Oil Change

[FZWes]

I changed the oil in my 07 today. I bought four qt's of Mobile 1, knowing that the bike takes 3L or 101.+ oz. I poured in the three qts which is 96 oz, and poured in about 4 oz from the last bottle. I leveled out thebike and peered into the site glass and it's full almost to the top of the glass. I have heard from other owners that it should read somewhere in the middle of the glass, is this right or not?

Thank you 

FZWes

[cornerslider]

Did you start the bike after filling it? Once the oil filter gets "filled" with oil, the level should drop slightly-

[mjh937]

17 minutes ago, FZWes said:

I changed the oil in my 07 today. I bought four qt's of Mobile 1, knowing that the bike takes 3L or 101.+ oz. I poured in the three qts which is 96 oz, and poured in about 4 oz from the last bottle. I leveled out thebike and peered into the site glass and it's full almost to the top of the glass. I have heard from other owners that it should read somewhere in the middle of the glass, is this right or not?

Thank you 

FZWes

As long as it is somewhere in the window you are fine.  You just do not want it overfilled (or underfilled).  If you did change the filter then you will want to run it for a minute then let it stand for a couple of minutes and check it just as @cornerslider said. 

[FZWes]

Ill check it out in the morning. It just doesn't make sense to me.

Thank you

[blackout]

22 hours ago, FZWes said:

I changed the oil in my 07 today. I bought four qt's of Mobile 1, knowing that the bike takes 3L or 101.+ oz. I poured in the three qts which is 96 oz, and poured in about 4 oz from the last bottle. I leveled out thebike and peered into the site glass and it's full almost to the top of the glass. I have heard from other owners that it should read somewhere in the middle of the glass, is this right or not?

Thank you 

FZWes

I thought our bikes took 2.7 quarts?

[D.A.]

6 hours ago, blackout said:

I thought our bikes took 2.7 quarts?

Correct!

The total oil capacity of the engine is 3L (101.44 US oz.) but that only applies to a bone dry engine which has just been assembled (or reassembled). When simply changing the oil (or oil & filter) you put in less. If he poured-in 3L, he overfilled it.

Here’s what the service manual says:

ENGINE OIL QUANTITY 
• Quantity (disassembled)
3.00 L (3.17 US qt, 2.64 Imp.qt)
• Without oil filter cartridge re- placement
2.30 L (2.43 US qt, 2.02 Imp.qt) 
• With oil filter cartridge replacement
2.60 L (2.75 US qt, 2.29 Imp.qt)

With that being said, @FZWes, there is apparently a discrepancy between the amount of oil the manual specifies and the level indicated in the window on the engine. My experience (and several other forum members’ experience) has shown that if you remove the drain plug, thoroughly drain the oil, replace the filter, then pour in the recommended 2.75 US quarts of fresh oil, let it circulate and let the bike rest for a few minutes, the level will be a smidge above the top of the viewing window, making it look like you’ve overfilled the engine. 

At that point you have to  ask yourself: did the engineers flub the design of the window, rendering it inaccurate, or did the writers put the wrong quantities in the specs, making the literature inaccurate?

When I’m refilling my oil I pour in 2 US quarts, then slowly add small amounts while watching the level rise in the window. When the level reaches the top hashmark I start the engine and let the bike idle for a few minutes so the oil can circulate through the system and fill the new filter. I do this with the bike on a rear stand so I can put it in gear and get the transmission turning too so oil circulates through the gearbox. If you don’t have a stand to do this you can ride the bike once around the block.

After the oil has had a chance to circulate, I kill the engine and let the bike sit for about 10 minutes. Then I add small amounts of oil again, as I watch the level, until it almost reaches the top of the window, leaving just enough air at the top to see the actual level.

Feel free to search the archives regarding this issue. It’s been discussed many times over the years. 

Edited August 24, 2020 by D.A.

[rfmueller]

Perhaps you've already posted this, but how does your bike run after the dyno-tune?  how's start-out?

Second, if your bike shifts hard after it gets hot, pull a cup of oil out.  It'll return to normal.  The heated oil expands, so might be touch too much if you're at the top of the site glass while cool.

[D.A.]

10 minutes ago, rfmueller said:

Perhaps you've already posted this, but how does your bike run after the dyno-tune?  how's start-out?

Second, if your bike shifts hard after it gets hot, pull a cup of oil out.  It'll return to normal.

Hi @rfmueller: I assume you are addressing me rather than the original poster. If so, I did get my flashed ECU back from 2WDW a couple of days ago and have been putting the bike through its paces ever since. There are a few things I want to discuss with 2WDW before I post my results / impressions. Also, I’m leaving on vacation tomorrow which will further delay that report but I promise to link you when I post it. Thx!

[rfmueller]

Cool.  Sounds good.  I am just finishing a week long vacation myself.  Have a nice one.

[00RAH]

 ...

Edited August 30, 2020 by 00RAH
Trolling

[rfmueller]

11 hours ago, 00RAH said:

IF YOUR BIKES RUNNING A LITTLE ROUGH RUN IT WITH NO OIL FOR ABOUT 5 MINUTES. THAT WILL GENTLY GRIND THE ENGINE AND MAKE IT ALL NICE AND SMOOTH FOR WHEN YOU PUT OIL IN. ALTERTINATIVELY YOU CAN RUN NO-OIL LIKE THEY DO IN MOTOGP (FOR MAX POWER) HOWEVER ENGINE LIFE WILL BE SIGNIFICANTLY REDUCED. 

Yes, and also remember to rotate the air in your tires seasonally (they'll spin more easily on fresh air), as well as removing the anti-freeze during the summer months so the engine doesn't over heat (It lightens the load as well).  

And if anybody takes any of that advice, they should not be riding a motorcycle or allowed to operate any potentially dangerous equipment, machinery, or tooling (not even a fingernail clipper).