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The MT-07 Forum

jcku

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I new to riding, and just completed my MSF course in person. As Im looking for a new bike, mainly for commuting and fun riding, the FZ-07 kept showing up. I've found one on FB Marketplace that is in my budget, however my concern is that it has 51,000 miles on it. I know its a lot for a bike. For the things done to it, he has Steel Braided Brake lines on the front and back, Fresh Bill of Health from the Dealer as well as all 55k services completed, and he uses it as a commuting bike. There is a windshield that he installed but Im planning to take off as I wont be on the Highway for long stretches of time, and it is pretty ugly. I would have to drive to this bike for about an Hour and 30 Minutes. Should I buy?

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wollerms

If it's the one listed for $4500, I personnel would not buy it as I think you could find something for the same money with far less mileage. It may be just fine with 51,000 miles on it if all the maintenance was done properly and there are records to prove it, but again I would find something with less miles. 

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37 minutes ago, wollerms said:

If it's the one listed for $4500, I personnel would not buy it as I think you could find something for the same money with far less mileage. It may be just fine with 51,000 miles on it if all the maintenance was done properly and there are records to prove it, but again I would find something with less miles. 

It is that listing, however I got him to sell for $3800, and for me it seems like a decent deal, getting a newer bike for under $4000. However I think Ill try an make some more offers on bikes with less milage like you said. Thanks.

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wollerms

Maybe find someone near you with more experience in motorcycling to help you find and look over a bike. I would suggest you also look at SV650's which have been made for like 20 years and are bulletproof great all-around bikes. I would not make an offer on any bike unless I physically look it over, hear it run, look at maintenance records and either test ride it or follow the owner while they ride it. I'd also look for signs of it being down or crashed, look at swingarm, levers, bottom of forks for signs of damage.  

 

https://www.revzilla.com/common-tread/dont-get-burned-used-bike-buying-tips

 

https://motorcyclehabit.com/how-to-buy-a-used-motorcycle-from-a-private-seller-a-pros-guide/

Edited by wollerms
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Ok Ill take a look at some SV650s, Thank you for the input.

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cornerslider

I personally, don't think 51K is much on a commuter bike- as long as there's a paper trail for maintenance.... I put 17K on my 2016, and over 10k was running it harder than it was ever meant to be run (I raced it). My compression was "low". A leak-down test, and borescope showed the exhaust valves were most likely the culprit. After the head was removed it was confirmed. As long as it was apart, I did all new valves/guides/springs- intake & exhaust. The cylinder walls and rings looked like brand new! You could still see the original cross-hatching in the cylinder walls. I did not replace the pistons, or the rings. After pretty much a rebuilt head, my compression returned to normal, and it pulled like it did when it was new! Just my personal experience....

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""W.O.T. until you see god, then brake"

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M. Hausknecht

A bike with 51,000 miles should not have the original shock, sprockets or chain, and the forks should have been serviced multiple times. I wouldn't buy a bike with that much mileage on it (I'd look further) but if there are detailed maintenance records consistent with the maintenance that should have been done, it could be ok. Have the bike examined fully by someone who understands what to look for (sloppy steering head and swing arm bearings, for example). People love to wheelie these bikes but it an accelerate wear significantly. Ask the seller, if its good for wheelies and see what he says. Best response would be, "dunno, don't do wheelies."

Edited by M. Hausknecht
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17 hours ago, cornerslider said:

I personally, don't think 51K is much on a commuter bike- as long as there's a paper trail for maintenance.... I put 17K on my 2016, and over 10k was running it harder than it was ever meant to be run (I raced it). My compression was "low". A leak-down test, and borescope showed the exhaust valves were most likely the culprit. After the head was removed it was confirmed. As long as it was apart, I did all new valves/guides/springs- intake & exhaust. The cylinder walls and rings looked like brand new! You could still see the original cross-hatching in the cylinder walls. I did not replace the pistons, or the rings. After pretty much a rebuilt head, my compression returned to normal, and it pulled like it did when it was new! Just my personal experience....

Wait dod you buy it brand new and then put on 17k? Or was it already used, and then you put 17k on it? If im being honest also, I don't want to rebuild the engine, especially as it would be my first time doing it. My plan for having a bike is to just put some bolt-ons and maybe some cosmetic mods onto the bike. I think if I took apart the engine, it would not end well. So I don't think I would end up going with a rebuild route.

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6 hours ago, M. Hausknecht said:

A bike with 51,000 miles should not have the original shock, sprockets or chain, and the forks should have been serviced multiple times. I wouldn't buy a bike with that much mileage on it (I'd look further) but if there are detailed maintenance records consistent with the maintenance that should have been done, it could be ok. Have the bike examined fully by someone who understands what to look for (sloppy steering head and swing arm bearings, for example). People love to wheelie these bikes but it an accelerate wear significantly. Ask the seller, if its good for wheelies and see what he says. Best response would be, "dunno, don't do wheelies."

Ok, I asked for all of the service documents he has so Ill see what he has. But Im still looking to find other bikes in my area, Im currently unemployed and I am planning on looking for one towards the end of spring and start of summer, so Ill be able to have some more money to dump towards a bike. I think Ill ask him about the wheelies in person, but from how he modded the bike, he doesn't seem like a big time squid or anything. Thanks for your information.

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cornerslider
1 hour ago, jcku said:

Wait dod you buy it brand new and then put on 17k? Or was it already used, and then you put 17k on it? If im being honest also, I don't want to rebuild the engine, especially as it would be my first time doing it. My plan for having a bike is to just put some bolt-ons and maybe some cosmetic mods onto the bike. I think if I took apart the engine, it would not end well. So I don't think I would end up going with a rebuild route.

I bought it brand new, to be used as a track/race bike. I rode it HARD on track for over 10K. Never gave me a bit of trouble. My top end/head problems were likely caused by my own mods/fueling issues, AND really hard use that it was never designed for. The point I was trying to make, was that these motors are nearly bulletproof in stock trim. A commuter bike with 51K, for $3800 seems fair (to me). Hope that helps-

""W.O.T. until you see god, then brake"

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7 hours ago, cornerslider said:

I bought it brand new, to be used as a track/race bike. I rode it HARD on track for over 10K. Never gave me a bit of trouble. My top end/head problems were likely caused by my own mods/fueling issues, AND really hard use that it was never designed for. The point I was trying to make, was that these motors are nearly bulletproof in stock trim. A commuter bike with 51K, for $3800 seems fair (to me). Hope that helps-

Ok, I'll try not to do anything too crazy with it.

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