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FZ-07 Acts Like Battery is Dead, Runs Rough


drewpy302

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So, I tried to ride my bike the other day only to have the screen come up for a second and then dim completely and the bike wouldn't start. I thought it may just be a dead battery, so I bought a battery charger and let it charge until the charger claimed the battery was charged. Still nothing. Then I rolled it off twice. Both times it was sputtering, the gauge was going crazy saying I was doing 60 mph while sitting still, and it quit running shortly after I got it to start both times. Any ideas? 

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I think your battery is damaged even though your charger said its charged.
If you discharge a lead acid battery too much it can get damaged.
It not means that its completely dead but it can get weak and can't give you enough current to start the bike.



 

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Check it with a multimeter. Fully charged lead acids should read around 13v and they should have a resting charge of 12v or higher. If you are down in the 11v and 10v range then something isn't right with the battery.

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These AGM batteries really should have 12.6 -12.8 volts at rest.

 

A worn out battery can take a charge to the proper voltage, but as soon as you put a load on it, there's no capacity and the voltage will drop dramatically.

 

Best way to know is to have it load tested. Sounds like it's gonna fail. 

 

Trying to start any motor with a weak battery is hard on the starter solenoids. Best to resolve this before something else fails.

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^^ That Right there

 

boom.jpg

 

Was going to add one of the most over looked aspect is fitting a correct battery .  Link to some good info

https://www.bikebandit.com/blog/post/lithium-motorcycle-battery-buyers-guide

“Laws that forbid the carrying of arms disarm only those who are neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes.” --Thomas Jefferson quoting Cesare Beccaria

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Just a reminder, you cannot push start a fuel injected motorcycle if the battery is dead.  It needs fuel pressure from the fuel pump for it to run properly.  I am actually surprised it even started at all.  

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I have bump started me R1a few times, its fool injunction?

“Laws that forbid the carrying of arms disarm only those who are neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes.” --Thomas Jefferson quoting Cesare Beccaria

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23 hours ago, r1limited said:

I have bump started me R1a few times, its fool injunction?

You must have had just enough battery left to pressurise the fuel system.  If the battery is completely dead it will not start. 

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8 minutes ago, mjh937 said:

You must have had just enough battery left to pressurise the fuel system.  If the battery is completely dead it will not start. 

Of course if the battery is dead, dead, dead you are correct if you do not hear the ol PSsffft Errrgg Shshshshsh Poing (My inturp of the fuel pump loading) then yup you screwed :)

“Laws that forbid the carrying of arms disarm only those who are neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes.” --Thomas Jefferson quoting Cesare Beccaria

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On 11/9/2017 at 10:18 AM, rick said:

These AGM batteries really should have 12.6 -12.8 volts at rest.

 

A worn out battery can take a charge to the proper voltage, but as soon as you put a load on it, there's no capacity and the voltage will drop dramatically.

 

Best way to know is to have it load tested. Sounds like it's gonna fail. 

 

Trying to start any motor with a weak battery is hard on the starter solenoids. Best to resolve this before something else fails.

I think the factory battery is a regular sealed maintenance free lead acid not AGM. It says PB on the side on mine, that's lead acid. I've had AGM's and they usually state AGM on the side and the charging method is different. Unless the newer FZ's come with AGM's I don't know.

 

You are correct. A load test will tell the tale.

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 My service manual says it should be a YTZ10S and that will make it an AGM battery - whether it says so on the battery or not. When I posted, considering it lays dead on its side, I just assumed it was an AGM. I doubt you'll ever see a std. maintenance free battery (either factory filled or one you have to fill yourself) laying on its side like the FZ's

 

 AGMs are still lead (it'll weigh nearly 10 lbs.) acid batteries. The acid is Absorbed in a fiberGlass Mat (hence the name) so the acid can't slosh around. That makes them pretty much leak proof and why it can be laid flat.

 

 

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5 hours ago, rick said:

 My service manual says it should be a YTZ10S and that will make it an AGM battery - whether it says so on the battery or not. When I posted, considering it lays dead on its side, I just assumed it was an AGM. I doubt you'll ever see a std. maintenance free battery (either factory filled or one you have to fill yourself) laying on its side like the FZ's

 

 AGMs are still lead (it'll weigh nearly 10 lbs.) acid batteries. The acid is Absorbed in a fiberGlass Mat (hence the name) so the acid can't slosh around. That makes them pretty much leak proof and why it can be laid flat.

 

 

I've had AGM's before and they all stated AGM on the side but they were aftermarket batteries not OEM. I looked on Yuasa's site and it is in fact an AGM, it's just odd that it doesn't say that it is an AGM on the battery itself. It's a good thing I haven't thrown it on my charger in regular lead acid mode. A friend of mine owns an automotive battery business and sells everything from atv motorcycle up to diesel rig batteries. I bought an AGM for my 400EX a few years back and he said not to charge it like a regular lead acid but to use the Gel cell/AGM mode on the charger if it had it. Come to think of it that may have been what fried my stock 400EX battery years ago when it went dead. It was a Yuasa also and I flooded the quad and drained the battery trying to start it so I just charged it (probably on regular mode). The thing didn't last a week after that. Learn something new everyday. Hopefully that's not what the OP did (charge it on regular lead acid mode).

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  • 2 weeks later...

I had a battery issue recently.  I brought it in to O'Reilly Auto Parts to have it tested.  It was a good battery and I bought a charger and got it back up and running.  I think their test equipment is pretty advanced compared to the cheapo testers available to us at reasonable prices.  Take it to an auto part store and have it analyzed.

 

I did buy one of the cheap ones just to test the alternator.  I've had a bad alternator take down a battery before.  But I'm getting 14 volts across with the bike running, so all good there.

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On 11/6/2017 at 11:29 AM, drewpy302 said:

So, I tried to ride my bike the other day only to have the screen come up for a second and then dim completely and the bike wouldn't start. I thought it may just be a dead battery, so I bought a battery charger and let it charge until the charger claimed the battery was charged. Still nothing. Then I rolled it off twice. Both times it was sputtering, the gauge was going crazy saying I was doing 60 mph while sitting still, and it quit running shortly after I got it to start both times. Any ideas? 

i would check the voltage at the battery, as others have stated it should be between 12-12.6v at rest. 
after that i would check the connector on the back of your cluster. 
ensure that's plugged in all the way and then go through and check all the sensor connectors around the bike. starting with perhaps speed and air temp. 

air temp is behind the brake side "airscoop" speed sensor is behind and above the front sprocket. 

ATGATT... ATTATT, two acronyms I live by.
 

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