yamahazaki Posted October 15, 2017 Share Posted October 15, 2017 31ft lb? I ask because this is the 4th time I have changed the oil, been torquing it to 31ft lb as usual (with a new bolt gasket every time). After a ride I notice the first time in 3 years oil spots under the fz07. I feel around and there is oil under the drain bolt. I figure since I am using an aftermarket mag bolt, I should drain the oil and put the oem bolt back on, but it turns out the oil pan is cracked. I'm just curious if any of you guys use less torque, like 15ft lb on it because now I have to freaking buy a new oil pan and pan gasket for 75-85 something dollars and was thinking of not torquing (the drain bolt) to spec from now on. Who knows, it could have been just one of those things... but still, alot of people were always suspicious of the high torque value on that bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmacas87 Posted October 15, 2017 Share Posted October 15, 2017 I know a lot of guys including me just snug up the bolt. Then give it a touch extra oomph, like an 1/8 turn or so more. Some call it hand tight then a bit more.... Been doing this forever on all of my vehicles. Never lost a bolt or cracked a pan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1limited Posted October 15, 2017 Share Posted October 15, 2017 I use torque spec as well as Teflon tape + new crush washer each time. “Laws that forbid the carrying of arms disarm only those who are neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes.” --Thomas Jefferson quoting Cesare Beccaria Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
detectivedan Posted October 15, 2017 Share Posted October 15, 2017 i feel that the torque spec for the drain bolt is a little excessive. i usually just german torque it (gootentight) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member blackout Posted October 15, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted October 15, 2017 I torque by feel and always use a new Yamaha crush washer. I wish they made a torque wrench with a shorter handle, then you could better feel what you were doing at the same time. Years ago I broke a head stud because the torque wrench was faulty. Craig Mapstone Upstate New York Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c0al67 Posted October 16, 2017 Share Posted October 16, 2017 I just tighten it till its snug then give it another 1/8th or so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Mr.Puss Posted October 16, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted October 16, 2017 IMO the factory torque is far too hard-core. The initial factory torque on mine was absolutely ridiculous, I gave it all I had and when it finally let loose I was sure I cracked the damn pan too, luckily it wasnt. Its not the bloody space shuttle, although the factory spec oil bolt and its home would be the ONLY pieces of this bike left assembled after the rest of the bike completely disintegrated during reentry. I do the same as what @ c0al67 does, hand snug + a 1/8 or so snug up with the ratchet. I've done it this way on every vehicle Ive ever owned and never had any issues. Crush your enemies. See them driven before you. Hear the lamentations of their women. Fuss Life. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markstertt Posted October 16, 2017 Share Posted October 16, 2017 Same here, snug it by feel but not close to 31 ft. lbs., but mine is also safety wired. Never leaked and not always had a new washer either. Factory spec seems excessive here and in some other locations. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member norcal616 Posted October 16, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted October 16, 2017 I dont... gotta remember any type of fluid on the bolt or washer will actually take more force needed to reach the torque spec compared to a dry bolt and washer... 2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition...2015 fj-09- 120whp- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich Race Kit- tuned by 2WDW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted October 16, 2017 Share Posted October 16, 2017 I'm also using a magnetic drain plug (think it came out of an old BMW gearbox) with crush washers bought from fleebay - no leaks. Drain plugs with crush washers are one of the few places I'll just do by feel. Crush the washer until the wrench stops - done. I've also been know to reuse crush washers as I don't go gorilla on 'em. Radiator drain plugs with crush washers, I'll supplement with a thin layer of anaerobic sealant and just reuse the washer. 31 ft-lbs sure sounds like a lot for a drain plug. Are you guys sure it's 31 ft-lbs and not 31 Newton-meters which converts to 22-ish ft-lbs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemer Posted October 16, 2017 Share Posted October 16, 2017 I've always just tightened it until it came to a stop and then that extra 1/8 or so extra turn to secure it. Never had one come loose or drip oil. I'm thinking now there's one assembler (a sadist) at Yamaha that applies the 31 ft.- lbs. onto every screw he can get his hands on just to make us miserable trying to get them off. Beemer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Global Moderator mjh937 Posted October 21, 2017 Global Moderator Share Posted October 21, 2017 The manual says 43Nm. That seems like too much and a lot more torque then I am using. I use the snug and about a 1/8 turn method. So far it has worked well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michigan400 Posted October 21, 2017 Share Posted October 21, 2017 I just clean it up good and make sure it's nice and snug. It's a good size fastener so you would really have to put the beans to it to damage the threads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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