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How To: Install Factory Pro Shift Kit with Clutch Removal


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This guide will demostrate how to install a Factory Pro Shift Kit on FZ-07/MT-07 2015-2019. This guide will also act if you would like to remove the clutch basket(including plates) since removal of these is necessary to install the Factory Pro Shift Kit. 

My Reasoning for the installation: Had a bike in the past that this was a necessary upgrade(Yamaha YZF600R) to save the transmission. I'm hoping to save any future trouble from the same occurrence. Also, this detent arm is better than stock since it's on a bearing instead of metal on metal as something that rotates constantly(Pictures Below).

Id say, overall, shifting was improved by 20% but as many reactions, it's still less improvement than anticipated. 

If you're looking for the next project on your MT/FZ, this could be it!

Tools You Need:

Factory Pro Detent Arm + Spring

10MM socket with something that can ratchet.

5MM Allen(I used the one under the seat)

30MM to remove Clutch Boss Nut with nice leverage.

Needle Nose Pliers(for clips)

Thin/Smaller Philips head to put things in place


I put all my items in a little red bucket or my workbench, for the bigger stuff.

Other Tools:

Gasket(I used the original one, maybe older bikes need it to be replaced my bike is a 2018 with 7k miles.

Torque Speced socket wrench( i didn't use it, but its a really good idea)

Breaker bar(I didn't use it)

A magnetic tool, incase you drop something in the oil pan(I didn't have one I chanced it)

Zip ties, if you'd like to put ur stuff out of the way to it doesn't scratch things(I didn't do this)

Used this image to guide through the process for things that could possibility go into the oil pan for each step.




1. Put the bike on its kickstand AND IN 6TH GEAR( IMPORTANT)(maybe a lower gear would work but that's what I did for maximum leverage on the boss nut) You can drain the oil if you'd like to put the bike upright while working. But not necessary for installation of Factory Pro Shift kit and/or Clutch Removal if on the kickstand. I removed my oil.

2. Remove This Piece in the picture below, just the outside bolts i think there were 9. No need to remove that other pipe that attaches to it. I just dangled the entire cover off to the side while working once removed. you can zip tie if you'd like.. Take note of the position of your Clutch Cable, take a picture if you can because it will help you out when you put it all back together. Use a 5MM Allen. There is a small tab that holds in the clutch cable, just fiddle the cable out.IMG-1699-3.jpg.beeca1b489c71a195335c750f6ecf3b3.jpg

3. This is what it looks like once removed, Just dangled the other pieces can use zip ties somehow if you want.. I just wedged the clutch cable on another part of the bike to get it out of the way. You can see your STOCK Detent arm in the top left far back, its on top of your shifting star. CAREFULLY remove the Gasket, I had to use my philips head for some sections VERY LIGHTLY.


4. Use your 10 MM Socket to remove the 6 bolts. There is a Torque Spec you can see in the first image, if you don't have a torque wrench when putting it back together.. I just tightened it to see what I was working with, I noticed it was tight enough when the entire basket moved a bit when you did that.. some of the 6 I could move a bit do that for some I couldn't. Don't worry about that middle piece of the plate, its suppose to be loose. Notice what i marked in red, please make this red mark, not sure if that was needed but possibility to line the plate up again so things fit right. I tried to line every bolt up back in its original spot. Try to keep everything together, stand the bolts upright when u take them out. 


5.Next step once you take the plate off and remove the 30 MM nut. Again, hopefully your bike is in 6th gear, i think you'll have to put the clutch back together to change gears. To Remove this nut, sit on your bike put your right foot on the rear break, or if you got a friend helping, you can grab the front break in addition. Make sure you're loosening the bolt and your 3o MM socket is completely on, you might need a breaker bar or something with ALOT of leverage or a friend. There are washers behind this 30MM bolt so just make sure you grab them tight when pulling them out(including everything else). After you get this nut off make sure the PLATES stay in the same order, Notice how that outer plate is in a different tooth than the rest, you'll need to know this when pulling it back together. Try to keep the plates where they were when removing. 


6. Now that we removed the plates and the inner basket we have to wiggle the outer basket out, there are a few things that are needed. Check the picture if needed but there is a chain behind this basket, it becomes super lose once you wiggle everything out. Note the orientation of the stuff.


7. Here is me wiggling the inner stuff out


8. Once you get that inner stuff out the chain behind it becomes very loose and you can slip it off with your fingers.. Then after that you can remove the entire outer basket. I was careful not to rotate that thing there but idk if you can anyways. Try hard not to.


9. GO TO THE OTHER SIDE OF YOUR BIKE, you'll be removing the Clutch Lever with a 5MM ALLEN. NOTICE THE POSITION OF THIS, take a picture so you know were it was..


10 Remove your 5MM bolt which holds on the clutch Lever, Remove this ClIp with your needle nose pliers/ screwdriver and also the washer behind that. Remove ANY gunk off this rod as it will be pulled through the other side, you can even clean it if you want, mine was clean enough i just blew on it.

9. 690928943_image9.jpg.b4b04d70980ce252e05f13efcab33ccf.jpg

11. Prior to the removal off this rod on top, make sure you safely remove the Spring, I just pulled on my rod and it came off... also there is a WASHER at the end.. my washer stuck to the wall because of the oil but i thought i got lucky so please make sure it doesn't fall into the oil pan.


12. This is the rod removed, the next step is to remove the detent arm stuff by sliding it down the rod. You can see the clip you need to remove, there is a special tool but i used needle nose pliers.. don't be afraid to ask a friend for help.



13. Things coming apart, slide it down the rod.



14. You can see the old VS factory pro detent arm, Metal on metal VS a ceramic Bearing.



15. You can see the factory pro spring is a bit beefier(top).


16. Factory Pro Detent Arm is installed, notice the position of the spring. I held the spring in my hand when putting the rod back in place since i didn't want it to drop in the oil pan. I just used my small Philips head screw driver to put things into place. DO NOT PUT PRESSURE ON THE BEARING when putting it in place. Use that washer when putting it back together, check the first image if you need to know which parts go back together, put it back together the same way you took it apart.



used one of these with 10mm to put these bolts back with the springs. 


When putting the clutch cable back on it i noticed that when it was a 1/4 away from you which would line it up correctly.

Put things back together the same way you took them apart.

If you have any questions feel free to ask.

Edited by myfootisdumb
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4 hours ago, stickshift said:

Good write up.

Does the gear shift feel any different now?

Yeah, installing did what Factory Pro Said it was going todo. I mostly notice it when I'm WOT. It's nice to have smoother shifting.

Edited by myfootisdumb
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  • 4 weeks later...
On 11/13/2020 at 3:12 AM, stickshift said:

Good write up.

Does the gear shift feel any different now?

Shifting is even better now that its had time to "break in"(get oiled, spring stretched).. I'd highly recommend it. Shifting is noticeably improved over stock.

Edited by myfootisdumb
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2 hours ago, myfootisdumb said:

Shifting is even better now that its had time to "break in"(get oiled, spring stretched).. I'd highly recommend it. Shifting is noticeably improved over stock.

Good to know.

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  • 1 year later...

Since I've never ridden another MT-07, I can't really compare how the gear shifter feels between stock and the factory pro.  What I feel with the stock shifter is that it is a very vague, nonexistent gear change.  My feet can't feel a definitive mechanical "shnick" to the next gear.  Not saying its a negative, because it does shift very smooth, just doesn't have that feel to let you know you're in the next gear.

Perhaps, it's the huge amount of slop in the hinges and linkage of the stock rearsets.  I have ordered aftermarket rearsets with ball bearing linkage to test this.

On my old bike (Ninja 400), I upgraded the shifting bits (shift star, detent spring, shift shaft) etc.  It completely removed the slop, and provided that distinctive "snickt" feel when shifting.  

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  • mjh937 pinned this topic
  • 3 weeks later...

No fricken wonder why I could not get any feels in the shifting at the foot lever.  Yamaha went overkill with the rubber mounts.  It's everywhere!

Installed the Gilles rearsets.  What a difference!  Shifting now more pronounced, direct, and tactile.  Also has the ability to adjust toe-piece.  Now brake lever is at optimum position.

Ordered the Factory Pro shift kit to enhance shifting even more.  


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