Parasitic Drain??

[rwynne24]

So lately my bike has been dying randomly, whether it be over night or over a few hours. 
 
Tonight I had the time to take it apart and look through everything. I used a multi-meter set to amps and disconnected the positive lead and had one lead from the meter stuck to the terminal and one lead stuck to the positive lead (for the bike). I was getting a reading of anywhere between 0.2-0.3 amps which from what I read means there is a drain on the bike. After pulling each fuse, I realized that the [HASH]5 fuse (Back-up/Clock) fuse is the one causing the issue (I think). As soon as I pulled this one, the amps went down to a solid 0. When I plugged it back in the amps rose again, so I'm basically thinking this is the issue. When I put everything back together the battery is now dead again and needs to be jumped. The starter still clicks and buzzes. Now, does anyone know what I do from here? Im lost at what to do, how would the clock fuse be causing a parasitic draw? 
 
If anyone can help, I really appreciate it. 

[ddog]

Did you try actually replacing the fuse or did you just remove and reinstall the old one?

[rwynne24]

I replaced the original. Should I go buy some and try a new one?

[ralph]

Theres a position on the switch were the ignition is off but
things like the indicators are live or there is on my Euro
mod one are you sure you are not leaving it in this position
instead of the normal off.

[rwynne24]

So yesterday I was putting a new LED license plate on my bike and I blew a fuse. After this I replaced the fuse and rode the bike and stopped 2 times. Then two hours later I went to get on it and it was dead. So I jumped it and rode and then when I got to where I was going and stopped again, it was dead. This is when I looked and thought I found the drain. So this morning I jumped it and while the cables were on I connected my multi-meter to it, it was reading 0. So I went and got gas with a friend following me and she jumped me again. Went on a 15 mile ride got home turned it off and then tried to start it and it was dead again. So does this mean that my battery is completely done? I don't think it's my charging system because it stayed on the entire ride. I've been dealing with this problem forever and last season I bought a new battery and now this ones done I'm guessing. Does anyone have any idea what could be happening?? I'm taking the battery to the shop today to have it tested by them. I'm hoping it's just a battery and not something more serious because I'm out of warranty. I appreciate the response guys!

[ralph]

With engine running you should have 14.2 volts on the battery if so it's charging
if less than about 13.8 it's likely there is a problem with the charging system,
does the new led work? they don't like being connected the wrong way round.

[rick]

The clock draws some current all the time - otherwise your clock would have to be reset every time you rode the bike. 200mA seems a bit high - I would have guessed more like 50-100mA, though I don't know what would be normal for this system.
 
Fuses do not draw current. Think of them as just a short bit of wire that rate limits how much current can pass thru.
 
If your battery is dead, you'll have no current for your meter to read.
 
How good is your multimeter? Is it reading that draw accurately? Do you have a lower scale?
 
Sounds to me like you need a new battery - especially if your starter solenoid is "buzzing"
 
there are 2 things that kill batteries - 1) heat - something that's hard to avoid tucked inside the frame of a bike - usually right behind the motor. 2) letting them get discharged by just sitting with a slow parasitic draw from the ecu, clock and whatever else - immobilizers are notorious for this.
 
I am a firm believer in float chargers - all 3 of my vehicles live on them 24/7 when not in use. The OE battery in my car survived 8.5 years like this. My motorcycle batteries easily go 5 years.

[rick]

Have you checked your charge voltage at 4K RPM?
 
found this on another forum
 
Jo, I deal with battery drains every week on the job.
For minor drains I use an incandescent 12V testlamp--a voltmeter will show the 12V in an active circuit but can't show the amp/milliamp draw. After the testlamp I use a digital Voltohmeter inline with the curcuit, and beyond that it's my inductive ammeters and hand-held automotive labscopes.
Many of today's vehicles have a normal parasitic draw, termed "Dark Current". The usual allowance is 25-35 milliamps. This dark current maintains the Keep Alive Memory in such circuits as clocks, audio systems, anti-theft alarms, powertrain control units, etc. And many of these draws are controlled by timers in the units themselves.
For example there might be a 220milliamp draw shown when disconnecting the battery in my '05 Mazda Tribute--but 20 minutes later it will go down to 75ma, 15 minutes later it will drop to 20-25ma. So some of these draws can fool you if you are unaware of of the actual dark current inspection procedure.
Here's something for you all: Let's say your bike has a 14 amp/hour battery(like my ZRX and CB750).
14 Ah= 14 amps for 1 hour. Or...7 amps for 2 hours. Or 3.5 amps for 4 hours. The battery will provide those amps for that length of time theoretically before going dead. They dont always go dead at a linear rate below a certain voltage level).
Doing the math...a 100 Ma draw. 14 Amps=14000 Ma. 14000 divided by 100=140 hours. 140 hours divided by 24= 5.8+ days. A 100 Ma draw will drain the battery in almost 6 days.
A 20Ma draw will have the same result in almost 30 days.
Now here's one-- a shorted diode in the alternator. Current flowing backwards through the alternator to ground. Not only do you have a drain on the battery at rest, while charging the alternator can't replenish what's coming out of the battery while running. A long trip with the headlight on, injection and ignition systems operating, brake lamps on at times, audio, heated clothing and...and..the engine shuts off and youre dead where you sit.
2Fat says the draw rythmically fluctuates--points to an electronic timer in a component.
WE SHALL SEE!!!!
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[Mr.Puss]

The clock draws some current all the time - otherwise your clock would have to be reset every time you rode the bike. 200mA seems a bit high - I would have guessed more like 50-100mA, though I don't know what would be normal for this system.  
Fuses do not draw current. Think of them as just a short bit of wire that rate limits how much current can pass thru.
 
If your battery is dead, you'll have no current for your meter to read.
 
How good is your multimeter? Is it reading that draw accurately? Do you have a lower scale?
 
Sounds to me like you need a new battery - especially if your starter solenoid is "buzzing"
 
there are 2 things that kill batteries - 1) heat - something that's hard to avoid tucked inside the frame of a bike - usually right behind the motor. 2) letting them get discharged by just sitting with a slow parasitic draw from the ecu, clock and whatever else - immobilizers are notorious for this.
 
I am a firm believer in float chargers - all 3 of my vehicles live on them 24/7 when not in use. The OE battery in my car survived 8.5 years like this. My motorcycle batteries easily go 5 years.

+1 here. I have our bikes plugged into a "battery-tender" float charger 24/7. My alarm killed my battery in less than two weeks when I forgot to plug in.  

[noodles]

 
+1 here. I have our bikes plugged into a "battery-tender" float charger 24/7. My alarm killed my battery in less than two weeks when I forgot to plug in.

Really? I just installed an alarm but I ride it nearly every day. It lives in an apartment complex parking lot so it can't be easily charged. Think it'll for in two weeks even with regular use? The alarm has been installed less than a week with no noticeable effects so far.

[rick]

 
+1 here. I have our bikes plugged into a "battery-tender" float charger 24/7. My alarm killed my battery in less than two weeks when I forgot to plug in.

Really? I just installed an alarm but I ride it nearly every day. It lives in an apartment complex parking lot so it can't be easily charged. Think it'll for in two weeks even with regular use? The alarm has been installed less than a week with no noticeable effects so far.

If you ride every day (more than just around the block) it will not be a problem. That's what the bike's charging system is for.  
Pretty much all cars have some form of security/antitheft systems these days. But car batteries are huge by comparison, so they have much more capacity - just by their physical size. The same thing will happen if a car sits and sits - it'll just take longer. 
 
 
 

[Mr.Puss]

 
+1 here. I have our bikes plugged into a "battery-tender" float charger 24/7. My alarm killed my battery in less than two weeks when I forgot to plug in.

Really? I just installed an alarm but I ride it nearly every day. It lives in an apartment complex parking lot so it can't be easily charged. Think it'll for in two weeks even with regular use? The alarm has been installed less than a week with no noticeable effects so far.

 I have a different alarm system and I dont get to ride every day, its generally a "weekender" for me. Im far from an expert on batteries and their subsequent "wear and tear" from various draws but I'd assume its perfectly fine if you ride it every day. .... ah right...what rick said. =)
 

[avanti]

What else might you have done (by accident?) when making mods??? Something is clearly wrong! My bike ('15) sets for weeks sometimes and fires right up every time. Sometimes I remember the Battery Tender but most times not. BUT, no electrical mods, at all. All the best.