My Naked FZ-07 Track Build

[howlinhoss]

Creating this thread to document my half ass FZ-07R build. I am prepping my bike for next track season and as I bolt on more goodies I will add some photos.
 
I have already got my forks done by @pattonme and I have a ktech shock on the way. The bike will stay naked in stock fairings with my Buell head fairing but I will put also on on a rear seat cowl. 
 
My ECU is also coming out and will be sent to Nels for a flash. 
 
Here is my FZ in its current track form. 
 

 

 

 
 
 
 

[howlinhoss]

Today I installed my AP Moto Rearset Mounting Plates and AP Moto Ride Height link. I must say, this was a huge PITA since it involved removing the swing arm bolt to get the plates on. However, the adjustability is really really nice. 
 
Here are some photos.
 
 

 

 

 

[etorty]

Hi, @howlinhoss,
please, can you add a web link for the MotoSH suspension linkage?
I've searched the web, but I can't found this linkage.
Thank you in advance!

[mossrider]

Hi, @howlinhoss , please, can you add a web link for the MotoSH suspension linkage?
I've searched the web, but I can't found this linkage.
Thank you in advance!

If I may be so bold, it is from AP Moto, (Motoshop) link found all over web, it is the new style billet version.  fz07r.com   
Nice piece.

[howlinhoss]

Correct. The ride height link is from AP Moto.

[blackout]

The billet link is real nice! It looks like you may need a longer upper bolt for the link?

[howlinhoss]

I thought I might need a longer bolt but the OEM bolt and nut work fine for the new ride height link once torqued to spec.

[etorty]

Correct. The ride height link is from AP Moto.

Thank you, and I'm sorry because I've not read this info that you've already written in your 2nd post. How much this link can rise the bike height?
 

[howlinhoss]

Correct. The ride height link is from AP Moto.

Thank you, and I'm sorry because I've not read this info that you've already written in your 2nd post. How much this link can rise the bike height?

I haven't measured the total height increase yet but once I do I will post it here. Mounted with stock shock just fine and also works with aftermarket.
 
AP Moto provided this item description on their website.
 
"The AP MotoArts FZ-07 R Bilet Ride Height Links maintain correct shock rate and velocity while correcting geometry. This more aggressive posture produces true racebike handling. Stock and aftermarket suspension will benefit from this Link."

[etorty]

Thank you!
I have installed, in the 2016's spring, the Bitubo XXF11 (really awesome unit) and this shock, while having the same length of the original (when it's off of the bike), rises up the bike by about 1 cm (near 0,39 inches).
I'm happy with this change, but I've read that if the same change can be done with the linkage, the results (for the bike's handling) are even better.
 

[blackout]

I thought I might need a longer bolt but the OEM bolt and nut work fine for the new ride height link once torqued to spec.

Keep in mind, the locking feature of the OEM nut is on the very end of the nut.  From the looks of the picture, the bolt does not thread past the end of the nut, so keep a good eye on that bolt. 
My fabbed aluminum link was wider as well.  So I had to buy a new longer bolt and nylon lock nut from my local hardware store.  Luckily they had a size that worked, or I would of had to buy a small box from McMaster-Carr. 
 
 

[markstertt]

I thought I might need a longer bolt but the OEM bolt and nut work fine for the new ride height link once torqued to spec.

When the correct hardware is spec'd  for an application such as this or anywhere the bolt would go thru 2 sides of a clevis or mounting brackets, it's better to have the shank of the bolt long enough to reach through both sides completely, followed by a washer to make sure the nut torques up on the parts and not bottoms on the shank first. The threaded section is usually slightly smaller OD and will be a sloppy fit in the clevis or bracket ear, mass production doesn't make it practical for Yamaha (or others) to go to the trouble or expense to do this correctly (IMO). In a similar aircraft structure, the correct length bolt would have shank all the way through the assembly, clevis, etc. and even in some cases be a close tolerance bolt/hole so the assembly doesn't require a lot of torque to ensure no movement in the attachment point which if allowed, can elongate the holes and introduce slop in the system. In a static assembly this wouldn't be as important as in a dynamic assy. such as a shock linkage that is constantly reversing direction and forces. 
Pull the 3 bolts out of the shocks alloy linkage bell crank and you'll find that all 3 have a shank that's to short for my liking, does it matter to anyone else? Maybe not but it's a pet peeve of mine and when I installed an aftermarket shock with a thicker aft clevis, I had to buy a longer 10mm bolt (70mm vs. stock 55mm I think) and then cut off the long threaded section to length to get the shank length I needed. I'll eventually get to the other 2 bolts.
 
I just threw this out to give you something to think about, if you find it interesting or of value that's great, I like to share what little I think I know, will it make any difference to anyone or the bike? Probably not but that's ok. Oh, and thanks for all the pictures, fun to see what you're doing.
 
 
 

[howlinhoss]

@blackout and @markster thanks for the tips on the link and shock bolts. I looked at my bike again and you are right about the bolt being too short. I thought after I torqued it down the length was fine but I was wrong. I will definitely be looking for a longer bolt for the link and once the KTech comes in I will make sure to look at those bolt lengths as well.

[markstertt]

Oh that's good, I was checking on line and found some sites that were selling inexpensive (sort of) titanium bolts that looked good for buying long and then trimming down to get the shank lengths I wanted, may or may not pursue this as I'm making my to do list much longer than necessary.
 
Any reason you haven't removed those two heavy stock muffler mount assemblies? Ounces count right?
 
I'm also waiting to hear how much the Motoshop link raised the bikes rear...Mark

[pattonme]

shoulder bolts - see McMaster or your favorite supplier. I'm replacing the too-short bolt Bitubo supplies with their shock. I agree with @markster, no excuse for supplying a bolt that isn't putting the load on the shank. @pgeldz, maybe beat that drum a little on your next factory sales call?

[etorty]

@pattonme :
I remember that I've changed the bolt of my XXF11.
I'll write soon in your Bitubo thread.

[markstertt]

If you change this bolt for longer shank, be sure and get an equivalent strength bolt which in this case is a grade 8 I believe (as seen on the head of the bolt), my local hardware store had a grade 10.9 in black oxide. I will check ARP racing hardware for their high strength stainless 12 pt. hardware if I don't go for the titanium bits. They make some very nice hardware.

[pgeldz]

shoulder bolts - see McMaster or your favorite supplier. I'm replacing the too-short bolt Bitubo supplies with their shock. I agree with @markster , no excuse for supplying a bolt that isn't putting the load on the shank. @pgeldz , maybe beat that drum a little on your next factory sales call?

Matt, send me pics via PM, and the exact length you used over the stock bolt. 
- Paul

[blackout]

If you change this bolt for longer shank, be sure and get an equivalent strength bolt which in this case is a grade 8 I believe (as seen on the head of the bolt), my local hardware store had a grade 10.9 in black oxide. I will check ARP racing hardware for their high strength stainless 12 pt. hardware if I don't go for the titanium bits. They make some very nice hardware.

Grade 10.9 is what I found at the local hardware store.  Grade 8.8 is the lesser grade in metric, equivelant to grade 5 in non-metric. I would shoot for the 10.9 or greater to be safe, but 8.8 is probably o.k..  The main thing is to stay away from cheap grade 2 bolts that can be found at hardware stores, but that is usually only available in non-metric.  Gets stupid confusing, lol.

[howlinhoss]

Just a small update. Bike is still on the rear stand. Stock shock will get replaced soon once my KTech comes in with the right spring. At the same time I will install my new longer ride height link bolt.
 
Some coming additions will be a DNA Filter, flashed ECU back from 2WDW, Gilles rear axle nut and seat cowl.
 
Stay tuned for photos.
 

[howlinhoss]

ECU is back from 2WDW and installed on the bike. Can't wait to test it out.
 
Got my DNA filter installed as well. Very easy to install on this bike.
 

 
I did do something stupid though. When I removed the stock filter I put the lower filter mounting bolt back in its place. While screwing it down I slightly penetrated through the air box. I will need to fill the tiny hole.

[sorkyah]

ECU is back from 2WDW and installed on the bike. Can't wait to test it out.  
Got my DNA filter installed as well. Very easy to install on this bike.
 

 
I did do something stupid though. When I removed the stock filter I put the lower filter mounting bolt back in its place. While screwing it down I slightly penetrated through the air box. I will need to fill the tiny hole.

black pvc/abs plumbing cement ive found works very well for repairong small bits of our plastics
It is excellent for the stock rad guard, tail covers and air scoops
Put my crash parts back together with it for track use when i get it ready

[gogokawi]

Looks good. I'll try not to fondle your bike too much at the track.
 
Any reason why you went with the linkage as opposed to lengthening the shock?

[howlinhoss]

Looks good. I'll try not to fondle your bike too much at the track. 
Any reason why you went with the linkage as opposed to lengthening the shock?

No particular reason except that I purchased the link at the end of the summer to use with the stock shock. Just recently purchased the KTech.

[blackout]

Looks good. I'll try not to fondle your bike too much at the track. 
Any reason why you went with the linkage as opposed to lengthening the shock?

Not sure about other shocks, but the Nitron is limited in length adjustment.  The way I see it, the shorter linkage gets the suspension into the ballpark and then the shock can be used for fine tuning.  Also, a shorter link will improve geometry, where as a longer shock just pushes the bell crank farther down on it's arc in order to raise the ride height.  While I have not measured the affect, it can't be all that good and eventually there will be cleavis clearance issues from using a longer shock.  Those are my observations anyways.