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How to: FZ-07 MT-07 Valve check and adjustment


noodles

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1 hour ago, noodles said:

I really took my time doing this and tried to document it as best I could. I hope this helps someone. If you've read this far, you should know that I'm not an expert so I apologize if I got something wrong above - hence the disclaimer at the start.

But I did follow the manual to the letter, and my machine did indeed start up and runs just fine after the procedure. I will say that I actually screwed up and turned the crankshaft before I put the chain tensioner on (like an idiot!), so I had to retime the engine using the alignment marks without the aid of my witness marks. But my motor didn't blow up in the end!

Im making you a free premium member for doing this, thank you so very much! Great job! 

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  • 2 weeks later...
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Thanks for putting together a very well documented and explained very important piece of information. It seems like you put a lot of work into it @noodles for whatever reason! I don't think it's getting enough recognition, as other's and  myself included have been looking for someone to do this for quite some time.  Thanks for the fantastic addition to the Tech-Tips section.

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Very good work! Thank you for taking the time to write up the procedure!

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1 hour ago, fzar said:

Thanks for putting together a very well documented and explained very important piece of information. It seems like you put a lot of work into it @noodles for whatever reason! I don't think it's getting enough recognition, as other's and  myself included have been looking for someone to do this for quite some time.  Thanks for the fantastic addition to the Tech-Tips section.

Thanks! I pulled so much from this and other sites to learn automotive maintenance, so when I saw a way I could give back what I'd taken I thought it was a good thing to do. Besides, I like being thorough to prevent mistakes, and documenting it all made me think through each step. 

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his face seems pulled and tense
like he's riding on a motorbike in the strongest winds

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9 hours ago, elmo said:

Awesome job documenting your process, you earned  more than a few beers, Thanks

This was a 2 day , 5 beer job for me

I should've written up replacing the front brake piston seals, that was a 6 beer job 🙄

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his face seems pulled and tense
like he's riding on a motorbike in the strongest winds

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8 hours ago, noodles said:

This was a 2 day , 5 beer job for me

I should've written up replacing the front brake piston seals, that was a 6 beer job 🙄

Issues popping out the pistons?

DewMan
 
Just shut up and ride.

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10 hours ago, noodles said:

This was a 2 day , 5 beer job for me

I should've written up replacing the front brake piston seals, that was a 6 beer job 🙄

Your going to have to now, seeming as you put it out there, dangling the carrot of information. @noodles

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1 hour ago, DewMan said:

Issues popping out the pistons?

I had to figure out what I was doing as I did it. It wasn't so much "how do I get the pistons out?" as much as it was "how do I get them out without smashing them into one another?"

I ended up using a custom-cut credit card to fit over one side, secured it with zip ties, then put a wood block over the credit card so when the pistons popped, they'd hit soft wood. Figuring that out was easier after 4 beers, I always feel more 'creative' 😉 and then of course I needed 2 more while peeling out the seals with care

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his face seems pulled and tense
like he's riding on a motorbike in the strongest winds

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  • 1 month later...

Forgive me if I’m seeing this wrong but your pictures seem to show cams in position to start the intake stroke for #1 cylinder. Are you timing to set  #1 at TDC on compression stroke?

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On 10/2/2019 at 3:10 PM, SteveR said:

Forgive me if I’m seeing this wrong but your pictures seem to show cams in position to start the intake stroke for #1 cylinder. Are you timing to set  #1 at TDC on compression stroke?

The timing marks for this engine set piston #1 at TDC on the compression stroke. If the camshafts are removed, the timing mark on the flywheel combined with checking to be sure piston #1 is at TDC should be enough to ensure that #2 is correctly positioned too when reinstalling the camshafts with their timing marks aligned. However, all of this is irrelevant if you did not move the crankshaft once you removed the camshafts.

image.png.03ed5dd99e64cdded3b904095e8b9025.png

When the timing marks on the camshaft sprockets are aligned with the head's edge, the flywheel's timing mark is aligned with the mark on the crankshaft cover, and piston #1 is at TDC on compression stroke, the exhaust and intake camshaft lobes are facing each other as drawn below. I don't remember what angles cylinder #2's lobes were at, to be honest. Once the engine is turned CCW 270 degrees, #2's cam lobes should also be exerting no pressure on the valves as #2 will be at TDC. If I made an error in the photos showing that position I apologize, but this is the process as I remember it:

image.thumb.png.4f04b0a44e9ff3b10923b3f66f7eea09.png

his face seems pulled and tense
like he's riding on a motorbike in the strongest winds

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  • 2 months later...

Excellent write up and pics, I know this took you a lot of time to do. This is the best of what forums/the internet are all about, sharing info and helping others along the way.

Great job!

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'16 Yamaha FZ-07, '15 Yamaha FZ-09

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  • 8 months later...

Total wizardry!!!! 

I'm hands on, but you my friend are master mechanic.

All I can say is thank you for taking your time and sharing. 

 giphy.gif

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  • 3 months later...

Outstanding, this has given me the confidence to dive in and replace my leaking head gasket, a little more work but still have to remove the cams so this process is gold, thank you.

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  • 1 year later...

Question which I think was answered above: to ensure the engine doesn’t go out of time when removing and replacing the cams you have to ensure the crank shaft is still at the TDC marker and the markers in cam 1 and 2 are level with the cylinder head (as shown with the horizontal markers)? 
 

This is the only part that worries me. Once the cam chain tensioner is removed I assume you’d have to screw it up real bad to have the chain slip off the lowest section and fudge the timing. But if you kept one of the cams in you should be golden... 

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On 2/25/2022 at 7:28 AM, Civiltechyyc said:

Question which I think was answered above: to ensure the engine doesn’t go out of time when removing and replacing the cams you have to ensure the crank shaft is still at the TDC marker and the markers in cam 1 and 2 are level with the cylinder head (as shown with the horizontal markers)? 
 

This is the only part that worries me. Once the cam chain tensioner is removed I assume you’d have to screw it up real bad to have the chain slip off the lowest section and fudge the timing. But if you kept one of the cams in you should be golden... 

You can't really leave one cam in and replace the shims one at a time. You'd typically have to remove both, and even if you didn't, once you remove one cam you may as well remove the other. I marked the chain rivet and corresponding tooth valley with a white paint pen so it wouldn't matter if there was a slip. So long as it's reassembled with the two paint marks touching where they were before disassembly, there's no problem. You don't need a cam sprocket to hold tension on the chain. Pull it up and off and zip tie it up and away whole you work and it's easy. 

If you're referring to having the cam chain come off the crank, yes, that'd be a huge problem, so ensure the chain is tied off above the crankcase edge to tension it on the crankshaft sprocket. If the chain falls into the crank case or somehow comes off the crankshaft sprocket, I'm not sure how you'd fix that without I suppose removing the oil pan, visualizing the cam chain engaged with the sprocket again, fish out the chain, put it back on, and get the alignment makers lined up again. 

his face seems pulled and tense
like he's riding on a motorbike in the strongest winds

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6 hours ago, noodles said:

You can't really leave one cam in and replace the shims one at a time. You'd typically have to remove both, and even if you didn't, once you remove one cam you may as well remove the other. I marked the chain rivet and corresponding tooth valley with a white paint pen so it wouldn't matter if there was a slip. So long as it's reassembled with the two paint marks touching where they were before disassembly, there's no problem. You don't need a cam sprocket to hold tension on the chain. Pull it up and off and zip tie it up and away whole you work and it's easy. 

If you're referring to having the cam chain come off the crank, yes, that'd be a huge problem, so ensure the chain is tied off above the crankcase edge to tension it on the crankshaft sprocket. If the chain falls into the crank case or somehow comes off the crankshaft sprocket, I'm not sure how you'd fix that without I suppose removing the oil pan, visualizing the cam chain engaged with the sprocket again, fish out the chain, put it back on, and get the alignment makers lined up again. 

No need to worry about the chain falling all the way down as there’s a bolt in the cylinder head that stops that happening, the chain will hang on that and is easily fished back out. If you look at the cylinder head parts list diagram it’s number 10.

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M. Hausknecht

In the event you're not sure if the cam chain shifted teeth on the crank gear which drives it, you can pull the clutch side cover and reorient the chain on the gear. Yes, its a PITA to drain the coolant and detach the coolant pipes and cover, but it beats being off by a tooth. I invariably only set my valve clearances with the engine on a work bench with both covers off (also usually timing the cams), but I understand most will check and adjust their clearances with the motor in the frame.  

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  • 5 months later...
Tracer700Rider

Hi,

I would add a point - or maybe even three - check, double check and then check one more time that the flimsy gasket between the head and valve cover is properly seated. 

I tried sticking it to the cover using grease but this didn't hold so well. So once the cover was on it required a bit of adjustment to make sure it is on correctly. Take your time as having to strip everything and redo it when you discover an oil leak is a real pain - voice of experience speaking here. Next time I do this I will definitely go for a new gasket and the sealing compound yamaha recommends. 

I would also mention that access to rear left bolt on the cover is very tight. My ratchet wrench would not fit. It would probably be good to have a cut allen key to turn this screw. It is a 5mm. Taking a normal key and cutting the long bit so it is like the short bit will probably do the trick.

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  • 1 year later...

Sorry to dig up this old post, but I got about halfway through and got pretty confused on one detail - 

Where you note - "2. piston #1 (clutch side)"

I think you are referring to Piston #2.  Given this diagram from the MT07 manual, and a similar one from the T7 manual I was originally following, Piston #1 is actually on the flywheel side, and Piston #2 is on the clutch side.....right? 

image.png.1d20449c21ca1368e90cb3632ee3e628.png

I caught this because I followed OP's guide while using a hex key to follow the pistons, and the clutch side piston was not at TDC when the flywheel mark and cams lined up. Either my T7 (same CP2 engine afaik) is supremely screwed up or the piston #'s are backwards in the post...or I'm just that tired

edit: Oh, I see it correctly designated in later posts.  The clutch is on the right side while sitting on the bike....correct?  

Edited by yeetus
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