burgershot Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 I just re-installed the battery last night after the winter and cannot get the bolts for the seat back into the frame, even by hand without the seat. Its as if the threads are damaged or they are the wrong bolts, it was late dark and cold so I'll investigate more when I get home tonight. The bike literally came back from the dealership for the battery cable recall the day before I garaged it and I don't remember if the bolts felt tight when I removed them. I'm wondering if the threads may have been damaged by over tightening when this was done. Has anybody else had any trouble here and what do you think my options are, try to get a slightly smaller bolt from home depot or something as drastic as a re-tap of the holes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member tino206 Posted April 1, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted April 1, 2015 It does seem to be a sort of common issue with people struggling with these bolts. You might be right and have to re-tap the holes.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 The bolts are a bit fussy, as the holes are at a weird angle... you may be trying to inset them not 100% perpendicular to the opening. Try it in the daytime, slow and patiently... it should work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkH Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 Yes, I have this problem every now and then. Always seems to be the brake side bolt. It takes me about 3 tries before it finally finds the right angle and teeth to screw in like normal. I visit here at least once a week. Got any questions, ask and I will answer! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riverfox Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 I've found that they are at a weird angle. Try leaving the seat out and inserting them just a turn or two in and note the angle. Then when you attach the seat the correct angle will be easier to find. In fact you can put the seat loosely in place, put the bolt on the allen wrench and place it through the seat then lift the seat slightly so you can see the correct angle to get it started. I found it much easier if you do it using the allen wrench. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member hippiebikerchick Posted April 1, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted April 1, 2015 Those bolts are at a strange angle but first you have to ensure the seat hook in front is correctly mounted. Many people, myself included, haven't had the seat properly mounted first, then the bolts fit poorly or not at all. You can tell because there will be a larger than normal gap below the seat. Illegitimi non carborundum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member hobbs Posted April 1, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted April 1, 2015 Those bolts are at a strange angle but first you have to ensure the seat hook in front is correctly mounted. Many people, myself included, haven't had the seat properly mounted first, then the bolts fit poorly or not at all. You can tell because there will be a larger than normal gap below the seat. This advice and patience will lead you to victory. The seat bolts are a bit of a pain, just take care not to damage the threads. Everything went braap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coleman67 Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 A long T-handle allen (hex) wrench helps with these also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haze87 Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 Jumping on this bandwagon. My left seat bolt was fine, but the right bolt was the biggest pain in the ass. As I was getting it out it was stuck and as I was getting it back in it got stuck. In the end, I was just patient with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fooschnickens Posted April 2, 2015 Share Posted April 2, 2015 I've never had an issue with them, but I've also never used the allen keys that came with the bike. I have a set of sockets that I use so maybe the extra leverage helps with getting them properly aligned. Also be sure that the seat is properly "hooked" in place, if it isn't you WILL have problems getting those bolts in, regardless of what tools you use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Eastern Kayaker Posted April 2, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted April 2, 2015 I had difficulty with these bolts because of the angle. But like others have stated, make sure the seat is hooked properly and the bolts are at the proper angle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burgershot Posted April 2, 2015 Author Share Posted April 2, 2015 So I took a look at the threads last night and they are pretty crushed. I can't even get the bolts in by hand with no seat. I'll get them re-tapped locally - the quote is only $15. I just ziptied the seat on for now until I can get it fixed properly. hobbs, I think you are also right though, I noticed my seat wasn't sitting right after I ziptied it. I'll make sure its on properly when this gets fixed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 Putting a tap back into a hole with badly damaged threads will more likely leave you with a hole and no threads or threads that just about to break off. They will more likely go one bolt size up - if it's 6mm now, then the hole will have to be drilled to the size required for an 8mm tap and then threaded. . If there's enough material, you could also have a threaded insert (Time or Helicoil) installed and retain the original size bolt. An easier fix if theres room underneath, drill the hole clean, use a slightly longer bolt and then glue (epoxy) a nut to the bottom of the hole. It's just holding the seat afterall. This is a perfect place for anti-sieze compound when you have healthy threads again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Global Moderator sorkyah Posted April 28, 2015 Global Moderator Share Posted April 28, 2015 I just re-installed the battery last night after the winter and cannot get the bolts for the seat back into the frame, even by hand without the seat. Its as if the threads are damaged or they are the wrong bolts, it was late dark and cold so I'll investigate more when I get home tonight. The bike literally came back from the dealership for the battery cable recall the day before I garaged it and I don't remember if the bolts felt tight when I removed them. I'm wondering if the threads may have been damaged by over tightening when this was done. Has anybody else had any trouble here and what do you think my options are, try to get a slightly smaller bolt from home depot or something as drastic as a re-tap of the holes? Ive had the bracket itself replaced twice by the dealer. After the battery cable recall the clutch side bolt came back stripped, the second time was after the 4k service, and it was the brake side bolt. it seems to be a low-grade nut welded to the bottom of the seat support bracket, combining that with the odd angle our seat bolts go in at = buggered threads. My dealer replaced my seat bracket twice after attempting first a re-tap of an m6x1.25 thread then a 'heli-coil' each time, the coil just didnt want to stay put. ATGATT... ATTATT, two acronyms I live by. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member hippiebikerchick Posted April 28, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted April 28, 2015 Last fall one of our members had the seat bolts replaced with a velcro attachment. Illegitimi non carborundum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Global Moderator sorkyah Posted April 28, 2015 Global Moderator Share Posted April 28, 2015 Last fall one of our members had the seat bolts replaced with a velcro attachment. im not seeing how this could work unless they placed a full plate over the battery for the velcro to attach ATGATT... ATTATT, two acronyms I live by. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onuro Posted April 28, 2015 Share Posted April 28, 2015 I keep wearing those bolts so I retapped them with V-Coil springs: http://www.engineering-supplies.com/cat/88/helicoil-v-coil-wire-inserts-taps-gauges-/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ralph Posted April 28, 2015 Share Posted April 28, 2015 Even when you get the seat fitted right the padding at the back pushes on the bolt and key so pushing it out of line just enough to start the thread cross threaded, make sure you hold the padding back clear of the bolt so you can get a straight shot at it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member hippiebikerchick Posted April 28, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted April 28, 2015 Last fall one of our members had the seat bolts replaced with a velcro attachment. im not seeing how this could work unless they placed a full plate over the battery for the velcro to attachIt was @foxtrotzulu07. Maybe he could share pics or tell us how this was done? Illegitimi non carborundum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted April 28, 2015 Share Posted April 28, 2015 Kinda pricey just to get away from using a bolt, but something like this(the T handled one ) might work http://fastening-solutions.pivotpins.com/product/quick-release-solutions/positive-lock-pins? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
huskydave Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 Here is a cheep solution, take a long enough bolts install them from the bottom , then use a Big flat Washers nylock Nuts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemer Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 You should always start a bolt or nut by hand only at first and don't force it, finesse it. It either threads or it doesn't. It's just my way but I take them in as far as I can by hand before going to a wrench. Strengthens the fingers anyway so that no beer cap is too tuff. Good luck! Beemer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerryv Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 It also helps to thread them backwards first .. try and "feel" the threads seat themselves. I always use this method for finicky bolts, especially for something like a spark plug. You don't want those to ever cross-thread. You should always start a bolt or nut by hand only at first and don't force it, finesse it. It either threads or it doesn't. It's just my way but I take them in as far as I can by hand before going to a wrench. Strengthens the fingers anyway so that no beer cap is too tuff. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattcase09 Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 I found them much easier to install using a ball end bit driver. It seems to help with that funky angle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 I found them much easier to install using a ball end bit driver. It seems to help with that funky angle.T handled, ball end hex keys as well as a set of angled ones are something that everyone should have in their tool kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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