ECU flash questions for Yamaha FZ07

[shinyribs]

7 hours ago, D.A. said:

I’m genuinely glad this worked out well for you! 

I had hoped to feel that way too after I had my ECU flashed by 2WDW. But that did not happen. Post-flash, I noticed the decrease in engine braking and that the fan came on at a lower temperature but I did not detect any improvement in performance.

Reading your description makes me wonder if the discrepancy in our results is due to a difference in how our bikes ran prior to having them flashed.

Before buying an FZ-07, I had spent several years riding the second of two ZX-10Rs I have owned. At the time, I was looking for a more street-friendly daily rider to add to the stable, hoping for something fun to ride but inexpensive to own. And a used FZ-07 seemed to fit the bill. 

When I climbed aboard the FZ for the initial test ride, I honestly wasn’t expecting much in terms of performance. I assumed it would pale in comparison to my Kawasaki liter-bikes. And I was fine with that.

I pulled the FZ out onto the street in first gear, twisted the throttle in what I thought was a casual manner and Bam! the front wheel abruptly jolted about a foot and a half off the ground. As the wheel came down I accelerated a bit, shifted up to second gear, let out the clutch and once again Bam! the front wheel lifted up about a foot. Wow, was I surprised!

That was all the test ride I needed! I immediately went back and bought the machine. 

As time went on, the only complaint I had about the FZ was how twitchy it seemed at small throttle openings. I set out on a quest to rectify that issue and that’s what led me to 2WDW. Unfortunately their flash did not noticeably reduce twitchiness (nor increase power) on my bike, but reading your post makes me think that’s because my FZ was already running really well to begin with so maybe there’s wasn’t much room for improvement. And I can’t explain why. I bought the bike used and the previous owner — who bought it new — swears he did nothing to it other than install a fender eliminator. 

This discussion made me recall another anecdote:

Shortly after I joined this forum 18 months ago, another member exuberantly wrote that his FZ ran like a raped ape after 2WDW flashed it. And I remember thinking, “That’s exactly how my bike runs now, and it’s completely stock!”

I don’t know what the opposite of a Lemon is but perhaps that’s what I bought. 

I suppose I'm in the exact same boat as you. My stock bone easily comes up in second. It often comes up in third and will occasionally blip the front end up in fourth depending on the road. I'm always a bit confused when I read about someone being surprised that a 07 will power wheelie in second. I too would like to have a smoother throttle, but I'm not convinced a flash can give it, and reading your post makes me even less convinced. 

There's just too many cons for me. Having to run high test sucks. That stuff is an extra $0.75/gallon here. And in conjunction with that, I don't want my fuel mileage dropping 15+ mpg ( which seems to be the average result of what I've read). Shoving that much extra fuel through and engine, along with all the additives that make high octane fuel what it is, seems like a perfect recipe for serious carbon build up inside an engine. 

Yeah, sometimes I wonder if my bike runs better than it's supposed to for some reason? I can't get any more out of it in first and second. It already seems like the front tire hates the road as it is. Suspension is the only thing these bikes need, and it's wonderful when it's right.

 

[shinyribs]

On 4/30/2021 at 12:29 PM, nacapster said:

I'll take the extra cooling fuel. And the difference between regular and premium is what, 50 cents a gallon? So it will cost another buck something at each fill up. I don't mind an extra buck per fill up for a little more performance from the advanced timing. You guys should try snowmobiling, we get about 15 mpg  and premium fuel is recommended for all the high performance models. So if my bike takes premium and goes from 50 mpg to 45, not a big deal. For me the reduced engine braking alone will be worth it. I'm not expecting a night and day power increase but I'm hoping it's at least noticeable. 

If a company programmed your ecu to deliver so much fuel that it can aid in actually cooling the engine any noticeable amount... it'd wash the oil off your cylinder walls like a solvent. 

Also, most stock bike's fuel mileage seems to land in the 52-57mpg range. I've seen several reports of low 30's fuel mileage after flashing. That's absurd imo. My 1976 CB750F got 40+ through shitty old worn out carbs. Hell, my dirt bike will get 60 through a carb and makes the 07 feel slow.

I dunno....no disrespect to you, but I'd say don't believe the hype. 

[seven]

I have no idea how you all seem to so easily lift the front wheel. I admit I don't think I have actually hit full throttle except maybe on a highway in 6th and I opened it up with a good amount of throttle twist...but I can't say I hit the end of the throttle travel.

I want to practice actually lifting the front wheel, not to do wheelies like a hooligan, but so that I am aware what it feels like and if it does happen unexpectedly that I don't lose my mind.

Hell I remember the warnings I was given about the bike being I am a new rider and the MT-07 is my beginner bike and that I needed to be so careful. I have never had a "holy sh!t" moment on the bike other than the low speed abrupt off/on throttle hit which is not terribly scary really. Perhaps all the warnings has made me very tame with the throttle right from the beginning.

To me when someone says "rolling on the throttle" I think smooth throttle application where you might be trying to accelerate hard but you aren't trying to initiate a wheelie or kick the back end out. I am sure if I yanked the throttle aggressively I could lift the wheel but damn, I can already easily be far in front of all traffic from a light and the front wheel doesn't ever feel like it is getting light. Probably just me though.

[connoroonie]

1 hour ago, seven said:

I have no idea how you all seem to so easily lift the front wheel. I admit I don't think I have actually hit full throttle except maybe on a highway in 6th and I opened it up with a good amount of throttle twist...but I can't say I hit the end of the throttle travel.

I want to practice actually lifting the front wheel, not to do wheelies like a hooligan, but so that I am aware what it feels like and if it does happen unexpectedly that I don't lose my mind.

Hell I remember the warnings I was given about the bike being I am a new rider and the MT-07 is my beginner bike and that I needed to be so careful. I have never had a "holy sh!t" moment on the bike other than the low speed abrupt off/on throttle hit which is not terribly scary really. Perhaps all the warnings has made me very tame with the throttle right from the beginning.

To me when someone says "rolling on the throttle" I think smooth throttle application where you might be trying to accelerate hard but you aren't trying to initiate a wheelie or kick the back end out. I am sure if I yanked the throttle aggressively I could lift the wheel but damn, I can already easily be far in front of all traffic from a light and the front wheel doesn't ever feel like it is getting light. Probably just me though.

I’m in the same boat with my bike. When I first got it from the dealer I remember the front wheel coming up easily but that might be because I was coming from a grom and my throttle hand wasn’t used to the extra power. If I want to get the front wheel to come up in second now, I have to really crank it open and sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn’t. 
 

[mt7fan]

I have a 2016 stock EU-Mt07 and never had a wheeley although I've done some hard riding on twisty mountain roads constantly pushing to the 7-8000 rpm range. 

[XATTILAX]

16 hours ago, nacapster said:

Got my ECU back today, mailed it in last Tuesday so less than a week turn around. Just went for a quick 14 mile rip and oh hell yeah it makes a difference! Just rolling on the throttle in first gear the front end comes right up, it didn’t do that before. It’s even coming up a little bit in second gear, about what it used to do in first. And this is with no clutch and no yanking the bars. The bike is noticeably quicker. And the reduced engine braking is really nice. The bike is so much smoother and easier to ride. Oh, and the extra intake noise is nice and throaty. The 2WDW flash was worth every penny and that is my only mod at this point, well that and yanking the air box snorkel. My OEM R6 throttle tube is still in my brief case. I wanted to know how much was the tune / intake mod and how much was just being deeper into the throttle with the same amount of twist at the grip.

Im a beginner and im scared to pop wheelies if i get the ecu tuned to accommodate my full akrapovic exhaust does that mean i will pop wheelies more. My objective is to not to i weigh 160lbs what do you think?

[D.A.]

1 hour ago, XATTILAX said:

...if i get the ecu tuned to accommodate my full akrapovic exhaust...

Was the Akrapovic system already on the bike when you bought it or is it something you added after you got it? If it was already on the bike, the previous owner may have had the ECU flashed.

If you’re certain it has not been flashed, you should get it flashed because your fueling needs to be adjusted to accommodate the non-stock exhaust. If it’s not adjusted, the motor will not run as well as it should. 

In regards to wheeling, yes, I’d say there’s a strong possibility your front wheel will unexpectedly lift off the ground on occasion and you will therefore have to be super-diligent in the way you twist the throttle. The bike is not going to spontaneously pop up into a legit balance-point wheelie like you see stunters doing in YouTube videos but the front end will often feel light and not want to stay on the ground. And the Akrapovic will make that even more likely because of the extra horsepower it adds.

This is why a lot of people — myself included — think the FZ/MT-07 is not a great bike for beginners. It has way too much power. Much easier to learn and build basic skills on a used Ninja 250 or a small dirt bike or similar — something with power that’s less-intimidating and something you don’t mind dropping because in all likelihood, you’re going to drop a bike a few times as you learn to ride. 

You can learn on an FZ/MT. You just have to be a lot more careful. 

Edited May 4, 2021 by D.A.

[nacapster]

3 hours ago, XATTILAX said:

Im a beginner and im scared to pop wheelies if i get the ecu tuned to accommodate my full akrapovic exhaust does that mean i will pop wheelies more. My objective is to not to i weigh 160lbs what do you think?

You have to be purposely accelerating hard for the front end to come up, it won't happen by accident. But yeah, in first gear, with the tune, if you get on it from a crawl she comes right up. I had over 450 miles on the bike before I had it tuned and it never did that before...

[XATTILAX]

2 hours ago, nacapster said:

You have to be purposely accelerating hard for the front end to come up, it won't happen by accident. But yeah, in first gear, with the tune, if you get on it from a crawl she comes right up. I had over 450 miles on the bike before I had it tuned and it never did that before...

So do you think I shouldn’t get it tuned and just leave the akropovic on it and nothing major will happen ? 

[XATTILAX]

3 hours ago, D.A. said:

Was the Akrapovic system already on the bike when you bought it or is it something you added after you got it? If it was already on the bike, the previous owner may have had the ECU flashed.

If you’re certain it has not been flashed, you should get it flashed because your fueling needs to be adjusted to accommodate the non-stock exhaust. If it’s not adjusted, the motor will not run as well as it should. 

In regards to wheeling, yes, I’d say there’s a strong possibility your front wheel will unexpectedly lift off the ground on occasion and you will therefore have to be super-diligent in the way you twist the throttle. The bike is not going to spontaneously pop up into a legit balance-point wheelie like you see stunters doing in YouTube videos but the front end will often feel light and not want to stay on the ground. And the Akrapovic will make that even more likely because of the extra horsepower it adds.

This is why a lot of people — myself included — think the FZ/MT-07 is not a great bike for beginners. It has way too much power. Much easier to learn and build basic skills on a used Ninja 250 or a small dirt bike or similar — something with power that’s less-intimidating and something you don’t mind dropping because in all likelihood, you’re going to drop a bike a few times as you learn to ride. 

You can learn on an FZ/MT. You just have to be a lot more careful. 

I talked to the previous owner he put the akropovic on but he never tuned it! So it must be tuned in just thinking it over because people are saying after the tune it’s likely to pop up ! 

[XATTILAX]

2 hours ago, nacapster said:

You have to be purposely accelerating hard for the front end to come up, it won't happen by accident. But yeah, in first gear, with the tune, if you get on it from a crawl she comes right up. I had over 450 miles on the bike before I had it tuned and it never did that before...

Also what do you mean by a crawl you mean cranking it like twisting the throttle to fast or suddenly ? 

[nacapster]

1 minute ago, XATTILAX said:

I talked to the previous owner he put the akropovic on but he never tuned it! So it must be tuned in just thinking it over because people are saying after the tune it’s likely to pop up ! 

Only if you purposely accelerate really hard. Just have it tuned and don’t worry about it. 

[shinyribs]

12 hours ago, seven said:

I have no idea how you all seem to so easily lift the front wheel. I admit I don't think I have actually hit full throttle except maybe on a highway in 6th and I opened it up with a good amount of throttle twist...but I can't say I hit the end of the throttle travel.

I want to practice actually lifting the front wheel, not to do wheelies like a hooligan, but so that I am aware what it feels like and if it does happen unexpectedly that I don't lose my mind.

Hell I remember the warnings I was given about the bike being I am a new rider and the MT-07 is my beginner bike and that I needed to be so careful. I have never had a "holy sh!t" moment on the bike other than the low speed abrupt off/on throttle hit which is not terribly scary really. Perhaps all the warnings has made me very tame with the throttle right from the beginning.

To me when someone says "rolling on the throttle" I think smooth throttle application where you might be trying to accelerate hard but you aren't trying to initiate a wheelie or kick the back end out. I am sure if I yanked the throttle aggressively I could lift the wheel but damn, I can already easily be far in front of all traffic from a light and the front wheel doesn't ever feel like it is getting light. Probably just me though.

My bike is stock other than an Arrow exhaust, but there's no power to be gained or lost with that exhaust. It's purely for fun. I only mention that to say that wheelie'ing on the bike is no different with pipes than when it was 1 mile old.

I've also rarely ever had the throttle 100% open, but that's not where you want to be when wheelie'ing anyway.

First gear, it's hard to keep the front down at anything resembling a quick throttle opening. Anything above 1/4 throttle is insta wheelie. Once your up to 35-40mph you can really whack the throttle in first and the bike won't jump up.

I typically roll through intersections in second and let the bike chug. Whatever the rpms work out to be when the bike is in second gear and rolling about 20-25 mph is the happy spot for this bike to come up. In second under these conditions a quick blip to half throttle will lift the front a good foot off the ground. Gradually roll the throttle on as the speed picks up and you can carry that low wheelie up to about 60mph and ease it down. It feels amazing and looks damn cool carrying that front wheel out a could hundred feet while your buddies are banging gears. Third gear wheelies require body english to get any height. But hunkered down on the bars banging through the gears, front tire always pats the ground going on to third. Fourth isn't uncommon.

 

If you really want to practice I would recommend second gear. First gear wheelies on these bikes are not violent, but they can be rather abrupt. Very easy to get caught off guard. In second the bike comes up smoother. Also, since you're carrying some momentum, the bike is more stable than waking speed wheelies. Slow wheelies are super hard as you have to balance the bike side to side ( like it's trying to flop on it's side), with a bit of speed that goes away. 

p.s.- Never leave your shifter toe under the lever when practicing. If the bike comes up a bit higher or faster than expected you'll have a tendency to crouch in to the bike. That's a good thing, but you'll lift your toe as you crouch. Nothing sucks more than a bike coming up a bit fast and you accidentally click up a gear. The higher gear won't kill the power and sit the bike down. You've already made the power to get the bike up, the higher gear will increase the wheel speed and stand the bike up even higher as the now faster rear tire will shoot under the bike trying to outrun the front tire. Which is all a wheelie is.

Toes on the pegs and get after it

 

p.p.s.- the underdamped stock shock will absorb the weight shift when you go to wheelie, then unload. It's sketchy. If you're practicing with the stock shock crank the spring tight. A collapsing rear suspension will require more abrupt application of power to wheelie since it soaks up the energy. Watch the hooligans wheelie on dirt bikes ( not sumos) on city street. The "bike life" types. You'll see nearly all those rear shocks locked up. Spring tight, damping tight...bike won't squat...and you end up with two fiddies easily throwing the front up at 50mph. It's more finesse and setup then it is brutal application of power.

Practice safe. Have fun. Good luck

[D.A.]

3 hours ago, XATTILAX said:

I talked to the previous owner he put the akropovic on but he never tuned it! So it must be tuned in just thinking it over because people are saying after the tune it’s likely to pop up !

The catalytic converter and muffler on a stock bike create a lot of backpressure, meaning they restrict airflow through the engine. An aftermarket exhaust system like your Akrapovic eliminates the catalytic converter and comes with a less restrictive baffle in the muffler, reducing backpressure and making the bike louder than stock.

Because the Akrapovic improves exhaust flow, it's also likely to cause your engine to run leaner than it should by messing up the air/fuel ratio; i.e., by pulling in too much air and not enough fuel. Flashing the ECU will correct the air/fuel ratio so your engine runs its best with the new exhaust system.

After flashing, your FZ should make a few more horsepower but you're not in the kind of situation where the bike is a total dud right now and after flashing it will pop wheelies every 20 feet. The change won't be that drastic. In fact, you may not notice any difference whatsoever, especially since (if I understand your situation correctly) you have not yet had an opportunity to ride your bike.

As you've probably figured out from my previous posts, I'm not a huge fan of having the ECU flashed – IF, that is, your bike is completely STOCK. But since you already have the Akrapovic installed, your best bet is to go ahead and get it flashed.

Edited May 5, 2021 by D.A.

[seven]

11 minutes ago, shinyribs said:

First gear, it's hard to keep the front down at anything resembling a quick throttle opening. Anything above 1/4 throttle is insta wheelie.

This is so strange to me, not only do I feel like I use at least 1/4 but I also have a 44T sprocket in the rear which should make it even happier to wheelie. I feel like I am learning exactly how little I am in tune with what I feel or am doing on the bike...like I feel I am using 1/4 throttle and it's really 1/8. 

[seven]

23 minutes ago, shinyribs said:

p.p.s.- the underdamped stock shock will absorb the weight shift when you go to wheelie, then unload. It's sketchy. If you're practicing with the stock shock crank the spring tight. A collapsing rear suspension will require more abrupt application of power to wheelie since it soaks up the energy. Watch the hooligans wheelie on dirt bikes ( not sumos) on city street. The "bike life" types. You'll see nearly all those rear shocks locked up. Spring tight, damping tight...bike won't squat...and you end up with two fiddies easily throwing the front up at 50mph. It's more finesse and setup then it is brutal application of power.

Practice safe. Have fun. Good luck

I should have added this in my previous reply, I believe I have my rear shock set to the lowest setting as just sitting on the bike I get little sag...I am 155lbs in my birthday suit. Although I think the stock 2019 shock is stiffer than the previous generation shock.

[stickshift]

2 minutes ago, seven said:

I should have added this in my previous reply, I believe I have my rear shock set to the lowest setting as just sitting on the bike I get little sag...I am 155lbs in my birthday suit. Although I think the stock 2019 shock is stiffer than the previous generation shock.

If you ride along in first gear at a steady 20mph and open the throttle QUICK half way or more - it will wheelie!

As to how easily the front will come up: it depends on the gear you’re in, revs and how quickly you open the throttle. Can also clutch it up in third gear...

None of the year models are significantly different in how they like to wheelie.

[shinyribs]

21 minutes ago, seven said:

This is so strange to me, not only do I feel like I use at least 1/4 but I also have a 44T sprocket in the rear which should make it even happier to wheelie. I feel like I am learning exactly how little I am in tune with what I feel or am doing on the bike...like I feel I am using 1/4 throttle and it's really 1/8. 

This is one reason I hate quick turn throttles. The more modulation available the easier it is to get a feel for things.

The best thing any of us can do is realize we're not in tune, then cautiously work our way in. Years of accidentally whiskey throttling dirt bikes and dumping bikes leads to years of slowly learning to reign it in. One day, it just kinda clicks in your head. The biggest mistake anyone can make on any bike is not being able to admit their shortcomings and get hurt from it.

I was in my late twenties and going on a ride with a guy I met at a local bike shop. Two blocks in to the ride and he waved me in to a parking lot. " Dude, you're kinda wobbly. We need to work on your low speed stuff". We spent hours in that parking lot as he taught me things I didn't even know I needed to learn. Hurt my pride a bit at first, but looking back it's one of the best days I ever had. I learned a TON and he likely saved my life by not being afraid to speak up. RIP Monty....

[XATTILAX]

9 hours ago, D.A. said:

The catalytic converter and muffler on a stock bike create a lot of backpressure, meaning they restrict airflow through the engine. An aftermarket exhaust system like your Akrapovic eliminates the catalytic converter and comes with a less restrictive baffle in the muffler, reducing backpressure and making the bike louder than stock.

Because the Akrapovic improves exhaust flow, it's also likely to cause your engine to run leaner than it should by messing up the air/fuel ratio; i.e., by pulling in too much air and not enough fuel. Flashing the ECU will correct the air/fuel ratio so your engine runs its best with the new exhaust system.

After flashing, your FZ should make a few more horsepower but you're not in the kind of situation where the bike is a total dud right now and after flashing it will pop wheelies every 20 feet. The change won't be that drastic. In fact, you may not notice any difference whatsoever, especially since (if I understand your situation correctly) you have not yet had an opportunity to ride your bike.

As you've probably figured out from my previous posts, I'm not a huge fan of having the ECU flashed – IF, that is, your bike is completely STOCK. But since you already have the Akrapovic installed, your best bet is to go ahead and get it flashed.

Ok thx I’ll take your recommendation and I’m going to get it flashed before my dad gets home so when he gets home all we have to do is take it to my dads friends shop make sure everything is good than change the title register it and get insurance and I’m off on the road ! By the way I sighted up for an msf course it’s for 2 days !

[XATTILAX]

9 hours ago, D.A. said:

The catalytic converter and muffler on a stock bike create a lot of backpressure, meaning they restrict airflow through the engine. An aftermarket exhaust system like your Akrapovic eliminates the catalytic converter and comes with a less restrictive baffle in the muffler, reducing backpressure and making the bike louder than stock.

Because the Akrapovic improves exhaust flow, it's also likely to cause your engine to run leaner than it should by messing up the air/fuel ratio; i.e., by pulling in too much air and not enough fuel. Flashing the ECU will correct the air/fuel ratio so your engine runs its best with the new exhaust system.

After flashing, your FZ should make a few more horsepower but you're not in the kind of situation where the bike is a total dud right now and after flashing it will pop wheelies every 20 feet. The change won't be that drastic. In fact, you may not notice any difference whatsoever, especially since (if I understand your situation correctly) you have not yet had an opportunity to ride your bike.

As you've probably figured out from my previous posts, I'm not a huge fan of having the ECU flashed – IF, that is, your bike is completely STOCK. But since you already have the Akrapovic installed, your best bet is to go ahead and get it flashed.

One more question do you think I should remove the snorkel and did you leave your 02 censor in after getting the flash ?

[seven]

3 hours ago, XATTILAX said:

One more question do you think I should remove the snorkel and did you leave your 02 censor in after getting the flash ?

2WDW recommends removing the snorkel even on a stock bike. I don't think there is any reason to remove the O2 sensor.

[XATTILAX]

15 hours ago, shinyribs said:

My bike is stock other than an Arrow exhaust, but there's no power to be gained or lost with that exhaust. It's purely for fun. I only mention that to say that wheelie'ing on the bike is no different with pipes than when it was 1 mile old.

I've also rarely ever had the throttle 100% open, but that's not where you want to be when wheelie'ing anyway.

First gear, it's hard to keep the front down at anything resembling a quick throttle opening. Anything above 1/4 throttle is insta wheelie. Once your up to 35-40mph you can really whack the throttle in first and the bike won't jump up.

I typically roll through intersections in second and let the bike chug. Whatever the rpms work out to be when the bike is in second gear and rolling about 20-25 mph is the happy spot for this bike to come up. In second under these conditions a quick blip to half throttle will lift the front a good foot off the ground. Gradually roll the throttle on as the speed picks up and you can carry that low wheelie up to about 60mph and ease it down. It feels amazing and looks damn cool carrying that front wheel out a could hundred feet while your buddies are banging gears. Third gear wheelies require body english to get any height. But hunkered down on the bars banging through the gears, front tire always pats the ground going on to third. Fourth isn't uncommon.

 

If you really want to practice I would recommend second gear. First gear wheelies on these bikes are not violent, but they can be rather abrupt. Very easy to get caught off guard. In second the bike comes up smoother. Also, since you're carrying some momentum, the bike is more stable than waking speed wheelies. Slow wheelies are super hard as you have to balance the bike side to side ( like it's trying to flop on it's side), with a bit of speed that goes away. 

p.s.- Never leave your shifter toe under the lever when practicing. If the bike comes up a bit higher or faster than expected you'll have a tendency to crouch in to the bike. That's a good thing, but you'll lift your toe as you crouch. Nothing sucks more than a bike coming up a bit fast and you accidentally click up a gear. The higher gear won't kill the power and sit the bike down. You've already made the power to get the bike up, the higher gear will increase the wheel speed and stand the bike up even higher as the now faster rear tire will shoot under the bike trying to outrun the front tire. Which is all a wheelie is.

Toes on the pegs and get after it

 

p.p.s.- the underdamped stock shock will absorb the weight shift when you go to wheelie, then unload. It's sketchy. If you're practicing with the stock shock crank the spring tight. A collapsing rear suspension will require more abrupt application of power to wheelie since it soaks up the energy. Watch the hooligans wheelie on dirt bikes ( not sumos) on city street. The "bike life" types. You'll see nearly all those rear shocks locked up. Spring tight, damping tight...bike won't squat...and you end up with two fiddies easily throwing the front up at 50mph. It's more finesse and setup then it is brutal application of power.

Practice safe. Have fun. Good luck

So basically if I tighten the rear shock their is less chance for a wheelie ? 

[shinyribs]

9 minutes ago, XATTILAX said:

So basically if I tighten the rear shock their is less chance for a wheelie ? 

Sorry, the opposite actually. A soft rear suspension will just let the bike squat because it'll soak up the energy you're trying to use to lift the front. With a stiff rear shock the energy goes straight in to lifting the front.