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Adjusting chain slack


Killafornia

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Killafornia

I know this should be simple but I don't wanna mess this up so I'm gonna double check with you guys.
Did any of you have a hard time loosening the axle nut? I'm trying to turn it counter-clockwise hard but at the same time I'm being careful cause I don't wanna damage anything. Do I have to do this while the bike is on a center stand? I'm doing this according to the manual btw.
 
Thanks!

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Guest MXRider

It doesn't have to be done on a stand, but it does make it easier. The nut is on there with a fair amount of torque so don't be afraid to put some muscle in it. Yes its your normal thread pattern so counter clockwise will loosen it. Be sure when you are adjusting to keep the wheel centered and follow the guidelines for slack in the owners manual.

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Killafornia

I'm literally moving the bike already from trying. I hope I dont have to unlock something first before loosening it.

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Guest MXRider

If you are worried about the bike moving on you, have someone hold it to keep it stable. It's not uncommon to have to use a fairly long breaker bar to get them loose sometimes. They are usually torqued pretty high from the factory.

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I watched my dealer adjust my chain slack.The handle on the wrench he was using was a good 18" long. the axle bolt was on there pretty snug. he just used the side stand.

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Killafornia

That will probably do it. I have like an 8" wrench and the nut wasn't very snug in the socket. I'm a little hesitant now to do it again coz I did a bit of damage on the axle nut from trying.

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That will probably do it. I have like an 8" wrench and the nut wasn't very snug in the socket. I'm a little hesitant now to do it again coz I did a bit of damage on the axle nut from trying.
Go out and pick up a torque wrench. They are inexpensive and will pay for themselves over time, especially if you do your own maintenance and repairs. The handles are usually long enough that you don't need a breaker bar but as mxrider said, sometimes you just gotta use one. Any piece of hollow steel that is long and fits over the wrench would work well. I have a piece that came out of my camper that is 8 feet long, maybe over doing it but I have never had a problem with a nut yet, haha.

Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.

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Guest MXRider

Don't use a torque wrench to break fasteners loose. It will throw off the calibration. You want to use a breaker bar. I have one that is about 18" long that I use on pesky bolts. But normally I can get away with a foot long 1/2" drive ratchet on axle nuts.

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I didn't realize that, thanks for the heads up.

Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.

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  • 1 year later...
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Does anyone know what size socket to use on the rear axle, and is it also for the front axle too?

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wickedtwister

Start with the breaker bar or ratchet parallel to the ground so any rotational force you put into it goes straight down and not forward. Side stand will do fine but I use paddock stand as its easier.

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...and, if you have damaged the nut at all, go buy another from Yami; cheap, easy insurance.

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I use a 1" 1/16'  6 point socket on mine.  You can get away with standard wrenches and sockets on the big metric stuff but not the small stuff.
 

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Also, when I used to work on Chrysler hemis--the first ones (1951-'58) when disassembling the engine the manual specifically called for using an impact wrench to remove fasteners like head-bolts. Why? Simple, the "bang" of the impact hammers in the wrench sent a shock to the bolt and was less apt to damage threads than simply (and carefully) "easing" the bolt loose.
 
SO... use the correct socket (right, a quality 1-1/16" 6-point will do just fine), use at least a 15" break-over handle and BANG the end of it with your hand or a hammer... really! Am I sure, yeah... I just tightened my chain for the first time this afternoon in just a few minutes. No issues, and it retightens back to 76 pound/feet, btw. The Owners Manual is really very good in this section.
 
(All this, of course, assumes most here don't have impact wrenches... I do, but it wasn't worth firing up the compressor and running the hose over for this one nut, when my fist would do just fine.)
 

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