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Gearing and Sprocket(s) question


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I have watched a few vids and done a couple hours worth of research but haven't really found what I am looking for.
 
I am constantly freeway riding at 75-90mph.  I would like my FZ-07 to be a little more ECO friendly at these speeds and help out my mpg.  I am not worried about the torque curve etc.  I feel this bike has ample power down low and could use a little more spreading out. 
 
I understand that our bikes run a 16/43.  My question is can I run a 17-18 up front and get away with stock rear and chain? Is that even possible?  Wear on chain etc going to be a factor?
 
I have input the data into gearing commander and understand what it is saying numbers wise.
 
Anyone have some expertise on this or have a similar setup?
 
 
 

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Bookmarked, I'd like to know as well. Thinking about going up 1 tooth on the front to make everything taller and make 1st more useful and 6th more highway friendly. Completely pulling this out of my butt but especially after the chain has stretched from new, the adjusters on the swingarm look to have plenty of adjustability for the slightly extra length needed. I also havn't crunched any numbers on if I'd like the gearing, I only had this thought during my commute today.
 
EDIT: I never knew of that gearing commander website but just visited it and went through some scenarios. 1 tooth extra up front doesn't seem to make much of a difference, but that plus 2 teeth less on the back drops the 70MPH rpm's from 4700 to 4200 which sounds better. And for 1st gear if you waited until 4500 rpm to shift you'd get to 25MPH versus 22. Sounds better, but I can't quite tell if the chain length required between the two setups are close enough to the same but it seems like it would be. I wonder what the cost of the two new sprockets would be, never looked into that sort of thing

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lldemonll

MPG will see VERY little change at those speeds.
 
Calculate how much the RPM will change with the gearing change, that will tell you if it's worthwhile or not. In my car (similar concept) I get ~26 doing 75-80 and I get nearly the same doing 60-65 on the freeway. Yet the RPM difference between 65 and 80 is 1500
 
More RPM doesn't mean you're using more gas if the engine is low load. Drop the RPM down too much and you're loading up the engine and making it less efficient. Aerodynamics are the bigger factor here, not gearing.

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@varo is looking for a bump in MPG, I'm looking for taller gearing to make 1st useful for longer before shiftng and after a dead stop, and have the engine scream a little less at highway speeds

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phicurious86
MPG will see VERY little change at those speeds. 
Calculate how much the RPM will change with the gearing change, that will tell you if it's worthwhile or not. In my car (similar concept) I get ~26 doing 75-80 and I get nearly the same doing 60-65 on the freeway. Yet the RPM difference between 65 and 80 is 1500
 
More RPM doesn't mean you're using more gas if the engine is low load. Drop the RPM down too much and you're loading up the engine and making it less efficient. Aerodynamics are the bigger factor here, not gearing.
Probably right about the MPG change. If you're not moving the gearing enough to allow you consistently operate in a higher gear than you originally did, don't expect much extra mileage. A fueling change would be a better route for that goal. 
Getting more use out of the lower gears and a little less engine buzz at free way speed is doable for sure.
 
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07echelon

Traditionally, if you're changing any sprocket, the other sprocket and the chain are replaced as well. That way the wear from old components don't impact the new one harshly. If your bike is near brand new (<500 miles), then you can reuse the stock parts.
 
If you are intent on keeping the old chain, you can simply give it a shot. If your chain has slacked enough, you'll be able to fit the new front sprocket and meet chain slack spec. Worst case is you end up buying a new chain.
 
Whatever you end up buying, make sure the sprocket/chain you are buying is made for the chain/sprocket. As in, don't buy a 525 chain for 520 sprockets.
 
 
 
 
 

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MPG will see VERY little change at those speeds. 
Calculate how much the RPM will change with the gearing change, that will tell you if it's worthwhile or not. In my car (similar concept) I get ~26 doing 75-80 and I get nearly the same doing 60-65 on the freeway. Yet the RPM difference between 65 and 80 is 1500
 
More RPM doesn't mean you're using more gas if the engine is low load. Drop the RPM down too much and you're loading up the engine and making it less efficient. Aerodynamics are the bigger factor here, not gearing.
Probably right about the MPG change. If you're not moving the gearing enough to allow you consistently operate in a higher gear than you originally did, don't expect much extra mileage. A fueling change would be a better route for that goal. 
Getting more use out of the lower gears and a little less engine buzz at free way speed is doable for sure. 
 
 
I am looking for more MPG but honestly I really want the bike to run lower in rpm's around 90mph.  Especially now with an exhaust it just seems to always be screaming when I jump on any highway.  Around town is perfectly fine how it is.
 
07echelon my bike is till new.  I did a hard break-in at a race shop and have been upgrading ever since. I have just under 500 miles.  I really want to know if bumping the front sproket, to lets say, an 18 would impact the rear and chain or am I better off just buying a package and doing it that way?  Trying to save a few bucks here and there but willing to spend if its necessary.
 
 
Demon, I have already ordered the ermax windscreen which will only be used for highway rides.  My bike stays in my garage about 40 miles away from my home.  Now that the weather is getting better I will be taking her home with me more often.  Just planning in advance.  
 
 
Thanks for the input so far everyone.
 
 
 
 
 
 

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I've always heard that changing a tooth in the front is like going up or down 3 in the rear.
 
The old college try never hurt anyone. I'd go for the 17t sprocket in the front, 18 might be too much.

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bmwpowere36m3

Lower RPM doesn't mean better MPG... engines typically operate most efficiently at their peak VE (volumetric efficiency). IIRC, peak VE occurs at peak torque in the RPM range.
 
Inline engines like these, generally operate more efficiently at higher RPM.
 
On an upright motorcycle like ours, drag is a killer and it increases exponentially with speed. I bet you'd find better mileage simply going slower, but probably not huge in the 55-80 mph range.

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Guest Ralph

Though I don't think the bike needs a change in gearing it's a bit over geared as it is,
going up one on the front is about equal to going down 2.5 on the rear and is better
for the chain, but be sure the chain as clearance round the front sprocket though I
think it will have.

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After some checking around i can't even find a 17 and up for the front so it looks like I will be going -3 in the back. Gonna search around some more for the proper setup.

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Guest Ralph

I seem to remember that a front sprocket from another Yamaha fits and is available in more sizes
but cant remember which model it is.

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I seem to remember that a front sprocket from another Yamaha fits and is available in more sizes but cant remember which model it is.
 
 
Ok I'll do some research into that. Going to take a ride to the dealer soon.
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orangecrush

I went down a tooth on the front. From memory I'm not sure there's room to go up to 17 teeth.
 
Front sprocket also fits the following bikes:
 
 
2016-05-07%2020.37.52.jpg

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So I was told to get in my desired range to go to a 42 rear sprocket or if I wanted a more drastic change to go to a 520 chain with a 17t front and 42 rear (from one of the service guys at yamaha). Dont know if or what I am going to do as of yet. My head is kind of frazzled from all this lol
 
 

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  • 9 months later...
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What does one do to fix the speedometer reading, or will changing sprockets not change it on the FZ? Thanks.

Craig Mapstone
Upstate New York

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Vortex makes a 17 tooth front and it works, I installed it today.
 
Speedo will read lower, I assume it did read high before the swap.

Got new red 2015 FZ-07 on 7/22/16!
Black 2006 Honda ST1300 53K miles.

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Also I installed the 17t front, and like the bike's response so much better!
 
Not sure if I'll switch the rear sprocket at this time.
I don't notice a whole lot of difference in 1st Gear, but the throttle definitely is less jerky, and going all out in the powerband in 2nd gear, doesn't allow accidental popping of a wheelie anymore!
 
I like it!

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If you want to be more "eco friendly" you can simply use ethanol free gasoline. It burns more efficiently, therefore giving you better mpg. You're welcome! :D
 

Beemer

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If you want to be more "eco friendly" you can simply use ethanol free gasoline. It burns more efficiently, therefore giving you better mpg. You're welcome! :D
It's more expensive and not available at most stations....  But you already know that.  :)

Craig Mapstone
Upstate New York

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I already use SHell gasoline.
It uses well below the 10% ethanol levels (est 5%).
BP uses even less than that.
 
Only one station mixes ethanol to 10% or more, and that's Chevron.
I only get gas there, if i can't anywhere else; since they're basically the only gas station around that's open between midnight to 6AM while all others are closed.

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If you want to be more "eco friendly" you can simply use ethanol free gasoline. It burns more efficiently, therefore giving you better mpg. You're welcome! :D
It's more expensive and not available at most stations....  But you already know that.  :)
That was for varo's information. Maybe it is available to him like it is for me and maybe he doesn't mind paying a little extra for it either. He can think and speak for himself but you already knew that. :) 

Beemer

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