mcbrien Posted April 13, 2017 Share Posted April 13, 2017 I have a 2017 with a little over 600 miles. Cold bike , start it up , shifting from neutral to first transmissionslams into first. Only does it once. Its so bad I now shift into 1st, pull in clutch then start bike to avoid slammingtransmission. Bike jumps forward a little when I do this. Just switched to yamalube semi at my 600 mile oil change.This is the worst case of this I've ever experienced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member snowdriftless Posted April 13, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted April 13, 2017 Happens to everyone bike, Try shifting from N to second then to first. Other threads have already discussed this topic. P1: Vice? I have no vice, I'm as pure as the driven snow! P2: Yeah but you've been drifting All the gear all the time! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Eastern Kayaker Posted April 13, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted April 13, 2017 If you are located in a cold area, do you let the bike warm up some before shifting into first. How far do you have to pull the clutch in to disengage? Maybe the clutch lever needs to be adjusted a little since it may not be fully disengaged. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcbrien Posted April 13, 2017 Author Share Posted April 13, 2017 I live in Hanover Pa. I normally let bike warm until I get a temp reading. Clutch engagement is at end of lever travel.Almost all the way out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markstertt Posted April 13, 2017 Share Posted April 13, 2017 Try adjusting clutch lever free play per manual and see if that helps, also with clutch pulled in blip the throttle a couple times and let it return to idle before shifting into first...this sometimes helps. Mine can be a little clunky into first at times and other times not...I'm not sure why but have always been suspicious of a draggy clutch. I had occasion to pull the clutch cover off yesterday so I pulled the clutch plates out to have a look and at 9000+ miles it all looked like new, no notching of the basket, plates were surprisingly dry however, this surprised me a bit. The original owner of my bike did longish oil changes with yamalube so I thought I'd try a little experiment, I installed all new friction and plain plates after soaking them in Amsoils Metric 10-40wt. I have some other mods going on but when I get it off the lift and on the road I'll let you know what I think, not hoping for a miracle but what the heck...the well abused demo bike I rode before I bought mine had a great tranny, just snicked into gear and was one of the reasons I was drawn to the -07 aside from the great torquey little engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossco Posted April 13, 2017 Share Posted April 13, 2017 It's normal happens to mine Ben after a full 10 mins warmup Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Mr.Puss Posted April 13, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted April 13, 2017 Yeah this is me too, makes me cringe every time. Ive tried adjustments to no avail. Crush your enemies. See them driven before you. Hear the lamentations of their women. Fuss Life. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aaron Posted April 14, 2017 Share Posted April 14, 2017 Normal, no worries. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ducttapewd40 Posted April 14, 2017 Share Posted April 14, 2017 This is just a characteristic of a multi plate wet clutch. It's normal and can't be adjusted out. Trying will just end up with an improperly adjusted cable. When you pull the clutch lever in you are not mechanically separating the clutch plates, only relieving pressure from the pressure plate. The primary transmission shaft does not provide enough resistance to break the friction between the steel and friction plates even with no pressure applied, so it is still turning with the motor. When you shift into gear the primary transmission shaft suddenly stops spinning when it is engaged to the secondary shaft. The bang you feel is the break of friction between between the two sets of plates as the steels come to an abrupt stop and the frictions continue spinning with the motor. I tried to find an expert article that would do a better job of describing this and came up with nothing, but didn't want anyone throwing their adjustments out of whack in vain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ralph Posted April 14, 2017 Share Posted April 14, 2017 Make sure your clutch and chain are adjusted right. Before putting it in gear and this only works with a cold engine pull in clutch keep it there, give the engine a little sharp rev then keeping the clutch in put it in gear. It's to do with the gearbox being high up in the engine, with older setups the gears were lower and ran in oil this broke the clutch friction and cushioned the gears with the newer bikes this docent happen and they can be a bit more clunky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duenan Posted April 14, 2017 Share Posted April 14, 2017 Make sure your clutch and chain are adjusted right. Before putting it in gear and this only works with a cold engine pull in clutch keep it there, give the engine a little sharp rev then keeping the clutch in put it in gear. It's to do with the gearbox being high up in the engine, with older setups the gears were lower and ran in oil this broke the clutch friction and cushioned the gears with the newer bikes this docent happen and they can be a bit more clunky. @ralph, what happened to your original account? Engaging with people that have personality disorders on a message board is like arguing with a rock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ralph Posted April 14, 2017 Share Posted April 14, 2017 Closed it as did not have a lot of time to spend on line then things quieten'd down so made a new account. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted April 14, 2017 Share Posted April 14, 2017 giving the throttle a little blip with the clutch pulled works well to quell that initial shift to 1st. Just let the motor return to idle 1st. Other than that, it's normal for this and every bike that has a wet clutch. Best way to cure it is to find an old R BMW (like in my avatar or maybe a Guzzi with an automotive style clutch. Other than that, just expect it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcbrien Posted April 14, 2017 Author Share Posted April 14, 2017 I'll try blipping the throttle a little.Thanks for your input. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duenan Posted April 14, 2017 Share Posted April 14, 2017 It might be associated with an engine size? I say that because the R3 never does it. Ever. But my two other bikes do it. If it isn't engine size, why does the R3 never do it? I'm sure the others on here with an R3 can confirm this. Engaging with people that have personality disorders on a message board is like arguing with a rock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted April 14, 2017 Share Posted April 14, 2017 It might be associated with an engine size? I say that because the R3 never does it. Ever. But my two other bikes do it. If it isn't engine size, why does the R3 never do it? I'm sure the others on here with an R3 can confirm this. Probably starts more with clutch size and design. The fewer plates and the smaller the diameter of the clutch will result in less plate adhesion to break free. Of course, both of those will likely happen with a smaller motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcbrien Posted April 15, 2017 Author Share Posted April 15, 2017 My Super Tenere doesn't bang like this one does . With first start of the day put your bike in 1st gear,pull in the clutch and start bike. Does it lunge forward a few inches ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemer Posted April 15, 2017 Share Posted April 15, 2017 Sounds normal to me. Every Yamaha I've owned or ridden has had that characteristic. My friends SR500 did it. From my experience Honda's do it less and not as hard but they still do it. It should taper off to doing it once in a blue moon. Mine did it a lot when new but hasn't done it in over a year now. It does shift right and run good, doesn't it? If not, then have it checked out. Beemer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteinpa Posted April 15, 2017 Share Posted April 15, 2017 It's very related to the oil. What oil was put in at the first maint.? Got new red 2015 FZ-07 on 7/22/16! Black 2006 Honda ST1300 53K miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted April 15, 2017 Share Posted April 15, 2017 My Aprilia clunks into gear from neutral - even after it's hot. Doesn't seem to matter, it's about the same all he time. It's just the nature of the beast. 8 or 9 steel plates surrounded by as many friction plates with surface tension from oil between them all trying to hold them all together. Some clutches will deal with it better than others. Like Beemer said, if it shifts nicely, forget about it. If not, have it looked at. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
versysrider Posted May 7, 2017 Share Posted May 7, 2017 I find that pulling the clutch in with the bike in neutral, holding the clutch in then hitting the starter firing the bike up, then engaging 1st gear works much smoother. '16 Yamaha FZ-07, '15 Yamaha FZ-09 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ralph Posted May 7, 2017 Share Posted May 7, 2017 It does work but puts more load on the starting system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted May 7, 2017 Share Posted May 7, 2017 That's how I've been starting bikes for decades - in neutral with clutch pulled. My car will not even start w/o the clutch pedal depressed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Global Moderator Guru Posted May 7, 2017 Global Moderator Share Posted May 7, 2017 The bang in first gear is typical and normal. I noticed that you can reduce the banging by adjusting your chain to the correct spec. A loose chain seems to amplify the noise/shudder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
methotic Posted May 10, 2017 Share Posted May 10, 2017 Mine shifts into 1st gear fine while cold. It starts clunking when the bike is warmed up. Was going to start a new thread until I came across this one. Is this normal? Also my clutch engages when the clutch is nearly fully out. I never rode a bike that had the clutch engage so far out before! Mine only has 5k miles too. And yes, the cable is adjusted per factory spec with a couple mills of free play Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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