Is this normal with counter steering? Suspension issues?

[michaelcly]

I've been practicing counter steering lately by weaving on a smooth, wide street...push the left bar, turn left, stay centered on the bike, push right, turn right, stay centered, etc, etc. I travel about 25 to 30ish with consistent throttle. As I get better and more comfortable, I'm seeing the sides of of the back tire wear down . Problem: Lately, I notice in the transition from one direction to the other, the front feels like it gets really light and almost wants to "jump." Is this normal? or am I finding the limits to the suspension? I don't feel in control when that happens.
 
Also, I notice in shifting at high speeds (8k RPM into 5th or 6th), I get a ripple or wobble or whatever you call it. At first I thought it was from trying to force the shift, but even when I quick shift w/out the clutch it still does it. It doesn't last but but it's startling. Is it Normal?
 
Also, i was going around a turn in the road at approx 45mph and saw a parked car sticking out into the street. I pushed on the bar to turn sharper and the bike laid over more as it should but it hardly turned any more. A little, and just enough, but not as it should have.
 
Lastly, I notice a "skip" from the rear tire during in-gear deceleration along with braking. I looked at the rear shock and it's set to the softest setting. I'm pretty sure that's the problem causing the skip.
 
So, am I needing a suspension upgrade? I've been checking into it and am wondering about the Hagon shock, since it's less expensive. 

[so1102]

question 1: check your tire pressure
question 2: no clue
"skip" issue -- are you rev matching on your downshifts? if not the rear will lock up -- it may be you are also laying on the rear brake a little too much -- I rarely touch mine, only for trail braking in turns and low speed stuff in parking lots
 
Yeah suspension upgrades are generally called for if you weigh more than 140-150 lbs, but IDK if the symptoms you present are a result of the suspension so much as your technique.
 
But, what do I know? Good luck and hope you figure it out.

[Beemer]

If you're going from left to right quickly with a rhythm it can't get bouncy, it's normal.
Wobbly where? The rear end?
Are you leaning when you push on the bar or are you keeping your body upright?
Don't use your rear brake right after you down shift. Let the rpm's come down a bit before touching the rear brake.

[motomeek]

It can be pretty difficult to help you without any visuals/video to really see what you're going through.
 
If you think it deals with your suspension, have you gotten your suspension set up for you? This doesn't require getting a whole new set up if you are in the weight class @so1102 mentioned above.
 
 

[phicurious86]

Lastly, I notice a "skip" from the rear tire during in-gear deceleration along with braking. I looked at the rear shock and it's set to the softest setting. I'm pretty sure that's the problem causing the skip.
 

Almost guarantee that you're locking up (in this case "freeing up" the rear). Don't touch the back brake while aggressively down shifting (if you still need to shed speed then just use the front brake). Even if you don't touch the rear brake, you can still free up the rear with aggressive downshifts. Just the kind of bike it is.
 
Forgot to add another thing you can do. "Blip" the throttle on downshifts. It'll help with rev matching and reduce the chance of freeing up the rear.
 

[YZEtc]

All sounds normal, and it sounds like you are learning to ride a motorcycle.
 
The front can and will leave the ground under the conditions you describe, especially when on
the throttle and accelerating.
 
The faster you go, the more real estate you will need to negotiate a corner.
The faster you go, corners that once seemed wide and gentle will seem tighter.
 
The rear tire will become light under braking.
That's why the rear brake caliper and rear brake rotor are smaller and less powerful
than the front ones.

[tony]

It looks like you're just learning to ride. There's no way you're getting to the limits of your suspension. Adjust the rear preload for your weight, if applicable, and you should be good for this season.

[michaelcly]

Thanks for all the good advice.
 
so1102: Tire pressure is correct. I weigh 180lbs. Going to try setting the shock spring closer to the harder side of things. Probably right about the technique.
 
Beemer: I think the wobble is from the rear. Only because it is not a head-shake. Tire seems good though. It has 3,600 miles. I Guess I lean in the turns because i try to stay perpendicular to the bike, not the ground. I'm not weight shifting...yet. It's funny (or not) that I've been riding all my life (a long time), but I'm just recently learning to do it right.
 
motomeek: I wish I had a go pro to show you. I do have an iPhone and duck tape though :-). I'm going to to try adjusting the spring tighter.
 
phicurious86: I do blip the throttle but it's kind of hard to match revs cause it's sooo quick to change engine rpm. The PO put a Yoshimura exhaust and a Bazzaz fuel controller. I don't know how the fueling is set. I'm considering having a pro look at it, but don't know where to go. I'll start with the local dealer. I also get some popping now and then when changing gears or decelerating.
 
Thanks all
 

[scoobyfan]

I do get wobble when I shift aggressively (near max rpm) from 4-5 or 5-6 sometimes, but I don't really care anymore.
 
At first it freaked me out but now I just keep on the Throttle and it goes away, but at higher speeds you do feel.the front end is very light and not too stable.
 
I don't know the top speed of this bike but at 180 it's starting to feel sketchy! It wasn't build for speed lol

[michaelcly]

I do get wobble when I shift aggressively (near max rpm) from 4-5 or 5-6 sometimes, but I don't really care anymore.  
At first it freaked me out but now I just keep on the Throttle and it goes away, but at higher speeds you do feel.the front end is very light and not too stable.
 
I don't know the top speed of this bike but at 180 it's starting to feel sketchy! It wasn't build for speed lol

That's exactly what I'm talking about. I've given all this some thought and decided I don't need to get a $600 shock for the kind of riding I do. I'm going to dial up the spring adjuster on the back and maybe replace the front springs with ones made for my weight. 
 
 

[Guest Ralph]

Before you start chopping it about the bike responds well to the slow in accelerate out type of riding,
 
So if you're coming up to a left hander break down to a slightly lower speed than you would take it
at and move to the right side of your lane changing down as needed, the idea being to straighten the
corner as much as possible and allow you to see further round it, then accelerate round the corner
don't just whack it on but positive acceleration adding power as the corner opens up, this keeps
the bike settled, ride to conditions and don't go into the loose bits at the sides of your lane,
Start slowly, you will speed up as you gain experience, smooth riders are usually the fastest and
safest it's better for the bike as well.
Just to add counter steering works but is largely automatic lean the bike and you can feel the bars
do it if you over do it you will tend to wear the front tyre, What will help you is don't look right in 
front of the bike look up the road, look were you want to go and the bike will follow, if you are looking
at it thats were you will end up so dont look at the fence post half way round the corner or you will
end up wraped round it, look at the bit of road you want to be on likely the apex and then exit, start 
slow and you will soon get it and become a smoother safer rider.
Watch race riders look were there heads are pointing, not were they are going but were they want to be.
 
 

[gregjet]

A furthur note.
If you have done that far, but most upright ( ie commuting or touring with lots of straight lines) you may have worn a flat down the middle of the tyre. As you transition left to right etc you pass over two VERY narrow contact patches at the edge of the wear. This can cause a wobble during transition. You will also feel a sort of "lift/fall" as you lean if you are sensitive enough.
This is made worse by BOTH the front and rear springs on this bike being too soft and the damping inadequate to control the pitching and suspension resonance caused by the load transfers. That translates as a wobble which will be increased by any tyre profile anomalies.
 
You are obviously trying to get in tune with you bike ( a good thing, a VERY good thing), which is why you are noticeing these things.
 
So BOTH ends needs stiffer springs and better damping on this bike ( A LOT!) It is the number one mod you need to make to this bike. If you don't have the knowledge , find a GOOD suspension place nearby and talk to them. LISTEN to them. Best if they have played with this particular model but not necessarily. Try contacting Pattonme on this forum as well. Ask around ( including here on this forum) for recommendations for suspension tuners in your area. They can be good people to get to know. It won't be cheap but for the money spent it will give you a bike that will handle as well as bikes costing WAY more as the geometry is not too bad at all.
Also. don't forget tyres. As important as suspension for handling but also imperative for braking quality.