Removed camshaft in wrong position

[tomlichu]

10 minutes ago, magiccube said:

I was thinking of 3d printing one, but i guess thats not realy better than a pvc pipe. I will look into it and than try to get my hands on the right Tools. To be honest other than the Video i already shared I haven't realy looked into how to do the seals, but i will do that tomorrow.

I was too cheap to buy a seal driver. You can use your old fork seals or electrical tape to put in your new seals.

Electrical tape method

 

If you cut your old fork seal in half, you can put it onto of your new fork seal and push it in. Then, get a mallet and gently tap it in. More details here

https://www.thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/767152-how-to-change-fork-seals-and-bushings-pt1/

[Paulb5950]

Fork seals are a breeze compared to what you just went through!

Sounds silly, but every time I disabled a new set I either record my self, or take tons of pictures to reference back to. 

I'm also a very visual person so it helps me more then reading sometimes.

[Lone Wolf]

2 hours ago, tomlichu said:

I was too cheap to buy a seal driver. You can use your old fork seals or electrical tape to put in your new seals.

Right, I was also reluctant to buy a tool I may only use once. I did not buy the seal driver.

BUT when the OP says this "Still kind of scared of doing the forks tho, but i will figure it out." I am thinking that a seal driver will be appropriate for him.

There is a bushing that needs to be whacked into place (visible at 5:36 in the following video). it is a bit of a pain in the ass. THEN the seal goes in a minute later. 

Compared to all the other expenses of registration, insurance, other maintenance - a generic seal driver would be a good investment.

This video shows the proper tool. 
I am not saying it can't be done otherwise.

Edited April 23 by Lone Wolf

[magiccube]

Thanks, for all the replies, watched all the videos and some other videos on my way to and back from uni  today. I feel pretty confident that it should be definitely easier than the valve clearance, and be doable.

I just hope I can somehow losen the bottom 8mm bolt of the fork with out an impact as we don't have one. I read it can be a bit of a pain to get lose.

Other than that I also found a 3d printable fork seal driver (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3352017), and juding from some comments I found online and the fact that even electrical tape or a pvc pipe do the job I am pritty confident it will work. If it doesn't I can still try the other methodes or get the real thing.

Here is a picture of my printed driver (41mm), it definatly feels way more sturdy than a pvc pipe:

As I had to do some other stuff for uni and help a friend, I only managed the get the engine to the right oil level and prep the bike for tomorrow.

Since I also dont have a stand for the front and our garage is a 2 storey one, so it can go up and down. I used some hooks that are drilled into the ceiling of the garage and some starps firm around the frame with the garage up like 10cm. This way when I let the garage down all the way the front of the bike lifts up and puts the front wheel in the air.

So hopefully tomorrow after uni if nothing else comes up, I can start taking off the forks and replacing the seals.

In the mean time I am still trying to get the tool for the sychronization, and already called up some shops to see if they would lend it to me for an evening for a small fee if I bring it by again the next day before they open. So far without any luck, but I wanted to try some more shops, before I actually buy the tool.

Edited April 24 by magiccube

[Lone Wolf]

5 hours ago, magiccube said:

I just hope I can somehow losen the bottom 8mm bolt of the fork with out an impact as we don't have one. I read it can be a bit of a pain to get lose.

small impacts (like 12 volt) are pretty cheap and available used. They are much different than a massive impact for vehicle lug nuts. These are small, usually hex driver (like for phillips screws etc) and you can get a driver bit that has 3/8 inch socket adaptor. They will come in handy for driving screws into wood, etc. without stripping the heads. They are awesome.

[sweetscience]

I have a Motion Pro fork seal driver, and I have never used a plastic fork seal driver.  But I would imagine with the heft and weight of a metal driver,  it will be easier to feel and hear when the seals have reached their seated position. 

If you plan to do a proper cleaning of the forks, the damper rod bolt is loctited at the factory.  You could crack the bolt loose before you remove the fork top cap.  Pro- tip: best substitute for a damper rod holder tool is a broom handle.  I used this and an impact wrench.  Don't bother adding loctite to the damper rod bolt on assembly.  It'll make future disassembly easier.

 

[magiccube]

ok an other quick update, took a while as I had to do a lot of work for uni.

I couldn't manage to losen the bottom bolt, so I called the shop i picked the gasket up from and asked them if they could do it. They were nice enough to do it for me and also let me clean and reassemble the forks in their parking lot, so I could use their tool to tighten it again. While they were at it they also put the seal on for me using a proper seal driver. Since they wanted to do it free of charge I gave them a case of beer, so it was a win win i guess.

I just put the front wheel back on, and all the other stuff I had to take off. 

Now I just have to sychronize the throttle bodies. As I still haven't found anyone willing to lent me the proper tool, I will try this methode I found in a post on the German forum, in this video you can see the same methode:

Edit: Cant seem to figure out how to turn the adjustment screw it seems like it is stuck...

Just to make sure I am trying to turn the right screw here is a picture of the screw i am trying to turn:

 

Edited April 28 by magiccube

[sweetscience]

Yep, that's the adjustment screw you want to use.  I got this tool from motion pro, it works great.  There are probably similar type tools out there which are lower cost, if you're willing to dig around.  Maybe try an auto parts store who rent out tools.

https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0229

 

 

 

[magiccube]

I have a similar tool (https://www.hagebau.de/p/proxxon-rotary-ratsche-schluesselgroesse-1-4-mm-anV1068246/), with a 4mm socket on there. I can place it in the screw perfectly fine, but the screw seems like it is stuck no matter the direction I turn. I already nicked it a bit (luckly not to bad) when appling a bit of preasure, trying to open it (if you zoom into the picture I send you can see it). I am pretty sure an adjustment screw shouldn't be this hard to turn, so I don't rly know what to do now.

Edit: I tried with my dad now he also wasn't able to turn the screw, so we tried on the left side. We marked the oem position of the screw and than turned it 6 clicks of the ratchet and than exactly 6 clicks back again so it is in oem position again. The left one turned without problems and didn't need even half the preasure we tried on the other one. I am gonna buy some wd40 tomorrow evening as I don't have time before and will than try again. If that doesnt work I was thinking of pulling the throttle bodies and just replacing the screw, unless some of you have any tipps?

I also wonder how that can happen, as I never touched that screw and only let a shop do the service once and i doubt they would pull it all the way in that hard.

Edit 2: A friend who works in a shop for cars just swung by and while he was here also took a look at the screws. He also noticed that the screw on the right side seems further in than on the left side. His guess was that somebody screwed the screw all the way in pretty hard. As I didn't touch the screw, he said he wouldn't be suprised if they had some trainee do the sychronization that didn't realy know what he was doing and janked the screw all the way in and they didn't check it after again. As he has seen similar stuff in quite a few shops for cars all ready.

Anyways he also thinks my best bet is wd40 and if that doesn't work he doesn't know what else to do than remove the throttle bodys and replacing the screw. As I can't realy apply any heat or anything like that with all the cables around.

Edited April 29 by magiccube

[magiccube]

An other small update, just pulled the throttle body, and seems like the shop screwed in the screw in the wrong way screwing up the thread.

My guess is when adjusting they turned the screw too far and with the spring below it poped out. Because they are lazy peaces of shet and want to safe money were they can they tried to put the screw back in with the throttle body installed and put it in tilted f@#king up the thread.

Below you can see a picture of the throttle body with the screw if you zoom in you can see the f@#ked thread:

And here an other close up of the thread:

Edited May 1 by magiccube

[Paulb5950]

Damn! This is why I basically just stopped taking my stuff too shops. I just don't ever trust that they will do a job well, or be honest.

I'd invest in a cheap tap and die set, probably could save it.

[magiccube]

Took quite a while for an other update as I am really busy with uni right now and can't realy work on the bike.

On 5/2/2024 at 1:51 AM, Paulb5950 said:

Damn! This is why I basically just stopped taking my stuff too shops. I just don't ever trust that they will do a job well, or be honest.

I'd invest in a cheap tap and die set, probably could save it.

Either way, I did that on Saturday, but instead lent one from a friend that had the right sizes at work. The thread works fine now again and looks decent.

As I had some time today, I clean the air filter case (hope thats what its called the big box the airfilter is in) as it had some oil in it from when I started the bike with to much oil after the blown seal and I thought I would rather top it up a bit to much than too less. Would you guys clean anything else while I still have everything off?

Also the new screw finially arrived. I will probatly try to code all night today, so I hopefully have some time to install it tomorrow and finally put the bike back togather.

With that I was wondering if there is like a start postion for the screw to start adjusting it from, as I couldn't find anything about that in the manual. My plan now was to just screw it in to about the same hight as the left screw and than go from there (would do this just eying as I dont realy want to remove the left screw to count the turns, and possibly f@#k that up as well) 

[magiccube]

An other update. She runs now and is all back together now. Already went for a small test drive yesterday and everthing felt normal as well.

Had quite a struggle getting the throttle bodies back in, for anybody else in the future maybe sturggeling with that: put them in from the top fit the airbox side first and than the engine side.

Only small thing I noticed is she takes longer to start than before, any ideas what that might be?

Thanks again for all the help through out this ordeal, realy appreciate it.

[Pursuvant]

2 hours ago, magiccube said:

...small thing I noticed is she takes longer to start than before, any ideas what that might be?...

Your bike, did it have a desperately dirty air filter when you cleaned it? If so perhaps the dirty filter was adding a "choke" to the intake by slightly restricting intake air - and making it easier to start.

You replaced the fuel pump? Take a good look at the fuel line connector under the tank, make sure it's seated (no fuel escaping)

If the bike is in good overall condition now (safety-wise) then go give it an Italian tuneup. Translation - go ride it wide open. BUT ONLY IF THE BIKE IS SAFE AND YOU ARE CONFIDENT IN YOUR SKILLS.

[Pursuvant]

And one more thing - YOU DID GOOD YOUNG MAN BRINGING THE BIKE BACK. WELL DONE !!

[Paulb5950]

8 hours ago, magiccube said:

An other update. She runs now and is all back together now. Already went for a small test drive yesterday and everthing felt normal as well.

Had quite a struggle getting the throttle bodies back in, for anybody else in the future maybe sturggeling with that: put them in from the top fit the airbox side first and than the engine side.

Only small thing I noticed is she takes longer to start than before, any ideas what that might be?

Thanks again for all the help through out this ordeal, realy appreciate it.

Just wanted say good job and congrats on getting everything back together!!! Nothing feels better than getting back on it knowing you did it. 

Now you also have a bunch of new knowledge, skills and hopefully confidence for future work! 

I agree that if your filter was very dirty it could have been "choking". The other reason it might have been taking a bit longer to fire up is since the bike was down for awhile the battery might have gone a bit limp. A good long, hard ride should pep the battery back up or you can hook it up to a tender to get a nice charge back in it. 

So happy that everything finally worked out in the end my dude.

[magiccube]

On 5/9/2024 at 2:07 PM, Pursuvant said:

Your bike, did it have a desperately dirty air filter when you cleaned it? If so perhaps the dirty filter was adding a "choke" to the intake by slightly restricting intake air - and making it easier to start.

You replaced the fuel pump? Take a good look at the fuel line connector under the tank, make sure it's seated (no fuel escaping)

If the bike is in good overall condition now (safety-wise) then go give it an Italian tuneup. Translation - go ride it wide open. BUT ONLY IF THE BIKE IS SAFE AND YOU ARE CONFIDENT IN YOUR SKILLS.

 

23 hours ago, Paulb5950 said:

Just wanted say good job and congrats on getting everything back together!!! Nothing feels better than getting back on it knowing you did it. 

Now you also have a bunch of new knowledge, skills and hopefully confidence for future work! 

I agree that if your filter was very dirty it could have been "choking". The other reason it might have been taking a bit longer to fire up is since the bike was down for awhile the battery might have gone a bit limp. A good long, hard ride should pep the battery back up or you can hook it up to a tender to get a nice charge back in it. 

So happy that everything finally worked out in the end my dude.

Thanks again for all the help. Did just that yesterday and today as we finally got some good weather. She starts now like before the service if not a bit better. guess it really was the battery than.

Only thing now is i noticed today i need a new chain as it is realy worn through and only takes a couple of hours of riding to get noticably looser again. So I will have to do that next week or the week after. 

[tomlichu]

2 hours ago, magiccube said:

Only thing now is i noticed today i need a new chain as it is realy worn through and only takes a couple of hours of riding to get noticably looser again. So I will have to do that next week or the week after. 

If you replace the chain, you should also consider replacing the sprocket as well. If the sprocket is worn, it will wear down your new chain faster. It's usually recommended to get it done together.

[Paulb5950]

I agree, any time I do chain replacements, I always do sprockets with it.

 

It's tedious and annoying, but I really do try and lube my chain often. Like every 500-700 miles.

My current chain and sprocket setup is the OEM one and I'm close to 10k on them, fingers crossed but I still have a good amount of room for adjustments of slack. 

[magiccube]

On 5/10/2024 at 9:22 PM, tomlichu said:

If you replace the chain, you should also consider replacing the sprocket as well. If the sprocket is worn, it will wear down your new chain faster. It's usually recommended to get it done together.

 

On 5/11/2024 at 6:17 AM, Paulb5950 said:

I agree, any time I do chain replacements, I always do sprockets with it.

 

It's tedious and annoying, but I really do try and lube my chain often. Like every 500-700 miles.

My current chain and sprocket setup is the OEM one and I'm close to 10k on them, fingers crossed but I still have a good amount of room for adjustments of slack. 

Yes thats, what I am doing I ordered a kit for the front and rear sproket + the chain.
I also looked up what I have to do inorder to change the sprocket. In the manual it recommends to change the nut for the front sproket. But since i don't want to wait ages for a new nut to arrive i am going to use the old nut, as I read this works for most people without any problems.