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Shifting question


JacobJ265@gmail.co

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JacobJ265@gmail.co

I have a yfz450 and when I shift from neutral to first gear the bike jerks slightly forward which is normal. On my fz07 when I shift from neutral to first it jerks forward a bit harder and the whole bike probably jumps over an inch forward. Is this something that's normal for fz07 or do you guys think my clutch is nearing the end of its life. I'm a new rider to motorcycles but not to a manual gear box. I've rode tons of dirtbikes and sport quads but I don't think I've ever experienced a bike slipping in gear quite that hard I'm wondering if maybe it's just how these bikes are. The bike shifts fine when riding. Anyone else noticed this? 

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As  long as your idle speed is within spec I don't think you'll have a problem.  The sign of a clutch getting worn out is slipping under high power.  I assume when you shift into first the engine RPM doesn't drop a lot, which would be a symptom of the clutch cable being out of adjustment.

Any motorcycle can have its clutch plates stick to each other a little if they've been sitting unused for a while though.  That'll cause more lurching forward than usual the first time the bike is shifted into gear after sitting.

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The reason your FZ lurches forward harder than your YZ is because of the bigger, heavier internals of the FZ. Those larger spinning parts can't stop as easy as the smaller YZ parts, so the bike gets a jolt. 

Normal, but totally annoying. I hate that sound/sensation!

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I usually hold the pulled clutch lever for some seconds before engaging 1st. I am still not sure whether it makes any difference though. I feel it should.

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Just do it! 

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7 minutes ago, robbo10 said:

I usually hold the pulled clutch lever for some seconds before engaging 1st. I am still not sure whether it makes any difference though. I feel it should.

Hmmm... if the transmission's input shaft actually slows down a lot it should help quite a bit.    I'm used to motorcycles with draggy clutches, and it won't help them, but I'll try it with my MT next time I ride it and see if it helps.

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It's pretty normal. Some things I've read in the past that may help out:

- wait until the bike warms up a bit and once warm, pull the clutch in and hold it for a few seconds before shifting into 1st

- just hold the front brake and the lurch will be less noticeable

- eliminate it completely by starting the bike in 1st gear with the clutch pulled in

It's pretty normal for all bikes to have than initial lurch, some are worse than others, though.

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15 minutes ago, 7fold said:

- eliminate it completely by starting the bike in 1st gear with the clutch pulled in

That's really the solution.  I bet the 1st gear dogs like that idea too.

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JacobJ265@gmail.co

I think my chain is a little too tight also. I wonder if that would make a difference. I know it's normal for bikes to do this but wouldn't the chain being too tight make it worse since there is less slack to absorb the shock? There are a few reasons why I think my chain is too tight but I'm wondering if an unexpected suprise from loosening the chain slightly would be lessening that initial shock. I watched Dave mosses video on chain tension and according to that my chain is too tight. Thanks for your help guys.

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49 minutes ago, JacobJ265@gmail.co said:

I think my chain is a little too tight also.

The owner's manual specifies a 2.01" to 2.2" gap between the chain and the plastic chain guide on the bottom of the swing arm when you pull down firmly (3 lbs.) on the chain at that point.  Of course the "2.01 to 2.2" came from a conversion from 51 to 56 mm and is absurd.  2.0" to 2.2 " is the range I use, since I'm not going to try to measure to a precision of 10 thousandths of an inch!

I cut a block of wood that's 2" wide at one end and tapers to 2.2" at the other.  If it goes in that space but stops before it goes all the way through, the chain is adjusted correctly.

The chain slack is not particularly related to the clunk when you go into gear but I'm sure it could make a small difference.

Edited by Triple Jim
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I have a short piece of an old broken folding rule and marked the "okay" range with red ink. The wood block thing is also good, maybe a business idea for 3d printer owner.  The Yamaha chain maintenance device, only 20$  :D

Edited by ElGonzales
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21 minutes ago, ElGonzales said:

The wood block thing is also good, maybe a business idea for 3d printer owner.

Or if you have a table saw, you can make them 50 times faster.   :)

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On 9/25/2021 at 1:29 PM, JacobJ265@gmail.co said:

I have a yfz450 and when I shift from neutral to first gear the bike jerks slightly forward which is normal. On my fz07 when I shift from neutral to first it jerks forward a bit harder and the whole bike probably jumps over an inch forward. Is this something that's normal for fz07 or do you guys think my clutch is nearing the end of its life. I'm a new rider to motorcycles but not to a manual gear box. I've rode tons of dirtbikes and sport quads but I don't think I've ever experienced a bike slipping in gear quite that hard I'm wondering if maybe it's just how these bikes are. The bike shifts fine when riding. Anyone else noticed this? 

My old 1100 Gold Wing standard used to jump about a foot when cold.   You have a whole lot of mass with a crank, clutch and gears spinning around and on the other end you have a rear wheel, chain, some more gears sitting still.  The clutch is spinning in oil creating drag.  So when you tap it in gear the drag from the oil and some of the clutch plates kind of glued together temporarily by said oil will cause the jump when the moving parts sloshing the oil engages the non-moving parts through said sloshing oil to an extent... in your case a couple inches.  Colder oil will cause more jump than warm oil.

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I noticed this when I had my r6 throttle tube installed. Seemed like the cable had zero slack. My idle was a little higher too. I removed mine finally it just didn’t make the ride enjoyable. 

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1 hour ago, PMT-07 said:

I noticed this when I had my r6 throttle tube installed. Seemed like the cable had zero slack. My idle was a little higher too. I removed mine finally it just didn’t make the ride enjoyable. 

Cable slack is easily adjustable, although I don't think I'd like a faster throttle anyway.

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3 hours ago, Triple Jim said:

Cable slack is easily adjustable, although I don't think I'd like a faster throttle anyway.

Yeah, I don’t want that either. When I had that tube on. There was zero margin of error. You couldn’t even accelerate from a stop comfortably. 

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Josh2019mt07

Just my two cents but along the topic of using a block of wood to check the chain. I do something a little different but I use a credit card because it’s something I usually always have on me. The width of a credit card falls right in between the spec approximately 54 mm or 2.1 inches

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21 minutes ago, Josh2019mt07 said:

Just my two cents but along the topic of using a block of wood to check the chain. I do something a little different but I use a credit card because it’s something I usually always have on me. The width of a credit card falls right in between the spec approximately 54 mm or 2.1 inches

Holy **** that's genius! 

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Thanks man i figured that out one day in the garage messin Around with dial calipers tryin to find something that was a common ground. Width of a credit card or drivers license in the u.s. is right on the money

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