Throttle cable lubrication

[noodles]

I know the clutch cable can be lubricated easily because it's open on both ends. The throttle cables are crimped at the tube end and open at the throttle body end. Is there any was to lubricate them other than removing the cables entirely, inverting them so the open section is above the crimped section, and pour lube in until it's full, then draining it out and refilling with fresh clean lube? Is there any way to do it while they're still mounted on the machine? I trid once but I don't think any lube got past the crimp. Or am I missing something??
 
Thanks for any suggestions!!

[norcal616]

https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0182-Cable-Luber/dp/B0012TYX9W... a dirt bikers best friend...I use a few squirts of WD-40, it will slowly work its way down the cable... On a bad dirty, wet day of dirt biking I may use a can of air used to clean keyboards out to push the dirt and old grim out...

[noodles]

https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0182-Cable-Luber/dp/B0012TYX9W... a dirt bikers best friend...

Yeah, I ordered one already to make lubing the clutch easier, but that doesn't defeat the crimp around the throttle tube side of the cable from what I can't tell.

[ralph]

I put a drop or two of oil on the exposed bits of the cables at the throttle body pulley
now and then but would only oil the twist grip end if I was taking it off for some reason,
with the clutch I turn the slot in the adjuster up and fill it with oil pull the clutch
a time or two and leave over night, though I always turn the slot so it points down n back
so rain does not get forced in on the move, last time I fitted new cables to anything
of my own was 20 odd years ago and those cables are still on and working like new.
If it was a dirt bike then things would be different but it isn't.
 

[DewMan]

I've always just rubberbanded a plastic baggie to the high end of the cable with a bit of oil/lube of choice in the baggie and hang it up for a while until it starts dripping into the other baggie rubberbanded to the lower end. once I see lube coming out the bottom I'd work the cable a bit to make sure it's working smoothly.
 
I then wipe the excess after removing the baggies. Then reconnect the ends. Normally no need to unmounts the cable from the bike other than the ends.

[noodles]

I've always just rubberbanded a plastic baggie to the high end of the cable with a bit of oil/lube of choice in the baggie and hang it up for a while until it starts dripping into the other baggie rubberbanded to the lower end. once I see lube coming out the bottom I'd work the cable a bit to make sure it's working smoothly.  
I then wipe the excess after removing the baggies. Then reconnect the ends. Normally no need to unmounts the cable from the bike other than the ends.

So you're saying if lube is left with no escape but the crimped end it WILL actually find its way into the cable sheath? I'm just looking to get oil in the sheath as painlessly as possible.

[DewMan]

I've always just rubberbanded a plastic baggie to the high end of the cable with a bit of oil/lube of choice in the baggie and hang it up for a while until it starts dripping into the other baggie rubberbanded to the lower end. once I see lube coming out the bottom I'd work the cable a bit to make sure it's working smoothly.  
I then wipe the excess after removing the baggies. Then reconnect the ends. Normally no need to unmounts the cable from the bike other than the ends.As l

As long as the cable is designed to slide within it's sheath, there is room to get lubricant into it. A slow drip as I suggested can many times work better than trying to force a can of propelled lubricant through a straw to get the lubricant down inside the length of the cable. 

[noodles]

As long as the cable is designed to slide within it's sheath, there is room to get lubricant into it. A slow drip as I suggested can many times work better than trying to force a can of propelled lubricant through a straw to get the lubricant down inside the length of the cable.

The cable with the adjuster nut and rubber boot was much easier to lubricate, but I got both. You are right, lube does seep past the crimp - just very slowly. The bike feels like an entirely different machine now! Throttle response is so sudden now with lubrication and adjustment of the cables. I tried lubing it before but based on the difference I feel I know it wasn't done 100%. And, for reference, the cable lube tool was only useful for the clutch cable - and even then only marginally so. Wouldn't fit for throttle cables, so I just used my silicone spray and a rag around the top. Worked just fine.
 
Thanks for your responses!

[DewMan]

@noodles Glad you got it lubed.

[gregjet]

A few things.
First WD40, DWF etc are NOT lubricants. They are anticorrosion fluids. They are poor lubricants and actually collect dirt. They can increase wear. They are available with teflon added and these will help lubricate if used like people have been using the plain ones.
a light oil is better. Don't use chain lube as some of them get quite stiff once they dry out a bit.
MANY modern cables are teflon sheathed and ocassionally the cable also has a teflon coating ( can be very hard to see). These should not be lubed with anything, unless you can get drying teflon lube ( quite dear but you don't use much). Quite waterproof and doesn't attract dirt. Silicon spray MAY work though no information.

[noodles]

A few things. First WD40, DWF etc are NOT lubricants. They are anticorrosion fluids. They are poor lubricants and actually collect dirt. They can increase wear. They are available with teflon added and these will help lubricate if used like people have been using the plain ones.
a light oil is better. Don't use chain lube as some of them get quite stiff once they dry out a bit.
MANY modern cables are teflon sheathed and ocassionally the cable also has a teflon coating ( can be very hard to see). These should not be lubed with anything, unless you can get drying teflon lube ( quite dear but you don't use much). Quite waterproof and doesn't attract dirt. Silicon spray MAY work though no information.

The FZ07 doesn't have Teflon sheaths, or so I read. And yes, WD40 is close to napthalene or kerosene - a great solvent but not a great lubricant. I used silicone because it won't do anything to the rubber and it's silky smooth. I use it under the throttle tube, too. In any case the manual recommends "cable lube" in one and silicone in the other, so I just used silicone in both.

[gregjet]

What he said.
I see wd40etc recommended for cables so often. I am becomeing a fan of silicone spray but becareful anywhere near electrical stuff as it can form an insulating monolayer.