caliesv Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 Question for anyone who's replace stock with either pro taper or Renthal bars. Did you drill a hole into the bars for the controls or grind the tabs off the control housing? Reason? And would you rather have done the opposite? Thanks in advance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
booboobusfz07 Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 I just ground the tabs and did a single wrap with electrical tape. I've had zero issues so far and it was a lot less stressful than figuring out where to drill the holes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caliesv Posted April 25, 2016 Author Share Posted April 25, 2016 I just ground the tabs and did a single wrap with electrical tape. I've had zero issues so far and it was a lot less stressful than figuring out where to drill the holes. Do the mounts hold tight? No movement or slippage? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
booboobusfz07 Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 I haven't had any issues. It's only the switches & throttle that have tabs. Levers don't have tabs. I've got a single wrap of electrical tape under everything and it's been enough to keep everything from moving, throttle&Levers included. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Global Moderator sorkyah Posted April 25, 2016 Global Moderator Share Posted April 25, 2016 I drilled out small locator holes in my renthals because the alum is pretty thick i didnt need to drill more than halfway through the bar ATGATT... ATTATT, two acronyms I live by. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caliesv Posted April 25, 2016 Author Share Posted April 25, 2016 I drilled out small locator holes in my renthals because the alum is pretty thick i didnt need to drill more than halfway through the bar In your opinion, this was the better choice? I'm thinking of drilling too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpc46 Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 Drilling. They are there for a reason. Take a pen and color on the bottom on the tab. Mock the assembly on the bars, that will leave a small mark from the pen you used. Drill in that mark. That will get you super close to where you need it to be. Try and get a bit that is close to the correct size. It's aluminum, it drills super easily. Better to do it correct first time then not do it and find out there is an issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caliesv Posted April 25, 2016 Author Share Posted April 25, 2016 Drilling. They are there for a reason. Take a pen and color on the bottom on the tab. Mock the assembly on the bars, that will leave a small mark from the pen you used. Drill in that mark. That will get you super close to where you need it to be. Try and get a bit that is close to the correct size. It's aluminum, it drills super easily. Better to do it correct first time then not do it and find out there is an issue. Agreed. Thanks man! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
booboobusfz07 Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 I would've had a panic attack had I tried drilling em so I went the easy way. I was worried I'd have issues but going on 2months 0 issues. Honestly it's been nice cause I've adjusted things at least 3 or 4 times to dial it in. I'm not stuck with them in any one place. So if wanna change the tilt in the bars or adjust anything I can w/o issue or extra work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Global Moderator sorkyah Posted April 26, 2016 Global Moderator Share Posted April 26, 2016 I drilled out small locator holes in my renthals because the alum is pretty thick i didnt need to drill more than halfway through the bar In your opinion, this was the better choice? I'm thinking of drilling toodrilling i used a single wrap of electrical tape to mock up the location i wanted the nub to end up. after the nub made an impression, i center-punched the bar where the impression was removed the tape and used a 5/32 drill bit to create a large enough divot for the nub to sit in. it isn't hard by any means to drill it. i would recommend leaving the bar ends off though, in-case you go all the way through the bar you can just blow the shavings out with compressed air. ATGATT... ATTATT, two acronyms I live by. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caliesv Posted April 26, 2016 Author Share Posted April 26, 2016 In your opinion, this was the better choice? I'm thinking of drilling toodrilling i used a single wrap of electrical tape to mock up the location i wanted the nub to end up. after the nub made an impression, i center-punched the bar where the impression was removed the tape and used a 5/32 drill bit to create a large enough divot for the nub to sit in. it isn't hard by any means to drill it. i would recommend leaving the bar ends off though, in-case you go all the way through the bar you can just blow the shavings out with compressed air. Nice. Thanks for the tips. I'm drilling when I get the bars. What bars do you guys have? I was looking at the pro taper Evo. I dont want an aggressive Superbike feeling, I want something close to stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Global Moderator sorkyah Posted April 26, 2016 Global Moderator Share Posted April 26, 2016 drilling i used a single wrap of electrical tape to mock up the location i wanted the nub to end up. after the nub made an impression, i center-punched the bar where the impression was removed the tape and used a 5/32 drill bit to create a large enough divot for the nub to sit in. it isn't hard by any means to drill it. i would recommend leaving the bar ends off though, in-case you go all the way through the bar you can just blow the shavings out with compressed air. Nice. Thanks for the tips. I'm drilling when I get the bars. What bars do you guys have? I was looking at the pro taper Evo. I dont want an aggressive Superbike feeling, I want something close to stock i purchased the Renthal Street-fighter bars. Loved em. will be purchasing a second set once the insurance finalizes all their "paperwork" ATGATT... ATTATT, two acronyms I live by. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caliesv Posted April 26, 2016 Author Share Posted April 26, 2016 Nice. Thanks for the tips. I'm drilling when I get the bars. What bars do you guys have? I was looking at the pro taper Evo. I dont want an aggressive Superbike feeling, I want something close to stock i purchased the Renthal Street-fighter bars. Loved em. will be purchasing a second set once the insurance finalizes all their "paperwork" Mind posting some pics? ☺ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frabus Posted April 26, 2016 Share Posted April 26, 2016 Nice. Thanks for the tips. I'm drilling when I get the bars. What bars do you guys have? I was looking at the pro taper Evo. I dont want an aggressive Superbike feeling, I want something close to stock i purchased the Renthal Street-fighter bars. Loved em. will be purchasing a second set once the insurance finalizes all their "paperwork" Whats the difference between the street fighters and the ultralows? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Global Moderator sorkyah Posted April 26, 2016 Global Moderator Share Posted April 26, 2016 i purchased the Renthal Street-fighter bars. Loved em. will be purchasing a second set once the insurance finalizes all their "paperwork" Whats the difference between the street fighters and the ultralows? Ultra-low measurements Street-fighter measurements ATGATT... ATTATT, two acronyms I live by. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caliesv Posted April 26, 2016 Author Share Posted April 26, 2016 How does the street fighter feel compared to stock? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlbatrossCafe Posted April 26, 2016 Share Posted April 26, 2016 I have Renthal ultra-lows. I ground off the nubs and used electrical tape wrapped once underneath. There has been no slipping at all in ~3000 miles. I did this because I like to have the ability to adjust my controls if needed (e.g. if I put other mods on the bars or headlight and want to move stuff around). I also like that I can resell the Renthals if I don't need them instead of the buyer being turned away because of some arbitrary holes. I don't know why people think the nubs are so important. Some think they are there to prevent movement of the controls. I think they may be there so that when Yamaha is putting controls on at the factory that the control locations are all standardized across each FZ produced. Here is a thread I made that has some pics of the Ultra-Low's held up next to the stock: http://fz07.org/thread/4681/renthal-ultra-arrow-mirrors-throttle They don't quite turn the bike into a supersport but for someone who is 6'2" I went from sitting pretty much completely straight up and down to leaning slightly over. Although it is slight it makes as huge difference. Easier to not fall back when accelerating hard, you get a little less wind, and it is much easier on my arms/shoulders to do a full-tuck on the tank. Dual headlights or deathhttp://fz07.org/thread/5384/albatrosscafes-galleryhttp://fz07.org/thread/5174/dual-headlight-upgrade-completed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caliesv Posted April 26, 2016 Author Share Posted April 26, 2016 Nice write up @albatrosscafe. And both sides of the argument about the damn nubs are compelling! Dammit lol From what I could gather, for anyone interested, here are some basic bar measurements: stock: W: 27in = 685mm Rise: 2. 25in = 57mm H: 3in = 76mm Renthal Streetfighter: W: 29.8inch = 759mm Rise: 2.28in = 58mm H: 3.9in = 101mm Ultalow: W: 28.8in = 733mm Rise: 1.6in = 42mm H: 2.9in = 74mm ProTaper: W: 31.5in = 800mm I really like the way the protapers look, but can't justify them being so wide. Looks like I'll be going with the street fighter myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
booboobusfz07 Posted April 26, 2016 Share Posted April 26, 2016 Nice write up @albatrosscafe. And both sides of the argument about the damn nubs are compelling! Dammit lol From what I could gather, for anyone interested, here are some basic bar measurements: stock: W: 27in = 685mm Rise: 2. 25in = 57mm H: 3in = 76mm Renthal Streetfighter: W: 29.8inch = 759mm Rise: 2.28in = 58mm H: 3.9in = 101mm Ultalow: W: 28.8in = 733mm Rise: 1.6in = 42mm H: 2.9in = 74mm ProTaper: W: 31.5in = 800mm I really like the way the protapers look, but can't justify them being so wide. Looks like I'll be going with the street fighter myself. Something to take into account with the width, the bar ends are at least 1/2in under the grips on the oe bars. So in regards to perceived width knock at least an inch off all your comparisons in terms of practical application. I mounted my bar ends on the bar further moving my grips in so theoretically that's a total of 2in total length off listed measurements. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caliesv Posted April 29, 2016 Author Share Posted April 29, 2016 If anyone has the renthal street fighter bar, is it possible to get a diameter measurement of the center cross bar for me? I'd be highly great full ☺ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member blackout Posted May 5, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted May 5, 2016 Nice write up @albatrosscafe . And both sides of the argument about the damn nubs are compelling! Dammit lol From what I could gather, for anyone interested, here are some basic bar measurements: stock: W: 27in = 685mm Rise: 2. 25in = 57mm H: 3in = 76mm Renthal Streetfighter: W: 29.8inch = 759mm Rise: 2.28in = 58mm H: 3.9in = 101mm Ultalow: W: 28.8in = 733mm Rise: 1.6in = 42mm H: 2.9in = 74mm ProTaper: W: 31.5in = 800mm I really like the way the protapers look, but can't justify them being so wide. Looks like I'll be going with the street fighter myself. Something to take into account with the width, the bar ends are at least 1/2in under the grips on the oe bars. So in regards to perceived width knock at least an inch off all your comparisons in terms of practical application. I mounted my bar ends on the bar further moving my grips in so theoretically that's a total of 2in total length off listed measurements. True, but the overall width for the stock bars is 27" measured from end of grips. A lot of these bars may come wide so that you can cut to your liking. Craig Mapstone Upstate New York Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caliesv Posted May 5, 2016 Author Share Posted May 5, 2016 Something to take into account with the width, the bar ends are at least 1/2in under the grips on the oe bars. So in regards to perceived width knock at least an inch off all your comparisons in terms of practical application. I mounted my bar ends on the bar further moving my grips in so theoretically that's a total of 2in total length off listed measurements. True, but the overall width for the stock bars is 27" measured from end of grips. A lot of these bars may come wide so that you can cut to your liking. I didn't even think about cutting them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topazsparrow Posted May 5, 2016 Share Posted May 5, 2016 Drilling. They are there for a reason. Take a pen and color on the bottom on the tab. Mock the assembly on the bars, that will leave a small mark from the pen you used. Drill in that mark. That will get you super close to where you need it to be. Try and get a bit that is close to the correct size. It's aluminum, it drills super easily. Better to do it correct first time then not do it and find out there is an issue. I just did the R6 tube mod and it looks like my "nub" was ground down already. Does the dealer put the throttle on when they PDI the bike? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member rowdy Posted May 5, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted May 5, 2016 I used the ulta-low and I drilled them on the throttle side, but not the switch side. I did have to correct the drill holes a bit, which was kind of a pain, but no big deal. Why can't left turners see us? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemer Posted May 5, 2016 Share Posted May 5, 2016 Nice. Thanks for the tips. I'm drilling when I get the bars. What bars do you guys have? I was looking at the pro taper Evo. I dont want an aggressive Superbike feeling, I want something close to stock i purchased the Renthal Street-fighter bars. Loved em. will be purchasing a second set once the insurance finalizes all their "paperwork" Those look nice, man! Compared to the stock bars, are they wider/higher? What say you? Beemer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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