What are members doing for improved braking?

[versysrider]

I'm looking for stronger initial bite, with better feel. I was thinking of starting with EBC HH pads like I have on my FZ-09. Then possibly braided lines. Anyone tried that already? If you have, your opinion would be helpful. Bigger rotors with calipers that have been spaced out would be good, as well as a radial master cylinder for better feel.
I personally don't feel that braided lines with the stock set-up will accomplish anything (on the street only), tried that before on other bikes with no perceivable difference, but I could be wrong.
 I'm surprised there isn't a "brake mods section", as it's an area where there is room for improvement. Lets hear what you've done.

[rick]

After a near miss with a couple of suicidal deer crossing my path a couple summers ago, I put braided lines on my Aprilia and then put HH pads and new EBC rotors as they were near the limit after 13 years. The old rubber hoses were certainly due just by age, even though they looked fine.
 
really didn't feel much difference with the new hoses. But after the HH pads and rotors were bedded in, the bikes had a much stronger feel. The HH compound does come with a downside, they tend to b grabby at walk speeds and they are hard on rotors.
 
Going to bigger rotors, if you can figure out how to do this w/o changing to the fork legs, and find a radial clutch pump that's compatible with the calipers, that can only only add to your stopping power.
 
The pads are relatively cheap and easy to do. I'd start there 1st.

[mjh937]

I switched to braided lines, and while I like how they look and the fact that they have a lifetime guarantee, I did not notice and difference over the two year old stock lines I replaced. I am still using the original pads and rotors.

[versysrider]

After a near miss with a couple of suicidal deer crossing my path a couple summers ago, I put braided lines on my Aprilia and then put HH pads and new EBC rotors as they were near the limit after 13 years. The old rubber hoses were certainly due just by age, even though they looked fine.  
really didn't feel much difference with the new hoses. But after the HH pads and rotors were bedded in, the bikes had a much stronger feel. The HH compound does come with a downside, they tend to b grabby at walk speeds and they are hard on rotors.
 
Going to bigger rotors, if you can figure out how to do this w/o changing to the fork legs, and find a radial clutch pump that's compatible with the calipers, that can only only add to your stopping power.
 
The pads are relatively cheap and easy to do. I'd start there 1st.

I agree. 

[versysrider]

I switched to braided lines, and while I like how they look and the fact that they have a lifetime guarantee, I did not notice and difference over the two year old stock lines I replaced. I am still using the original pads and rotors.

Thanks, that's what I figured. But at least you never have to replace the braided lines. Most people never replace the rubber lines on bikes or cars. In my FZ-09 owners manual (don't have one for the FZ-07) I believe it calls for brake line replacement after just 3 or 4 years. What's really crazy is I've seen shows where they are restoring an old 60's muscle car and don't even mention changing out the old rubber brake lines, even when installing a disc conversion. Talk about an accident waiting to happen.
 

[hordboy]

SBS pads and Spiegler lines make a big difference. Check them out in my store. (www.hordpower.com) That's what I run on my personal bike. The stock master cylinder has a lot of flex in it, so I think swapping that would help a lot too... I just haven't tried it yet.

[ddog]

I feel that steel braided lines don't necessarily add to braking power, but do add to smoothness and predictability. The EBC HH pads definitely bite harder initially if that's the main thing you're after. I'd recommend both.

[botticelli]

I feel that the worse part of the breaking on the from is the master. I swapped the lines with no results. Swapped the pads and got slightly better bite, but as others have said it is "grabby" and still crappy feel to the modulation. Again this isn't an R1 and cost savings on the 07 came everywhere.
 
Personally would be interested in hearing about an alternate master cylinder that is compatible.
 
IMO the new pads are not that much of a difference to do before your stock pads need replacing.
 
Just my .02
~Pete

[Guest Ralph]

Only real limitation I have found is that under realy hard braking as in
tyre squealing just short of locking you can feel the pipes/lines start
to give. EBC pads would give more bite and outright power so you would
likely lock the wheel before the lines start to give but the extra bite
can lead to wheel locking in slippy conditions, but that is just a
matter of re-calibrating your brain/hand.
I will probably go to EBC when the org pads get due for replacement but
I am 99% a road rider if I did track days then thats another story.

[Beemer]

I'm pushing passengers off the bike.   Improves the braking greatly!
 
 
 
 Ha! Kidding of course!
 
A little stronger initial bite for me as well. I have thought about getting some steel braided brake line and maybe, when the pads wear, step up to some better pads made for street. That would be about it for me.

[norcal616]

Improved braking how?? I'm really used to using both front and rear brake majority of the time together...I know some ppl are afraid of using a rear brake or front brake...

[avanti]

Yeah, start with pads and go from there. It may be that most other more "serious" mods may well prove to be more trouble than they would be worth, imho.
 
As for hoses, it doesn't matter how they might "look" since with time significant deterioration tends to be inside where it cannot be seen but can cause SERIOUS harm. Braided-steel is not necessarily impervious to such, depending on what they are made of. Most bike hoses will not expand enough to exhibit a perceptible difference in feel or performance between stock and stainless because the length is so short and most new hoses are typically made of pretty good stuff these days.

[panchobullet]

Updated my loved Dark-Y with EBC EPFA break pads and Spliegler break line and did notice a better response, feel and smoothness. Planning to upgrade to EBC Vee Rotors when possible. I'm pretty sure @bellissimoto can help you out here!
 
- Pancho

[versysrider]

Thanks for all the replies, lots of good info here. Kinda what I figured with the pad compound and line change, I'd like to get a bit more than that. Still thinking about a front end swap too, as then you get fully adjustable suspension and improved braking. Really wish we had some info on a radial mount master cyl. swap, and maybe bigger rotors.
 
 

 
pic hostinghttp://fz07.org/thread/6990/members-doing-improved-braking#
 
I built this 3 winters ago from a wrecked 2012 Ninja 650, with a ZX6R front end, a Penske shock, and many other mods. If it would have had the FZ's engine and light weight I never would have sold it. I took around 30lbs. of weight off it in the process. I sure wish Yamaha would start building "R" models.

[pgeldz]

Updated my loved Dark-Y with EBC EPFA break pads and Spliegler break line and did notice a better response, feel and smoothness. Planning to upgrade to EBC Vee Rotors when possible. I'm pretty sure @bellissimoto can help you out here! 
- Pancho

I agree that the EBC EPFA pads and Spiegler lines are a tremendous upgrade. 
The EBC HH pads are good as well, but the EPFA are a step up, and it's what I've been using on the track for the lat year and a half (same pads).
 

 
- Paulie

[pattonme]

EPFA is only for race duty. For street Vortex had a sale on their pads recently. I personally like DP, Braking and Vesra RJ(L). EBC HH isn't bad, just I like the others better.
 

[pgeldz]

EPFA is only for race duty. For street Vortex had a sale on their pads recently. I personally like DP, Braking and Vesra RJ(L). EBC HH isn't bad, just I like the others better.

I've been using the EBC EPFA for the last year and a half on both street and track without any issues whatsoever. 

 
- Paulie

[pattonme]

yeah but you live in AZ where it's hot all the time.

[pgeldz]

Las Vegas, and I wouldn't consider 56 degrees hot by any stretch, LoL!
 

 
- Paulie

[rhb]

The real way to improve your brakes is ride a bike with Really shitty brakes, then be happy with what the FZ/MT07 has Mine has ABS and the trick is to brake skillfully enough to avoid triggering the ABS, if these brakes are not good enough, then you are probably riding too fast.
If you are talking track performance, it's another animal.

[peteinpa]

I have zero complaints with the brakes. Power,feel, etc. All good.
 
I'd start with a GOOD bleed of the lines, get the air out of that loop over the front fender. Then try EBC HH PADS.
 
Maybe you glazed the pads from new.

[versysrider]

Thanks, many more good replies, and pad choices.
 
@ rhb: Haven't had a bike with really bad brakes, just used to better, some much better. Such as my previous 3 Street Triple R's, and BMW S1000R. The BMW's were just out of this world in power, feel, and initial bite. Initial bite being almost too much depending on what other bikes I had been riding that week, or how long it had been since riding it. The Street Triples were probably my favorite, not being fierce on initial bite, with great power and feel.
 
@ peteinpa: I bought the bike with 1,700 miles on it, and roughed up the pads with emory cloth after a couple rides just to make sure there was no glazing. And they could have been glazed from being used too lightly, as the bike had 2 1/2 inch chicken strips, so probably was a new rider using the brakes gently. Maybe I'd like the feel at the contact patch better if my FZ had the stock PR3's, I've run them before and like them, I have the stock Bridgestone's on still. And I run around 30 psi front and rear on my street bikes for a larger contact patch, and better heating.
 
 

[thomascrown]

I put a lot of miles on the bike, so oem durability was key for me. I slapped some Gen 1 R1 oem pads and spiegler lines, w hi temp brake fluid, and oem Gen 2 R6 hollow caliper bolts to shave a couple grams of unsprung weight. I might eventually do a radial mc, and gen 1 r1 aluminum brake caliper pistons waay down the line. The current setup works really well, well enough that I would not recommend it on a stock fork.
 

[versysrider]

I put a lot of miles on the bike, so oem durability was key for me. I slapped some Gen 1 R1 oem pads and spiegler lines, w hi temp brake fluid, and oem Gen 2 R6 hollow caliper bolts to shave a couple grams of unsprung weight. I might eventually do a radial mc, and gen 1 r1 aluminum brake caliper pistons waay down the line. The current setup works really well, well enough that I would not recommend it on a stock fork.

Nice, thomas. 

[peteinpa]

Now hold on, now you're talking tires, a seperate issue from brake feel.
 
I do have the stock Michelins.