feliz Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 Is that the size you have?Correct. 14x1.5x16 is the size of the drain plug. I put it on about 300 miles ago at my first service. Thanks Gaz, I'll pick one up, I see the same one you have on eBay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
O cooper Posted August 30, 2014 Share Posted August 30, 2014 Just purchased 3 Yamaha filters 5gh-13440-50-00 from motosport.com for $7.88 each. By far the cheapest I have seen them. Free shipping over $49 too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
armourbl Posted December 26, 2014 Share Posted December 26, 2014 +1 on Rotella. Buy it by the gallon at Walmart or wherever you find it cheap. I put it in everything I own that uses oil. ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
none Posted December 26, 2014 Share Posted December 26, 2014 Might as well add a little bit of extra oil change info in here: Drain Plug Socket = 17mm (Torque to 43 Nm) Oil Filter Wrench = "F" Type wrench (Torque to 17 Nm) I rarely use a oil filter wrench but this filter was on so damn tight from the factory that I had no other choice. I also, as a force of habit, do this when changing my oil: After draining the oil completely, I will pour 0.25 qts through the filler without the plug in. This may catch any metal and flush out debris stuck on the bottom of the drainpan. Clever, I like that. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
asjkhadfg Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 Ah, an oil thread... Shell Rotella T 15w-40, or T6 synthetic 5w-40. Both carry the JASO-MA rating and are safe to use in a wet clutch motorcycle. The non synthetic stuff sells for about $12 a gallon jug at Walmart. +1 Used Rotella on my last 5 bikes, and it works great. I know this is old, but I'm just wondering if rotella t6 is fine to use in the fz on my second oil change? I've seen a lot of people recommend 10w-40 but t6 is 5w-40 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cruizin Posted February 16, 2015 Author Share Posted February 16, 2015 It's fine. Good oil and used in almost all bikes. Yamaha MT-10 ForumYamaha Tracer 900 Forum Yamaha Ténéré 700 Forum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member freeman Posted March 25, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted March 25, 2015 Rotella? All I see at Walmart is Rotella for Diesel engines. Is there a specific bottle I should look for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member ch3rryghost Posted March 27, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted March 27, 2015 ^^I've been wondering that myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oscardms Posted March 27, 2015 Share Posted March 27, 2015 It is that diesel rotella you need. I used it for the first oil change, but switched back synthetic motorcycle oil. It ran fine with rotella, but my paranoia got the best of me since it isn't made for motorcycles. Lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p0k3yiii Posted March 27, 2015 Share Posted March 27, 2015 buddy got me a decent deal on royal purple 10w40 for 4 qts and k&n 204 for 4k oil change thats what imma roll with Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wlaukaitis Posted March 27, 2015 Share Posted March 27, 2015 Might as well add a little bit of extra oil change info in here: Drain Plug Socket = 17mm (Torque to 43 Nm) Oil Filter Wrench = "F" Type wrench (Torque to 17 Nm) I rarely use a oil filter wrench but this filter was on so damn tight from the factory that I had no other choice. I also, as a force of habit, do this when changing my oil: After draining the oil completely, I will pour 0.25 qts through the filler without the plug in. This may catch any metal and flush out debris stuck on the bottom of the drainpan. This is a good idea! I will have an extras 1/4 quart I can spare! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USMCFieldMP Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 I rarely use a oil filter wrench but this filter was on so damn tight from the factory that I had no other choice. I just did my 4000 mile change (had the dealer do the 600 mile) and I had to pull out a pair of adjustable pliers to get mine off. My oil socket (probably 1 or 2 millimeters too big), oil wrench, and strap wrench all failed to get it to budge. I've seen a lot of people recommend 10w-40 but t6 is 5w-40 What oil weight you use should be based on what the temperature range you plan to ride in. See the image that @guru posted below. Personally, I just went with Motul 7100 4T in 20W50; I'm in a very hot climate area though. Might as well post this pic here too so everything is in one place: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/33459059/oil.png Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gregjet Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 Ok I tried to find out for sure but haven't come up with whether the MT07 as iron coated pistons yet. What really matters is if the pistons have a soft iron coating. It is pretty common these days. I know a few Suzuki's have them (eg . sv650's). IF the pistons are soft iron coated the whole reason is for the bore and the piston iron so polish each other. For that reason you should use mineral oil for the first 5000km ( Change it as often as you want for this), so the iron coating can polish, as synth is way too slippery. There is a very good discussion on a ducati forum somewhere between several oil engineers about what oil to use and the ALL use diesel motor synthetic oil not motorcycle oil. Just don't use car oil with friction modifiers if you have a wet clutch. Has anyone had the pistons out. Are they iron coated? Go forth and modify my son...go forth and modify... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cruizin Posted April 3, 2015 Author Share Posted April 3, 2015 I havent seen anyone take the pistons out yet. Am interested to see. You could try calling a dealer, but most5 of their techs would probably say "Duh, whats a piston"? Ok, I'm joking, well, mostly.. 1 Yamaha MT-10 ForumYamaha Tracer 900 Forum Yamaha Ténéré 700 Forum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itch808 Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 Just a tip for those that don't know, an excellent car oil filter that fits our bikes is: Purolator's PureONE Filter PL-14610 / 14612 They're pretty commonly used among bikes even though they're made for cars. The specs are nearly identical to Yamaha's. Excellent filtration/construction + lower price Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yamahaha Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 I used to like Napa gold filters but not anymore. Changed the filter on my Suzuki and found a long thread of silicon type material had unraveled from the filter. It could have easily been sucked into the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yamahaha Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 insI know this is old, but I'm just wondering if rotella t6 is fine to use in the fz on my second oil change? I've seen a lot of people recommend 10w-40 but t6 is 5w-40 One thing I've noticed about Shell rotella is they do not provide the important numbers. They tell a good story however. Flash point, viscosity index, high temp/high shear viscosity, and TBN would be specifications I would like to see. If anyone has them post them up please. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbird Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 Is yamalube synthetic oil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member phicurious86 Posted April 14, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted April 14, 2015 Amazon has a pretty amazing deal on castrol motorcycle oil - http://www.amazon.com/Castrol-06078-10W-40-4-Stroke-Motorcycle/dp/B008MISDH4/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1428974827&sr=1-4&keywords=castrol+2+stroke+oil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member so1102 Posted April 14, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted April 14, 2015 Amazon has a pretty amazing deal on castrol motorcycle oil - http://www.amazon.com/Castrol-06078-10W-40-4-Stroke-Motorcycle/dp/B008MISDH4/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1428974827&sr=1-4&keywords=castrol+2+stroke+oil I already have 4 quarts of that on hand, but I am waiting until after the 600 mile service to switch to full synthetic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nlsquare Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 I'm not having any luck finding mobil oil in my area. My local stores do sell royal purple 15w-40 for 15$ a quart though. However, as I look through amazon just to compare prices, i see that there's many type? Do I need to get motorcycle oil? or would this one do? anybody tried it before? With the cost of oil/filter, since my bike is under warranty still, if i let the dealership do it would cost me about 50$ more. Kinda tempted to let them do it since if by bad luck i have a problem with my motor, they can't blame me. What do you guys think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yamahaha Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 I take a quick video of odometer, new oil, and oil filter when I do a service. I also show the old oil draining briefly. I keep them till the warranty period is up. You need a Jaso Ma rated oil. 15/40 is fine as long as it has the rating. Many have the dealer do the first service for peace of mind. If engine/transmission/clutch are faulty it will most likely show up in the first few thousand miles. Its up to you. Main thing is to have receipts and proof you did the services. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cavedog Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 I rarely use a oil filter wrench but this filter was on so damn tight from the factory that I had no other choice.I just did my 4000 mile change (had the dealer do the 600 mile) and I had to pull out a pair of adjustable pliers to get mine off. My oil socket (probably 1 or 2 millimeters too big), oil wrench, and strap wrench all failed to get it to budge. One trick I've used to get stubborn oil filters off is to drive a flat blade screwdriver through the oil filter, and just use the handle of the screwdriver to loosen it. If you do this, be very careful of 2 things: 1.) don't touch any of the sharp metal protrusions on the far side of the filter where the screwdriver comes through 2.) make sure you have clearance, and aren't sending the screwdriver into any other components, or the filter threads. Use this method only if you can't get the filter off with a filter wrench. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeepinbassist Posted June 6, 2015 Share Posted June 6, 2015 Just a tip for those that don't know, an excellent car oil filter that fits our bikes is: Purolator's PureONE Filter PL-14610 / 14612 They're pretty commonly used among bikes even though they're made for cars. The specs are nearly identical to Yamaha's. Excellent filtration/construction + lower price Will an L14612 filter work. It seems to be the same but it's not a Purolator One Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member rowdy Posted June 6, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted June 6, 2015 Just a tip for those that don't know, an excellent car oil filter that fits our bikes is: Purolator's PureONE Filter PL-14610 / 14612 They're pretty commonly used among bikes even though they're made for cars. The specs are nearly identical to Yamaha's. Excellent filtration/construction + lower price Will an L14612 filter work. It seems to be the same but it's not a Purolator One Yes it will fit. It's just a step down in the Purolator range from the PureOne. The PureOne has a huge reputation as one of the best made filters around. The standard Purolator is fine though, just more like any other standard auto replacement filters. Why can't left turners see us? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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