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Oil kind? M4 exhuast add on


Sean

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I had a quick question,  what weight oil do you think is the best for winter riding in California?    I am installing an aftermarket exhuast on my fz07 on Tuesday,  its the m4 slip on.  Cuts 9 pounds of weight off and gets fide of the cat,  VERY EXCITED.   Any advice? 

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Just now, Sean said:

Do you think a ecu flush is necessary? Alot of guys I've seen havnt bothered i just don't want it to be super poppy 

The M4 is a tame upgrade, let-er buck.

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Thank you.    You use Yamalube I presume? Full synthetic or regular.  I saw a video the other day of a guy who said he had to flash ecu when replacing the air filter, I can't see how that'd be necessary.  What do you think? I have about 7,000 miles 

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Hang on there you're redlined in neutral, lol! Your enthusiasm is awesome! 

First off, any reputable motorcycle specific oil is plenty good for these robust machines. Your pick of dino or synthetic is fine. Just make sure it's formulated for "wet clutches" and you'll be fine. You'll never go wrong with Yamalube. 

Watch videos, read magazines, view online articles but beware, there's a lot of suspect information floating around. Many of the problems encountered by riders/home mechanics is self imposed, created by their own well meaning but misinformed attempts to 'fix it'. Ask questions when confused. With just a properly installed pipe and/or an air filter your bike will not 'need' a flash altho one would certainly benefit you down the road if you plan to add further modifications. 

 

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18 hours ago, Sean said:

 flash ecu.... I can't see how that'd be necessary

Don't think about a flash as "necessary".

Think about your engine having been intentionally detuned by the factory. Your flash sets it free to be what it was intended by the laws of thermodynamics. You will appreciate it, performance and civility wise

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So far so good. I installed the m4 yesterday, went for a brief ride and I am pretty surprised,  fairly loud, sounds great. Still have not removed the db killer to see how much louder it is but may try later.   Thank you for the information.  Will consider doing a flash as soon as I can. ( tight on money at the moment ) 

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1 hour ago, Sean said:

 Will consider doing a flash as soon as I can

Don't miss the black friday sale at 2wdw, on sale thru Friday a flash is only $219. That's a steal amigo

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We specialize in motorcycle performance modifications...

 

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Saw a guy on a ninja 1000 he said I should go up 2 teeth on my sprocket,  didn't understand exactly why.  Any thoughts.  Thanks 

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1 hour ago, Sean said:

Saw a guy on a ninja 1000 he said I should go up 2 teeth on my sprocket,  didn't understand exactly why.  Any thoughts.  Thanks 

First off, never trust a guy on a Ninja. Jeez everyone knows that. 😃

Seriously 2 up on back sprocket = lower gearing, higher rpm at cruise speed, better wheelies at low speed, better acceleration (to a point). Down 2 outback = opposite.

Some folks look at 1 up or down on front sprocket. Opposite function but same net effect; 1 down lower overall gearing, 1 up taller gearing. 

1 tooth front same as 3 teeth rear.

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Thank you.  Overall it sounds like a good idea. May look into it.  Higher rpms at cruising speed would sound good with the pipe and faster take offs at lights dead stops etc sounds good and I've still not gotten wheelies down so maybe that'll help. I can do little baby ones but still haven't gotten it up and held it.   I tried today a few times but no success haha 

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Thank you.  Overall it sounds like a good idea. May look into it.  Higher rpms at cruising speed would sound good with the pipe and faster take offs at lights dead stops etc sounds good and I've still not gotten wheelies down so maybe that'll help. I can do little baby ones but still haven't gotten it up and held it.   I tried today a few times but no success haha 

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Literally just took my bike out and got 100 feet down the road and turned a corner going about 20 mph and my bike slide out from under me lol..  frigging sucks! Scraped the shet out of my pipe, bent my bar alittle bit broke my brake lever scraped the crap out of my arm and leg and hand lol..... dang 

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  • 8 months later...
On 11/22/2020 at 4:12 AM, mossrider said:

First off, any reputable motorcycle specific oil is plenty good for these robust machines. Your pick of dino or synthetic is fine. Just make sure it's formulated for "wet clutches" and you'll be fine. You'll never go wrong with Yamalube. 

 

Just for the sake of clarity, the oil certification for wet clutches is called JASO MA.  That means it does non contain friction modifiers that will interfere with the operation of a wet clutch.

I've used all kinds of oils in my motorcycles over the years, from Amsoil to basically every factory oil and also Rotella T6, which is a synthetic diesel oil but some old-timers swear by it.  Basically if it's the right weight and JASO MA you're pretty safe, the safest bet being the factory brand synthetic.

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Some of the Rotella has the JASO-MA rating, you look on the back of the jug or bottle.  I was running it in my KLX250 dual sport.  In my XSR  I am running Yamalube, because I decided to buy a gallon and a quart one day at the dealership.   I don't get too worried about dyno or synthetic, not like I need any extra power.

I will say the temperature range in California is so narrow compared to the north mid-west and because of that the 10w40 or whatever Yamaha put in it will do fine.   If you were riding a fair amount in the colder climate areas you might drop one range and if in the hotter areas, maybe go up one, but the fact is the 5w-40 and 10w-40 will work fine in the continental 48 states for most riders' "season" for riding.

When it came to exhausts I checked with the manufacturer - in my case Delkevic - to see if a reflash was needed.  Their response on the system I got was "no".

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