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Bypassing the clutch switch


Michelle

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Can anyone explain how to properly bypass the clutch switch so that the bike selects the correct ecu mapping? I took the turn signal cluster off my bike so that I wouldn't crash and destroy it at the track. But now I heard that you have to bypass the switch or else the bike experiences power loss thinking it's in neutral all the time. Can someone explain a simple solution to correctly bypass the switch? Thanks!

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6 hours ago, Michelle said:

Can anyone explain how to properly bypass the clutch switch so that the bike selects the correct ecu mapping? I took the turn signal cluster off my bike so that I wouldn't crash and destroy it at the track. But now I heard that you have to bypass the switch or else the bike experiences power loss thinking it's in neutral all the time. Can someone explain a simple solution to correctly bypass the switch? Thanks!

The clutch switch is to allow you to operate the starter when the bike is in gear with the clutch pulled in and the side stand up. Mine has been removed for a long time with no issues (other than I cannot start the bike in gear by pulling in the clutch). The gear selector switch is in the case, that is what tells the ECU what gear the bike is in. 

 

Ed

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"Do not let this bad example influence you, follow only what is good" 

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18 hours ago, Evill_Ed said:

The clutch switch is to allow you to operate the starter when the bike is in gear with the clutch pulled in and the side stand up. Mine has been removed for a long time with no issues (other than I cannot start the bike in gear by pulling in the clutch). The gear selector switch is in the case, that is what tells the ECU what gear the bike is in. 

 

Ed

Oh ok, so it's not a necessity. From the posts I read people were making it seem like you have to bypass the clutch switch or else the bike will run terribly. So to my understanding now the bike will run fine you just can't start it in gear anymore. The reason the bike can run badly is because people try to bypass and they do it incorrectly. Is that right? 

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1 hour ago, Michelle said:

Oh ok, so it's not a necessity. From the posts I read people were making it seem like you have to bypass the clutch switch or else the bike will run terribly. So to my understanding now the bike will run fine you just can't start it in gear anymore. The reason the bike can run badly is because people try to bypass and they do it incorrectly. Is that right? 

Honestly, I have no idea what they are talking about. The clutch switch is just a safety, like the kickstand switch. Maybe the gear indicator switch could cause issues if it were disconnected, but I have not heard of that either. 

Anyway, removing the clutch lever switch will not cause any power or running issues. 


Ed

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"Do not let this bad example influence you, follow only what is good" 

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On 1/26/2024 at 12:38 PM, Evill_Ed said:

Honestly, I have no idea what they are talking about. The clutch switch is just a safety, like the kickstand switch. Maybe the gear indicator switch could cause issues if it were disconnected, but I have not heard of that either. 

Anyway, removing the clutch lever switch will not cause any power or running issues. 


Ed

Thanks for clarifying! 

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I made a thread about this a while back where I ran into issues with this very problem. I ultimately removed the clutch switch and soldered those wires to the high beam flasher trigger as I never used it anyways so if I need to start the bike in gear, I just pull the little trigger hit the starter and go. There are ECU mapping differences when the clutch switch is engaged or disengaged. If you tie the two wires together permanently (so the bike will start in gear all the time), the bike runs like trash. If the wires are disconnected, bike runs as it should you just lose the ability to start in gear, unless you wire it to a normally open momentary switch, such as the high beam "passing" flasher trigger. 

I will say that mine is a 2016 so I'm not sure of the effects on newer model bikes but I would suspect they may be the same.

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Edited by CarGuy7a
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On 2/4/2024 at 5:17 PM, CarGuy7a said:

I made a thread about this a while back where I ran into issues with this very problem. I ultimately removed the clutch switch and soldered those wires to the high beam flasher trigger as I never used it anyways so if I need to start the bike in gear, I just pull the little trigger hit the starter and go. There are ECU mapping differences when the clutch switch is engaged or disengaged. If you tie the two wires together permanently (so the bike will start in gear all the time), the bike runs like trash. If the wires are disconnected, bike runs as it should you just lose the ability to start in gear, unless you wire it to a normally open momentary switch, such as the high beam "passing" flasher trigger. 

I will say that mine is a 2016 so I'm not sure of the effects on newer model bikes but I would suspect they may be the same.

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Makes sense! Thank you! 

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On 1/26/2024 at 12:38 PM, Evill_Ed said:

Honestly, I have no idea what they are talking about. The clutch switch is just a safety, like the kickstand switch. Maybe the gear indicator switch could cause issues if it were disconnected, but I have not heard of that either. 

Anyway, removing the clutch lever switch will not cause any power or running issues. 


Ed

Ed, I have another question for you since your FZ has full race fairings. When you deleted the headlight, tail light, and turn signals did you ever run into an issue with the 4-way flashers staying on the dash when the bike is running? I tried pulling some fuses but it didn't shut them off. My bike has race fairings now so having the flashers on my dash is just a nuisance at this point. I also don't know if racing tech would have an issue with it. Do you know how I can get the flashers to stop? Electrical is not one of my strengths haha. Thanks!

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5 hours ago, Michelle said:

Ed, I have another question for you since your FZ has full race fairings. When you deleted the headlight, tail light, and turn signals did you ever run into an issue with the 4-way flashers staying on the dash when the bike is running? I tried pulling some fuses but it didn't shut them off. My bike has race fairings now so having the flashers on my dash is just a nuisance at this point. I also don't know if racing tech would have an issue with it. Do you know how I can get the flashers to stop? Electrical is not one of my strengths haha. Thanks!

Michelle, are you sure that the Hazard Switch on the right hand control is in the Off position? It is located under the starter button. 

I removed any unused relays on mine. The relays are under the left side(clutch side) of the fuel tank. I believe the flasher / hazard relay is smaller and black in color. The wiring diagram shows 2 wires on the plug end, Blue with Red Stripe and Brown with White Stripe. You can simply unplug the relay to disable all signal / hazard functions. 


Ed

"Do not let this bad example influence you, follow only what is good" 

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On 2/12/2024 at 2:41 PM, Evill_Ed said:

Michelle, are you sure that the Hazard Switch on the right hand control is in the Off position? It is located under the starter button. 

I removed any unused relays on mine. The relays are under the left side(clutch side) of the fuel tank. I believe the flasher / hazard relay is smaller and black in color. The wiring diagram shows 2 wires on the plug end, Blue with Red Stripe and Brown with White Stripe. You can simply unplug the relay to disable all signal / hazard functions. 


Ed

So I removed all hand controls from the bike except the kill switch, clutch, brake, and throttle. And when I unplugged the turn signal control my hazards have been permanently on the dash when the bike is running. I haven't messed with any relays though I've only unplugged the connection to remove the signal cluster. I'll try unplugging the relay like you said to try and disable all signals I bet that's the problem. Thanks! 

Edited by Michelle
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