jareds89 Posted July 11, 2017 Share Posted July 11, 2017 Been there done that. You did hot what I feel is the issue, a under achieving Spring whihc is too long not enough strenght. I have yet to pull the thing apart "again" as deadlines are coming and I have one more bike to finish and get out the door. But you are correct to validate that the spring is far to soft and too long If you had "been there done that" why didn't you mention it the first time around? Lol. Everyone is looking for a solution. Although it does not fix the engineering/manufacturing issues with the spring and switch setup, it's definitely a way to solve it. Next time I pull it apart I'll slap some glue on the threads to keep it from loosening up through vibration like mentioned above. I understand your frustration with Yamaha but until they redesign the switch operation, there's not much else you can do other than changing/modifying the spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1limited Posted July 11, 2017 Author Share Posted July 11, 2017 Been there done that. You did hot what I feel is the issue, a under achieving Spring whihc is too long not enough strenght. I have yet to pull the thing apart "again" as deadlines are coming and I have one more bike to finish and get out the door. But you are correct to validate that the spring is far to soft and too long If you had "been there done that" why didn't you mention it the first time around? Lol. Everyone is looking for a solution. Although it does not fix the engineering/manufacturing issues with the spring and switch setup, it's definitely a way to solve it. Next time I pull it apart I'll slap some glue on the threads to keep it from loosening up through vibration like mentioned above. I understand your frustration with Yamaha but until they redesign the switch operation, there's not much else you can do other than changing/modifying the spring. I did, read through all my posts, Good write up though. “Laws that forbid the carrying of arms disarm only those who are neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes.” --Thomas Jefferson quoting Cesare Beccaria Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markstertt Posted July 11, 2017 Share Posted July 11, 2017 You don't need to take anything apart to adjust that switch, similar to most Japanese bikes I think, just reach your two index fingers around the assy and spin the nut, it spins easier in the ccw direction. To tighten up the spring and actuate the switch sooner just stick a 90* scribe in front of the nut and pull it around clockwise, sometimes wiggling the assy from behind with your left hand index finger makes this easier. The switch is meant to float so to speak so you may not want to glue the nut down but if you're worried about vibes how about a dab of torque witness paint or small dab of silicone seal. To make sure I knew what I was talking about I checked the maintenance manual, it's as I wrote above and I just backed mine off and then tightened back to a point I was happy with acuataion...2-3 minutes tops unless you have humongous fingers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
level41 Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 My rear brake light switch is also sticking. It goes out after a few seconds, but sometimes it just doesn't come on. So I've learned to break with the front brake, so at least the light goes on. The rear brake is only supplemental braking. I don't depend on the rear brake to make me stop, but the front is switching my brake light on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markstertt Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 Another option of course, is to install a pressure switch instead of your stock banjo bolt, I have one sitting here but it's for a street tracker...supposed to work and not expensive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firstyammerha Posted August 16, 2017 Share Posted August 16, 2017 I was adjusting my rear brake switch a couple of weeks ago and when the switch is rotated with the two wires connected to it, the wires twist and act like a spring, rotating the switch back some. I unplugged the two wires and rotated the switch. Reconnecting the two wires and pushing down on the pedal until the light actuated when I wanted it. It took a few tries to get it and the pedal height set the way I like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markstertt Posted August 17, 2017 Share Posted August 17, 2017 I was adjusting my rear brake switch a couple of weeks ago and when the switch is rotated with the two wires connected to it, the wires twist and act like a spring, rotating the switch back some. I unplugged the two wires and rotated the switch. Reconnecting the two wires and pushing down on the pedal until the light actuated when I wanted it. It took a few tries to get it and the pedal height set the way I like. The switch itself does not require turning to adjust, it's not threaded into the bracket but floats, turning the nut alone raises or lowers the switch...just hold the switch from turning and spin the nut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firstyammerha Posted August 25, 2017 Share Posted August 25, 2017 pretty sure I watched the switch rotate because of the two wires and their protective sleeve untwisting after spinning the switch. Disconnecting the two wires kept them and their sleeve from being turned and torqued with the switch. Worked for me anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markstertt Posted August 25, 2017 Share Posted August 25, 2017 Ok but if you hold the switch and spin the nut the switch will itself move up or down adjusting it's point of actuation...per the manual, not just me. I even went out and adjusted mine for you the first time I responded just to be sure...good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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