Motorboat McGoat Posted May 14, 2016 Share Posted May 14, 2016 I have a 2015 FZ07, full Yoshimura exhaust, and an EJK. The baffle has launched out of the exhaust twice now (once pretty close to a friend). It was installed correctly, I used blue loc-tite (local shop recommended it) and torqued to whatever the Yoshimura manual recommended. Do I need to use red loc-tite and make it permanent, or is that bad? What are your thoughts as to why that would happen? I'd like to keep a baffle in as both 2WDW and Dobeck have both said that it performs better with the baffle in. Halp! x_x P.S. Both times it occurred after a medium length ride, pretty pinned coming down a canyon, so it was likely quite hot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigdaddybane Posted May 14, 2016 Share Posted May 14, 2016 Does baffle has any play? This is the first time I heard that buffle got launched out of the exhaust My take on this ... something is definitely wrong with the screw that hold silencer in place. BTW, what happened to original one that came with the exhaust? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xeon Posted May 14, 2016 Share Posted May 14, 2016 So you have the set screw installed on the side of the muffler and the baffle still dislodges? 2016 Raven (White) ~ Akrapovic Carbon Exhaust / 2WDW ECU Flash / CRG LS Mirrors / Seat Concepts Seat / Givi Windscreen / OES Sliders / R6 Throttle Tube / Ohlins YA419 & NIX22 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duenan Posted May 14, 2016 Share Posted May 14, 2016 I don't know what to tell you. I've had the baffle in for several thousand miles with no issues. Then I took it out and the screw was still in there snug and tight. You should just keep the baffle out since it doesn't really make it any more quiet. Just seems to change the tone. EDIT. Oh right, didn't see that last part until now. The difference really is negligible if you ask me. Too many people are hung up on numbers. Engaging with people that have personality disorders on a message board is like arguing with a rock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Motorboat McGoat Posted May 14, 2016 Author Share Posted May 14, 2016 "Does baffle has any play?" .......... "BTW, what happened to original one that came with the exhaust?" No, it's a VERY tight fit in the exhaust. The first one shot out while in the canyon, lost forever; didn't notice until we were down the canyon in a parking lot, it's a lot more noticeable at lower speeds than when the RPM's are high. "So you have the set screw installed on the side of the muffler and the baffle still dislodges?" The first time the screw was bouncing around inside of the muffler, I had to take it off the bike (pita) and roll it around until the screw came out. I bought a new one directly from Yosh, and talked to a guy of theirs about it, applied the loc tite and torqued it down, everything screwed in just fine again. It lasted two months or so. The 'new' screw was inside the muffler again, I used a magnet to draw it out of the little hole that has the rubber seal on it. Screw looks fine, threads are blackened. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Motorboat McGoat Posted May 14, 2016 Author Share Posted May 14, 2016 This is the weirdest issue ever. If I did say screw it, and just left it out, does anyone know if that makes the bike run more lean or more rich? I have the EJK so changes can be made. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
booboobusfz07 Posted May 14, 2016 Share Posted May 14, 2016 If locktite doesn't keep it there my only suggestion is to add it to the list of things frequently checked on the bike. Double checking the tightness of it semi frequently will probably prevent it from happening again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigity Posted May 14, 2016 Share Posted May 14, 2016 Same thing happened to my Yoshi. I was riding with a couple friends. Pulled hard from a stop light, lifting the front wheel. They said it missiled out the back when I hammered on the throttle. This was after two hours of riding in the hot summer. I can only guess that the heat expands the metal loosening the interference fit of the baffle. How the bolt got out is beyond my reasoning..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Motorboat McGoat Posted May 14, 2016 Author Share Posted May 14, 2016 Same thing happened to my Yoshi. I was riding with a couple friends. Pulled hard from a stop light, lifting the front wheel. They said it missiled out the back when I hammered on the throttle. Haha my friend on his R6 said he flinched when he saw it coming, geez... Have you since replaced it or just let it be? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member norcal616 Posted May 14, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted May 14, 2016 Either use ultra high temp safe loc tote or have a friend put a tack weld in place to never let it come out 2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition...2015 fj-09- 120whp- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich Race Kit- tuned by 2WDW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemer Posted May 14, 2016 Share Posted May 14, 2016 I think that bigity is on to something so I have this idea. I have no idea what your pipe is like but if you wanted to, would you be able to reach the screw inside the pipe after it's installed/tightened? The reason I ask is I was wondering if it can be reached, then maybe some liquid steel drizzled over that screw might help keep it in place even if anything expands and loosens or whatever. It just might hold it in place no matter the reason. Just a thought, it could be a dumb idea, IDK. Good luck with it! Beemer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigdaddybane Posted May 14, 2016 Share Posted May 14, 2016 Same thing happened to my Yoshi. I was riding with a couple friends. Pulled hard from a stop light, lifting the front wheel. They said it missiled out the back when I hammered on the throttle. This was after two hours of riding in the hot summer. I can only guess that the heat expands the metal loosening the interference fit of the baffle. How the bolt got out is beyond my reasoning..... If this seems to be happening to other people I wouldn't waste any time but contact Yoshimura immediately. If installation was done properly which I'm sure it was, that bolt/screw is defective or/and made with out of spec material with a poor temperature tolerance. Forget about losing the baffle, Yoshimura folks should be aware this thing can do some major damage to whoever and whatever happen to be behind the bike. I wouldn't waste my time trying to "fix" the problem because clearly something is wrong with the whole silencer assembly ... just sayin'. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigity Posted May 14, 2016 Share Posted May 14, 2016 I guess you could say I replaced it.......with a termignoni...so I cant really be of any help at this point. I just wanted to contribute my experience to corroborate the problem. The liquid steel might work, but bigdaddybane is right. We shouldn't have to fix it. It should work of its own design. And yeah, I'd hate to be behind someone when this happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmwpowere36m3 Posted May 14, 2016 Share Posted May 14, 2016 What holds it in, other than friction? A setscrew pressing on the baffle, or is the baffle threaded as well to accept the screw? On the Akrapovic, the screw threads into the baffle and uses a toothed washer under the head to keep it from loosening. I haven't used the baffle yet, but I haven't heard of them being ejected.... usually the opposite, very difficult to remove. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duenan Posted May 14, 2016 Share Posted May 14, 2016 After a few thousand miles of heat cycling, my baffle was stuck in place, I had to hammer it out with a flat head screw driver and hammer from the opposite side of the can. But as far as what's holding it in place, the baffle itself is threaded. The can has no threading. Just a hole that is smaller than the button head of the bolt. You line up the baffle with the hole, slip the bolt through the hole and into the baffle thread. Once you screw it in tight, the button head compresses against the hole lip of the can. If the baffle is not super snug inside the can, you can see why possibly the baffle bolt will vibrate out since it isn't threaded on both the baffle and can. Engaging with people that have personality disorders on a message board is like arguing with a rock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigity Posted May 14, 2016 Share Posted May 14, 2016 After a few thousand miles of heat cycling, my baffle was stuck in place, I had to hammer it out with a flat head screw driver and hammer from the opposite side of the can. If you take it fit a hard ride, get it really hot, it should be much easier to remove. We would always heat up stuck items at the shop, they come out much easier that way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmwpowere36m3 Posted May 15, 2016 Share Posted May 15, 2016 After a few thousand miles of heat cycling, my baffle was stuck in place, I had to hammer it out with a flat head screw driver and hammer from the opposite side of the can. But as far as what's holding it in place, the baffle itself is threaded. The can has no threading. Just a hole that is smaller than the button head of the bolt. You line up the baffle with the hole, slip the bolt through the hole and into the baffle thread. Once you screw it in tight, the button head compresses against the hole lip of the can. If the baffle is not super snug inside the can, you can see why possibly the baffle bolt will vibrate out since it isn't threaded on both the baffle and can. The can doesn't need to be threaded… as long as the baffle is. You have to look-up the temp range for the thread-locker being used. Possible the medium strength is not enough. Red is usually permanent, but not really. Depending on how much you use, either it'll come out with extra muscle or sometimes a little heat is needed (torch). I would get a star washer and use that under the head of the screw… and maybe a very small dab of permenant loctite. That should keep it from loosening up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cndnmax Posted May 15, 2016 Share Posted May 15, 2016 That's pretty weird, I had to hammer mine out when I removed it. Even if it lost the screw that thing wasn't going anywhere. It sounds better without the baffle in it anyways, just leave it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Global Moderator sorkyah Posted May 15, 2016 Global Moderator Share Posted May 15, 2016 Did you have the retaining ring installed? Took forever to install, but havent had any issues with loosening over 16k since installing ATGATT... ATTATT, two acronyms I live by. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member phicurious86 Posted May 15, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted May 15, 2016 That's pretty weird, I had to hammer mine out when I removed it. Even if it lost the screw that thing wasn't going anywhere. It sounds better without the baffle in it anyways, just leave it out. Same boat. I had to take a hammer and piece of wood to bang mine out from the other end of the can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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