Redline5th Posted June 6, 2022 Share Posted June 6, 2022 Hey everyone! I have a quick & general question about clutch free play. My free play appears to be within the 5-10mm range at the ball end of the clutch & around 3mm in the gap of the clutch perch. I noticed that the clutch arm (down by the motor) moves during this “free play”. I assume this is normal but I don’t have another bike to test. I was wondering if this ‘free play’ should move the clutch arm by the motor or not? I’ve honestly never paid attention on whether this happened on any of the other bikes I’ve had in the past. Can anyone clear that up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M. Hausknecht Posted June 6, 2022 Share Posted June 6, 2022 You mean it moves a little but just to take up the slack or do you mean the clutch arm moves against the clutch spring pressure? The former is normal. The latter is a problem. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Global Moderator Pursuvant Posted June 6, 2022 Global Moderator Share Posted June 6, 2022 Just now, Redline5th said: the clutch arm (down by the motor) moves during this “free play” When I do my "walkabout" the bike before I get on each day, I grab the clutch arm at the motor and I put my eyes on the perch lever. Then I move the clutch arm at the motor back & forth exercising the freeplay, and I better see that handlebar lever moving back & forth the amount I want. If I don't have freeplay at the lever, I adjust it (at the lever) to introduce freeplay. And if I can't get the freeplay I want, I'll go change the cable adjuster at the motor clutch lever to make it so. Freeplay is a big yez for the clutch cable 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redline5th Posted June 6, 2022 Author Share Posted June 6, 2022 Just now, Pursuvant said: When I do my "walkabout" the bike before I get on each day, I grab the clutch arm at the motor and I put my eyes on the perch lever. Then I move the clutch arm at the motor back & forth exercising the freeplay, and I better see that handlebar lever moving back & forth the amount I want. If I don't have freeplay at the lever, I adjust it (at the lever) to introduce freeplay. And if I can't get the freeplay I want, I'll go change the cable adjuster at the motor clutch lever to make it so. Freeplay is a big yez for the clutch cable I went out there and wiggled the clutch arm at the motor by hand (without actually engaging the spring) and it’s got free play there. Looks like about 2mm between the perch area and 5mm on the ball end. Might be a little on the tight side. What made me question it is the clutch engagement point is WAY at the top. The Honda I had was mid range. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redline5th Posted June 6, 2022 Author Share Posted June 6, 2022 Just now, M. Hausknecht said: You mean it moves a little but just to take up the slack or do you mean the clutch arm moves against the clutch spring pressure? The former is normal. The latter is a problem. I feel like my free play is good, but the reason I checked was my clutch engagement point is super high (85% of the way out at the top). I barely have to let the clutch in to change gears. Maybe that’s the nature of this beast. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
00RAH Posted June 6, 2022 Share Posted June 6, 2022 my clutch cable snapped on me in traffic one day. it clicked once and it didnt register (that was a few strands of steel snapping then clicked again and it was completely cut) it was 5 years old. i managed to get it into neutral and onto the footpath, nearly got ran over at the pedestrian crossing, pushed it back 100m to a bike shop id just passed. caught the train home and went back a few days later for the bike. it was $150ish dollars Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redline5th Posted June 6, 2022 Author Share Posted June 6, 2022 Just now, 00RAH said: my clutch cable snapped on me in traffic one day. it clicked once and it didnt register (that was a few strands of steel snapping then clicked again and it was completely cut) it was 5 years old. i managed to get it into neutral and onto the footpath, nearly got ran over at the pedestrian crossing, pushed it back 100m to a bike shop id just passed. caught the train home and went back a few days later for the bike. it was $150ish dollars Was it adjusted too tight? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
00RAH Posted June 6, 2022 Share Posted June 6, 2022 no not too tight, i must have nicked the cable taking the lever on and off over the years, and as time went by it just wore down. ham hands (clumsy) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redline5th Posted June 6, 2022 Author Share Posted June 6, 2022 Just now, 00RAH said: no not too tight, i must have nicked the cable taking the lever on and off over the years, and as time went by it just wore down. ham hands (clumsy) Does/did your clutch engage at the top of letting the lever out? I’ve never ridden a bike that wasn’t more towards the middle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
00RAH Posted June 6, 2022 Share Posted June 6, 2022 (edited) i like to use 2 fingers only for my clutch pull so it engages at the bottom of letting the lever out, if its too floppy (the clutch lever) it sound/feels clunky at the gear shifter pedal so ill give the clutch twister clicker maybe 1/2 a full turn out to get it shifting nice. hope that makes sense. Edited June 6, 2022 by 00RAH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Global Moderator Pursuvant Posted June 6, 2022 Global Moderator Share Posted June 6, 2022 8 hours ago, M. Hausknecht said: You mean it moves a little but just to take up the slack or do you mean the clutch arm moves against the clutch spring pressure? The former is normal. The latter is a problem. Do you think there is a way, when putting the clutch cover back on, that the mechanic could have engaged the clutch lever "spindle" on the "clutch pull rod" off by 1 "tooth"? There is that alignment mark on the clutch cover, that should be aligned with the lever. Maybe the OP should take a picture like below, of that mark & lever Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtechdan Posted June 6, 2022 Share Posted June 6, 2022 You can adjust clutch engagement point by putting slack in the cable at the clutch lever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M. Hausknecht Posted June 7, 2022 Share Posted June 7, 2022 Just now, Pursuvant said: Do you think there is a way, when putting the clutch cover back on, that the mechanic could have engaged the clutch lever "spindle" on the "clutch pull rod" off by 1 "tooth"? There is that alignment mark on the clutch cover, that should be aligned with the lever. Maybe the OP should take a picture like below, of that mark & lever Good idea. I should note, my clutch moves too when as I take up the slack in the cable. Clutch engagement "way at the top" suggests a worn out clutch. When up shifting a bike (without s quick shifter), as long as you fully back off the throttle, you really don't need to use the clutch. Just back off to unload the shift dogs and press the shift pedal, it should go nicely into the next gear. The same thing can be done when down-shifting but rev matching with a throttle blip is a skill that takes some time to acquire and, in any event, clutchless down shifting is a bit tougher on the shift dogs. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redline5th Posted June 7, 2022 Author Share Posted June 7, 2022 Just now, Pursuvant said: Do you think there is a way, when putting the clutch cover back on, that the mechanic could have engaged the clutch lever "spindle" on the "clutch pull rod" off by 1 "tooth"? There is that alignment mark on the clutch cover, that should be aligned with the lever. Maybe the OP should take a picture like below, of that mark & lever I checked this the other day and it is properly aligned. I believe that I just need to add a little bit more slack to lower the engagement point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stickshift Posted June 7, 2022 Share Posted June 7, 2022 7 hours ago, Redline5th said: Does/did your clutch engage at the top of letting the lever out? I’ve never ridden a bike that wasn’t more towards the middle. Mine engages with the lever nearly all the way out. Was like that from new. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redline5th Posted June 7, 2022 Author Share Posted June 7, 2022 Just now, stickshift said: Mine engages with the lever nearly all the way out. Was like that from new. Yeah lots of people on the Facebook group are saying the same thing. You can kind of adjust it with some extra slack, but the only real fix it to add in after market levers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stickshift Posted June 8, 2022 Share Posted June 8, 2022 21 hours ago, Redline5th said: Yeah lots of people on the Facebook group are saying the same thing. You can kind of adjust it with some extra slack, but the only real fix it to add in after market levers I thought it was a bit odd when I bought the bike, but you get used to it over time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweetscience Posted June 9, 2022 Share Posted June 9, 2022 (edited) My advice, get an adjustable clutch lever. This allows for fine tuning and comfort. Lube the clutch and throttle cables for smoother and slick actuation. The friction point is closer to the top of the lever pull because it allows for instantaneous response. This is a good thing. Remember, the cable free play for either the throttle or clutch are dictated by the amount of slack taken up to allow the handlebar to turn full range. In other words, free play is to prevent the clutch from inadvertantly disengaging as the handlebar is turned lock to lock. Or the throttle from inadvertantly opening as the handlebar is turned lock to lock. Whenever I use a new or unfamiliar bike, I would check and calibrate the exact bite point of the clutch by propping the bike on a paddock stand and running it in gear. I do this standing beside the bike to make adjustments. Edited June 10, 2022 by sweetscience Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seven Posted June 11, 2022 Share Posted June 11, 2022 I don't see how changing the levers will change the engagement point of the clutch. I can see that it might change the feeling and possibly the range from fully engaged to fully disengaged but I would think that generally if your clutch (with stock lever) engages at the top of the range that it would be pretty similar with an aftermarket lever. At least with my Pazzo levers the engagement point is about the same but I can adjust the lever to be a little closer so it isn't as far of a reach. What I want to fix is that the range from fully engaged to fully disangaged is crazy small. I want a wider range because I find when trying to do the very fine control of the clutch (low speed stuff) my old meat hands are not as precise as I need them to be. I suspect if there was a way to get a longer lever arm on the clutch side it would solve that problem quite simply. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chomorro Posted September 8, 2022 Share Posted September 8, 2022 I adjust the freeplay to move the engagement point slightly. I recently bought adjustable levers and it's much easier. Free play stays the same but the adjustment changes the engagement point for me just enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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