huskydave Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 I forgot to mention, my seat foam and cover much thicker that stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
huskydave Posted November 20, 2015 Share Posted November 20, 2015 Yesterday, I noticed that the front seat holder is a bracket held down with four 6m bolts. I added 1/2 " spacers and longer bolts, now front sits higher, which seams to help , haven't ridden it yet. The only down side is their a gap that needs filling so water can't in. Easy to deal with some rubber hose glued in place. At first I thought it might make it hard to reinstall, but no different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
invertedrr Posted November 27, 2015 Share Posted November 27, 2015 If anyone is still having issues with the seat bolts, it's because Yamaha taps their frames and then paints them. It happens all the time with their SxS's. The best course of action is to re tap the seat bolt threads and clean up the bolts with a dye. When in installing, do one lightly threaded in and then start the other one. It happens quite often. My source is that I work for Yamaha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amycyclenut Posted January 13, 2016 Share Posted January 13, 2016 http://fz07.org/post/49345/thread - this was my solution 2015 FZ-07 1986 FZ600 1974 CB450 1973 RD350 sold: 1970 CB350, 1972 CB175, 2009 Vespa S 150 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firstyammerha Posted April 18, 2017 Share Posted April 18, 2017 I thought a metric threaded stud and a wingnut would be easy but they're not very common at the local home supply stores. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gregjet Posted April 18, 2017 Share Posted April 18, 2017 amycyclenut. Did you instal a stud with a hole at right angles and use the pin. I like the idea and would like to see your whole solution. Go forth and modify my son...go forth and modify... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robbo10 Posted April 19, 2017 Share Posted April 19, 2017 I think velcro might work where the seat sides hug the frame (probably in to addition putting it where the bolts were). Only when I have to take the seat off again will I investigate this. Just do it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markstertt Posted April 21, 2017 Share Posted April 21, 2017 amycyclenut. Did you install a stud with a hole at right angles and use the pin. I like the idea and would like to see your whole solution. gregjet, after reading your request and considering various options I chose to go with the fixed post and hitch pin idea, I wanted to use stainless bolts to cut off for the posts but couldn't fine any without a goose chase so just cut off some M6-1.0 x 50mm bolts from my junk bin. You'll want to start with about 25mm of shank and adjust from there, cut off the threaded end so that you have enough threads left below for a nylon lock nut. You will also want to bias the pin hole on an outward diagonal so as to maximize ease of removal. I used SS hitch pins from Orchard supply and drilled the posts with a #51 drill bit to accommodate. Even if you loose a pin the seat can't come off the posts easily as the height of the post requires a decent tug up due to the fact that the seat needs to come back a bit to clear it's front mount, I find this fit a nice security feature but if you don't like it then you could trim the lower edge of the seats plastic front female receiver or elongate the 4 holes in the front mounts steel plate and slide the front steel seat mount slightly forward on the frame...I wouldn't bother as I like the way it came out as is...it works great and now, since access to the battery area is easier, I will fabricate and install a small tool box or ammo stash forward of the stock battery box where the Hord airbox left me room to play. pictures should be self explanatory as installed pin at aft outboard angle for ease of access Mark the pin for hole with seat mounted to put hole just above seat steel hat spacer, remove pin and drill in vise on drill press if available Pin shown at diagonal for ease of removal, M6-10 lock nut below, I actually turned the post to a bottomed out position before marking or drilling, nut just makes sure it stays as clocked Finished product works fine and if hole is accurately placed there is no slop, mine is actually slightly loaded, by accident but nice where can i upload photos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gregjet Posted April 21, 2017 Share Posted April 21, 2017 Very neat. Actually combining it with the previous velcro idea and it would really stay in place and not move around at all. Definitely have a look at this. I might look at going to 8mm stud and ass a rubber "spring" and a washer under the clip to load it a bit. Fine idea. It would have been good on my race bikes. Go forth and modify my son...go forth and modify... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted April 22, 2017 Share Posted April 22, 2017 I'm not under the seat enough to do this. But nice work. Gregjet, instead of a rubber washer to load the clip, why not add a wave washer - maybe even between the seat and the frame. https://www.amazon.com/Wave-Washers-26-Wave-Springs/b?ie=UTF8&node=16410981 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markstertt Posted April 22, 2017 Share Posted April 22, 2017 I'm not under the seat enough to do this. But nice work. Gregjet, instead of a rubber washer to load the clip, why not add a wave washer - maybe even between the seat and the frame. https://www.amazon.com/Wave-Washers-26-Wave-Springs/b?ie=UTF8&node=16410981 Good idea but seriously, this seat is secure and does not move, nothing else is needed...KISS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted April 22, 2017 Share Posted April 22, 2017 I'm not under the seat enough to do this. But nice work. Gregjet, instead of a rubber washer to load the clip, why not add a wave washer - maybe even between the seat and the frame. https://www.amazon.com/Wave-Washers-26-Wave-Springs/b?ie=UTF8&node=16410981 Good idea but seriously, this seat is secure and does not move, nothing else is needed...KISS Come to think of it, I rode the bike once after forgetting to put those bolts back in and didn't even notice until I saw the bolts on my table in the garage. Doh! Another "senior" moment, lol. You've got it captured front to back - no reason for it to move, especially with it sat upon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markstertt Posted April 22, 2017 Share Posted April 22, 2017 This stud and pin method is as secure and tight as the stock bolts, the steel hat spacer bottoms out before crushing the rubber grommet whether you use the bolt or a well placed hole in your stud and pin assy. If you actually want some preload, then grind a few thousandths of an inch off the bottom of the hat spacer and push down on it while marking for your pin hole, to do this easily just remove the grommet and steel hat spacer from the seat (to get seat out of your way) and slide it down over your M6 stud, push down to bottom the shortened spacer and mark your hole location. I can't think of a more secure and simpler solution to this seat bolt issue...Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted April 22, 2017 Share Posted April 22, 2017 Simple and cheap, erm, inexpensive. Always a good combo! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blankcheese Posted April 25, 2017 Share Posted April 25, 2017 I must have arrived, because the first "anything" I did to the bike was remove the seat. Went to put the screws back in, first time, stripped. I think it's a lousy design with that seat flap pushing you into a bad angle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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