Help Install rear axle

[Oneway_MT]

Hey guys I just finished painting my MT07 wheels in Gloss White and the tank fairings in Ducati Anniversary red I got my front wheel in with no issue at all ! 
 

but when it came to me doing my rear wheel at 1am it was a hassle I even scratched my painted rims they haven’t been painted for longer than 48 hours I’m so depressed now this part will not go in n it was abit hard to roll my rear wheel ( off the ground ) as soon as I forced it.. it rolls normal… maybe chains too tight? Not sure i refuse to put the bike down without this big circle ring thing installed proprly

 

any tips would be much and highly appreciated 

[TimmyTheHog]

from my untrained eyes, it looks like your pad lock stand is preventing your axle lock nut/ring/whever thats called to move forward...?

 

[mjh937]

I am not sure if this is your problem but when I installed my axle I found the tube inside the wheel that the axle goes through was getting out of alignment.  I found that making sure it was in place from the chain side and then pushing the axle through worked.  I had to realign it a couple of times as I installed the axle, but I was able to push the axle through by hand.  I used a long screwdriver to align the tube so I could get some leverage on it.  Good luck and let us know how it goes. 

[ElGonzales]

Use one of these cheap Chinese super turbo sport power air pump wedge things and you can comfortably move the wheel up/down until you see all things are in perfect alignment, without the need to hold the wheel up with tiny arms, shoes or other inappropriate things

 

[firstyammerha]

I dropped my bike off at the dealer the other day because issues had popped up which made the decision easier to do it: loud rear brake noise, 4000 mile service and seized rear axle nut. I talked to the service advisor about the axle nut thing and he said they had no knowledge of it pertaining to this model. This is a big dealership with multiple brands so I question that statement. I also mentioned the Suzuki SV axle swap and he said that I would probably have to sign a liability release since they were installing a non-Yamaha part on the bike. I could see that so no problem. Maybe I should have said R6 axle and nut but failed to think of it at the time. I'm going to print the posts regarding this Fuji nut thing and the substitute axles and drop them off in the next day or two. The cost of the brake issue, axle issue and 4000 mile check is expected to be $500 so it's credit card time. But not bad for a 6 year old bike with 4600 miles on it and no dealership encounters for five years and 4000 miles. I'm happy. 

[DewMan]

1 hour ago, firstyammerha said:

 I talked to the service advisor about the axle nut thing and he said they had no knowledge of it pertaining to this model.

The service advisor flat out lied to you or he hasn't been working there very long. It's a long standing issue with the FZ/MT07 as you're aware.

I'd be surprised if they'd replace the OEM part with one not specifically designed for that model just due to liability issues.

Best of  luck to you getting everything resolved. Let us know how it works out. 

[shinyribs]

The rear axle nut thing boggles my mind. You can't deny the several cases reported online. Mine has seen plenty of water, weather and mud and it's fine. I asked a fairly close riding buddy if they've seen much about it at the dealership he works at. He gave me a weird look...."rusty fasteners? On a Japanese bike? Never." 

 

I figure there must've been a batch of poorly plated nuts or something. 

[Lone Wolf]

7 hours ago, shinyribs said:

.... He gave me a weird look...."rusty fasteners? On a Japanese bike? Never." 

 

I figure there must've been a batch of poorly plated nuts or something. 

I don't think it's corrosion. The problem seems to be the nut digging in to the axle metal, something with the Fuji nut

Edited September 11, 2021 by Lone Wolf

[Pursuvant]

In DEC 2020 switched out to all new materials. Have a fresh stock axle, fresh stock fuji nut, axle drilled for R cotter pin to give me that warm fuzzy feeling, anti-seize and axle nut torque spec of 52 FT-LBS:

 

In the off season 2021.02, I pulled the R cotter pin and added the axle slider (below):

 

So the current setup that I have run all of 2021 with is the switch to a fresh stock axle and fresh stock fuji nut (just to start with all new parts), axle drilled for R cotter pin (but I no longer use the R cotter pin), anti-seize and torque spec of 52 FT-LBS, and the axle slider for the warm fuzzy feelz of nut retention.

Every time I loosen Fuji axle nut for any reason, I completely remove it, wipe axle threads and nut clean of anti-seize, inspect it's threads, and lube it up again with anti-seize and re-assemble to the reduced torque of 52 FT-LBS. Never experienced any backing off of the axle nut or any sense of the axle bearings lacking compression at the reduced torque.

Anti-seize and reduced torque is probably what's needed, but you should never do what I did, always follow the Yami specs because my changes cause foot fungus

 

[Oneway_MT]

I got them all done I will post a pic of how it looks now it was blue with the blue wheels ( don’t like the colour blue ) so I painted the tank fairing in a Anniversary Ducati Red and gloss white wheels! Still haven’t put the bike together because I am waiting for my stage 3 Tune to get back to me ( ECU tune stage3 + Podfilters instead of airbox )& my Race Brake Line conversions to remove abs completely  I’m aiming at 70+HP MT07. due to me being on my P1 license here in Australia! That comes next week and following is my IMPAKTECH stunt cages and EZ Pull Lever she is getting there but slowly excuse the mess just painted those heel protectors or whatever they’re called in gloss black plastidip well it was black but the Glossifier helped me out 

Edited September 16, 2021 by Oneway_MT

[Oneway_MT]

On 9/10/2021 at 3:16 AM, ElGonzales said:

Use one of these cheap Chinese super turbo sport power air pump wedge things and you can comfortably move the wheel up/down until you see all things are in perfect alignment, without the need to hold the wheel up with tiny arms, shoes or other inappropriate things

 

Bloody hell! Smart man I need to purchase one 

[Oneway_MT]

On 9/10/2021 at 2:10 AM, TimmyTheHog said:

from my untrained eyes, it looks like your pad lock stand is preventing your axle lock nut/ring/whever thats called to move forward...?

 

It was no where near it lol it just looked like it was due to the angle 

[firstyammerha]

I later talked with the service advisor further on this axle nut thing and the Yamaha nut is $25.00. A complete axle is $81.00 so I decided to just have the old nut tossed and replaced with a new oem nut. The advisor said the old nut came off with no problems but I don't really want to re-use it. I had loosened this nut a couple of times over the past year or two and it had become harder to loosen each time and finally the anti-loosen tangs bit in and wouldn't allow any movement of the nut using a 3/8's drive wrench. I didn't want to go up to a pull handle for leverage feeling that I might strip the axle threads as mentioned in other postings. I did spray WD40 heavily on the nut/axle junction and wiped it down as thoroughly as possible to no avail. In my opinion this Fuji nut is a bad design and hopefully the new one will be an "improved" version. BTW, nice wheels one way but would like to see a pic of the whole bike, red and all. 

[Triple Jim]

6 hours ago, firstyammerha said:

wouldn't allow any movement of the nut using a 3/8's drive wrench.

I wouldn't expect it to.  I use a 1/2" drive "breaker bar" to loosen big nuts like the axle nut.  You're not risking stripping threads just because you use a big wrench to loosen something.  It takes the same torque to loosen it with a small wrench as it does with a big wrench.  If the nut seizes to the axle, wrench size is unrelated to thread damage.

Edited October 9, 2021 by Triple Jim

[firstyammerha]

I got the bike back a couple of days ago along with the original nut and the locking tabs appear to be bent inward. The nut also bears serious scuffing marks around the circumference probably from the use of an air impact wrench. The axle service was $180 including the new nut. This is a little exorbitant to me so I penned a letter to Yamaha complaining about this nut and asking for restitution in part or whole for the charges. And I know what you're going to say...good luck with that! 

[Triple Jim]

Thanks for the update.  Do you  know what work was done and what parts were replaced?  In your post above you said that the nut came off with no problems, so I'm a little confused about what the shop did.