cable Posted June 2, 2016 Share Posted June 2, 2016 I'm thinking about adding some accessories to the bike. -Additional Emergency flashers for the rear. (18 watts) -A pair of automotive flood lamps for the front. (20 watts) -100W Amp/Speaker for Electronic Air Horn. (100 Watts) Now I don't want to fry my charging system or overtax it, so I'm trying to figure out how much I can fit on there before I start overloading the system. I'm looking at 138 Watts of additional accessories. Current light system: Cyclops LED headlamp (20-40 Watts) LED Turn Signals (Front and rear) (40 watts estimated combined) I've already swapped out all my turn signals and headlamps to LED, which do lower the usage a bit, but I'm wondering what other components are using the power as the bike runs? According to what I've read, the AC Magneto pumps out 410 Watts of power. Now I'm not an electrical engineer, so I need some clarification as to how these accessories will affect the system. I'm using Watts, but I am unsure exactly of what other considerations I need to make. Battery output, charge rate, etc. Of course each and every additional component will be fused, but I want to make sure I have the concept correct before I start purchasing components. Any insight would be greatly appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted June 2, 2016 Share Posted June 2, 2016 I'm thinking as long as you as yer not listening to that horn all the time as you go down the road ( I can go months w/o ever touching a horn button) and have all the extra lights on as well, you'll be OK Would have guessed LED turn signals only draw about 5 watts each. Only 2 will come on at a time of course. Keep in mind, the fuel pump, computer and ignition also consume power. The charge rate of the system output is that 410 watts - assume 14V, that's about 30 amps of current available to run the system and keep the battery charged. Divide your total wattage numbers plus what it takes to operate the bike and lights and divide by 14 to get amp needs. The battery's output 10 ampere-hour (?) is sorta meaningless as long as you are not running a deficit - aka using more juice than the charge system supplies. Of course, you need a bit of a surplus to replace what the starter consumes (the starter sucks a lot of amps). Also, at idle that charge rate will be lower as the max output can only be reached at, say 4k RPM' You can see this with a voltmeter on the battery. Want to know for sure if you are overdoing it? Add a small voltmeter. As long as you see 14V (or a bit more), your battery will stay charged and happy. I have one of these on both of my bikes - I hate flyin blind http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/kuryakyn-led-12-volt-battery-gauge?utm_source=product&kwd=&gclid=CI2_2ruVis0CFYlehgod538G7A Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmwpowere36m3 Posted June 3, 2016 Share Posted June 3, 2016 Also consider all those items aren't ON all the time... so actual usage or duty-cycle is low. You'll be fine if you run the appropriate wire gauge and fuse them correctly. The horn is the only big item... and that gets used maybe a few seconds at a time. The battery is a reservoir/buffer and it'll deliver more current than the stator is capable of. Some bikes don't have batteries and all the loads must be maintained by the stator... and that's a different story. Theoretically, a battery should be able to deliver its CCA rating for ~30 seconds in cold conditions and maintain a certain voltage level. The FZ-07 battery is rated at 190 CCA. However for more "continuous" draws, the amp-hour rating is more appropriate and that is 8.6 aH. Usually the maximum recommended continuous draw is twice the aH rating or 17.2 A. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted June 3, 2016 Share Posted June 3, 2016 Yeah definitely run big fat wiring to that horn. You need to power that thru a fused relay directly from the battery so as not to melt the teeny OE stuff. 14, or even 16g is probably big enough, but go nuts and use 12g for power to the horn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmwpowere36m3 Posted June 3, 2016 Share Posted June 3, 2016 Haha... overkill. A good quality 16 ga will be fine for the horn. I like the tinned-copper stuff from west-marine, not cheap thought (but you won't need much). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Global Moderator sorkyah Posted June 3, 2016 Global Moderator Share Posted June 3, 2016 Screw it... get a couple 00-lugs and a few feet of stranded 00-wire, crimp and go ATGATT... ATTATT, two acronyms I live by. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted June 3, 2016 Share Posted June 3, 2016 Screw it... get a couple 00-lugs and a few feet of stranded 00-wire, crimp and go that bike is getting heavier by the second! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Global Moderator sorkyah Posted June 3, 2016 Global Moderator Share Posted June 3, 2016 Screw it... get a couple 00-lugs and a few feet of stranded 00-wire, crimp and go that bike is getting heavier by the second! soon it will reach harley territory ATGATT... ATTATT, two acronyms I live by. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member wickedtwister Posted June 3, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted June 3, 2016 I would look at the denali led lights and horn. They are expensive but well built they are deigned for motorcycles so they use less power than most automotive accessories. What kind of extra flashers are you putting on the rear? I wrote a how to on some integrated led turn signals. They draw very little power and are freaking bright. If you go crazy you can double the leds no problem and blind people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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