FZ-07 Torque Specs

[Clenz]

It looks like the thread that originally had this listed was lost here are the torque specs from the maintenance manual. 

 

Google Sheets FZ-07 Torque Specs

 

[Cruizin]

Thanks ! I pinned this 

[phanomenal07]

On 8/23/2018 at 8:12 AM, Clenz said:

It looks like the thread that originally had this listed was lost here are the torque specs from the maintenance manual. 

 

Google Sheets FZ-07 Torque Specs

 

This helped me so much today. Thank you

[tomlichu]

What are your thoughts with these torque specs? Some of these values seem high. I recently just learned about reducing torque specs when using anti-seize or oil. Anyone have other general tips?

 

For instance:

Oil drain plug: 32 ft-lbs. I damaged my crush washer getting it this tight.

Rear axle lock nut: 76 ft-lbs. My lock-nut was seized, and I had to grind it off. Also need to replace my rear axle now due to damaged threads and the broken right bracket. 76 ft-lbs This feels too high as well. I saw on the other thread about using lower values and it seems to be okay in the 60s ft-lb.

I am working on the forks this weekend. I have read on here about how annoying it is to get the damper-rod out. Is 22 ft-lb with loctite overkill?

 

 

Edited March 22, 2023 by tomlichu

[M. Hausknecht]

Oil drain plug torque figure is insane. Steel into aluminum? I just snug it up by feel rather than use a torque wrench but torque probably doesn't exceed 20 ft-lbs.

Rear axle nut torque is also unnecessarily high, in my opinion. I've found 60 ft-lbs to be more than enough to keep the axle in place, even with slicks and 90+ RWHP.

[shinyribs]

I'm convinced Yamaha is rating torque specs strictly by looking up the physical dimension of the fastener itself and comparing it to whatever chart they found on Google, with no regard to the actual job of the fastener. Oil drain bolt is a perfect example IMO. 

I saw them wanting 180ft lbs on top yoke nut for a WR450. Tiny little fine threads on an aluminum stem! What? Similar nonsense on axle. 

Zero faith in their number. Park the torque wrench and just snug em up. Beyond critical engine internals ( rod caps and head bolts) it doesn't really even matter. 

[Pongo]

This is excellent information to have at a glance... Thank you.

[sweetscience]

Regarding the engine oil drain bolt, Yamaha's figure is for dry oil free threads at the bolt and belly pan hole.  This is the assembly procedure at the factory.  So technically Yamaha is correct in this regard.  

However, as a user, when we change the oil, and re-tighten the drain bolt, there will always be oil residue on the threads at the drain hole of the belly pan.  Difficult to clean and remove all oil from these threads. 

To prevent stripping, a reduction in torque of 35-45% is needed.  So, a 45% reduction in torque will give you a torque spec of 23.65 N•m (17.4 lb•ft).

PS,  Aftermarket aluminium magnetic drain bolts may be enticing, they do have a tendency to shear.  If you must have a magnetic drain bolt,  I use a "Gold Plug" stainless steel magnetic drain bolt.