Rear brake switch driving me nutz

[r1limited]

I always do a visual before tossing me leg over the bikes. Brakes, Blinkers, chain, tire etc etc. On inspecting the brake lights front is fine on off rear is driving me crazy and it is not sticking (Just getting that out there)
 
What happens, hit the rear brake LED on, then stays on. I have to adjust the switch bu unscrewing it then it goes out and works. Brake on brake off all ok, 8 hours later or so check again, brake on, wont go off, again I have to adjust the position n the switch to get the brake off.
 
My thought it the switch is not defective but the plastic threads/nut that is the adjuster is actually not holding the adjustment and turning do to vibration. I cannot prove this, but that is my theory. I will to test that remove the unit, add some teflon tape to the threads as this may tighten the grip of the plastic nut. One may argue defective, but I am hard pressed to believe that. the bike is brand new less than 2500 miles.
 

[ralph]

Put a mark on the nut and switch so you can see if it as moved, but rely
you should just take it back and get them to fix it under warranty.

[i28]

we've had many threads because of the rear brake switch.
for example:
 
https://fz07.org/thread/3594/brake-light-switch-sticking
 
Some people have had success with dry graphite lube.
I tried the graphite lube and it didn't work for me and the light would still keep sticking. I ended up loosening it so that the rear brake wouldn't activate the light at all (just barely). I left it like that for a while and a few months went by and I decided to give it another try. As soon as I adjusted it, it ended up working flawlessly on its own. I'm wondering if it was due to the spring.
 

[ralph]

Probably just a cheap'o switch sticking and freeing off as it gets older.

[jbone]

I've been having issues with mine for the past month or so too. Mine wasn't working at all, so I got it adjusted and thought I was all good. I've quickly learned that it's just a finicky, piss-poor made switch. Before every ride I have to adjust it and whisper sweet-nothings to it to make sure it works for my ride. My bike is still under warranty, but I know if I take it in , the dealer will just keep adjusting it rather than replace it.

[r1limited]

I've been having issues with mine for the past month or so too. Mine wasn't working at all, so I got it adjusted and thought I was all good. I've quickly learned that it's just a finicky, piss-poor made switch. Before every ride I have to adjust it and whisper sweet-nothings to it to make sure it works for my ride. My bike is still under warranty, but I know if I take it in , the dealer will just keep adjusting it rather than replace it.

I am with you there on the piss poor design.  Looking for a aftermarket replacment.  I have my suspision its a weakass spring need to take it off and take it down to a DiY and find an alternate. 

[peteinpa]

I'm in the "it needs lubed" camp. Mine still works great, even with a couple brake pedal height and switch adjustments.

[vroomvroom]

I've been having issues with mine for the past month or so too. Mine wasn't working at all, so I got it adjusted and thought I was all good. I've quickly learned that it's just a finicky, piss-poor made switch. Before every ride I have to adjust it and whisper sweet-nothings to it to make sure it works for my ride. My bike is still under warranty, but I know if I take it in , the dealer will just keep adjusting it rather than replace it.

I am with you there on the piss poor design.  Looking for a aftermarket replacment.  I have my suspision its a weakass spring need to take it off and take it down to a DiY and find an alternate.

 
 
Did you end up solving this? Same issue is causing me daily grief.

[r1limited]

I am with you there on the piss poor design.  Looking for a aftermarket replacment.  I have my suspision its a weakass spring need to take it off and take it down to a DiY and find an alternate.

Did you end up solving this? Same issue is causing me daily grief.

Somewhat yes, There is this odd break point, if I adjust past the point the light stays on if I adjust down I have to really push down on the peddle then it is acting normal.  I have pulled it completely apart and think I know why, the standard spring IMO is to weak and to long.  I will be looking for another one to replace it and test. 
Essentially what I had to do was adjust to the point of break and back off a tad.  Since the engine braking is better than the rear breaks I use the front which is instant On.  As soon as I get the right spring I will post up the setup  Should be this week......
 

[vroomvroom]

Im doing the same thing. Not a fan that my rear braking doesn't work the actuator. Im thinking the same thing... crappy spring.
 
Question: have you ever been caught in the rain on the fz?
 
I think my troubles began after the first time it happened to me.

[r1limited]

Im doing the same thing. Not a fan that my rear braking doesn't work the actuator. Im thinking the same thing... crappy spring. 
Question: have you ever been caught in the rain on the fz?
 
I think my troubles began after the first time it happened to me.

Nope, not exactly rain but some road wet.  My Sons was doing the same exact thing, a few clicks to the adjustmetn and wammo wirking.  Have a question back.  Do you have the stock tail light?  I am running a MD LED blinker brake combo, I did not notice if this was occuring with stock. 
I am thinking to just cut the stock and bend it.  Quick Diagram shows my thoughts.  Will of course need to adjust the actuator down some, but I think it will lesson the length and possibly via adjustments will correct the week spring.  To dang hot to be in the garage anyway and I just got back from ripping the canyons.
 

 
 

[vroomvroom]

Im doing the same thing. Not a fan that my rear braking doesn't work the actuator. Im thinking the same thing... crappy spring. 
Question: have you ever been caught in the rain on the fz?
 
I think my troubles began after the first time it happened to me.

Nope, not exactly rain but some road wet.  My Sons was doing the same exact thing, a few clicks to the adjustmetn and wammo wirking.  Have a question back.  Do you have the stock tail light?  I am running a MD LED blinker brake combo, I did not notice if this was occuring with stock. 
I am thinking to just cut the stock and bend it.  Quick Diagram shows my thoughts.  Will of course need to adjust the actuator down some, but I think it will lesson the length and possibly via adjustments will correct the week spring.  To dang hot to be in the garage anyway and I just got back from ripping the canyons.
 

 

 
 
No, actually i also am running the motodynamic integrated taillight...

[r1limited]

Hummmmm So is my Son... I would hate to reverse it all just to see if it is the MD. I did have to install the resistors as well

[vroomvroom]

Hummmmm So is my Son... I would hate to reverse it all just to see if it is the MD. I did have to install the resistors as well

 
 
I Did not install resistors as i am running stock blinkers

[jbone]

I highly doubt it's your MD tail light. After some deeper digging, I found that the little actuator that the spring connects to gets stuck. If you reach in there and manually pull on the actuator, you can feel it break loose for the lack of a better term. After that, it works fine until it sits until my next ride. I've ridden on wet roads a few times and I think those switches are a dirt / debris sponge.
 
.... and for what it's worth, I'm running a TST integrated tail light w/o resistors.
 

[vroomvroom]

I highly doubt it's your MD tail light. After some deeper digging, I found that the little actuator that the spring connects to gets stuck. If you reach in there and manually pull on the actuator, you can feel it break loose for the lack of a better term. After that, it works fine until it sits until my next ride. I've ridden on wet roads a few times and I think those switches are a dirt / debris sponge. 
.... and for what it's worth, I'm running a TST integrated tail light w/o resistors.

 
 
I have noticed this as well.

[r1limited]

I highly doubt it's your MD tail light. After some deeper digging, I found that the little actuator that the spring connects to gets stuck. If you reach in there and manually pull on the actuator, you can feel it break loose for the lack of a better term. After that, it works fine until it sits until my next ride. I've ridden on wet roads a few times and I think those switches are a dirt / debris sponge. 
.... and for what it's worth, I'm running a TST integrated tail light w/o resistors.

Agree, I have been looking at this as close as possible, I will need to remove the rear tire to get a up close and personal look at the entire setup.  I suspect it is a poor design switch or week internal spring.  I also suspect that the way it sits in its holder and the angle for which the spring is to the brake lever is part of the issue as well.  I will find aq fix or make it myself 

[tech199]

I just bought a 2015 with 18,000 miles that has the rear brake switch issue. So it's not a break in issue. I'll just keep using my front lever too until someone smarter figures out a real solution.

[rick]

 I'll just keep using my front lever too 

I should hope so. There's a reason why there are 2 big rotors w/4 piston calipers on the front wheel of pretty much every motorcycle. Unless I'm in panic mode and need all the stopping power I can find, I almost never touch the back brake. 
When this switch thing 1st came up a while ago, I had a look at mine and it appeared that the seal around the post that activates the switch was tight and causing the mechanism to be slow. I gave mine a small spritz of silicone spray and it's been fine since. 
 
You wanted a fix - there it is. But please learn to use the front brake before you go skidding into a deer or something harder. 

[jareds89]

[strong]I've fixed it!!![/strong] I should have taken photos but I didn't think about it until after.
 
Now, you do not need any aftermarket parts or fancy tools. Just a couple of Hex screwdrivers and patience.
 
There are two springs behind the foot plate/rear brake pedal, the black spring controls the pedal itself and the silver smaller spring controls the light. The silver spring is a bit too long/loose like mentioned before. Upon taking the whole foot pedal section apart, including the foot guard and pedal assembly... I noticed that the brake light switch holds the spring in place by a THREADED PLASTIC MECHANISM!! Viola, turn the plastic spring holder guy to TIGHTEN the spring tension. Reinstall everything and you're golden. Now the only downside to this is that you have no way of testing your adjustments. You have to make a change and then put it all back together to see how the light reacts. I had to disassemble the whole things twice because the first time around I made too much of an adjustment and the light wouldn't activate at all. This is where you need patience. Trial and error until you get it just right.
 
I have now adjusted the spring tension and adjusted the pedal height to where the light illuminates with the slightest touch of the pedal and turns off the moment it returns to normal resting position. I believe this is the end of the light sticking issues for me.

[rick]

I don't know exactly how this pedal can be adjusted - but know that if you move the pedal down in such a way that the piston is closed - not enough to activate the brake, but closed enough that the return flow of fluid into the reservoir is blocked, when you use the back brake, the fluid will get warm and expand. If the fluid has no where to go when it expands, the back brake will self apply and the bike will come to a screeching halt until the fluid can cool.
 
So if you've adjusted the pedal downward in a way that the piston is also been applied some, well, just be careful. With constant contact brake pads, you might not even have to touch the pedal before this happens. And because the reservoir is separate from the master cylinder, you can't even look in to see if the piston is back far enough to allow fluid to move freely.

[jareds89]

Rick, There is an adjustment rod right behind the foot guard which is designed to be adjusted to the rider's foot position for comfort/proper brake application. My rear brake pedal still has a rather generous "dead zone" for the reasons you just mentioned, but it has been adjusted slightly to fit my foot/ankle position more appropriately.
 
The other adjustments that I've made only relate to the spring that operates the light.

[vroomvroom]

[strong]I've fixed it!!![/strong] I should have taken photos but I didn't think about it until after.  
Now, you do not need any aftermarket parts or fancy tools. Just a couple of Hex screwdrivers and patience.
 
There are two springs behind the foot plate/rear brake pedal, the black spring controls the pedal itself and the silver smaller spring controls the light. The silver spring is a bit too long/loose like mentioned before. Upon taking the whole foot pedal section apart, including the foot guard and pedal assembly... I noticed that the brake light switch holds the spring in place by a THREADED PLASTIC MECHANISM!! Viola, turn the plastic spring holder guy to TIGHTEN the spring tension. Reinstall everything and you're golden. Now the only downside to this is that you have no way of testing your adjustments. You have to make a change and then put it all back together to see how the light reacts. I had to disassemble the whole things twice because the first time around I made too much of an adjustment and the light wouldn't activate at all. This is where you need patience. Trial and error until you get it just right.
 
I have now adjusted the spring tension and adjusted the pedal height to where the light illuminates with the slightest touch of the pedal and turns off the moment it returns to normal resting position. I believe this is the end of the light sticking issues for me.

 
 
Sadly, in time the vibration of the bike may loosen that plastic nut...however, this is the correct way to resolve this issue.
 
I keep an eye on mine...ive had to retighten it several times back into desired spec...it has stayed in place the last few rides.

[rick]

Rick, There is an adjustment rod right behind the foot guard which is designed to be adjusted to the rider's foot position for comfort/proper brake application. My rear brake pedal still has a rather generous "dead zone" for the reasons you just mentioned, but it has been adjusted slightly to fit my foot/ankle position more appropriately.  
The other adjustments that I've made only relate to the spring that operates the light.

Cool. Just wanted to point that out and couldn't remember what that assembly looked like. I have seen people "adjust" rear brake pedals by adjusting the return-stop bolt and then quickly wind up with toasted, overheated calipers - and then there's the issue of the bike just grinding to a halt on its own. Never fun.  
Simple thing those brake switches. Sure has caused a lot of fuss.
 
 
 

[r1limited]

[strong]I've fixed it!!![/strong] I should have taken photos but I didn't think about it until after.  
Now, you do not need any aftermarket parts or fancy tools. Just a couple of Hex screwdrivers and patience.
 
There are two springs behind the foot plate/rear brake pedal, the black spring controls the pedal itself and the silver smaller spring controls the light. The silver spring is a bit too long/loose like mentioned before. Upon taking the whole foot pedal section apart, including the foot guard and pedal assembly... I noticed that the brake light switch holds the spring in place by a THREADED PLASTIC MECHANISM!! Viola, turn the plastic spring holder guy to TIGHTEN the spring tension. Reinstall everything and you're golden. Now the only downside to this is that you have no way of testing your adjustments. You have to make a change and then put it all back together to see how the light reacts. I had to disassemble the whole things twice because the first time around I made too much of an adjustment and the light wouldn't activate at all. This is where you need patience. Trial and error until you get it just right.
 
I have now adjusted the spring tension and adjusted the pedal height to where the light illuminates with the slightest touch of the pedal and turns off the moment it returns to normal resting position. I believe this is the end of the light sticking issues for me.

Been there done that.  You did hot what I feel is the issue, a under achieving Spring whihc is too long not enough strenght.  I have yet to pull the thing apart "again" as deadlines are coming and I have one more bike to finish and get out the door.  But you are correct to validate that the spring is far to soft and too long