinating on. 

Is this a tedious job?

[rfmueller]

It's kind of an "unsure" job.  The flow balance changes as the MC heats and cools with the fan.  That's probably due to the heat coming off the engine and changing the external thermostat reading, so the ECU compensates by adjusting fuel/air.  I even unplugged the O2 sensor, but it didn't make a difference.  Or maybe the MAP getting some super hot air from the engine and making changes.  But, whatever, yeah, it is kind of tedious.  It runs fine though once it's done.

[geophb]

Also make sure your drive chain is tight/to spec, that will accentuate the problem.

[Beemer]

It seems to me that after years of hearing about the problem the problem is with the fueling because everyone that's had the 2WDW flash tune said it corrected the problem. Maybe, as mentioned, twisting the throttle with the bike not running will too , I have my doubts on it for this particular bike but anything free is worth a try and it's good knowledge to have. Another option is a "Dobeck Fuel Controller" but to get the jerkiness to stop you have to set it up to deliver more fuel but I didn't like that, the bike lost it's punch/speed so I kept mine on what they called "optimal factory settings" where the bike screamed like a banshee but still had that on/off throttle jerkiness. I guess I've learned to live with it, I've had it this way for close to 5 years now. 

If the throttle twist thing doesn't work I recommend the 2WDW flash tune, it does a number of good things for your money that other solutions don't do. Check into it and you'll see for yourself. GL!

[mjh937]

I am not sure how the throttle twisting thing would make a difference on a bike that has a cable and is not “throttle by wire”. 

[DewMan]

30 minutes ago, mjh937 said:

I am not sure how the throttle twisting thing would make a difference on a bike that has a cable and is not “throttle by wire”. 

My assumption is that this could help clean up a sticking throttle tube/cable.

Unlikely IMO, with the known throttle issues of the MT/FZ-07, but if your throttle is sticking along with the inherent issues designed into the ECU, that could be dangerous. 

[geophb]

41 minutes ago, mjh937 said:

I am not sure how the throttle twisting thing would make a difference on a bike that has a cable and is not “throttle by wire”. 

There is still a throttle position sensor that can cause issues.